Routes as sport in Sebastapol Bluffs

Left most line of bolts. Start on boulders in stream bed and up just right of arete. Crux above small ledge between bolts 6/7. Angle right to double bolt belay. Rap 25m.

Middle line of bolts in wall. Start in stream bed and up bolted crack system. Good holds appear when you need them. Through overlap and up to chains.

Right hand line of bolts.

Nice bridging along a left corner. You might want to place a cam before the first bolt for protection.

Long route on RH S of red wall crossing two overlaps and diagonals to the upper R of the wall.

Start the 2nd pitch of COG following bolts left to finish as for Crown of Thorns

Starts on the face and moves to the arete

Pitch1 10m grade 18 pitch2 10m grade 19

Run out, some bolt are 4-5 meter apart! Has rap anchors half way up.

1. After Nicked, keep traversing right after the overlap, watching out for loose rocks on the white scoop/roof area before getting to the double anchor on the right.

2. Keep right and go around the arete veering left to climb up the ramp - this pitch is combined with pitch 3 on ClimbNZ

3. Climb up veering to the right following some run out steps - this pitch is combined with pitch 2 on ClimbNZ

4. Climb up the large block and gain the arete following the face through loose blocks

Abseil from the top anchor to Red Wall (Ernie/Bert) using two 60m ropes

About 15 meters after the start of the first pitch of Nicked Extension, traverse left below the first horizontal white roof to find a double-anchor belay station. From there, climb directly up through both roofs and meet the anchor of Nicked Extension after 10-15 meters of easy climbing without bolts.

Bring two ropes to get down - although apparently it is possible to rap across to the anchors half way up Nicked.

P1 15 P2 16 (Don't bother - scrubby).

Best to do P1 of this then traverse right into P2 of Shark Attack.

Starts just left of where the track arrives.

Tom Fyfe reputedly climbed this route solo, as preparation for the first ascent of Aoraki Mt Cook. It has since been retrobolted and makes a superb moderate multi-pitch rock climb.

1. 37m, 14 Climb the second line of bolts from the right-hand end of the slab.The climb follows a prominent rib left of the Totara bushes before moving onto the open face above. Belay at the left end of the ledge the climb arrives ( you can see the climber from there) and then move across teh Aubrey step to belay behind the shrubbery. NB The lower double rings are for abseil descent. Alternatively and quite popular was to start up the Shark Attack line, climb into the yellow scoop and diagonal up R.

2. 36m, 13 - This is the primo long pitch.From the belay behind the trees, climb up and over a small bulge(crux) then stay left of the arete up the line of bolts (passing a abseil anchor en route) until reaching a substantial ledge with another anchor. Clip the next bolt on the left (ignoring the anchors) climb the pedestal and continue on a short 10m (3 B) pitch to the next ledge where Shark Attack finishes. The arete can be climbed higher.

3. 20m, 15 - Variant a) From Shark Attack/Red arete belay head L up easy slab to base of bulging wall R of Mako. Through the bulge on the left then up face left of the arete to a ring belay. another bolt protects the easy traverse to the Mako anchor further up the ridge.

   Variant b) 3 Bolts. from the back edge of the SA/RA ledge follow steep slightly run out Grade 13 climbing to the same anchor. Serious if you stuff up getting to bolt 2.

Unnamed link pitch between P1 of Let's go bushwalking and Mako

Overgraded and incorrectly named "Kermit" on the 2012 Sebastopol brochure. From the anchor at the top of the first (50m) pitch of Shark Attack, climb up a couple of meters and head left through the bushes to find its start anchor. Either reanchor there, or just continue up without clipping the anchor to avoid drag. After reaching the next anchor, follow the bolts left again and though the overlap.

Crack on the right.

Arete. Chain Anchor.

Climb the narrow rib in the trees moving R at 2/3 height. New anchor with excellent secure large clipping carabiners.

Short climb left of the Poo Pond slab over a small bulge - better than it looks.

Great climb with a ledge at the top of the first pitch for easy belaying. Pitch 1: 15m with 7 bolts. Anchors on 1st pitch- chains and a second set with rings. Pitch 2: 30m with 10 bolts. Loose rocks make the last few moves a bit dodgy but well worth climbing. Anchor for 2nd pitch- chains.

The original route started on the R of the face to the ledge then a 2nd pitch above. Two pitches that probably deserve more traffic than they get.

P1. A line of bolts (mossy?) on the R of the wall to the ledge. 21m Grade 16

P2. Interesting climbing.The first bolts are remarkably close together then the gap and the clips get further apart. 30m Grade 15

line of bolts right of poo pond slab. Thin and fun!

Run out!

Climb through a roof on the far left side of the crag.

Start to the right of Fire in the Hole. Surmount the roof, then find more hard moves at the top.

Start to the right of Shook and left of the vegetated ledge. Good, steep moves with poor rock near the top.

Climbs to the right of the vegetated ledge through a diagonal break and between a narrow corridor of moss. Some of the better rock on the cliff, but it's a low standard. Has a halfway anchor to facilitate SAR training.

A fun, short route on the far right side of the left wall. Negotiate the bulge/roof and cruise up the face and arete.

The left most route on the right side of the cliff. Climbs through light coloured rock on generous yet possibly temporary holds.

Starts just to the left of Resurrection. Originally a dry tooling route.

The right-most route on the right side, and the original line of the crag. Starts left of the bolt line to avoid the roof, although the direct start can also be climbed at about grade 21.