Routes as sport in Dairy Farm

Start from the ground between Acrophobia and Desperado, straight upward to first bolt. Use the crack on the right hand side for side pull and traverse left towards the ledge. SS Anchor located at the right side below of Acrophobia's. Harder proposed variation: stay on the rock face and eliminate the crack side pull on the right hand and fully commit on the rock face crimps towards up the ledge.

Eliminate - Start on the crimpy beginning holds of Tales of Power, bearing left towards the right most crack of Desperado. Use the leftmost features of the face and the right hand edge of the crack to make progress upwards, staying well left of the bolts. Once you gain the horizontal ledge, rejoin Tales of Power on the thin flake to the finish at the bolted anchor.

Follows the open book corner. Keep strictly to the right all the way to the top. As of 1/7/2020 a large hold at the bottom of the climb was hanging off and was removed (by the FA’s) to protect others. This has increased the initial difficulties somewhat, but the climb retains its original character (just at a slightly more taxing grade).

Starts 2m to the right of the And Justice for all crack, taking in the face all the way to the top. Follow the line of the bolts. Loose rock abounds. A serious proposition for a sport climb that is not reflected in the grade.

A Dairy Farm classic comprising technical face climbing.

Scramble start to a line that follows two parallel weaknesses in the rock. Work up to a natural break with two obvious (suspiciously perfect) handholds. Move right and mount the protrusion. Staying left, insecure moves bring you a large ledge. From here some powerful moves to reach the anchor.

Feb 2021 update:-

static sling thread protection is no longer there. A cam can be used to protect the last move to the anchor. A BD Camalot #2 (Gold) size fits well.

The first half follows the same line as 'Living Water', at the 5th bolt stay right and climb to the anchor on the vertical wall.

Route shares the first 5 bolts as 'Take it Easy' and then traverses to the left. Details originally posted here.

Can be climbed with slight variations. As noted in the "Climb Singapore" guidebook, the bolts were originally placed as a "secondary protection" to help beginners learn to how to place traditional protection. This explains why the 2 separate lines of bolts are everywhere but where you need them.

Good for just topping off practice for beginner. Moss have been cleared.

The left most climb, starting on top of the ledge. Takes an ascending rightward line to a bulge, then proceeds direct to the anchors (swapped from rap bolts to a 10mm 316 load rated chain and mallions to mitigate the edge just below) Be careful of loose rocks (as always at DF).

The second bolted line from the left on the shelf. The crux is the bouldery section through first two bolts before it merges with Struggle Bus to the anchors. Make sure to stick clip the first bolt or risk a serious mangling as you hit the ledge then the deck. Can be combined with Chicken Shit to go from the bottom to the top of the crag.

Unstable rock on the first pitch but fun climb. Two chains but some rusty anchors, and now obstructed by a fallen dead tree that needs to be removed. Second pitch is slabby, then vertical. Second pitch has no anchor and ends at a small bolt and impossible to retreat without leaving gear. Old aluminum locking biner there left by previous climbers.

Runs up the ledges to the right of the main crack. Quite mossy. Guidebooks say Trad only but appears to be recently bolted.

Note: I think it's 11 bolts, but might have remembered wrong. Take a few extra just in case.

In remembrance of Wolfgang Güllich †.

Homage extension (this route combines the two pitches on Homage)

(Unknown route) This is the route of the left of the face of the slab.

(Unknown Route) This is the short route on the right of the slab. I believe it is just the beginning of "Art of Noise" but finishes just at the top of the slab, rather than moving around the back.

(sketchy) Traverse across the American Pie wall, starting from the Top of Pitch 1 on Stepping Up ABCD Wall. Finishes on top of American Pie.

Full 2-pitch climb starts at bottom of ABCD finishes on top of American Pie.

Climb the easy slab to make the first high bolt. From the slab, step out right to gain the face. Higher up traverse right. Route shares the anchor and last bolted protection with Rainmaker.

Keep to the right side of the hangars and use the corner. The variation which just goes directly up the face is 6b+.

Climb the face instead of the corner

One move wonder slab. Do not use the side wall for the 7a.

One move wonder slab. Make use of the RHS sidewall for an easier grade.

Steer clear of the arete to the right of the bolt line to avoid pulling head-sized rocks down on your belayer.

Some loose rocks on the route. Climb carefully and do not pull out rocks.

Ascend the face then transition right, under the overhang. Traverse rightwards. Be very careful when moving onto the large rock under the overhang - it may be unstable. It is easily identifiable with the steel bar which adds some security. Keep people on the ground away from this rock as you climb. Move over the overhang into a forgiving finish.

Unfinished new route, not yet in a fully cleaned and climbable state. Will complete cleaning and final choss check once the PTSD from bolting it using a mixture of beaks, hooks and dark magic has subsided.

Starts from the ledge where the belay area for Alarette is, immediately to the right of Alarette's belay anchors, staying in the relatively sheltered corner for the first several meters before coming out onto the face and then punching straight up what would be the left nostril of the Nose.

The 5th bolt may currently be slightly difficult for shorter climbers to clip. Placement was forced by the quality of the surrounding rock. It is intended to protect the move over the bulge, and it is highly recommended that climbers clip the 5th before making the traverse out left to get over that bulge.

There are also a few blocks at the last 2 bolts which looked like they might come loose, but haven’t given way to tugging with body weight. Nevertheless, do be careful if you are giving the route a go.

Hardware comprises Hilti HSA-R wedge bolts with Petzl hangers, all SS316. Anchors are currently two bolts, each with a quicklink/maillon. The quicklinks/maillons will soon be replaced with rated SS316 quicklinks.

With all the craziness going on in 2020, and given the part of the Nose where the route is, Swab Test seemed the perfect name to memorialise the year.

First bolt is quite high, can place 1 piece of natural pro to protect first move. Enjoy the rappel peg on the key hold of the crux. Second pitch is dirty. Quicklinks in the anchor bolts of the second pitch replaced on 29 Feb 2020.

• SS Chain anchor is located between Dragon Shit and Tu Shang Xi Lou (Alone Up the West Tower). Be careful at the approach to bolt 1 to 2 check for loose rock. Climb on the rock face and right corner ledge as much as possible avoiding inner corner Dragon shit (lots of wet dirt, soft rocks, sketchy).
• Caution: Lots of ants/insects in the area, those ants were crazy. Bring insect repellent.