La Grande Candelle Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome Némo Budd68 Christoph Rauch Kai Georges "the Greek" Livanos † Kristýna Dubská Tomas Benders Gravity is a Myth Nohealth

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. La Grande Candelle 38 in Crag
- 1.1. Arete de Marseille 14 in Cliff
- 1.2. Centrale 16 in Cliff
- 1.3. Illusion perdue 6 in Cliff
- 1.4. Corniches David 2 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. La Grande Candelle 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.212044, 5.467440

access issues

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

inherited from France

ethic

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

inherited from France

1.1. Arete de Marseille 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Mostly Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★★ L'arête de Marseille / Arete des Marseillais One of the great multi-pitch classics in the Massif des Calanques. A superb line at a very approachable difficulty. It was immortalized by a famous picture of Gaston Rebuffat as he jumps from one pillar to the other, a memorable step at the beginning of the second pitch. Approach is from Luminy, via a 1h20min walk on the wide track to Sugiton then take the GR left to the Socle de la Candelle. FA: J.Laurent, H.Paillon, M.Paillon & E.Wyss, 1927	6a	Sport 210m, 6
2	Couloir Sud Direct FA: Suzanne Dijon, André Coudray, Albert Ouannon & Georges "the Greek" Livanos †, 1942	6b	Sport 160m, 6
3	Directe du pilastre	7b	Sport 140m, 4
4	Pulp Fiction	7a	Sport 130m, 4
5	Sur les ailes de l'ange	7b	Sport 4
6	★★★ Les fleurs du mal	7a	Sport 130m, 5
7	★ La cheminee bouisson	5c	Sport 120m, 3
8	Directe de la bouisson	7b+	Sport 130m, 4
9	Le pilier rond	7c	Sport 100m, 3
10	Le cac	6b	Sport 4
11	Voie de la croix	6b	Sport 130m, 4
12	L'ete meurtrier	6c+	Sport
13	El cap	6b A1	Aid 4
14	L’arête de Cassis FA: Giselle Albert & George Albert, 1940	5c	Trad 300m, 11

1.2. Centrale 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Mostly Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Invitation au voyage	7b+	Sport 4
2	Splendeur et decadence	6c	Sport 5
3	Le chant du crepuscule	6b	Sport
4	L'ecume des jours	6a+	Sport
5	Les demi-dieux	6b	Sport
6	Sublime ignominie	6c	Sport 2
7	Les dieux	5c A2	Aid
8	Les dieux	5c A4	Aid 3
9	Ce chatiment de l'orgueil	6c	Sport 2
10	Le voyage enchante	7a+	Sport
11	★★ La centrale	6b+	Sport 5
12	★★★ La Centrale FA: G. Rébuffat & Georges "the Greek" Livanos †, 1941	6b+	Sport 120m, 5
13	Super centrale	6c+	Sport 4
14	Pretty woman	6a	Sport
15	La calculatrice	6a	Sport
16	★ Reve or reality	6b+	Sport 2

1.3. Illusion perdue 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	La force du destin	6b+	Sport
2	Le mystere de la foi	6c	Sport
3	Illusion perdue	6c	Sport
4	A la recherche de l'absolu	7a	Sport
5	La salaire de la peur	7a+	Sport
6	Songe d'une nuit d'ete	7a	Sport 2

1.4. Corniches David 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Le couloir suspendu	6a	Sport 5
2		Voie de la face sud	5b	Sport 6

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
5b		Voie de la face sud	Sport 6	1.4. Corniches David
5c	★	La cheminee bouisson	Sport 120m, 3	1.1. Arete de Marseille
		L’arête de Cassis	Trad 300m, 11	1.1. Arete de Marseille
5c A2		Les dieux	Aid	1.2. Centrale
5c A4		Les dieux	Aid 3	1.2. Centrale
6a	★★★	L'arête de Marseille	Sport 210m, 6	1.1. Arete de Marseille
		La calculatrice	Sport	1.2. Centrale
		Pretty woman	Sport	1.2. Centrale
		Le couloir suspendu	Sport 5	1.4. Corniches David
6a+		L'ecume des jours	Sport	1.2. Centrale
6b		Couloir Sud Direct	Sport 160m, 6	1.1. Arete de Marseille
		Le cac	Sport 4	1.1. Arete de Marseille
		Voie de la croix	Sport 130m, 4	1.1. Arete de Marseille
		Le chant du crepuscule	Sport	1.2. Centrale
		Les demi-dieux	Sport	1.2. Centrale
6b A1		El cap	Aid 4	1.1. Arete de Marseille
6b+	★★★	La Centrale	Sport 120m, 5	1.2. Centrale
	★★	La centrale	Sport 5	1.2. Centrale
	★	Reve or reality	Sport 2	1.2. Centrale
		La force du destin	Sport	1.3. Illusion perdue
6c		Ce chatiment de l'orgueil	Sport 2	1.2. Centrale
		Splendeur et decadence	Sport 5	1.2. Centrale
		Sublime ignominie	Sport 2	1.2. Centrale
		Illusion perdue	Sport	1.3. Illusion perdue
		Le mystere de la foi	Sport	1.3. Illusion perdue
6c+		L'ete meurtrier	Sport	1.1. Arete de Marseille
		Super centrale	Sport 4	1.2. Centrale
7a	★★★	Les fleurs du mal	Sport 130m, 5	1.1. Arete de Marseille
		Pulp Fiction	Sport 130m, 4	1.1. Arete de Marseille
		A la recherche de l'absolu	Sport	1.3. Illusion perdue
		Songe d'une nuit d'ete	Sport 2	1.3. Illusion perdue
7a+		Le voyage enchante	Sport	1.2. Centrale
		La salaire de la peur	Sport	1.3. Illusion perdue
7b		Directe du pilastre	Sport 140m, 4	1.1. Arete de Marseille
		Sur les ailes de l'ange	Sport 4	1.1. Arete de Marseille
7b+		Directe de la bouisson	Sport 130m, 4	1.1. Arete de Marseille
		Invitation au voyage	Sport 4	1.2. Centrale
7c		Le pilier rond	Sport 100m, 3	1.1. Arete de Marseille