Little Bay Guide

Easiest boulder that goes up the left side of the straight wall.

another warm-up squeezed in

a worthless bank...

Where the mantle shelf ends, hop on and hop to jug. Choose your choss holds with care at the topout.

Jump start. A touch easier then the original HSBC but takes away all the fun.

Start just right of the black streak, head left and straight up.

Up the wide black streak.

Up the black streak just right of the wide black streak. Slight highball, but gets progressively easier.

Stand start on left jug around corner and slot on face.

Start down low on two incut edges then come out and over avoiding jug to the left used for st George start

Start as for Suncorp, go into left jug start of St George and finish up and left on face. Bit sandy on the left arete.

Sitstart left hand as Suncorp, right hand up and around corner. Up to follow the arete. Bit awkward.

Left corner. Sit start on pockets, up through slopers to top out.

Start matched on big hole and go up and left to top out near Cape Town

Start as for Whale Tail and traverse left to join Cape Town and top out as for this problem.

Start on big hole and straight up.

Match on big hole to go right and out. Bit crumbly.

Straight up. Bit crumbly. Easiest mantle of the lot

Up through pockets and sloper edge with a reachy move to mantle out.

Up the arete. No stars.

Sit starting on the west face of the boulder, climb up into the comfy pocket and mantle.

Start matched on undercling and up to large hole on the tip to follow ridge and mantle out left.

As for ING up to the hole on the tip, then hard mantle.

Sit start on low nose undercling thing.

Direct from Reserve Bank. Tricky topout.

Stand start undercling straight up and mantle.

Start on the far right of the wall with hands matched on the solid lower ledge jugs. Traverse on juggy ledges left and top out once established on the prow.

Grade to be confirmed on repeats. Share your thoughts when logging

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Sit start on damp pocket and slab rail out to crumbly flake

Sit/lie start on small rail. Move up through two pockets to the good rail and top out

Start on the good jug in the bottom left of the overhang. Traverse right on sandy slopey ledges and then finish up the prow.

Grade to be confirmed on repeats. Share your thoughts when logging

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Up right fold/groove. Sit start.

The original line starts standing with left hand at elbow height and right hand on the right arete. Head straight up the centre to top out slightly left of the tip.

A sit-start was added in 2022 which starts two hands low on the left arete and heads out to the right arete before continuing as the stand start. Adds some difficulty, so probably V5/6.

Awkward on mini jugs. No stars

Stand start at the flake below S of THIS. Move left, up flake and to jug on rooflet to top out.

Start by pressing up into mini roof under IS, go up and follow seam under roof to the left to top out.

CLOSED due to rockfall. Sit start up corner, through awkward roof and awkward top out. No stars.

Sit start on the black jug above the B of BRAD and move through slopers under the second BRAD to the jug on the corner. Then a punchy heel hook up and over.

Start matched on BRAD jug. Move up and left on slopers. Avoids the holds of BRAD.

Slightly modified due to rockfall. Start on holds either side of the D of BRAD.

Slightly altered start due to rockfall. Start as BRAD and traverse right to go up at the fat flake. Extend into BRAD's right shoe for a more pumpy ending

Stand start on incut blob thing and traverse right along long flake to finish as SHOER. Sitstart possible at V1.

Start on the pocket below the E of the faint red painted SHOER and the crescent crimper right of the bulge. Powerful first move.

Sit start on the crescent crimp (shared with SHOER) and the knob to the Right. Move through the line of 4 small slopers on the overhang to finish on a dynamic move. Bring a brush as the holds are always a little sandy.

Sit start at BRAD MAM, go out to jug on BRAD BRAD and traverse back to the BRAD BRAD start hold then up BRAD.

Sit start on the prow and work your way up and top out. The separate block on the right is off.

Grade to be confirmed on repeats. Share your thoughts when logging

Phillip Booth

Right side of the slab. Establish with no hands then tap the scoop with your hands (indoor style). Up easily and top out.

Phillip Booth

Start hands matched on the low undercling on the left of the slab. Easily up to top out.

Phillip Booth

Sit start up the corner next to the slab block left of THIS IS DOGS. The slab also has some very easy warm ups on it.

Sitstart.

