Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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6b | ★★ Tufa Moss - with Daniel | 12m | Malta | ★ Good | Mon 19th Sep 2016 | |||
Slightly difficult start, but then relatively easy to the anchor.
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6b | ★ Rock DJ - with Daniel | 12m, 4 | Gozo | ★ Good | Wed 21st Sep 2016 | |||
Good, but short line at the edge of the leaning boulder.
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6b | ★★ Regatta de Blanc - with Daniel | 15m | Malta | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Sep 2016 | |||
Quite nice, but unspectacular.
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6b | ★ Cold Burn - with Daniel | 12m | Malta | ★ Good | Sat 24th Sep 2016 | |||
Short climb with a nice move towards the left onto a good, but thin flake.
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6b | ★★ Communication Breakdown / Excalibur - with Daniel | 15m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Sep 2016 | |||
Wax-like rock, brilliant structures.
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7 7- | ★★ Vertigo - with Daniel | 12m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 17th May 2017 | |||
Juggy route with a difficult passage near the end.
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7 7- | ★ OBI at orbi - with Daniel | 8m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Mon 29th Jun 2015 | |||
7 | ★★★ Südwestkante - with Jenni | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Fri 2nd Sep 2022 | |||
Marvellous. I had already forgotten how tricky the two crux sections were, so almost an onsight. The original start is great, solid rock from start to finish.
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7 | ★★ Dirkerlü - with KP | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th May 2020 | |||
#warmup to get the draws up for KP. Very good route through a steep dihedral.
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7 | ★ Petite Fleur - with mantra | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 7th Apr 2019 | |||
This wall has quite unique pockets, which shows nicely in this route. The last bulge before the ledge felt hard for the grade. Didn't see a way to do it really straight up and struggled to fix my movements to go slightly right.
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7 | ★★ Lady Domina - with Daniel | 13m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Jul 2014 | |||
7 | ★★ Frauen über 30 - with Daniel | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Sep 2015 | |||
7 | ★★★ Devil's Crack - with Matzka | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 12th Oct 2022 | |||
Felt really relaxed in it today.
#repeat #lastrouteoftheday
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7 | Bodyguard - with Daniel | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 13th Aug 2016 | |||
Tricky boulder at the second bolt.
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7 | ★★ Rosthakenweg - with Matthias Felix | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 13th Aug 2023 | |||
7 | ★★ Mauerläufer - with Bovist | 12m, 4 | Steinwald | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th May 2017 | |||
Brilliant vertical climbing on broad crimps in the lower part, then typical Steinwald wool sacks to the top.
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7 | FA ★ Ritzenfeger - with Markus | 13m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 21st Nov 2020 | |||
FFA. Natural crack line with a hard start, then much easier to the top. Start below and left of the start of R1 through the obvious crack, cross R1 at the arête, then up along another crack to the anchor.
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6b | Via Del Biscotto - with Bovist | 24m | Nago | ★ Good | Fri 7th Oct 2022 | |||
Just tried this because I failed here years ago, and now I know why. The route in itself is beautiful, but even for 6b, it's terribly hard. The crux section, quite high up, is a tough, almost bouldery wall climbing problem which also relies a bit on friction -- on totally greased up holds. Luckily, the sun was already setting and I got through the lower part without sweating a lot, so I could quickly breeze through that part. Didn't lose my cool when I suddenly stood there in the slab, not having anything sensible to hold on to, either, so I could ignore the urge to clip the bolt in front of my eyes and instead climb on for another two moves to the safety of a jug. Hard!
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7 | ★ Harry-und-Bobby-Weg | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | |||
7 9 | ★ Flower Hour - with Harald | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 27th Dec 2022 | ||||
Having checked out the moves, the route was reduced to a short, but fun boulder problem.
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7 8 | ★ Seitensprung - with Daniel | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 3rd Oct 2015 | |||
7 | ★★ Für Konny (Für Conny) - with Daniel | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Jul 2016 | |||
7 | ★★ Silberner Oskar - with matzka | 23m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | |||
7 | ★★ Erste Affäre - with Daniel | 14m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 30th Mar 2017 | ||||
Hard if you cannot pull off the reachy move into the bulge.
