Routen in Oceania für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Very nice.

Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB.

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for 'Cricket Bats in a Box'.

This baby offwidth was possibly first climbed by Bob Craddock.

The left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

The undercut direct start to 'Marshmallow Sea' is definitely a little harder than the original.

Impossible to get lost on.

Starts above the plaque on the north-west side of the crag. It's the obvious wide chimney, that narrows to a crack near the top.

Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow.

Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials.

Up a shallow orange corner left of Prairie, continue direct through steepening and onward forth to walk off ledge. May have some suss rock, vegetation and lichen.

Corner with ledge at half-height on south-east facing wall around left from 'Serious Young Lizards'.

Completes the trilogy of nice easy climbs in this area. Think of it as an indirect start to 'Predator'. Step off the 'Mesa' boulder and head up right to the airy arete. Continue steeply over the right side of the roof and up juggy groove to ledge. The 'Mesa' rap anchor is just to the left.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Tiresias'.

1. 12m (7) To ledge then R up ramp.

2. 23m (7) L, over crux bulge and into chimney to finish.

The squeeze chimney. 'Classic'. Start R of T.

The first climb done in the Organ Pipes. A very pleasant outing. Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.

1. 20m (7) Follow crack, or face just left of crack, up buttress to ledge and the former location of a plaque to climbing pioneer Bob Craddock (who died in a car accident).

2. 25m (6) Step up and right around to the front of buttress and up to belay left of big tilted boulder.

3. 10m (8) Up short wall just left of boulder then up flaring chimney. An alternative to this pitch is to traverse left for 3 metres above the void and then climb the steep wall 7 metres left of the chimney. Optional fourth pitch is grade 10: From big ledge climb steep wall on right and finish up a crack on the left of the pinnacle. No one seems to do this these days but it is quite good.

Deep crack on left side of Conifer Crack buttress, in the gully. Take some large gear.

Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks. Start 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).

1. 40m (9) Slabby thin crack on left side of buttress to ledge. Step right and pull through bulge then straight up to huge ledge.

2. 40m (9) Behind are twin V cracks up the right side of the buttress. It is usual to move straight up from the ledge and then move across right and climb the right-hand crack but either crack is OK. An optional third pitch is to climb the blade of rock at the end of the second pitch.

This is quite a good chimney and the rap anchor lets you avoid the cruddy finish. Start below the next buttress right of the Didgeridoo Pipe. Scramble up 6 metres into the gully on the left of the buttress then traverse right until below the chimney. Climb up into the chimney and follow it (originally climbed up the left edge of the chimney for a bit) past the roof on the left. Belay on left about 5 metres above the roof at chains. 30 metre abseil or continue up crud to the top.

Start at base of mossy ramp and follow left sloping crack 2 1/2 metres left of 'Ann', Finish up left face of the bulge

Start at mossy ramp as for 'Falling Upwards'. Move right at top of ramp to join large obvious crackline.

Up, then L on ledges. Finish up black crack in upper L wall.

Start: Start 1 m R of 'Strife on the Gravy Train'.

This climb is on the north -east face of the buttress. One metre to the right of Past & Present.

Bottomless crack 3m R of Charity at the R crack.

Climb the crack, step left on to face and up.

Start: Scramble up past 'Treachery' to next buttress.

A separate buttress 15m right of Purity and 3m right of Clemency. Climb the most left hand line. (Most likely same buttress as Heatherbell ). A low angled climb with the crux being the first moves off the ground on grey rock. Requires RPs to protect the initial moves,

Slab and bulge at right end of slabby terrace. Continue up yellow tinged corner.

Scramble down and around the corner left of ETGZ. Start left of right arete. Up and step left onto 'emohawk'. Then up slabby arete.

The major skanky diagonal cleft.

Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof. Start on the next buttress uphill from Morfydd, at a chimney with a square roof.

This bit of rock is getting more crowded than High Dive Gully. It would be surprising if any of the climbing is new.

Start up Kincaid then cross to steep juggy crack on the right wall. From the big ledge (belay possible) climb past the No Standing chains then centrally up headwall.

Probably the most descended route at Arapiles (by abseilers using Ali's rap anchor). May also be the least ascended. Start 5m L of Ali's.

Start: Start 2m R of FoF.

Up Loboff till the start of the traverse, then up left through funky bulge.

