1 - 100 di 593 ascensioni.
Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | Arrampicatore | |||
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Mar 26 Dic 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Pine Line - con Casey Nguyen | 21m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Lun 25 Dic 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Base Area | |||||||
5.4 | ★★ The Footstool, Right - con Casey Nguyen | 36m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
A lot of steep walking for an ok route, nice view from the top chill day, worth it if doing other routes in the area, can also watch the pros projecting Dawn Wall from the ledge
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Lun 13 Nov 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ El Corazón - con Sam | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Just another route to add to the list of things that might make you a believer. I had the pleasure of jugging/climbing/shenaniganing behind Sam on his glorious 22 hour all free ascent of El Corazon (the El Coraziad).
Brittany, Victoria, and I jugged to Mammoth the night before to try and maximise our sleep then the next morning Adrian and Sam simuled to Mammoth and collected their pre-rigged belayers (Brittany and I (Victoria just came to hang out and talk shit bc she’s a legend)) and Sam and I started romping while Adrian and Brittany chilled on the ledge to give us some time to create a gap so Adrian could start his attempt without us being in the way. Pretty classic scenes on the big stone if you ask me. Highlights included: - Listening to multiple Lorde albums in full - Jugging the Nietzsche chimney and being rewarded with a lie down on Babsi’s portaledge - Taking a whole bunch of fucked up pendulums cleaning Sam’s gear to save time (“should i lower out or just take the fall?” “nah you’ll be fine there’s nothing to hit just take the whip”) - Sam firing every pitch like an absolute machine with only one fall on the Beak Flake - Jugging with two back packs - Down aiding the end of the roof pitch because Sam forgot to back clean his gear and i couldn’t lower out and also did not want to take the 15mpendulum whipper into the Tower - Having a chorus of 10 or so people from different routes cheer Sam on as he sent the roof traverse as the sun finished setting - Arriving at the tower and being handed a cup of tea that had been made by Miska and her partner who sent Golden Gate - Honestly just the whole thing. Supporting your friends to achieve their dreams is the fucking coolest thing ever. I won’t forget this day for a long while. Thanks Sam. |
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Mar 24 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13a |
★★★ Freerider
- con
Jesse
1
5.10c
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
2
5.11b
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
3
5.10c
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
4
5.11
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
10
5.11c
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
11
5.1
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
12
5.11d
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
15
5.10d
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
16
5.11d
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
21
5.11c
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
23
5.11a
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
24
5.10d
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
26
5.12b
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
29
5.11d
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
31
5.10d
arrampicata in lead da
Jesse
| 880m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Ground up over seven days and then we camped on top and hiked down on the eighth day. We pre-hauled to Hollow Flake Ledge, took two rest days, and then went up the route. Some nice Germans fixed the lines off Heart to above the Hollow Flake for us so we didn’t climb those pitches on our pre-hauling day and preserved our ground up as much as we could. We also didn’t do the Free Blast before our ground up attempt which was cool and definitely added to the experience. I top roped the Monster because I got tired of whipping from the move into it all the way back into the Ear in the dark at 5am and then gave the reigns to Jesse who fired it and then I followed. I top roped the Enduros because we didn’t do them first go and I also took the stance at the no hands ledge on the move off heart. These are my asterisks, do with them what you will.
I will probably write something more when my brain and body decide to work again. Best thing i’ve ever done! |
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Gio 19 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a |
★★★ Moby Dick, Center
1
145ft
2
45ft
| 58m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Mar 17 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
For the descent take care, it might not be easy to locate it especially in the dark.
After topping out you follow a trail and a bunch of cairns down. Then you continue walking down on some slabs The rap station is as you walk down facing the valley to the right hand side (Skier's-right) A chain on a ledge with usually some fixed ropes, We did 6 raps (the last 2 were short) Do NOT go left! Do NOT rap from the tat and old rings that are on a very dead looking tree. After the raps follow a long but obvious trail through the trees and back on the road |
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Dom 15 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Moby Dick, Center - con Andrew Banks | 58m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Wanted to get on this since I was last in the Valley in 2018 and it delivered. What a great pitch of climbing.