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7 | ★★ Babsi im Lummerland - with Daniel | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th May 2016 | |||
7 ~7+ | ★ Schweinfurter Weg - with Merlin | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 28th Feb 2024 | |||
Tough boulder problem. Didn't find the invisible crimp first go, but even then it felt hard. Maybe there's yet another trick. The book was too wet to write an entry. I'll have to bring one of the stone books next time.
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7 | ★ Feiner Riss - with David X | 12m | Reinhäuser Wald | ★ Good | Tue 15th Aug 2017 | |||
Hard start following a crack to a hold formed like the female primary sex organ, followed by good, but way easier climbing up a few ledges.
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7 | Little arithmetics - with Bovist | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 9th Mar 2019 | |||
7 | ★★ Schuddgogerer - with Daniel | 33m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 29th Apr 2017 | |||
A bit chossy all over, but nevertheless worth it. Long journey with lots of different climbing styles. Worked out nicely on second try.
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6b | ★ L'Homme a l'Envers (L'homme à l'envers) - with Daniel | 12m, 6 | Geyikbayırı | ★ Good | Sat 26th Mar 2016 | |||
6b | ★ L'AB prévaut - with Daniel | 12m, 4 | Vosges du Nord | ★ Good | Thu 11th Sep 2014 | |||
7 | Schneckenhaus direkt | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 22nd Apr 2024 | ||||
7 | ★ Direkte Talseite - with mantra | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 8th Jul 2023 | |||
Athletic, strenuous overhang. The holds are a little brittle, clipping is also not too easy. The reward is the upper wall, which I already knew.
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7 8- | ★ Bilbo Baggins - with Uwe | 15m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 11th Jan 2018 | |||
Combined the start of "Goldenes Dach" with the overhang of "Bilbo Baggins". Actually a good way to warm up here, might be the easiest way up the wall. Needed to stop at the second bolt to warm up my fingers, though.
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7 7+/8- | ★ Sterntaler - with Daniel | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Feb 2017 | |||
If this is 7, it's by far the most difficult I've ever climbed. Might be that the cold did its job all too well, let's see when it's warmer. All in all very nice, though.
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7 | ★★ Abseilwand - with Raimund | 17m, 3 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jun 2023 | |||
Tricky wall climbing with pretty long moves. Fussed around a bit and then fell off the last reachy move, didn't quite stretch enough to gain the good part of the hold. But the last bit is still demanding anyway, so I might as well have dropped off there.
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VIIIb | Tarantule - with Daniel | 8m, 3 | Bělá | Average | Sat 12th May 2018 | |||
Short route with a small roof. I broke away a foothold in the slab afterwards and fell.
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6b | 13 - with Bovist | 18m | Promeghin | Average | Sat 7th Apr 2018 | |||
The lower part is pumpy on small pockets and crimps, which was nice, but the finishing overhang was wet and brittle; the necessary pockets were filled with dirt and small stones, so I slipped out of one and fell.
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7 7-/7 | ★★★ Zappeldackel (NN2) - with Daniel | 15m | Kochel | Wed 15th Jul 2015 | ||||
Loose blocks in the top part, quite hard.
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7 | Lustikus - with Raimund | 6m, 2 | Westpfalz | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | ||||
No chance on this one. Two slanting fingertip sloper crimps and a long move to a bad sloper with a slight pocket. Tried a few things, found an option with a fragile structure, but it broke (sorry). I saw others climb it later that day, looked much harder than what the grade suggests (but also tricky).
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7 | ★★★ Saubere-Arbeit - with KP | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | Wed 1st May 2024 | ||||
7 | Sturm und Donner - with David X | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 4th Jul 2020 | ||||
The second bolt is in a very uncomfortable position. I also highly doubt that this route is 7 in the current state. Something (or rather: a lot) must have broken off, and it looks like it, too. Gave up at the second bolt.
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7 | Unnamed 5 - with Daniel | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 29th May 2016 | |||
Probably harder than 7 … the 4th bolt is a bit high up, if you fall before the clip, you probably touch the ground.
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7 | ★★ Wie Du Mir - so ich Dir | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 31st Oct 2021 | |||
Quite pumpy because the jams aren't really working out too well. Always had to put up more pressure than anticipated. The protection can be sorted out quite nicely, though. Good slots for smaller cams.
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