Ascents having Trad CPR

nutcracker/c.s. concerto better

Perfection. Low end.

2nd ascent

The best piece of stone on earth. Wait… how do you crack climb?

Hazel via Insta: "Well I‘m pleased as punch. ☺️Gushing and long post to follow... (but feels appropriate). Today I climbed Magic Line fourth try of the day, on the last day of the trip with the pressure on and an emotional roller coaster of (more) breaking foot holds, a sore finger, numb feet and wind-blown water from Vernal Falls. But I worked hard for this one. I knew as soon as I tried it very briefly in November 2018 that if I was ever going to climb one very hard (for me) single pitch this would be it. Just because it was so beautiful to look at, so fun to move upwards on and in such a magical place. So I trained properly with the help of David Mason all summer and I committed myself to these 35 metres for the whole valley season. It was stressful getting heartbreakingly close twice but in reality doing it on the last day of the trip meant that this route was the perfect challenge for me, testing me right to the end. To give you an idea of how hard this route was for me - the lower boulder crux is the hardest boulder problem I’ve ever done. Of course it’s nice to bask in send-glory but really the process is where I’ll take the value from and there’s no chance this route hasn’t made me a better climber/person. Thanks to the Kauks for inspiring me especially Lonnie (who I think has done the route 4 times now 🤯) and all the valley friends this year who’ve spectated or participated in this process and supported me along the way especially Madeleine Cope, Angus Kille, Barbara Zangerl (lucky belay), Jacopo Larcher, Sandy Russell, Keenan Takahashi."

Whoop! What a route! Super psyched on the style and the lessons it taught me. Given the history it was always a dream route. Quite the mental battle in the end. This trip (my 3rd on the route) I managed to pretty quickly cruise up to and through the birdbath. But I fell 9 times above the birdbath!, mostly trying to match hands after getting my foot on it. Tough to match this route as a lesson in technique and flow, especially the top half. Thanks to Marie for the many patient belays and to Will Monks for working it with me last trip.

Punk

2nd Ascent. Respect to Beth.

Hard

Trad Monster line! A bit of a pain logistically but it's worth the effort. Harder than Ozone for sure but probably not 8c.

PUUUUUUNKS!! a lot of thoughts on this one - a real shame i couldn't finish it with Joe after starting to work it together a year ago. here's hoping you get out soon mate! i think the examination line that gets thrown around is pretty accurate. Really had to do my homework on it! felt nearly impossible with incremental improvements until suddenly i was on the crimps up top trying not to spew from nervousness... Feels kind of surreal climbing out here at the moment but very happy to find a moment of clarity at the chains for a minute there. Thanks to everyone who helped out with a catch or bits of beta!

14 days of work. Feeling accomplised

FA

First Free Ascent, pink point style. 76 shots over 7 months. This is a stunning line open for business.

Wow what a fight. It's very hard to find an offwidth as pure and cool as this one... it's not repetitive at all with so many different subtle moves. Hard to give a grade but definitely a classic

Trad Wicked route

#2go Trad Exciting run out after the crux!

https://kletterblock.de/en_GB/2020/10/greenspit-8b-trad-by-barbara-zangerl/

https://kletterblock.de/en_GB/2020/10/greenspit-8b-trad-by-barbara-zangerl/

Trad Amazing line!

Finally passed...

Trad A million stars!

Great! I was not expecting so many small minging crimpers. But if you just keep pulling it's not so bad. Long runout on easy rock to the anchors.

Such a stellar climb

The whole route is a huge wide dihedral crack that gets narrow or overhanged in some places. There are plenty pitons and bolts but in some places it's spaced out, also some of the pitons are nearing their end of life.

The first 3 pitches are common with Fisura Artei and at pitch 5 it intersects with Dinamo XXX where you need to climb on the right side.