Nice exposed climb with somewhat poor landings about 5m left of Express Corner. Look for the large pocket on top to topout.

Sit start on pockets at edge of the platform. Up through jugs and top edge. No top out (sketchy landing).

Sitstart on small sloper, up right to sloping hole, out to large plate and to top out mantle.

Sit start up through positive holds with a punchy shoulder block last move before the top out.

Start as for Don't Bank On It and heel hook your way left, then up and out.

Sit start 2m right of the elevated bird bath on slopers and up through the blank section to top out.

Sit start 1 m right of the bird bath.

Sit start as for Banked Up, 3m right of bird bath. Heel hook right, then up and out.

Sit start and up through the curved holds.

Sitstart 3m left of Banked Up. Follow flakes and top out.

Start w jug under white patch. Heel hook start and up.

Mantle and go right and up.

Sit start heel hook to scoop and straight up.

Rockfall exposed a new possible route. V8?

Sit start on lowest undercling moving up pockets and slopers

Adam Cufer

Starting as Low tide traversing the jug rail into High tide

Sit start on lowest thin flake moving up jugs

Boulder in cape town area nestled amongst some rocks. Opposite main cliff face and cape town long low boulder. Start in the juicy underclings at top of low scoop. Move up hugging the arete using jugs, sidepulls and slopes, trend left a bit for top out.

Sit start in undercling moving straight up through crimps

Same start as Crabs direct direct moving left through pockets to jugs and topping out

One mover to sloper on the boulder behind Crabs, low start on bad hold up to sloper and top out

Up the flake.

Sit start on pockets. Up and exit left.

Start in wide crack and up blunt arete.

Up on crimps in the middle without the corner crack or arete.

Up using the corner crack. Nice.

Sit start on slots (feet on lip below), move right, then left over bulge and out.

Up the scoops

Start about 2m around corner. Bridge mat and go up.

Start on the block right of the wide crack and go up the bulge.

Start just right of wide corner crack. Straight up on slopers .

Start near pocket and up past the one finger pocket.

Up the blunt corner. Balancy.

Just before ocean corner. Start near big pocket and up through horizontal break

Heel hook fest traverse with a chossy end.

Left arete on ocean side. Sitstart and follow arete up - wet pad

Sitstart in scoop and straight up and over.

Sitstart and straight up

Pinchers ridge just left of the middle of the block. Top out slight left.

In the middle of the ocean side on white prow thing. Sitstart on slopers below the hole and pinch your way up. Slight right to top out.

Right most corner. Sit Start on left 1-finger pocket and right on sloping edge. Maybe V4?

Sitstart and mantle.

Easy warmups anywhere on the South side slab.

Kneel start using sloper rail holds above the lip only. Feet anywhere. (Sitstart using all holds is v4).

Sitstart and up on flakes either side of bulge.

Up the large flake in the middle

Start as for Main Flake but then straight up. With or without going along the flake first for one move.

Start as for Block Me and move right via sidepull sloper into The Birdbaths.

Move up an right from the big birdbath.

Sit start on the handle inside the hole and go straight up to walk off.

Sit start in between SSITD and WG, left hand in pocket at eye level, right hand on sloper. Dynamic one-move wonder to the top-out but nice.

Bridge a crashpad across the pond below and sit start reach up to follow the flake/ridge to the top.

Sit start just right of WG with left hand on ear shape hold and right hand on fat pinch at face height. Up to right sloper pocket and bump to larger sloper, match and top out.

Low sit start at the left side of the trapped block with right hand in side-pull jug pocket. Up the gentle overhang through 2 nice pinches and a sloper to top out. Trapped block is out.

Sit start just left of the small boulder, at the trapped block underneath the route (trapped block is out). Left hand in pocket, right hand on shallow crescent with the 3 dimples left of it. Up and trending left to top out as for SC.

Sit start as for GTG. Go very slightly right and top out.

On the large boulder to the right of DS. Sit start.

Sit start.

Sit start.

Stand start on the right side

Right side of the Tomb Stone boulder. Up middle from a sit start.

On the back of the boulder with Sea Cemetery. Very cool shady spot between wall and boulder. Mostly 3 move wonders, all with sit starts and nice moves. Left most climb, sit start on block, up to high right crimper, then to sloper pocket and top.

