Routes in Arapiles

Surprisingly not as good as the original. Start as for BP and go L 1m as for that route then straight up to join the finish of Jason.

Regularly recommended to those who can't jam. Start 3m right of Pedro. Layback and jam the water-washed corner, with technical moves L around the roof.

Up Jason then R along traverse line to Mind Games. Up MG for 4m, including it's crux, then further R to groove.

A really good route, one of the most pleasant 18s at Arapiles. Start 3m R of Jason. Jugs to bulge and over to stance on right. Step left and up thin line.

If you enjoyed Golden Fleece, you want to do this too. A little bit more tricky. Start 1m R of Golden Fleece. Up the little pillar - or step into it after a move or two. Up the thin cracks to join GF at the ledge, then up and slightly right.

Start as for Mind Games. Up Mind Games for 4m, then step 1m L to take faint groove straight up.

Start 6m right of Jason. Up past horizontal, then the groove, and head R after bulge. The hanging block at the end of the crux sounds pretty hollow.

Start 3m right of Mind Games. The seam, then join the finish of Beautiful Loser.

The incipient corner/flake just left of Dylan has a scary start, especially since a key jug and gear block came off in 2016.

An "adds nothing" R to L girdle best not written up in the first place. See notes for details.

There are 3 short chimneys at the righthand end of the wall. This is the left one and is surprisingly awkward.

The wall just right of Dylan.

The middle chimney, starting 2m right of Dylan.

The wall then the arete, starting around right of Anteus.

This line is in a hanging gully right of 'Six and Out' (this is above Jason on Golden Fleece Wall) and takes the obvious crack on the right (facing in) wall.

Strongly suspect that this is a repeat of Gobsmacking Dick which was written up in the Operation Leo Area and described as in a hanging gully above Jason. Despite the inaccuracy, I think they're the same.

This climb is up behind Golden Fleece Wall, starting up a gully of sorts directly behind the top of Dylan.

Chimney until the slab on the left wall is too far away then pull onto the right wall. Hand-crack to start, bulge, finger-crack and on to top.

Start just left of Moby Dick. Scramble up L then traverse R once level with the little roof. Now straight up to a dyno finish.

The obvious flake crack on the wall facing Golden Fleece Wall.

The featureless arete just right of Moby Dick. Poor protection.

The wide crack just R of the arete. A better jamming testpiece than The Rack. There's good gear but beware that cams have a habit of skating out of the polished rock so avoid flaring or merely parallel placements.

First 24 at Araps but otherwise a bit underwhelming. Start just R of Hyaena. Straight up then follow the R-leading diagonal.

Pretty much a separate route - straight up to the finish of Horrorscope.

Short line. Start 3m L of TSSO.

This squeezed-in face was toproped then soloed by Mudie, then retrobolted by others. The bolts were then removed so it is effectively a solo. Watch out for the loose looking blocks at the top. Start 1.5m L of TSSO.

Follow the chalk. Be sure to sew it up - there's not much room for error on routes this short! The main chalked crack line on this wall.

The block and seam. Start 1m R of TSSO.

Originally described as SSO RHV. Start as for The Stoat Steps Out. Up 3m traverse R, crossing Bunyip, for 5m and then up.

Its just a step to the left - then a jump to the right. Pelvic thrust up to top! Starts right of Bunyip and about 2m left of broken corner, sort of behind tree.

The crack then the arete.

Start: Start 2m L of D.

The line on the front of the pillar - no piking L or R. The pillar was first climbed via the crack at 16 in 1975.

As usual, make sure of your gear when you're this close to the ground. The L crack on the pillar.

The R crack.

The easy line just left of Wayne Gretsky.

Toothless. Another easy line. Start left of With an F!

The arete left of Duck Off.

Start in the gully R of Bam Bam, on the L wall. Thin crack to ledge.

Rambo would've climbed 32 if he'd had HB's mo.

Start 2m L GC.

Crack, seam, ramp, wall.

The weakness in the slab then L into chimney

Start: Start just L of 'Coyote'.

Climb the corner.

Start: Start beneath the main L-facing corner.

Up C for 5m then R into the clean corner, with a bulge and then nice laybacking.

Start: Start as for C.

The seam.

Start: Start on the L side of 'Wuss Wall'.

The curving corner.

Start: Start at the middle of the wall.

Sustained full value crack.

Start: Start 1m R of W.

Up the black jugs.

Start: Start R of WW.

The bottomless crack.

Start: Start R of WoT.

The thin crack in the front face of the block.

Start: Start beneath the small block below 'Paladin'.

Short orange wall, step L, up to ledge, step R and up.

Start: Start 15m L of GL at L rounded sickle incut, behind a small gum tree and 3m L of a scrappy gully.

The short flake with a bouldery start.

Start: Start on a small orange buttress L of TPtG.

The wall.

Start: Start just L of P.

Start beneath the appealing finger crack in the orange wall.

Saunter on up.

The central crack of 'Wailing Wall'.

Start: Start R of P.

The big L-facing flake.

Start: Start R of SS.

A pumpier partner to Sob Story and Tear Jerker.