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5.9 Dura | ★★ La Cosita, Right - con Andrew Banks | 27m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Ven 13 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Moby Dick, Center | 58m | |||||
Ven 13 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10b |
★★★ East Buttress
2
5.10b
21.34
3
5.6
16.76
5
24.38
arrampicata in lead da
Cruz
6
5.8
47.24
8
5.9
19.81
10
5.5
30.48
12
5.7
45.72
13
5.6
21.34
| 440m | |||||
Ven 13 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Pine Line | 21m | ★ Buona | ||||
5.8 | ★ Little John, Left | 24m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Gio 12 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Sacherer Cracker - con Andrew Banks | 46m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Last route of the trip and got suitably smashed by the 6" offwidth at the top. Just couldn't keep it together. Fantastic climb and it feels like a bigger meaner brother to Moby Dick.
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Gio 12 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan West Face | |||||||
5.7 C2 VI | ★★★ Lurking Fear - con Andrew Banks | 610m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Bailed at the top of pitch 6. We had hiked in 2 loads and fixed the first pitch in the evening. The next day we jugged and I went to haul however sandbagged myself with the anchor set up and it took almost 2 hours to haul that first pitch! Lessons were learned. We managed to get to the top of the 4th pitch by the end of the first day through a mixture of aid and free climbing, all of which was spectacular. We set up the ledge. I had every intention of leading and fixing pitch 5 at night however after a brew and some food all motivation was lost haha. Pitches 5 & 6 went relatively quickly the next morning though we were still on the slow end of the scale. When I got to the anchor Andy said his back was quite sore. We had 3 options - push on and top out probably Saturday night; set up camp and climb as many pitches as we can before night then descend in the morning, or go down. When Andy mentioned the pain was such that he really had to concentrate not to make a mistake with the rope systems we decided to go down which definitely turned out to be the right call given how he felt the next day. When we descended we met a keen young Brit who was planning on soloing the route in a day. We brewed him a cup of tea and chatted while he waited for a party to descend who were climbing and fixing to pitch 3. We ran into him again the next day as he was hiking back to camp 4 and he had indeed soloed the route in under 18 hours, doing it in 7 monster pitches! And onsight to boot! An absolutely amazing effort. The climbing was definitely not the crux and we both learnt a lot in terms of systems and efficient hauling. Would love to come back and try and do this a bit lighter and quicker. Beta if you want to fix the evening before. Climb the first 3 pitches and haul straight to 3 via the rap route. That first pitch is the worse hauling on the route.
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Mar 10 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Dom 8 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac - con Jacob Kuchler | 550m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Dom 8 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Pine Line | 21m | |||||
Sab 7 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Sacherer Cracker | 46m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ Sacherer Cracker | 46m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Finger section early on was crux for me. Had a fall then was clean to top. Bit awkard getting into offwidth but then it's ok. Has shade early morning.
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Ven 6 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - con James Hurrey | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Gio 5 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress - con Fraser | 440m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Mar 3 Ott 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress - con William Wardlaw-Kelly | 440m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Great day out, after attempting the day before and seeing multiple parties including a party of four we postponed till the next day and had the cliff to ourselves. Simuled a few a chunks. Fantastic. Fixed line are up so the descent was easy peasy
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Ven 29 Set 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - con Jacob Kuchler | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Ven 29 Set 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan West Face | |||||||
