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Breitenstein

Flora and Fauna: Temporary closure due to breeding birds | Temporäre Sperrung wegen Vogelbrut

Some routes at this crag are closed due to breeding birds.

Einige Routen an diesem Fels sind wegen brütender Vögel gesperrt.

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Created 3 years ago - Edited 3 days ago

Seasonality

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Summary

some of the routes stay dry in the rain, not when it's windy though.

Description

Some real classics on this crag and all the routes are solid for the grade.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Drive in Königstein past the (quite lovely) swimming pool towards Steinbach (Sulzbach R.). On top of the Hill is Breitenstein to your left, drive into the village and park in front of the hikers-map. Walk up the street until you see the chappel to your right (2min), the crag is right underneath.

Ethic

be prepared for some exiting bolt distances.

Routes

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Grade Route

an amazing collection of scrap metal, some of it still used for protection though

start at the right of the chimney past two bolts, then bridge the chimney onto the prow to your left and finish off avoiding the moss.

FFA: T. Marschner

The amazing Arete, you want to be comfortable leading 6b's though.

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FA: Rolf Schweickert, 2004

Closed

FA: Uwe Maier, 2009

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starts up the flake, onto the wall and after a solid crux you will find yourself pumped stupid if you get to the big hole with the birdshit in it. now you just need to finish it off, burning forearms until you clip the chain!

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1988

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Direkteinstieg und -ausstieg zum Breitendach. Über 2 eigene Haken zum 2. Haken des Breitendach. Vom 3. Haken des Breitendach direkt gerade an der Kante über einen weiteren eigen Haken zu eigenem UH.

FA: Thomas Hoffmann, Oct 2018

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680490

Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2020

Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner

Date: 2021

Band 1 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6100 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 2 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura …

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 10 May
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