An easy pitch for parties wanting to get from Kestrel to Flinders Lane without an increase in grade.

From the belay at the top of the first pitch, step right and climb up right a couple of metres to a ledge system. Walk right across the mossy ledge system to the corner on the final pitch of Yo Yo and follow this to Flinders Lane. Make sure to place a good directional runner after the traverse.

1. 24m (8) Follow Phoenix for 8 metres to thread runner then out right and up past all 'Highway' 8 sign to shallow corner. Up to ledge.

2. 25m (9) Gain the line just to the right and up to crawl through hole to ledge.

3. 30m (9) Traverse 6 metres left to crack and up this to big ledge.

4. 20m (8) Walk 12 metres left and up tricky wall to right end of Flinders Lane.

A way to the top of the cliff. Unfortunately it breaks down very quickly into an unpleasant gully.

20m (8) From the right end of Flinders Lane, climb a juggy corner into a chimney. Belay on second ledge. 45m (4) Up the chimney-gully.

A gentle romp that could serve as an alternative start to The Dribble.

Up the Pan Grove slab to whitish blocks at 15m. Instead of moving right (as for Pan Grove), continue following the left-leaning groove. When the groove peters out, step slightly right and finish in the obvious groove. Note: the steep bulging crack on the right is lovely to start, but the finishing blocks are a bit dodgy. Belay on the Senior Citizens terrace and descend Pan Grove.

Sit start and mantle the small bloc right side and opposite NE face.

Same sit start position as Tiger Tail Left moving right and up.

Quality mantle sitting start at overhanging rear section of bloc between detached block and small tree moving up and left.

A hybrid route between Llareggub and The Flue.

1. 23m As for The Flue – the major chimney left of the grotto. Belay at pre-existing rap station.

2. 12m Up steepening prow, past left side of roof, to another rap station, as for the easy top of Llareggub that no-one does anymore.

3. 10m Easily to top of pinnacle for spectacular views. Descend north side of pinnacle into Pan Grove.

Gets more atmospheric the higher you go. Takes the north ridge of Deadpoint Wall. Start below the U-shaped gully behind Death Row Pinnacle.

1. 40m Climb clean rock on left side of the usually-dry little waterfall. Continue easily up and left to base of ridge.

2. 20m Up to short orange corner, step right onto prow of ridge, and up easily to big ledge.

3. 15m Bridge line 2m left of steep orange corner, and continue up nice wall on left side of the ridge to the big terrace.

Orange streak 10 metres right of 'Blockwork Orange'. Finish up crack in headwall.

5 metres right of Howling. Start as for 'Laurel and Hardy' directly under the rap chains. Thereafter take left leaning crease in rock and the easiest left line to the pinnacle summit.

Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.

1. 43m (8) Up the buttress to a small ledge. Continue on steeper rock to another small ledge. Step off right side of ledge (straight up is grade 14) then up to a ledge below a short gully.

2. 15m (4) Up the gully to a large ledge. Continue up to the next ledge, the Tennis Court.

3. 20m (8) From the top of the pedestal, climb the tricky weakness left of the red overhang. Belay on the first good ledge.

4. 23m (7) Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap then up to summit.

Not great.

Some distance down right are low-angled mossy faces with ledges in between. Scramble up to deep, right-facing chimney. This is your mission should you choose to accept it.

Best approached by one of the other climbs in the vicinity. Step across the tree-filled gully behind the top of South Pacific etc, follow the weakness in the wall and finish centrally up the juggy tower.

The easiest slab at Arapiles(?). Could be done as an approach pitch to Long John Silver. Climbs central weakness in the slab around right from Blackbeard. Scramble up to start. Gentle slab split by a juggy crack.

Clean black slab right of 'Heckle'.

Nice rock, nice moves, brilliant nut pro. With that many superlatives it's gotta be worth a star, right?

Start: Start right of 'No Turning Back'.

A short way downhill from Sheer Ecstasy Wall on the same side of the creek is a small wall. At the start there are two left leaning parallel cracks that merge about halfway up. Take the right hand crack. This has a bouldery start. To the top. Good pro and an easy walk off.

... of depravity. A spelunking expedition through the bowels of the cliff. Climb into the chimney past the beginning of Open Road and A Bridge Too Far and just keep on going. Easy chimney climbing with a dodgy flake system for gear leads to a good belay above massive chockstones. Some of the poorest rock you'll find at the Mount, not a classic. Turns out to be a variant start to Hunting For Swedish Fish (in Cheops Buttress area).