5.7 C2 VI | ★★★ Lurking Fear | 610m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Three days on wall.
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Dom 24 Set 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan West Face | |||||||
5.7 C2 VI | ★★★ Lurking Fear - con Jacob Kuchler | 610m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Dom 17 Set 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.11a | ★ Seedy Leads | 46m, 3 | |||||
Really fun movement, but the crack below the roof is pretty dirty and chossy. Ran out of small gear, bring as much as you can
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5.10a | ★★★ Moby Dick, Center | 58m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
One of my favourite routes ever. Had to bail on the sat as got too dark to see, then came back and sent it
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Sab 16 Set 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ La Cosita, Right | 27m | |||||
Mega fun route
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Gio 14 Set 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Moby Dick, Center | 58m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
5.9 Dura | ★★ La Cosita, Right | 27m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
5.10d | ★★★ The Mark of Art | 55m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ Sacherer Cracker | 46m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Lun 4 Set 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - con Simon | 1000m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
4 days and 3 nights in the wall (el cap tower ->great, camp 4 ->crap, camp 6 -> super slippery) with prehauling to sickle ledge.
Amazing and exhausting experience!
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Sab 17 Giu 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Base Area | |||||||
5.9 | Simulkrime | ||||||
just followed what looked interesting. slightly crumbly but good. I can see myself coming here for slab mileage when solo as there's so many variants, and also trying to move quickly will be a challenge
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Mar 6 Giu 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
Unfortunately didnt get a chance to get further than 6 pitches up the shnoz this season. Anthony and I did a 'dolt run' to practice speed climbing. I went with antons 'intermediate clove hitch' method of breaking up the death loop as opposed to the self belay because im not stoked about lead falling onto a device im wearing. The only sketchy moment was forgetting to undo one of the cloves and pulling a nut out from above. It was my only piece and i couldnt place above so i had to shimmy down and replace the nut. After that i just waited for tony to get up and put me on belay. Ultimately more research on this as well as the route itself would be needed for the holy 'niad'. A 3 or 4 day ascent might be a prerequisite.. Or 2 days with hammocks and only bars and drinking peoples piss off the wall to avoid hauling? Still stoked to get up on the 'best rock climb in the world' and look down the dawn wall with howling wind to juice up the exposure even more.
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Dom 4 Giu 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | |||||
First lap I had one fall on the sixth pitch then onsighted the rest. Sent second time round. Felt flowy. Really enjoyed this
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5.13a VI | ★★★ Freerider - con shane | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
The Freeing ended after the freeblast then it turned into Aidrider !
Absolutely mega adventure and I feel like I learnt alot along the way.
Day 1, stuck behind an aid parties initially. But just climbed around them and their gear. Sent all of the free blast. Got the rope stuck twice on the half dollar. Then fixed to the hollow flake and slept on heart ledges. "The move" felt absolutely mingin. Day 2, hauling these pitches was exhausting. Then straight into the hollow flake. & it was just as terrifying as I thought it would be. Need Todo more othwidth climbing bumping two tipped number sixs leaving one and then another before questing 15m above them without any gear felt pretty out there. Then Shane threaded the anchor and started the downclimb taking two falls. Then when he climbed up further I threw the rope down for him to retie back in. Then he untied and I pulled the other line. And the sound I won't forget anytime soon. Metal rattling into the abyss. Shane "was that the six ?* ... " That was both of the sixs" Then we sat on the ledge contemplating if we could climb the rest of the route without any number sixs. Fixed the next two pitchs and stayed on the hollow flake Ledge that night. Day 3, onwards and upwards. Anxious about our position but psyched to be moving. The ear was something to experience. Sadly or happily we skipped the monster and aided the salathe. Made it to the alcove for lunch then climbed to the Spire and fixed two pitches above. Day 4, I think I slept a Total of one hour. Not sure why I decided to sleep on the slopping ledge ahaha. Boulder for breakfast. Such cool movement on this thing ! The crimp before the Gaston thumb move felt pretty spoogy. Gave the moves a few goes but didn't spend too long on it. Sewer pitch was filthy. Shane got the snorkel on for that. Sport lose flake pitch was pretty nerving but pretty sweet climbing. Boom enduro corner. Alot more sporty than it looks weird kneebar stuff and sick laybacking, final pitch of the day and the most exposed pitch of the climb. Wild traversing over the void. Day 5. Pretty dismal free climbing effort on this day ahaha. Those sliver jugs were just too good Frankly I felt pretty destroyed. & Was just happy to be on the summit !! |
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Gio 1 Giu 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
Climbed free up to 11a, aid the rest. We bailed at pitch 9 because of a hand injury.
