A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Paul Badenoch Erwan Legrand Campbell Gome Nans Toullec Matt Brooks Maiia Piratinskaia Helge Øystein Maakestad Philipp Wellmann Jens Rohloff Loic Zehani
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. La Plage 16 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. La Plage 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.821694, 5.380353
- No camping
- No sleeping in car parks
- No fire
- Don't leave any trash
- Brush off your chalk and tick marks
description
Like a "Bout du Monde" light and a popular hangout with a concentration of good bouldery routes in the upper 7s.
access issues
Climbing is only authorized from the sectors "Face Ouest" to "Bout du Monde" on the Aiguebrun cliff. All the other areas, including the Confines cliff (on the opposite side) are currently on private land and are closed. Camping and fires are prohibited.
Climbing was forbidden in Buoux for more than a decade. The last area to have been reopened is the Face Ouest area which was re-opened in 2010 with many new routes and some classic lines rebolted.
Not respecting these rules could lead to the area being closed again.
approach
Old stairs from below. Approaching from the right is not recommended.
ethic
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Le Bombé Bleu
A short and bouldery 7c approach before a big ledge. Then 5 moves before a very powerful and extreme boulder problem : A single move crux sequence, probably 8A+ boulder problem, with two possible sequences :
Could be 'easy' for someone 1,85/90 M using the right sequence. Crux followed by 10m of pockets with two 8A boulder problem without rest. Then there is a last section which is 7c. The "first move" is very mysterious because anybody who have tried the move have done it before 2023 : Nicola Pelorson became the first climber in the world to do it. The route is a Myth. French climbers working on the route Set: Marc Le Menestrel, 1991 | 30m | ||||||
2 | ★ Acapulco | 7c | ||||||
3 | ★★★ Exces de Zele | 7c | ||||||
4 | Sous les Paves | 7c+ | ||||||
5 | ★ Passage | 7c+ | ||||||
6 | ★★★ La Ouate | 8a | ||||||
7 |
★★ Le Cadeau Empoisonné
Set: Buno Fara & Hervé Laillé, 1986 | 7c | ||||||
8 | ★★ Gedeon | 7a+ | ||||||
9 | ★★ Scorpion | 7a | 4 | |||||
10 | Kookaburra | 7a+ | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Cool Raoul | 7a | ||||||
12 |
★★ Relax Max
The number of bolts listed (9) includes one for the anchor and doesn't include the first, which is clipped from the ground just next to the belay station. | 6b+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
13 | Tranquille Bill | 6b | ||||||
14 | Paradis Artificiel | 7c | ||||||
15 | Il Moro de Venezia | 7a | 3 | |||||
16 | Chocolat Moto | 7a |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
6b | Tranquille Bill | ||||
6b+ | ★★ | Relax Max | 20m, 9 | ||
7a | Chocolat Moto | ||||
★★★ | Cool Raoul | ||||
Il Moro de Venezia | 3 | ||||
★★ | Scorpion | 4 | |||
7a+ | ★★ | Gedeon | |||
Kookaburra | |||||
7c | ★ | Acapulco | |||
★★★ | Exces de Zele | ||||
★★ | Le Cadeau Empoisonné | ||||
Paradis Artificiel | |||||
7c+ | ★ | Passage | |||
Sous les Paves | |||||
8a | ★★★ | La Ouate | |||
? | ★★★ | Le Bombé Bleu | 30m |