Routen in Africa für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

Goes up prominent corner recess to left of a cave 30m east of 'Cave Crag'. Follows recess to two-thirds of height, crosses to face on right then straight upward.

Follows the ridge on the left-hand side of the 'Frame Route', i.e. up the left edge below the overhang from which the FRAME derives its name. The climb has four pitches all of which are grade 8 except for the beginning of the third which is grade 9.

An easy route up the buttress on the left of a prominent cleft in the krantz some 45m west of 'Frame Route'.

Left of 'Sinister' a route is picked out inclining to the right above and to left of reddish overhanging rock.

Starts from grass ledge, about 9m to left of 'Lunacy' and 3m to right of a buttress projecting from the face. The climb follows an almost vertical line up the face from the starting beacon, in 3 or 4 pitches of grade 8 climbing. Climbs directly up the buttress and on left of buttress, also of grade 8, are considered variations of 'Eureka Face'.

This climb is usually commenced from the top of the grass slope a few meters right of 'Eureka Gully' , and ascends the first band of rock in 2 or 3 pitches of 9 standard to the broad grass ledge. Start from the grass ledge below a long grey face to the left of EUREKA FACE. The climb proceeds straight up the face in a series of pitches of grade 9.

Follows a line to right of 'Eureka Gully', where a number of grade 8 routes may be selected. Leaves line of gully towards the top and goes straight up to summit.

One movement towards bottom of gully may be classed as 8, otherwise this is an easy route of about 6 standard to the summit of the escarpment.

There are several easy routes up the buttress on the left of 'Eureka Gully'. The easier climbs are chosen to start from the broken rock on the inner side, i.e. the gully side. Several routes exist further to the left, e.g. 'Agony View', but the first two pitches of these leading to the first broad ledge are of slightly higher standard.

Ambles up the ridge left of 'Eureka Buttress'.

This climb follows a definite grassy cleft running up the entire height of 'Eureka Buttress' approximately at its centre. Several alternatives present themselves.

15m upstream from 'Wassail'.

1. 20m 9 Start in a deep recess and climb bearing left to a small corner. Climb up, bear slightly right and then back left to a good stance.

2. 25m 8 Continue straight up keeping right in a wide recess to the top.

The route is on the first buttress upstream of the grassy broken grey slabs, on the right side of the kloof. The route follows the first obvious corner on the left-hand side of the buttress (downstream side).

1. [9] 45m Climb in the corner or just to the right of it. The pitch may be conveniently split.

Start in the easy corner 5m downstream of 'Devil Dodger'.

1. 35m 8 Climb the obvious corner and continue up to a tree belay at the point where the face steepens and the corner becomes more defined once again.

2. 15m 8 Climb the corner to a large ledge.

3. 15m 9 Climb the steep chimney above on good grips.

Starts on the buttress about 15m to left of 'Emerald Slab'. (45m east of 'Male Firenze')

1. [8] XXm

   Climb to a stance below a sloping recess.

2. ?m 9 Follow through this recess.

3. ?m 9 Starts to right of overhanging blocks, bearing slightly right then up on edge of ridge on left of 'Emerald Slab' through blocks to the top.

Immediately to the left of Remhoogte Gully a number of grade 8 routes are possible. The recognised route for 'Venters Corner' starts about 18m to right of the lunch site up to a ledge (12m), traverses to the right (18m) to the prominent ridge on left of a large recess and up this ridge almost directly to the summit.

This route lies on the face immediately to the right of the 'set back' face referred to under 'Dassie Route'. Start about 12m to the right of a cave which is at the base of the right-hand containing ridge of the 'Dassie Route' set back face.

1. ?m 9 Ascend about 6m in recess (9), traverse right behind a poised block 2m high, ascend rather dirty crack for 6m to wide ledge. Walk to left along ledge and ascend to top of subsidiary buttress on the right hand containing ridge of the set back face.

2. ?m 8 From here take the most direct and pleasant route to top.

Note: If more difficulty is desired, climb the following variation: From the cave traverse right to a smooth walled recess closed in by blocks higher up. Ascend recess passing over blocks (13) and continue up crack to top of the subsidiary buttress. This variation is more direct but rather out of keeping with the rest of the climb.

At the base of the buttress immediately on the left of 'Dassie Route' is a brown face with broken blocks below it. On the left of this buttress is a recess with a grey, grass-strewn face extending to the left from it. The climb follows this recess from the bottom of the slope. Climb partly in the recess and partly on the face.