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Gio 1 Giu 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.7 A3 VI | ★★★ Mescalito | 820m | |||||
Lun 29 Mag 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - con Henry Burt | 1000m | |||||
When Henry and I first arrived in Yosemite, my stoke to climb much of anything was pretty low. Our campsite in El Portal was 40 minutes out of the park and offered all the social life that retirees in rental RVs could dream of. Oppressive heat baked every wall, and day by day the Valley seemed more like a concentration camp for hoardes of ill-informed tourists than a climbing destination.
After being cited by park rangers on our third day of climbing I was ready to throw in the towel, and had Henry not been on this trip I probably would have. Nonetheless, the pile of aid gear we had both amassed beckoned to be used, and with some inspiration from Nick and Dave (and assurance there’s no rangers hiding in the stovelegs) we set off. I should note that both Henry and I wanted to climb pure alpine style, that is without fixing and hauling to Sickle. In hindsight our early arrival at El Cap Tower meant we could have done this, but on Nick’s advice we compromised by hauling every pitch (including Pine Line and first four) but fixing lines from Sickle and sleeping on the ground. Personally I think this is a big concession in style, but it possibly avoided an epic and got us ahead of the crowds, so I'm happy we did it. Day 1: Jug to Sickle. Henry led every pitch to arrive on El Cap Tower at 5:20pm. Day 2: Mini epic on the Texas flake. Originally Henry was to take the first block, but we swapped for me to lead this pitch. Didn’t die. Henry flashed the King Swing and I recovered from a pretty bad bonk to lead from Grey Bands to Camp 5. The Great Roof was seeping with slimy algae, which made backcleaning the entire thing (so that Henry could lower out) a pretty spicy experience. Day 3: Bit of a slow start while 4 all-star NIAD teams passed us. Triple-crowners Nick and Danford, Connor Herson, Tom Herbert, YOSAR rangers… we felt like the only gumbies on the wall! I led the wild bolt ladder clipping 3 bolts in the top 30 meters and we followed the final NIAD team down to the valley floor. Overall a pretty cool end to a pretty cool trip, and possibly my last log here. I've started to realise I'm not quite eloquent enough to express how I feel on bigger objectives in writing, and most often I simply don't want to. Back in Sydney in a bit |
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Dom 21 Mag 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
El capihoofa!! Finally on the big stone.. The first couple hundred metres but still felt like a 4 year old in a candy shop up in the sea of rock. Bringing sunnies up there would be good beta. That white rock reflects light like snow. Insecure and exciting low angle climbing but never full cheesegrater potential (for me cos shane led the sketchy 5th pitch). An el cap adventure wouldnt have been complete without some french free.. which was the only reason i grabbed the draws instead of sending. We lay on the mammoth ledge top out at 1pm staring up at salathe wall with slack jaws for 20 min before beginning the descent. Getting to rap fixed lines down to the ground for a 5 minute descent to the cars is also a luxury i will miss.
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Ven 19 Mag 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - con Dave Burt | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Mar 16 Mag 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
Flashed NIAD 9 hours. First time climbing The Captain
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Gio 11 Mag 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
Dolt run. Averaged 50 mins per pitch until stovelegs traffic slowed us. Learned how to aid in a tree the day before.
Goal was to keep up with 3 French wizards who overtook us on the footstool (both their seconds freeing everything to Dolt). Mission was kinda accomplished. |
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Mar 9 Mag 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Pine Line | 21m | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ Moby Dick, Center | 58m | |||||
Lun 10 Apr 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Pine Line - con nicole | 21m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Sab 8 Apr 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Pine Stein | 11m, 3 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Slipped by saved it
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Sab 8 Apr 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.10d ~5.10d |
★★★ The Nose
- con
Mitch Lindbeck
| 40m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
1 and a half pitches.
