Routes in Northern Norway for selected grade

Description and topo available here:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214814/Breiflogtinden-East-Face-Arctic-Odyssey

Sit start on flake, traverse low on slopers & finish up left of arête

Sit start on flake, dyno to sloper & mantle up

Sit start on the left with both hands on the horn. Sloper traverse then mantle up onto the flake

A broken flake at the start means this route is now significantly harder than listed in the guidebook (6a).

Video beta- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UleOB7XBMZg

Great movement on great rock. Well protected. Deserves more stars/repeats.

A few hard moves through the initial overhang (easier if taller) leads into some layback & smearing through the zig zag crack (7-). From here, it´s easier jamming to the top (6).

Bolted lower-off replaced the sketchy shrub rapp July 2021. New rapp station was also installed above. It´s easy to setup a top rope.

A variation to the start of Vestpillaren taking thin grooves in the blunt arete to the left.

Steep fingers & hands up the flake into a mantle and slab finish. Protection is fine despite the heart rating in the guidebook.

Bolted loweroff as of 2019 (possible to setup a TR)

Tackling the full height of Storpillaren, from the stiff lower slabs into natural corner systems. The line has now been freed a few times & is the obvious next step up from Storpillaren. Some bolted belays make retreats possible.

Recent ascent description

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Summary from a repeat

`The approach was long and uncomfortable and again and again the feet sunk into the cool swamp. The climbing guide praised the route above all & the line also looked great. The 50m Crux in particular was impressive. The unpleasant part was just the thin crack was overgrown & a lot of patience & calf power was needed to remove this onsight. The pitches that followed were brittle, slippy, or both. Whoever thinks this is pleasant, then we can happily recommend the route! The descent took over 2 hours in the steepest swamp I have ever seen. In conclusion 5-6h walking, 5 pitches of climbing & only one length was rewarding, but overgrown´

The arête. Sit start 7b

1. The approach pitch up the groove to the base is a bit of a bummer.

2. The thin roof to wide crack (small & big cams needed). Rapp off the back.

The gasp bolted crack

The first route up the West wall ascends the pillar left of the central grass line. The hard crux moves can be done at 7- A1.

Some images here-

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Extenstion to Tormek.

DBB

Traverse the wall from right to left.