1. 30m 9 Climb recess.

2. 30m 9 The more difficult section of this pitch is at the start and a belay can be made at 18m if required.

3. 15m 8 To summit.

This climb follows the right-hand edge of the prominent ridge immediately west of 'Juniper Face', i.e. the next ridge west from that to the left of 'Dassie Route'. The climb follows the recess to the right of the ridge to a point about 45m up where a 'porthole' through the ridge allows a traverse to the left (through the porthole) across the adjacent face to the next ridge left. The final pitch goes up the recess from this point.

Start on the ridge to the left of 'Carabiner Crag' and at the lowest point of the buttress to the left of the dark face and prominent cracks which face onto 'Carabiner Crag'.

1. 35m 8 Climb the red face for 3m before moving left around the small ridge, then up for 20m until broken rock and grassy ledges form the last 12m of the pitch. Belay on the large grassy platform at an open book.

2. 35m 9 Climb the 3m high open book then climb right and up for 15m to a small low overhang. A grassy ledge above the overhang is reached by going round to the left then up onto a small grey wall. The next 10m is on an open face with horizontal ripples which give way to larger holds and a more broken face up to the stance on large blocks on the right hand edge of the ridge.

3. 35m 8 Start on the right side of the ridge on broken slabs for 4m, then cross to the left onto the grey face and stay on the right-hand side of this face for 20m until it gives way to broken rock for 10m to the top.

The climb starts about 16m upstream from the start of 'Grandstand' at a small gnarled tree 2m downstream from the boulder at the corner of the gully leading out of Trident kloof to the west.

1. [9] 18m

   Climb almost vertically for 9m to a large sloping ledge from which the route angles slightly to the right while climbing a further 5m. Scramble up the last 4m to the base of 'Grandstand' pinnacle.

2. 14m 7 Climb the face just to the left of the pinnacle, surmount overhang 3m up (some moves encroach on 'PINNACLE CHIMNEY) and continue to top of pinnacle. Alternatively the east face of the pinnacle can be climbed which maintains a grade 9 difficulty to the top.

3. 20m 8 Belay leader from the pinnacle top from where the pitch starts as a horizontal traverse to the left for 6m, at the same level as the belayer, turn the corner above an overhang, angle upwards to the left for 9m to a big chockstone which is the last obstacle before reaching the top, which is only 3m to the left of the top of 'Grandstand'.

At the left hand side of the smooth rock wall on which 'Lifebuoy', 'Shady Overhang' and 'Bat's Overhang' are situated. The route follows an obvious line immediately to the left of the smooth rock wall.

An easier start is up the deeper recess about 5m left of the smooth face.

A more difficult first pitch 13 is up the shallow recess about 1,5m left of the smooth face. From the belay practice ledge (large block here) continue on up right-angled recess.

Crack/chimney with large wedged block 12m downstream from 'Convalescence'. The climb finishes through the first obvious break in the overhangs to the right of Convalescence.

1. 18m 7 Follow crack to block (one can pass between block and face). Gain top of block via its right hand face. Continue up nose, starting a few meters to right of stance on large ledge.

2. 15m 8 Up and a shade left on face above, passing left of small overhang. This gives access to small recess which leads up into open book formed by the face and the right side of the above mentioned break in the overhang.

Start as for 'Solo' in a crack to the left of an upstream facing slab.

1. 15m 9 Climb up and left over dark coloured bulging rock, then up to tree.

2. 20m 9 Move right into corner then do a step over onto the front of the prominent arete.

3. 20m 9 Climb steep face moving left past tree to top, or go directly up corner (10).

The climb starts in well defined small corner about 20m below 'Solo' and either a grade 7 or 8 start may be made.

1. [9] 17m

   Climb a shallow recess with a narrow opening at the top. 7m of grade 8 onto a square ledge. Or alternatively, climb easy rock about 5m to the left of this, moving up and to the right to reach the same square ledge (7). Climb straight up following the crack for 10m to tree stance.

2. 11m 7 Move to the right onto big block of rock and around the corner 3m and climb in recess to reach sloping grassy ledge 3m. Walk 5m to big tree for belay.

3. 17m 8 Climb the main face behind big tree (at this point climb crosses 'Solo'). Belay at ledge with tree growing out horizontally.

4. 12m 7 Climb up and to the right to final V-shaped recess at top.