Sit start matched on big slot and up to sloper pocket to top out.

On the middle of the block just right of a diagonal ridge. Sit start.

Sit start just right of pink streak up to sloper ridge out right and top out. Dynamic.

Sit start up trough jug pocket

Sit start and up using right edge.

Up the blunt arete, stand start matched on the flake, feet on choss undercut. Up to bulge sloper and top out.

Sit start just left of the wet/dark streak. Up gentle overhang through positive holds and mantle to reach the big slot. Walk off left.

Sit start just right of wet streak and straight up. Scary high and sandy top out is not worth it.

Sit start straight up and scary mantle.

Sit start. Follow the arched crack and top out.

One of the best routes here. Sit start left hand in crack, right hand in pocket. Up right through bulge corner to good pocket, big move out left to slot/pocket and top out trending left. Poor landing.

As for ATGD but go right after the big pocket to top out. Poor landing.

Stand start on left hand pocket and right hand sloper. Up to pocket and trend right to top out.

Slightly overhanging pocketed block at north end of the Sector, 3.5 m high all sit starts. Follow the left arete up to top out and walk off.

Named after the holds. Sit start. Look for the saving edge at the top out.

Sit start 2m right of SR. Up to side-pull ridge and straight to top.

Sit start 1m left under big white scoop and top out on to scoop.

Sit start directly under scoop, up to ledge and move right to top out.

About 200m north of the last route above is a steep roof (seen on the top right in the overview photo of the crag). Stand start low and top out.

Stand start with traverse in from pockets then mantle.

Easy warmup, avoid the cave for more warmup.

Same sit start as Croissant boy, traverse to finish at Baguette boy.

Good fun. Sit start. Place your feet only where your hands have been finishing with a high foot and rolling up like a baguette.

Sit start on the "mille-feuille"-like rock to the big sheet before the top out.

Up the dark stripe. Sit start. Enjoy two wide moves to the top out.

A decent roof line next to a cliff - start deep into the cave where there is a large opening with obvious hands and feet. Make your way through some very good and some flakey holds. Once you come out and around the corner get a heel hook in and reach up to find a nice hold to top out.

Notes: be careful to not go out too far out and have a spotter watch your head next to the rock at the corner

Follow the crack line and top out.

Up the left side of the slab.

On the back of the slab with Corner Balcony. Sit start, using the pinches, move left to a mantle finish.

1m right of the middle, between corner and black streak.

On narrow black streak

On the wide black streak

Palm press on nose to start, tend right then up.

Start: Right of "Froth Corner".

Hanging (gibbon) start from the hole, then crank over and top out over the holdless slab. Easier with left hand in the hole and right in the crack.

Good slab with scary feet and a palm press to the undercling nose and out.

Excellent climb with sloper-slapping moves and a committing slab ending. Hard to get down after topping out. Jump back down or down-climb the slab warm ups routes about 4m left.

From the jug in the eye of the wormhole, straight up to the sloper ridge with plants. Topout option might be possible when dry

Up to match the sloper edge (about v5) and then a (unclimbed) hard slab topout.

One V2 move to get off the ground, then V0.

Take care with loose rock

Split Rock

Low sit start and easy jugs.

Low sit start, climb through the incline with the undercling and commit to topping out using crimps.

Low sit start, use any of the crimps to get up and finish with an easy top out.

Low ball along the ridge. Sit start matched.

Follow the lip using only the slopers on the edge from the large crack to the 2 jugs on the very tip, then mantle.

Half-sit start in middle, start below the big shelf.

Sit start.

Closest to the left arete

starts just right of the platform that the climbs to the left start on.

Right arete

Up using the left edge. Easy but o so high. Note the tiny crashpad in the image!

Route up the centre of the huge slab of death boulder.

Right route on the huge slab of death boulder.

Up the middle of the dimpled slab, straight above the bit of flat rock at the bottom.

Just left of golf ball on the dimpled slab, start where the slanting rock at the bottom is and go straight up.

Left most climb on the dimpled slab starting from the top of the slanting block.

On the pointed fin block directly in front of the access path walking in. Start on the jug on the right end and traverse left on hooks and crimps to a fun mantle. Probably done before but good fun.

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