Useless. Twin cracks 5 metres left of Trampled Underfoot.

Nice line and rock but still a little shrubby. From the top of this it is a short scramble to the base of 'Mentor' so Kermit/Mentor/The Protege could provide an interesting outing.

Start: Start 30 m L of 'Wedding Tackle'.

Middle of left wall into shallow corner. Exit left

Bridge up groove at back of alcove, swing left onto large flake.

Obvious left diagonal to thin crack

A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner.

Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree, as for the first pitch of Introductory Route.

2. 35m (8) Move right and up a little crack then follow prominent right-leading diagonal to a spectacular ledge on the arete. Note that the climb originally climbed the latter part of this pitch out right near the arete, now included in the second pitch of Xena.

3. 35m (8) A mildly terrifying step across the void leads to easy climbing diagonally right. A few tricky moves then lead to a comfortable ledge below the big corner, with DRB.

4. 25m (6) Up corner to next ledge or carry on up the next pitch.

5. 25m (9) Up corner which finishes with a few rounded layback moves, then continue up little wall and belay on terrace.

From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11.

Follows the chimney-corner bounding the left edge of the left Watchtower face after starting up Hot Flap's first pitch, then the chimney-gully forming the left side of the Siren buttress.

A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible, especially in the middle section; yes they have already been climbed. Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section (Pumping), and 9m R of Watchtower Chimney.

1. (40m, 8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. (The first ascent traversed all the way to the right arete before climbing bulge).

2. (21m, 8) Either climb up left of the belay or climb just right of the crack until below bulge and then step left over the crack. Belay on narrow ledge below overhang on left side of The Watchtower.

3. (14m, 9) Either climb straight up veering slightly right, or traverse right on smooth rock past ancient piton before moving right. Belay in a good cave on the right side of the buttress.

4. (30m, 8) Move left out of cave and up exhilarating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

A very popular variant on Arachnus, but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three.

1. 40m (8) Arachnus p1.

2. 12m (8) Up smooth wall just right of crack, traverse right, then up to small ledge below juggy crack through overhang.

3. 23m (9) Up crack, then balance carefully right (poor protection) for 4 metres. More easily up to cave belay.

4. 30m (8) Arachnus p4.

This pleasant, easy crack midway between The Clown and 'Court Jester' was probably first soloed by Louise to get access to the top of School For Scandal during her massive cleaning exercise.

Another long ramble, about half of which are bits of existing climbs.

1. 40m Climb A Whale of a Time until level with the big terrace on the right. Step left and belay on the shoulder of the ridge.

2. 25m Diagonally left to the base of the left-leaning line (the right-hand line is Court Jester – steep and loose).

3. 25m Up left-leaning line, to finish steeply up right wall – highlighted by a classic mantelshelf and incut jugs.

4. 20m Easily up ridge to terrace.

5. 30m As for 5th pitch of Beau Geste.

A great adventure.

Start below major chimney on left side of cliff.

Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.

1. 50m (9) Up wall then chimney to terrace.

2. 13m (9) Just to the right is a short, right-facing corner. Up this and step right to belay.

3. 18m (9) Up righthand V-corner to roof. Move left under roof then step right and up to ledge.

4. 25m (9) 'Diagonal' up right (as for Tale Of Woe) to huge terrace.

5. 30m (7) Pull onto wall right of undercut arete, traverse right and go up on horizontal breaks approximately 6 metres right of arete. At ledge, move left and up. The fingery wall just right of the arete is Court Jester's finish.

A popular outing following the prominent diagonal line. Not really sure that it warrants a star though.

1. 30m (8) Follow the major left-leading diagonal from the terrace until it ends. Belay on ledge past first little cave.

2. 25m (9) Diagonally right, passing large roofs on the right, finishing over a little bulge.

3. 30m (7) As for the final pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

Takes the low angled groove at right end of wall. Shares anchor with I am a Banana Expert.

Looks quite pleasant despite the odd small shrub. Was upgraded to 15 in Carrigan guide; someone must have strayed onto the then unclimbed Maiden Voyeur!

Start: There is a small square chipped in the rock at the base of the route.

Not without merit, despite the long scrambling start. Start about 50 metres left of Leaden Echo below black and orange buttress.