Variation: 2a. 10m 10 Climb the steep crack directly above the tree on good grips. Continue straight up to the large ledge. (M. Arsenjevic and D. Peters)

The route takes the vertical crack up the downstream retaining wall of the descent gully downstream of the 'Midnight Sprawl' buttress. Start just up from the start of the descent gully at the start of the crack - cairn.

1. [8] 35m Climb the crack breaking through the roof above and take a stance on the comfortable ledge on top. Be careful on pulling the jug at the outer extremity of the roof as its integrity may be suspect.

Notes: Protection is excellent and the route is easier than it looks. Descend as for 'Midnight Sprawl'.

On reaching the bottom of the scramble gully downstream of the 'Midnight Crawl' buttress, one finds a slab reminiscent of that climb on the downstream side of the gully. The route ascends the crack on the right boundary of the slab - cairn.

1. [8] 40m Climb the slab using the crack on the right for protection. Exit at the top of the slab and move slightly right up the groove to take a comfortable stance next to the tree at the top.

Notes: A good route for its grade. Descend by moving slightly upstream and scrambling down the gully by zigzagging upstream and zagging downstream. At the downstream extremity of each zigzag down climb the groove until the scree slope is reached.

Takes the crack up the centre of the 'Midnight Sprawl' slab - cairn.

1. [8] 40m Climb the centre of the slab using the crack for protection. Climb straight up to take a comfortable stance on top.

Notes: A good route for its grade. Descend as for 'Midnight Sprawl'

Start in the same gully as 'Diverimento', directly above a steep rock incline. To the left of 'Diverimento' is a sub-gully and the climb starts on the buttress to the left of this.

1. 21m 7 Take off and pull up to a ledge at 3m. Traverse left for 10m and then up 8m to a ledge below a smooth face.

2. 15m 8 Traverse left to a grass ledge.

3. 10m 8 Follow an open book keeping to the left of a pinnacle.

Note: Appropriate for a large party of beginners.

The climb lies on the short but clean face on the left between the last two waterfalls and above the deep pool. Scramble 9m to the base of the face at the point directly above the outlet from the pool.

1. [8] 12m

   Start at the centre of the face and ascend past a small tree and then bear diagonally right to a stance behind the large block which has a tree growing against its outer side. Very exposed climbing.

2. 15m 7 At least three routes exist from here: diagonally right, straight up or diagonally left.

Start 10m right of 'Mountain Brew'.

1. 18m 9 Climb the crack-cum-chimney to a ledge on the right at 16m. Either wriggle through thin black chimney or fight the aloes to a stance and tree belay.

2. 25m 8 Continue up the fault until the angle eases. Bear left to the foot of a lichen-covered grey slab which leans back at 15o off vertical.

3. 10m 8 Climb the slab or scramble off in the gully to the right.

The start of this climb is about 185m East of 'Lightning Ravine' and 30m to the right of 'Pinnacle Gully' where a distinct pedestal of rock about 10m high sits out from the base of the krantz.

1. 10m 8 Straight up the front of the pedestal.

2. 25m 8 Start at the foot of a small open chimney leading from the top of the pedestal. A long face is then climbed from the top of the chimney bearing gradually to the right through two cracks, the first being climbed on the outside, the second, near the top of the face, on the inside. The second crack, or chimney, on this pitch is formed by slabs leaning against the face. A stance may be used near its top but a short face after it leads to a good ledge. The top of the face is very exposed and the last chimney somewhat bulging.

3. 14m 8 6m of broken rock leads to the top of the gully coming in from the right. The gully is climbed for 3m where a step out round the corner of a slab leads on to a face where a further 4m leads to a comfortable ledge.

4. 24m ? Climb 6m straight up to top of climb and a further 18m of slope to summit beacon.

Note: The rock is generally sound and belays plentiful.

About 30m west of Natter Gully is a broken buttress inclining upwards to the right. This buttress can be identified by a V-recess on its left, which, in turn is about 10m east of 'Chatter Face'.

The route follows the buttress to the top and may be divided into two or three pitches.

This climb is situated near the east end of the face which runs eastward from Fountain Gully. It commences at the only big tree in this vicinity, left of a big block.

1. [8] 6m

   From tree up onto block, then bearing slightly right to ledge.

2. 18m 9 Traverse left to base of recess with crack. Climb up 11m into chimney (the “Straight Jacket”) and up to big cubby hole.

3. 12m 8 Climb out left and then to top.