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Lun 20 Feb 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - con Camilla Satte | 1000m | |||||
Lun 6 Feb 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 |
★★★ The Nose
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
| 1000m | |||||
Gio 1 Dic 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | |||||
Dom 20 Nov 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI |
★★★ The Nose
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
| 1000m | |||||
Mar 15 Nov 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.8 C2 VI |
★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose)
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
| 880m | |||||
Sab 12 Nov 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI |
★★★ The Nose
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
| 1000m | |||||
Dom 23 Ott 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Moby Dick, Center | 58m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
5.10c | ★★★ Salathé Base | 69m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Gio 20 Ott 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI |
★★★ The Nose
1
2
3
4
5
| 1000m | |||||
5.10b C2 | ★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose) | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Lun 10 Ott 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - con Sebastian fuller, Sebastian Fuller | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Sab 24 Set 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Pine Line | 21m | |||||
Sab 2 Lug 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Base Area | |||||||
5.4 | ★★ The Footstool, Right | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||||
Its classic if you make it classic, and besides, now you can say 'I've climbed El Cap!" According to tradition, I took enough gear to climb El Cap, and decided to place as many different pieces as possible: various cams from #0.1 to #5 (including Metolius, WC and BD), a tricam, an offset cam, an offset nut, a regular nut, a small hex and a sling. Sad to say I couldn't find a spot for the big bro. The summit was enjoyed with Jared the soft toy squirrel and a hot cuppa
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Ven 17 Giu 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.6 C4 5.9 A3+ VI | ★★★ The Shield - con Grigri/SP | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Muir to the shield, rope solo aid faff sloth style. Clean (definately not hammerless). Wild.
Few days fixing to P6, then waited around for some replacement approachies that never arrived, 14 days on-wall, several days to get everything back down. Rack brought for Muir->Shield (clean) June 2022 Hooks: -2*talons (only used 1) -1*cliffhanger (only used 1) -2*Narrow cam hooks (only used 1) -1*micro, wide (not used) Pitons: -15 #3 peckers or equiv staight tomahawks (wouldn't have minded having 20, MVPs on the headwall) -2* #1 peckers -2 * #2 peckers -2 random size sawed angles (old booty, size unknown), would have been good to have a full set to use skeleton key style. Useful but probably not essential, only used twice, more #3 beaks likely more useful -Wall hammer -Mini hammer for nut cleaning on clean pitches -Funkness device (used for cleaning a few unnesessary fixed beaks) -Few random heads -No LAs -Few heads - brought but never used. Nuts: -1 set standard micro nuts (barely used) -2-3 sets offset brass nuts (clutch) -1 set peanuts (completely unused - would not bring) -About 1kg of offset alloy nuts - very helpful esp gold/blue Cams: -2*set of offset X4s (clutch, despite copping a lot of slack for the harder alloy found them pretty bomber in weird grooves within the SA scars) -1*Aliens black-green (didn't use much) -Triple totems set from black - grey (0.4 equiv), and mix totems/C4s triples to #3, double #4, double #5 (big gear most useful for the muir section, probably a bit over the top) Misc: -3-4 large Wire rivet hangers (never used) -> some of the micro/piano wire size wire rivet hangers may have been useful instead of 3mm nylon -Few meters of 3mm nylon cord (useful for a few of the old RURPs -Few meters of ?11/16th webbing for fixed gear -Few leaver biners (bootied a few, used a few) -Sharp knife for cleaning off some tat, honestly in some spots I wish I had a narrow head locking pliers for getting some mank tat off. -Didn't bring an adjustable spanner - many, many of the quicklinks and hangers were loooose (At least on the muir pitches). Crux aid pitches went clean as previous party placed a mashie at the bottom of the groove, without which would have been quite a challenge. Cleaned a bunch of tat (but theres still a lot that really needs the chop), and a few beaks from the headwall pitches that were taking up nice beak scars that should go fine hand placed. |
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Mer 15 Giu 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Moby Dick, Center - con Ryan chase | 58m | |||||
Wow what a climb. Had to run it out for the last 7m as i used up all my gear earlier. Luckily by that time, the climb had taught me how to fist jam and I was feeling super comfy.