1. 35m (8) Potter up the easy-angled ground for about 15m until a corner leads up and can move around right onto righthand face. Follow line left past little roof to small stance above arete.

2. 35m (8) Around the steepening and follow the flake (could extend the previous pitch to top of flake and belay level with ceiling of Fiddler On The Roof) . From the centre of the wall go up and slightly left.

Classic, square-cut corner starting dirctly behind small pine. Finish up easy ground above corner.

Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.

Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit.

Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle.

Up streak and continue straight on.

Start: About 1m left of 'The First Kiddy Climb' and a bit lower is a orange streak in the middle of black.

Sorry kids, but these 2 routes are the complete pox left of the unclimbed grotty corner at the left end of the wall of Mermaid Ave

Not destined for greatness, but when you are only 8 and 10 years old putting up a route is exciting.

Start: 1m left of the chimney/corner (unclimbed)

Delightful doddle.

Start: Start just right of 'Stone Age' up to right leaning flake

Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for Menagerie followed this line but the original Menagerie description clearly places it further right. Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting).

Start right of largest conifer. Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left.

The huge slabby corner which is essentially the approach ramp for 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'.

Shabby left wall of broken corner immediately left of 'Winterset'. 'Contrived' up middle of slab to finish just left of roof.

Doesn't look much but has easy climbing on superb rock. Start as for Youth In Asia.

1. 15m (8) Climb up a couple of metres to join the traverse-line of The Bishop's Crook and move right and up the wall to ledge as for that climb.

2. 25m (9) Follow the easy ramp on the right for about 10 metres until below the first direct line of weakness. Go straight up the steep wall.

Takes prominent ramp on the wall left of Guiding Light. Essentially provides an easier finish to He Certainly Is. Start in the gully uphill from The Bishop’s Crook.

1. 18m Up nice grey wall opposite Guiding Light, with a step right 3-4m up. Belay on big ledge.

2. 14m Short crack, then follow right-trending ramp to the base of the prominent corner.

3. 18m Climb the shorter (and easier) corner on the right, then trend up right to top-out where Guiding Light finishes.

Traverse left and up through a wide crack.

Start: Start 5 metres up and right of "Armageddon" at initials "HB"

Chimney-crack 2 metres left of "Prelate".

Face 1 metre left of 'The Priest'

The crack at the left end of the wall has a tricky move at half-height.

Start: Start 5 metres left of "Deacon's Dilemma".

Good rock. Takes the prominent prow 30 metres down left of Mason's Apron. There's a small, chipped mark near the ground.

1. 27m (10) Either climb the ramp from the right, or direct up a tricky seam to a small ledge under the overhang. Go 3 metres left then gain main, left-facing corner and go up.

2. 8m (5) Romp to the top.

Space filler.

Climb short crack 1 metre right of Exodus to ledge then the chimney-gully on the left side of the Salem wall.

Start 3m left of 'First Noel'.

Up the line to a left facing corner. Move left onto the slab and up avoiding the corner to finish up a crack/groove.

Start: A few metres left of Ode to 'Mistletoe' and about 4m right

of a large old conifer.

Up groove. At halfway ledge cross over gully and finish steeply up wide crack on left.

Start: Start at groove on left side of face about 12-13 metres left of pinnacle. Inital S (don\'t get on 'Sundowner' by mistake).

Short, orange corner 15m L of 'Little Ripper', then L to grey, L-facing corner. Up this to tree.

Start in the centre of the pinnacle up and left of Zorba, about 3 metres left of Leprechaun. Up the face just right of the corner to big horizontal then up central crack. Roped scramble off back necessary.

Takes the major right-facing corner that starts from the ledge 25 metres up the cliff.The first pitch is rubbish but the corner is superb. Originally graded 9.

1. 25m (-) Ascend rubbishy face to ledge below corner.

2. 25m (11) The excellent right-facing corner with a tough start.

Rubbishy corner just left of chimney to ledge. Finish up face-crack.

Summerday-style classic. Six metres right of 'Ghoulies'. Juggy line with the left kink at the end.

North and approximately 45m directly uphill from the Mini 'Castle Crag' is this wall. This corner climb is situated about 12m right of the large cave. Marked by white square.

Best access to top as well as an easy down climb.

Five metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. 'Escape' off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top.

Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top.