The climb commences at the base of a large grey block jutting from the krantz about 150m left of the foot of Saddle Gully, and generally follows the line of a broken ridge.

1. [9] 12m

   Climb on the outside of the block to stance on top of it.

2. 12m 9 Climb recess behind stance and traverse right below an overhang at the top of the recess on to a bushy stance below an aloe filled recess.

3. 22m 8 Up recess through a group of aloes bearing left on to crest of ridge, reaching a large stance by an awkward pull-up.

4. 9m 8 Climb steep recess behind stance.

The start is situated about midway between two large patches of trees and bush at the top of the slope. To the left is a series of red overhanging faces.

1. [6] 10m

   Scramble up amongst loose rock and grass to tree at foot of obvious crack.

2. ?m 8 Ascend crack and climbing out on left onto slab ending in a recess under small overhang.

3. ?m 8 Climb recess ending on top of small pinnacle on right.

4. ?m 8 Scramble up large ledge past cave and traverse to the right to a red slab.

5. ?m 8 Climb slab, then traverse left to some bushes.

6. ?m 8 Climb from bush, then traverse right to short recess leading to the top.

Note: Pitches may be combined and variations made. A direct finish may be climbed instead of traversing right.

Starts 25 to 30m up Short Gully from 'Left Corner'.

1. [9] 23m

   Ease into narrowing vertical chimney on good handholds through overhanging tight section, then 4,5m higher and out of chimney to right and up to good belay on bush.

2. 18m 8 On vertical rock 6m to horizontal crack then traverse left to top stance of 'Left Corner'.

Commences just above swimming pool adjacent to lunch venue.

Route of least resistance is followed until a smooth chimney is reached on the left hand side. This constitutes the first difficult pitch. From there a diagonal face is climbed, bearing right (8) to a prominent pinnacle. The usual route is up this, bearing right, although the face immediately above is interesting. There is plenty of scope for variation.

Situated in Tonquani Kloof in the recess directly opposite the entrance of Cedarberg Kloof. Starts on the right hand side of a bushy ledge about 6m above the stream bed.

1. [7] 23m

   A V-shaped chimney intersected by 3m of vertical rock leads to the first stance under overhanging rock.

2. [6] 14m

   Continue up on left end of stance - 3m steep, the easier rock.

3. [8] 15m

   Up a steep slab with a strong tree near its left corner. Some 3m above the tree traverse to left off slab to good rock belay.

4. [8] 18m

   From left end of stance traverse first diagonally then horizontally on sloping footholds and sparse handholds to a rib about 12m from stance. Climb 3m up on this rib to more sloping rock where rock knobs may be used for belay. This belay is about 14m to left of stance and 6 to 8m higher.

5. [6] 27m

   Climb over easy rock to a short chimney on the right, thence to final beacon.

Note:

The rock is sound all the way and stances big enough for a party of up to seven.

Climbs a very clean, easy-angled recess extending the height of the right hand side of the kloof, about 50m downstream of the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction. Scramble about 30m up from the stream (as for 'Gunfire' ) to where the gully becomes cavernous. Sneak behind chockstones at the back to emerge at the base of the final recess.

1. 45m 8 Climb up in the corner. Move left beneath the roof at the top and continue up to belay on easy ground.

The climb commences about 30m below Boulder Kloof on the left side.

1. [5] 25m

   Traverse diagonally up to the right over a series of ledges for 15m and then move about 9m to the left on grassy ledge to a tree just below a broad rock ledge.

2. [7] 20m

   Climb to this ledge and continue up recessed face to another ledge.

3. [7] 18m

   Straight up to another broad grassy ledge.

4. [7] 22m

   Move left to where a huge flake has split away from the face. Up 3m on side of flake and via a traverse climb on to top of flake.

5. [8] 15m

   From flake move onto main face and continue to top.

20m upstream from the MCSA post, the buttress on the true right is split by a low-angle recess filled with tree routes.

1. [9] XXm Ascend this recess to 4m, and traverse left on a ledge. From the end of the ledge, step left and up onto another ledge and follow the recess to the top, stepping right at the end.

Situated on the line of a deep recess about 110m below a broken bay and almost immediately opposite a small cave on the left of the kloof at ground level. The climb is on the immediate upstream side of a definite rock ridge projecting into the kloof.

1. [6] 23m

   A 2m climb from stream level into niche below overhang. Upwards, bearing to left into depths of recess where crack leads to belay behind tree.

