A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1. Les Dévers 12 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Les Dévers 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.822033, 5.380662
- No camping
- No sleeping in car parks
- No fire
- Don't leave any trash
- Brush off your chalk and tick marks
description
Un grand mur perché déversant entre 20 et 40°, avec beaucoup de voies mythiques comme "La Mission" (8b), "Azincourt" (premier 8c de France), ou encore "La Chiquette Du Graal" (8b+).
access issues
Climbing is only authorized from the sectors "Face Ouest" to "Bout du Monde" on the Aiguebrun cliff. All the other areas, including the Confines cliff (on the opposite side) are currently on private land and are closed. Camping and fires are prohibited.
Climbing was forbidden in Buoux for more than a decade. The last area to have been reopened is the Face Ouest area which was re-opened in 2010 with many new routes and some classic lines rebolted.
Not respecting these rules could lead to the area being closed again.
approach
L'accès est un peu compliqué, on est obligé de faire une voie en 6b/c, soit par les dernières voies de TCF ou alors par une voie de la Croisette. On peut tout de même y parvenir par le haut de la falaise.
ethic
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Et Dieu Créa L'Infâme | 8a+ | ||||||
| 2 | ★★ Total Transfert | 8b | ||||||
| 3 |
★★ Azincourt
First 8c in France, climbed by a British! Originally, this was an artificial route but in 80's, some sport climbers search to realy climb the route, and then it became an extreme project at this time. Over a number of sessions at the end of 1988 Ben Moon worked out a sequence and in January 1989, managed to redpoint the route which he name Azincourt/Agincourt after a famous battle between the French and English. The route seemed a step up from all the other routes Ben had climbed (he had done all the 8b+ in Buoux) so he graded it 8c - the first route of that grade in France. The crux is a ferocious 7C boulder problem 5-move sequence on two fingers whith very big morphological moves (necessarily 1,65 metters). But this is preceded by a first boulder problem on tiny - edges. Azincourt has left its mark in climbing history not only because of the controversial name that recalls the historic French military defeat, but also because back then the South of France in general and Buoux in particular were at the absolute forefront of hard sport climbing. Repeats didn’t take long, at the hands of Didier Raboutou, Marc le Menestrel, François Dreyfus, Alessandro Lamberti and Stefan Glowacz. Repeats today are however somewhat rare, Ben attributing this to the "brutal" Buoux style which requires one to get accustomed to. Video of the ascent by Sébastien Bouin : https://youtu.be/to-JaZjx3GA FA: Ben Moon, 1989 | 8c | 20m | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ Brexit Exit
First 8c+ in Buoux. Magnificient extension of Azincourt. Set: François Legrand, 2018 FA: Loic Zehani, 2019 | 8c+ | 23m | |||||
| 5 |
★★★ La Chiquette Du Graal
Set: Bruno Clément | 8b+ | ||||||
| 6 | ★★★ La Chiquette De L'Intégraal | 8c+ | ||||||
| 7 |
★★★ Le Spectre Du Sur-Mutant
Set: Jean - Batiste Tribout | 8b+ | ||||||
| 8 |
★★★ Miss Catastrophe
Set: Jean - Batiste Tribout | 8c | ||||||
| 9 |
★★★ La Mission
Set: Didier Raboutou | 8b | ||||||
| 10 | ★★★ Devers Pervers | 7b+ | ||||||
| 11 | ★★★ Jextraordinaire | 7c+ | ||||||
| 12 | ★★★ Les Caprices D'Anatole | 7c+ | ||||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 7b+ | ★★★ | Devers Pervers | |||
| 7c+ | ★★★ | Jextraordinaire | |||
| ★★★ | Les Caprices D'Anatole | ||||
| 8a+ | ★★★ | Et Dieu Créa L'Infâme | |||
| 8b | ★★★ | La Mission | |||
| ★★ | Total Transfert | ||||
| 8b+ | ★★★ | La Chiquette Du Graal | |||
| ★★★ | Le Spectre Du Sur-Mutant | ||||
| 8c | ★★ | Azincourt | 20m | ||
| ★★★ | Miss Catastrophe | ||||
| 8c+ | ★★★ | Brexit Exit | 23m | ||
| ★★★ | La Chiquette De L'Intégraal |