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Ascents as Attempt as trad by Sam Lancaster

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Showing all 10 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Whanganui Bay
Whekenui
21 Separation Anxiety Trad 10m Good
Sun 14th Feb 2021 - Sebastapol Bluffs
revenge of the podge
21 Tremor Mixed trad 30m, 9 Good
Poor bolting above the ledge/vegetated slope. Had a ledge fall when I was getting close to the 2nd bolt above the ledge.. Landed hard on my left heel on a rock which fractured my calcaneous (heel bone), lucky I didn't break it worse. Pretty cruxy (to me at least) moves below the 2nd bolt off ledge. Belayer had some slack out but main reason for ledge fall was high 2nd bolt off ledge imo. Nice moves to where I got to but I would not recommend this route because of the real bad ledge fall potential with current bolting.

 
Fri 27th Nov 2020 - Ti Point
Sam Bullock Wall
20 Puffin Trad 19m Very Good
Sweet climb, good gear. Took on gear at the crux and retreated as my head game just wasn't there. Will revist..

 
Sun 15th Mar 2020 - Waipapa
Main Cliff The Arches
22 Fingers Crossed Mixed trad 25m, 4 Very Good
Lead the trad section bit smoother this time, got to the first bolt again but failed at the crux. Worked the moves to the second bolt but couldn't quite get it. Warm conditions and just didn't have the stamina.

 
Sat 4th Jan 2020 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
17 The Slot Machine Trad 15m Good
Wasn't the best choice of warm up.. not particularly good at big hand jam sized jamming and my hands were already cut up enough so I decided to get lowered off.. will come back with more tape and more than one 3.

 
Fri 3rd Jan 2020 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
19 Flake 7 Trad 20m Classic
Spent too long arranging pro below the small roof so was pumped by the time I attempted the balancy crux, couldn't quite make the good jam, feet were badly positioned. Had a smooth fall onto a bomber .3 C4, lowered to rest. Was quite fustrated to loose the onsight attempt.

 
Sat 2nd Nov 2019 - Mangatepopo Valley
Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
21 The Tempest Trad 50m
Sketchy start over flakey ground with limited pro. Some of the cracks are dirty and require removal of soil to get gear in. Didn't particularly fancy the look of the first arete and had a look at the main higher arete, the first bolt looked rusty so be very cautious of these old bolts.. ended up climbing Cirrus Minor which is very dirty, particularly the crux slab which I mostly avoided going off route to the left.. The climbing upto/past the bolts looks quite tricky but good climbing, wouldn't trust those old bolts though.

 
Sun 27th Oct 2019 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
18 Psychedelic Freeway - with Rafael White Mixed trad 42m, 11 Very Good
2nd try at this one... Rafael lead the first 17 pitch and the fun 16 Captain Caveman top out, whilst I did a variation of the 2nd... This one still spanked me, was going well till about 1/2 way up the wildy exposed crack till I started pumping out and was very close to peeling off, I went off route to rest out right on a ledge... I didn't fancy a tricky move out onto the crack and quite frankly was too worked to attempt the rest of the crack so carefully climbed up the dirty slab and joined the top bolts.. disppointing but I'll be back another time perhaps fresh rather than at the end of two tiring days climbing ha!! Quite a mentally and physically draining pitch for me atm, good test piece for myself, glad I gave it a better go than last time.

 
Sun 31st Mar 2019 - Maungarei Springs
Lakeside Wall
23 The Gecko Mixed trad 10m, 2 Very Good
Was keen to try so did so in the dark with my headtorch, shouldn't have been too surprised when I failed trying to get to the 3rd bolt..!

 
Sat 30th Mar 2019 - Maungarei Springs
Lakeside Wall
24 Lust For Life - with Charlie Mixed trad 10m, 2 Very Good
I was meant to be trying The Gecko but was actually trying this route opps! Was trying to figure out the moves up the arete to the second bolt very tricky. Almost stuck it to a hold near the second bolt once..

 

Showing all 10 ascents.