2. [8] 20m

   From first stance ease left to outside edge of recess then upwards on ridge to small band thence to right in exposed position on good flat stance.

3. [8] 37m

   On red rock immediately above bushes behind second stance. A grade 13 variation is possible.

The chimney on the upstream side of the LEAP OF FAITH buttress.

1. 25m 9 Start awkwardly over the first boulder, or burrow under the tree, before employing classic chimney techniques to ascend. Good fun.

Starts directly opposite CEDARBERG CRESCENT.

1. 34m 8 Ascend sloping grey face immediately to right of a large tree and deep crack to foot of dirty gully section. Scramble up gully to top.

Start 40m downstream of the Boulder Kloof meet spot. Start below a prominent right-angled open book with a tree in it about 15m above the start.

1. 30m 8 Start at tree on right below an easy face on left. Ascend 2m up face, traverse left and up recess and crack to tree with exposed roots.

Note: To right of route is a white grassy slab of approximately grade 5 extending to top. This provides an easy ascent or descent route out of the kloof.

Climbs the open book 5m to the left of SCROOGE.

1. 20m 9 Climb the easy groove past a tree to a small ledge. Move right and climb to the top of the crag.

Start 10m to the right of LITTLE MOLAR in extreme right of the small gully (160 paces downstream from meet point).

1. 30m 9 Climb over two brown blocks to gain access to the greyish slabs which are climbed to the foot of the crack. Climb the crack which widens into a chimney. Emerge on the right atop a pile of brown blocks.

Note: Descent gully behind pillar on left or abseil off large tree.

On the right-hand side of the lower kloof, 180 paces downstream from the usual meet point is a 40m pile of smooth brown pillar-like rocks. The climb starts 15m from the stream bed in a crack behind a tree in front of the left-hand pillar.

1. 30m 9 Climb the crack to a ledge with a large block on the right. Move up to the overhang and move left into the chimney (crux). Climb over two chockstones in the chimney then climb to the top of the right hand pillar or surmount the pillar from behind (7).

Descent as for OPUS ONE.

The climb is situated just left of some red overhangs 15m up next to PINNACLE FACE. Start at the upstream end of an avenue of ten trees, 1m above the stream level.

1. 18m 8 Find your way up easy rock to a fair ledge at the base of a large crack running to the top of the krantz.

2. 30m 8 Move up the crack past a tree to a large ledge 5m from the top where the chimney closes in. Move right for 2m then up a small face to the top.

10m upstream of DESPERATION and 5m right of a broken vegetated gully. Walk 10m up from the stream bed through bush to the start of the climb. Start at the tree which touches the face.

1. 25m 8 Climb the sloping face on a series of easy steps, moving right at the start and then straight up. Stance below a vertical tunnel which goes through the rock above.

2. 15m 8 Climb through the tunnel (evidence of use by indigenous population as a longdrop) and emerge to finish on a short face.

An interesting climb, good for beginners. Remains on clean easy rock throughout. Most of the climb is grade 7.

A short on angle slab to the left of the descent gully. The start is guarded by thick shrubbery.

1. 15m 9 Climb up the centre of the slab to the top ledge.

Note: Bad gear.

Starts left of TON UP PLUS in a recess with many roots at its foot. [Just above the 2nd weir.]

1. 30m 9 Climb past the roots to a shelf. Climb either of two possibilities to a tree-filled recess. Finish up any of three scrambles to the top.

Note: Starts well but fades at the top.

Climb the downstream side of the buttress on which IMMACULATE MISCONCEPTION is situated. Start to the right of an easy-looking gully to the right of CALCULUS. [23 pipelengths up from the 1st weir]

1. 38m 9 Climb for 10m on crystallized rock until obliged to step across to the right to a small tree on a commodious ledge. Continue on the setback faces, to the top.

Note: Dodges around a lot. Watch for rope drag.

Starts to the right of BLOCKBUSTER.

1. 30m 9 Fight off the heavy bush at the foot of a grey corner and climb the grey corner and chimney to a ledge at 15m. Move around the bulge to the right and into another chimney. Climb past the chockstone to the top.

Opposite the waterfall gully and 12m upstream of the first weir is a long arête that forms a curved knife-edge at the top, finishing on prominent grey blocks. Start in the grey band of rock below a large tree 15m up.

1. 38m 9 Climb to the large tree, then slightly right up easy rock to a short recess with a prominent chockstone at its head. Surmount the chockstone to a small belay ledge. (The only hard moves are at the start and finish of the pitch.)