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Giu 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ Salathé Wall | 880m | |||||
Gio 5 Mag 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10 A4 VI | ★★★ The Real Nose - con Cyril Lavier | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
Nous avons grimpé en artif jusqu'à Dolt Tower. Sacs trop lourds et pas entrainés. Abandon cause physique mdr
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Lun 14 Mar 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - con chase bailey | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
19h05
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Lun 1 Nov 2021 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13b |
★★★ The Nose
- con
Rob Zipplies
1
5.13b
1028m
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
| 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Bailed from Sickle Ledge after Rob injured his ankle. Unfinished business. Planning to go back for this one.
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Dom 8 Nov 2020 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10 A4 | ★★★ The Real Nose - con Remo | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||||
5.10 A4 | ★★★ The Real Nose - con Remo | ★★★ Mega Classica | |||||
Ven 30 Ott 2020 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Little John, Left | 24m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Mer 20 Nov 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - con Jacopo Larcher | 1000m | |||||
Mer 30 Ott 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Little John, Right | 79m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Mar 29 Ott 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.8 C2 | ★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose) - con davedave, Stubbsy | 880m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
My first route up the big stone! 4 days up wall plus fix and haul. I had heaps of fun getting super scare with good mates defiantly so keen for other routes on the wall!.
Cruxes of the route were the 5.7 no gear pitch! and just managing the logistics with the bags.
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Sab 26 Ott 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress - con woodhead | 440m | |||||
Sab 19 Ott 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Schultz's Ridge East Side | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Moratorium - con Ben | 120m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Sab 19 Ott 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress - con Ben | 440m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Lun 7 Ott 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
I 5.13a VI | ★★★ Freerider - con running support for al iAD - 23hs 15mins approx | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Support ascent - FF'd by Al
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Mer 2 Ott 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - con Andrew Godwin | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Realisation of a long term dream to climb El Cap. This was our second attempt after the aborted effort a week earlier. Cheated a little bit by jugging fixed lines to Sickle, thereby skipping the first four pitches that we had already climbed the first time. Hauled to Sickle on a warm day, then waited for the cold weather to blast off. I was questioning our strategy while jugging the fixed lines in the cold rain at 2 am, but it blew over and we had great sunny, cool conditions for the next four days. Lost about four hours on the traverse into the stove legs when I got the lead rope stuck in a lower out sling. Had to wait for a couple of slow Canadians behind us to catch up and free it. Other than that it was smooth sailing to the top. Only saw two other parties on the route. A couple of fast Swiss guys passed us at camp IV, and Thomas and Christoph the crazy Germans climbed behind us from the great roof to camp VI, then went in front the next day. The bivy on top was magic, made even better by the deep sense of satisfaction that came from finally achieving a multi-year goal.
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Mar 1 Ott 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10b |
★★★ East Buttress
- con
griff
1
5.9
160ft
2
5.10b
70ft
3
5.6
55ft
4
5.6
125ft
5
80ft
6
5.8
155ft
7
5.8
130ft
8
5.9
65ft
9
5.9
130ft
10
5.5
100ft
11
5.8
160ft
12
5.7
150ft
13
5.6
70ft
| 440m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Ven 27 Set 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 | ★★★ The Nose - con Jemma Herbert | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Mar 24 Set 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | |||||
dry jug run 3hrs.
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Lun 23 Set 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Moby Dick, Center | 58m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
had to rest and get the hammer out to get an offset brassie out of the top flakes.
