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Summary

some of the routes stay dry in the rain, not when it's windy though.

Description

Some real classics on this crag and all the routes are solid for the grade.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive in Königstein past the (quite lovely) swimming pool towards Steinbach (Sulzbach R.). On top of the Hill is Breitenstein to your left, drive into the village and park in front of the hikers-map. Walk up the street until you see the chappel to your right (2min), the crag is right underneath.

Ethic

be prepared for some exiting bolt distances.

Routes

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Grade Route

an amazing collection of scrap metal, some of it still used for protection though

start at the right of the chimney past two bolts, then bridge the chimney onto the prow to your left and finish off avoiding the moss.

FFA: T. Marschner

The amazing Arete, you want to be comfortable leading 6b's though.

starts up the flake, onto the wall and after a solid crux you will find yourself pumped stupid if you get to the big hole with the birdshit in it. now you just need to finish it off, burning forearms until you clip the chain!

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1988

Activity

Check out what is happening in Breitenstein.