Ascents as trad by David Gibbs having Distinct route

Stiff for its grade, and getting polished.

Some thin moves on pebbles.

Great climbing, mostly at the 5.7 or below grade, with a couple 5.8 moves on pitch 4, and a short (maybe 15 ft) 5.9 section at the end of the final pitch.

Climbed the first 4 pitches, leading 1 and 2, following 3 and 4.

Gets a bit tricky near the top, but there are some fun pockets to play with.

Generally good protection, a lot of variety in the problems, and some outstanding views. I led pitch 1 (5.7 variant), which goes well with good protection. I sent Phil up pitch 2 & 3 to link them. He got the traverse to belay 2, and the crack up to the roof fine, but backed down from the traverse under the roof. I took over, finished the traverse to a belay on a platform on the arete. Pitch 4 goes hard right off the platform, on small nuts, but, the hard bit is fairly short.

The 5.6 grad on this was a mite mad -- definitely harder and more committing than that. Still a tough and heady lead -- but a couple bolts in the dihedral where I sling the tree (twice) would be a good improvement.

Definitely easier than Rupert or Lavender.

Lead all the pitches -- lots of fun climbing.

Was climbing Peggy, but climbed this in sections with re-directs and lowers-in to figure out how it went, and how hard. I think, with a couple re-directs, this could be a fun top-rope off the Peggy anchors. Leading it... hm... after a couple more rehearsals, I think.

Got the red point on my 2nd lead attempt. No particular move is, really, harder than 5.7 or so, but it is continuously sustained at that level for most of the climb, and far harder if you're not comfortable with crack techniques.

It looks like a crack climb, but much of the meat of the climb is really face climbing around the crack which is too small for real jams, and the crack being used for gear. And, the gear is all sizes -- I placed pieces from a BD C3 #0 through a BD wired hex #10 (red) placed sideways.

Some quite burly moves on the lay-back around the edge of the scale, but everything was there, and generally what needed to be done was obvious. Fun, but obvious. Still, a hard lead for a 5.8.

Climbing is fine, but gear is a bit tricky.

Followed clean -- but was exhausted (shaking) at end of P1, so had to call off trying pitch 2. Maybe food? Maybe spending an hour shivering at the belay? Not sure why.

Not bad going until the crux section near the top where the crack leans a bit more to the left, and the feet on the wall below become very thin.

Followed Flo for the first two pitches, and lead the 2nd two pitches.

Pitch 1 and 4 are excellent climbing. Pitch 2 is a nasty lead due to the exposed run-out. Pitch 3 climbs ok, but is a bit dirty and vegetated, with a bit of loose rock.

Generally, though, a climb well worth doing.

Fell off right at the top -- which is far better than I expected this to go.

This is an old-school Gatineau "5.8". Probably more like 5.10.

Fun climbing on top rope.

Fun climbing on top rope.

Start is height-dependent; but can traverse in from the right as an alternate start if short.

The hardest 5.8 I've yet encountered at Squamish -- though still not as hard as an Adirondacks 5.7. Excellent climbing, and it takes good gear, too.

Classic!

While the hardest bits are well-protected, many other sections are, not surprisingly, run-out.

I'd be surprised if it wasn't the most popular route on The Chief.

First ever climb at JTree, thought I was getting on a 5.4, found this to be a very stiff 5.4. Took one rest on gear, otherwise good.

Climb takes decent gear, though the boulder problem to the first ledge was a bit tricky with a rack on.

Wonderful climbing, with good gear and reasonable rests to place it. Classic!

Followed pitch 1, lead 2 & 3. I actually was intending to link 2 & 3 -- but I never found the anchor and the end of pitch 2, and after the fourth bolt on pitch 2, ran it out to the anchors at the end of pitch 3. Probably more than 30m run-out by the time I, very carefully, finished the pitch. Talking with others who had climbed it the day before, they ended up doing the same thing.

Lots of good, varied, climbing on this.

This is a fun top-rope, but a really awful lead -- two bolts, and very little very small gear that might (or might not) catch a fall. I recommend against leading it.

Crux is at the start, after that generally easy going.

Lead pitches 1 and 3. 1 is sustained at 5.7. Pitch 3 is the least interesting of the three, though the 5.7 crux is fun. Pitch 3 is getting quite polished -- it is shared by several climbs, including the ultra-popular Bear's Reach.

Lead P1 and about 1/2 of P2 -- up to just below the twin cracks. Oops.

Also, got the start wrong, so fought with a couple off-width bits before backing off, finding the right start, and actually having fun with it.

An excellent climb, good gear and good movement through-out. The only pity is that the section of perfect vertical hand-crack on P2 isn't longer than it is.

Lead pitches 1 & 2 - linking them. Followed pitch 3.

Partner found a variant of the 5.9 variant start -- going up a thin crack/seam about 2m right of it for about 2/3 of the first pitch. I lead pitch 2 (5.6) and half of pitch 3 (5.7).

Takes great gear.

Lead P1, followed P2. Didn't bother with P3 -- didn't know it even existed.

Great climb.

Tricky slab to the flake, then burly lay-back climbing from there.

I remembered how to do the crux from previous try, so it went pretty well. A good climb.

A nice bolted bit, up into a wonderful crack. Runs long, but climbing less interesting for last 15m or so.

A nice 5.8 warm-up. Gear was good. All nuts and tri-cams.

A very enjoyable route with generally good protection.

The MdA book only gives it three stars for protection, from climbing it, I would say this is more because of a lack of stance for placing gear, rather than a lack of protection opportunities.

Ok gear, but often placed from poor stance.

Lovely, well-protected crack; wide at times -- but I found I could usually get a good jam deeper in the crack where it was narrower.

If the start weren't wet, this would be a lovely climb. Gear looks a bit tricky, though.

Good climbing, but really hard for5.8, and looks like the gear would be tricky to place, too.

Just an absolutely excellent climb. Great gear throughout, many interesting problems, but, assuming you have the climbing vocabulary, never harder than 5.8.

Mostly on Simon's gear, though I did add one piece. Gear was good, and good stance for placing it, so could easily have place it myself.

Did Open Book, then lowered down to just do the variant finish.

Went clean unexpectedly easily on TR, despite the initial layback section being a bit wet. I keep thinking about leading it, then thinking again.

A good climb with some very interesting moves. Both near the start, and along the upper finger crack. Gear looked good, and I think I should be able to lead this one.

I took several falls on this one. I found it harder than "Johnny Rock", but buddy said it was easier. We agreed that "Johnny Rock" was more technical, but this one more physical (strength based).