Ascents in Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island by Sergey Komarov

Watch the rock quality at the top

Onsight attempt

Confused feet when it should have been done already

First v4!

It didn't look possible at first, but it went after a working the last moves and a couple attempts.

The first few moves on slopers looked very hard but turned out to be fine. The middle is easy, just a matter of moving fast to conserve energy for the end. The moves onto the right arete were iffy, but I found feet that made it work.

This was fun! The sit start was definitely the hardest part and took a bit of experimenting.

Barely worth putting in a guide.

I'm biased against eliminates, so wasn't too impressed with this one.

V0 seemed a quite sandbagged at the top

Got to the wide section and placed a #3 before panicking, realising my shoe was undone, and bailing onto the bolts. Was probably past the crux at this point...

Somehow missed the anchor and ran it out to the top of 'Firestarter'.

Hard start for a 14! I'd put what we did around 18, so we must have been off route somehow.

Not in a good headspace when I did this. Maybe the sun and approach?

Tried to do the crux of CJD Arete but had to take. This was silly for at least two reasons: I've flashed CJD Arete and repeated it cleanly multiple times, and I was supposed to go to the wide Diablo crack. Ended up going into the wide crack from the jugs below the second bolt. The offwidth crack was fun and super secure. Placed #2 Camalot and #7 Rockcentric where it narrows.

Somehow missed the second last bolt???

Such a good route!

Put in an absurd amount of protection (8 pieces?) just to practice.

Possibly my smoothest accent yet! Only felt around for the jug briefly.

Cleanest accent yet. Went straight through the crux without faffing.

Attempted 'Green Eggs and Ham' but failed to find the start. We only climbed 10 meters that were much harder than the promised 15.

Took first trad fall: 3m onto a medium offset nut when I pulled a hand hold off the wall. Was backed up by a C4 #2 just below.

Retreated and attempted 'Dihedral Wall'.

First pitch clean.

Bailed on second pitch - leader wasn't confident going up the steep section after the traverse.