Start as for SS and TJ.

From ledge where SS steepens (and TJ heads out R), fun and well protected climbing heads up diagonally L to crack on L wall.

The short wall with a RB.

Start: Start just R of TJ.

Start beneath the proud steep buttress forming the highest part of Wailing Wall.

Slightly daunting start leading into the crack, then pump up the power to reach left into the next crack weakness. Up this to large pockets, then finish up and left.

Start as for Life in the Fast Lane.

Instead of traversing off left at the large pockets (as for the original route), move right a couple of moves and head up the orange face via an interesting sequence to the small roof. Bombproof gear in the pockets then a slight runout to the roof (and more gear) make this a tad exciting but generally quite safe.

Start beneath the RH crack.

Up the RH groove to it's finish, go up R to a mantle, then the face and the L-most corner.

A direct finish to 'Die Loaded' which is a tad serious to lead due to the runout above the top of the initial crack. Technically 25 according to the FA, however 26 based on seriousness is a more apt grade.

Start as for Die Loaded.

Climb Die Loaded to the top of the pod, then against your better judgement crimp your way directly towards the hanging seam. Finish straight up the obvious corner.

To ledge, then committing to gain the hanging corner on the arete just R of the top of 'Die Loaded'.

Start: Start at the top of DS.

A badly protected difficult start, which has been done many ways, eases off to nondescript climbing.

Start: Start about 5m R of DL.

2 stars might be a bit generous, but should help drum up the attention this excellent route deserves.

Start: Start 6m R of DS.

Up the L-leading fat flakes with excellent gear to excellent steep face/crack moves. Walk off the gully behind the wall.

A linkup of Strife on the Gravy Train & Exploding Tomatoes. Start up SOTGT then move right and up into ET.

Up, then L on ledges. Finish up black crack in upper L wall.

Start: Start 1 m R of 'Strife on the Gravy Train'.

Doddle up.

Start: Start 1m L of MSaS.

Up the thin diagonal to a break then traverse off R. The DF goes straight up from the horizontal at the same grade.

Start: In the Gravy Train 'Gully' is a thin diagonal crack.

An accidental new route. Not easy to locate from this description though!

Start: Behind the 'Wailing Wall' up right arête.

The central crack.

Start: Start in the middle of Pritikin Wall.

Dyno, then the wall.

Start: Start R of CV.

The rooflet.

Start: Start just L of the arete, R of PS.

Tricky start then into the wide crack.

Start: Start on L end of Dog Wall.

Up past a bolt.

Start: Start just R of CC.

Head diagonally L to join the bottomless corner on the arete.

Start: Start R of D.

The corner then L around the roof.

Start: Start in the alcove R of K.

The awkward offwidth (is there any other sort?)

Start: Start on the L side of the next buttress R of WD.

You might see him on this route. Delicate and scary. Start: 2m Left of Howling Wolf at the arete.

Up arete to break. Difficult blind step up to top.

The diagonal crack then the face.

Start: Start on the front of the nose between Reservoir Gods and Jackal.

The contrived squeezed-in arete between HW and J.

Start: Start just R of HW.

More wide crack thrashery.

“ What an absolute gem. Beautiful variety of cracks with an easy finish. Would 100% recommend.”

Start: Start under the R-facing dark wide crack on the R side of the HW buttress.

Body chimney right of Jackal.

The rounded arete to the ledge, then a poorly protected grey slab and orange overlap. If you want a boring but better protected finish try the crack on the right.

Start: Start at the arete just R of F.

The thin line.

Start: Start 2m R of PL.

... gonna make you sweat, gonna make you groove.

Start just L of The Hard Ears.

Up over a bulge.

The chalked-up orange crack 10m R of Jackal.

Start: Start 1m R of THE.

A generous envisioning of a route. Presumably start behind the tree and maintain serious blinkers to climb anything resembling 18.

Start: 2m R of 'Yelping Pup'.

The buttress with an overhang.

Start: Start in the gully R of The Hard Years.

On the black/grey slab, in the gully right of Dog Wall are the next 3 routes. You pass under them descending from Hard Ears. Up following juggy left edge of slab.

The original rave review has been tempered by subsequent feedback, but it can keep a star for the moment.

Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of Two Dogs of Empiricism.

Up, finishing on arete.

Start: The tenuous line up the slab 2m right of 'Ball Terrier'.

Start: An equally tenuous line up the slab right of IDKWtCi-D.

Cooner Spunnilingus?

Start: In the back of the gully is a crack on the right wall, up higher.

Up this, avoiding temptation to bridge back.

The grade has been lost due to a formatting glitch on arapiles.net.

Start: Start: The arete between 'Arethusa' and 'Bitch Wank'.

With every ascent we'll throw in a free pump!

Start: Start in gully underneath the best part of the wall.

Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up.

Start: Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front.

The pinnacle behind this has been dubbed Jeff Kennett's Buttocks.

Line up left end of wall.

Up Jeff's Buttocks. The leftmost of two obvious cracks.

Wedged in the middle of Jeff's Buttocks. The easy looking right-hand crack.

The twin cracks.

Start: Start just L of KB.