SO bloody good. Can't think of a better pitch this year. Four stars. With steph and Jason |
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Dom 22 Set 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Pine Line - con Jemma Herbert | 21m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Dom 22 Set 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.8 C2 5.8 C2 VI | ★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose) - con rogue shitter, snapgate rogueshitter | 880m | Media | ||||
Pitch numbers per Sloan Topo 2019
Loose seige tactics - freeblast (blocks per SG/RS)
Separate prehaul and fix day up lines to mammoth (fixed lines ok..ish)
P11 - RS P12 - DD P13 - DD P14 - SG Bivy Gray Ledges (good) P15 - SG P16, 17 - DD (shortfix) P18 - SG (no pro - tension into ~5.6 climbing to crossroads.) P19 - SG Bivy Camp IV (v. average, recommend crossroads bivy+fix) some traffic delays P20 - RS P21, P22, P23 DD (shortfix) Bivy Camp V (ledge + hammock) P24 - fixed by SG P 25, 26 pitched DD (traffic) P27, P28, P29-30 - RS (Skipped 1.5" piece) Topout ~3-4pm with same day descent east ledges (fourth rap rope moderate coreshot) |
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Sab 21 Set 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - con Andrew Godwin | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
First attempt at the Nose. After climbing and hauling to sickle we waited a day before blasting off. Ended up behind a couple of other parties which slowed things down a lot. Bivied on Dolt first night. Ran into a traffic jam on top of the Boot Flake and had to wait ages, then struggled with the King Swing. Tried maybe 10 times before taking a bad swing back into the wall and injuring my hip and ankle. The party in front of us threw me a line so I could pull on to Eagle ledge. Spent a very uncomfortable night there. Climbed two more pitches the next day, but gave up due to pain in my hip. Rapped to Dolt that afternoon, spent the night, then rapped to the ground the next day.
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Ven 13 Set 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C1 | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) - con Stubbsy | 400m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Total classic.
We climbed it in 12 hrs at 5.9 c1
lots of cool features stubbsy nailed the crux pitch only cheese grating a few times hahaha.
the half dollar is terrible to aid! Do it on a cool day as you get roasted in the sun! |
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Dom 11 Ago 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Base Area | |||||||
5.4 | ★★ The Footstool, Right | ★★★ Classica | |||||
Ven 21 Giu 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan West Face | |||||||
5.7 C2 5.7 C2 VI | ★★★ Lurking Fear | 610m | Media | ||||
2 p, fix plus 2d1n with bivy on top. Should have listened when people say just get good and do it in a day. More grade 5.5 then VI. Great top out bivy.
Compared to the usual El Cap intro routes (Zodiac, The Nose, The Triple, Freerider/salathe) this is certainly the least classic, shorter, uglier, easier cousin. |
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Mar 11 Giu 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - con Brendo | 1000m | |||||
3d 2 nights on wall, night at top plus prefix and hauled to sickle.
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Dom 2 Giu 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | |||||
Did first pitch 10c
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Giu 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13c 5.13c/d | PreMuir - con Jacopo Larcher | ||||||
Mar 28 Mag 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.8 C2 5.8 C2 VI | ★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose) | 880m | |||||
Mer 22 Mag 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ The Mark of Art | 55m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Gio 16 Mag 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | |||||
Gio 2 Mag 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Loggerhead Buttress | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Loggerhead Ledge Route | 76m | |||||
Dom 28 Apr 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Loggerhead Buttress | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Loggerhead Ledge Route - con andrew serack | 76m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Beautiful climb! Squeeze chimney, stemming, dirty, and an insane view from the ledge. Brilliant.
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Gio 21 Mar 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress | 440m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Mar 8 Gen 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.12b C4 5.9 C4 VI | ★★★ Muir Wall (All Clean) - con Danny | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
First real big wall. Took 5 days! Combination of free an aid. Danny was the aid hero!
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Mar 27 Nov 2018 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.7 C3 5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac | 550m |
1 - 100 di 593 ascensioni.