2. 25m 7 Stay on the knife-edge to the final blocks.

Note: Good tripper's route.

Start just to the left of SUPERTRAMP on a laid-back slab bounded on the right by stepped overhangs.

1. 10m 7 Climb the grey face to a "pulpit" stance.

2. 33m 9 Continue up the slab to the top. Note: Might be possible on one rope length.

The climb takes the prominent chimney situated just upstream of the descent gully with the water pipe. Follow this pipe up the ramp until next to a large cave. [Upstream of Pipe Ramp]

1. 20m 9 Climb up to the right of the cave onto a ledge. Ascend crack to next ledge and walk into back of chimney. Up chimney to the roof and move out onto the top of a huge detached block.

2. 18m 9 Move right into groove and climb this past a rusty peg to the summit.

Variation:

2 18m 13 Move up and left onto steep exposed slab and continue up to a large flat block. Step right and finish up the arête. (21 Jul 1985 L. Gardiner and T.P. Willmot)

Just upstream of the second weir and left of the buttress with the large leaning capped flake (COMFORTABLY NUMB), is a set-back arête.

1. 30m 9 Climb the obvious fault line to the top, moving left near the top if you wish to avoid a hard move at the summit.

Note: Clean and direct climb.

Starts downstream of OBSCENE GESTURE in a brown recess with a small pinnacle at its right-hand edge. (Alongside pipe No 16 above 1st weir)

1. 30m 9 Start behind the base of the pinnacle. Climb 12m then finish up an easy recess.

Note: Lousy rock. Disappointing.

Begins high up to the right of GOLDEN HIGHWAY, 15m above the stream. Start at a pointed-topped recess on an upstream-facing grey corner. There is a small undercut buttress to the right. [G + 10]

1. 35m 9 Move on to the front face passing behind twin trees, then up grassy ledges to a black face. Climb on small ledges stepped left, then to the top bearing right.

Note: Rather vegetated with one clean grade 9 face at its centre.

Begins in the gully to the left of the black streaks at water level near SQUARE ORANGE. In the gully a horizontal tree grows in front of a cave. [A - 12]

1. 40m 8 Start behind a stamvrug tree. Climb the corner above then the faces to the right of the gully. Don't change down - you can cruise on jugs all the way. End up just left of SQUARE ORANGE.

Downstream of the gully containing PHEASANT PLUCKER is a small tree-choked cave. Start just left of this. [A – 22]

1. 30m 8 Climb the rounded face for 6m to a grassy shelf. Climb the pleasant knobbly face to a small overhang and move right to within a metre of PHEASANT PLUCKER. Climb left past the roots to the top.

This climb ascends the first steep buttress on the left (true right) as one enters the lower kloof. The start lies where the base of the cliff abuts the river edge. The climb starts opposite the lower campsite.

1. 35m 8 Climb the face tending leftward to a vertical crack. Traverse rightward from the crack and then climb the face towards a small overhang. Exit to the right of the overhang and continue to the top of the crag.

The start of this climb is on top of the earth bank immediately opposite the large block above the meeting place. Start at base of chimney.

1. 12m 8 Climb the left hand recess into the chimney, avoiding some loose rock halfway up. Stance in large yellow recess.

2. 22m 9 Climb over nose on left corner of recess (delicate) and diagonally up to the left to a large grassy ledge.

3. 9m 8 Climb the centre of an inclined face immediately above the ledge.

Notes:

1. Easier variations to left can be made for each pitch.

2. Extreme care should be taken not to dislodge rocks as they tend to fall onto the meeting place.

Start at the bottom of the CENTURY CHIMNEY this point can reached by some scrambling which may require use of a rope near the bottom.

1. 15m 7 Traverse right behind large flake to corner or recess which is at the downstream end of the setback face (see CENTURY CRAG).

2. 35m 9 Ascend the corner until an overhang at the top is reached. Traverse right to bypass this and continue the remaining few metres to the top.

Situated on left hand wall of SLAB GULLY follows crack going up wall.

1. 35m 9 Follow crack which peters out after 18m and climb becomes an easy scramble.

The climb starts in a cave-like recess 5m below a group of roots on a brown face which are opposite a large tree growing in the kloof bed (about 30m upstream of STRAIGHT EDGE).

1. 18m 5 Climb up into cave. (This pitch may be slippery in places in wet season).

