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Aguja Guillaumet

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Los Glaciares Parque Nacional

You must secure a climbing permit at the National Park Visitor Centre, though the permit is free. Crossing some areas of private land such as Valle Rio Electrico attracts a modest access fee.

Ethic inherited from Los Glaciares Parque Nacional

This is an alpine wilderness and rescues are problematic - climb accordingly.

As with most alpine climbing, bolts are to be used sparingly and as a last resort (historical divergences such as The Compressor Route notwithstanding).

When reading topos and route descriptions, it pays to remember that the established ethic is to give the height of new routes as only that of new terrain covered. Therefore, in regard to variants and linkups, seek further information on the "combined length" of the entire route.

Remember, this is a World Heritage area. Practice LNT principles, espeically in regard to travelling and camping on durable surfaces and waste management.

Routes

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Grade Route

This route follows the NW Ridge and is a great choice for introduction to climbing in the area. Under normal conditions, boots, crampons and ice ax are needed to climb the final 70m to the summit.

This ridge can climbed instead of the scree/snow slopes to access the start of the Comesaña-Fonrouge.

A hard, varied route with all nature of cracks.

A mixed climb where the crux is often the overhanging serac at the bergshrund.

A classic alpine route that is one of the easiest to any of the granite summits in the massif. Meets with the Comesaña-Fonrouge near the summit block.

A classic route with varied climbing on excellent rock. Meets up with the Comesaña-Fonrouge near the summit block.

Initially climbed as 7b A0.

FA: Facu Saubidet, Jere Castana & Santi Scavolini, 10 Jan 2023

FFA: Sean Villanueva & Pete Whittaker, Feb 2023

FA: Francesco Ratti, Alessandro Baù & Claudio Migliorini, 31 Jan 2023

Information needed

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Rolando Garibotti

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9789616027199

This is the definitive mountaineering guidebook to the Chalten Massif Mountains in southern Patagonia in Argentina, which includes the Fitz Roy, Torre, Piergiorgio, Marconi and Adela Mountain groups.

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Wed 26 Apr
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