2. 12m 8 Climb face on left, working back into cleft and eventually chimneying up it.

3. 15m 8 Traverse out to left for 5m and climb up an exposed ridge, finally re-entering the cleft below a large cave.

4. 22m 7 From the back of the large cave traverse outward and upward on the lefthand wall, finally ascending a rough grey face to a stance above the cave.

Situated 3m right of PINNACLE NORTH. Start by scrambling up 4m, at a point as high up the kloof as possible where the upper krantzes lie back in an upper bay. To the right of PINNACLE NORTH is a crack or recess running straight up. (Grey, very rough rock.)

1. 13m 8 Climb 6m up to ledge with big nettle tree. Continue up recess 7m to good tree.

2. 10m 9 Climb up past narrow cubbyhole on awkward holds to big tree.

3. 15m 7 Climb up through hole in roof and scramble to base of next pitch.

4. 10m 8 Climb narrow open book type of chimney, not the easy crack on the left, to good stance. (At this point, climb crosses NETTLE CHIMNEY.)

5. 14m 7 Pass around to the right, under a corner which is of a higher grade, to next recess and climb over chockstones to good tree (10m). Finish by going right again into short chimney to top.

Start right of the obvious arete in the middle of the main wall and climb the arete rock ridge to the anchors. Perma-draws as top anchors.

Climb the attractive face to the left of Cherry Face. Keep up the middle up this easy climb

Take the chimney up the deep black recess to the left of Boomslang Ridge. Exit to the right at the top. This climb is good for novices. The recess at the back of the chimney can be climbed but unfortunately is is dirty with bad rock.

Climb the outside corner left of Belcher.

On the upper band of rock above Maidens Triumph. Climbs up the middle of the slab.

On the upper band of rock above Maidens Triumph. This route climbs the right-hand edge of the smooth slab on the left of a small gully.

Climb the pleasant face situated to the right of Minie.

Follow the left-most line of bolts up the grooves and ledges to where you can reach the lower-offs. A slightly easier variation is found if you deviate 1-2m left after the first bolt.

Up the obvious recess/corner.

Starting at the base of the recess, follow the line of weakness diagonally across under INFORMAL SETTLEMENT’s slab to the crack system to its right. Climb this and use IS’s lower-offs.

About 4m to the right of GOAT CRACK is a small tree. Climb left of tree to ledge, then move up left via crack to a ledge 1m to the right of the cubby hole of GOAT CRACK. Then climb up cracks above to the top.

Start 2m to the left of PURPLE SKY, and continue straight up the crack (with a tree in it) to the top, moving right at the tree.

'Talia' Left hand Variant. Starting in the corner climb up right to the 2nd bolt on 'Talia' & up to the anchors 3m right of the major corner.

'Exodus' Left hand variation. Starts up 'Max' heading diagonally right, crosses 'Talia' & joins 'Exodus' on the long ledge. Finish up just left of the fig tree.

Starts a couple meters left of 'Milou', up generally easy slab to bolted anchor at the base of the obvious arête in the upper part of the cliff.

Starts just left of the tree at the base of 'Crouching Tiger'. Halfway up the face there is a u-bolt anchor before the final crux. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk.

Shorter and easier than 'Milou', stopping before the final crux head wall. Use the 3 bolt anchors to the right on 'Max', or the 2 bolt anchor on 'Don'.

The extension of 'Garfield' to the chains near the sloping block at the very top.

Start just right of 'Mel', following U-bolts up diagonally rightwards then up to anchor.

Traverse up and right following the black mark-ed bolts (and cable!). Start up 2 bolts of 'Als', up another move as for 'Jane', then traverse behind the large tree and across the square ledge. Step up right onto the slab, similar to 'Kaj', and traverse right to the 3 U-bolt anchor at a ledge close to the arête. From here one may rappel/lower off, or bring up a 2nd then do any of the 4 right hand routes on this slabby perched face. Can easily be soloed up or down with the via ferrata but know how to use the via ferrata safely before trying this. The via ferrata becomes way more technical and exposed going around the arête into the gully.

5 meters to the right of the ladder.

The alpine arête between 'True Blue' and 'Wysiwyg', starting just left of and below 'Mellow Yellow' - smaller U-bolts. Go diagonally left towards the arête then up to a ledge at half height. Lower from here (8 bolts) or continue up to the 'Mellow Yellow' anchors

A perfect route to see if you like heights or not. Start 10m right of 'Too Early for the Sky'.