Begehungen von Scorpion

A bit awkward. Glorious position though

All about the position.

Dam, should of taken bigger than a 3. What a position! Frothing! (Drew led scorpion direct to get up)

Scariest climb I’ve ever done, pulled on a drawer to get around the void and up the chimney

One of the best climbs I have done in Araplies. Fantastic lead by Jack Leerson and hats off to him for holding on even after being hit by a bird flying out in fright from a hole in the wall! The exposed start makes for a exhilarating time and a frightening belay too. Will be back to lead it.

What a fight. To date I've not put so much into a climb. An intimidating start over a beautiful drop lead to a very trutchy chimney in which I very seriously questioned my choices.

My reward for beating the chimney was being hit in the head by a bird leaving the crack. Started up the fist jamming section and what a great way to learn your first fist jam. Awesome sustained jamming, but bring multiple 3s and 4s or you will be left to bump your way up like a clown.

Rak demonstrated some beautiful seconding on the way up.

Such an incredible route! Intimidating bottomless chimney start off the belay ledge into some great crack climbing above nice big gear with bomber fists, all with the amazing exposure makes this my favourite route here so far

absolute terrifying start into the bottomless chimney. quite stiff for the grade. feet were sweating and slipping in the chimney, overgripped when i heard the sound of hollow stacked rocks and continued to the sustained crack near the top out. so so fun!!

Actually fell off trying to start too low (from in Scorpion Corner rather than stepping off the ledge), then did it right. A proper adventure. Awkward sized crack for me - wide hands, small fists. Could have used another 2-3 #3 cams. Just shuffled instead. Classicsville.

Felt like I was back in the States! Mad American granite vibe.

We originally set out for the watchtower but were quickly and easily swindled into heading up the bluffs with some mates. Next thing we knew we were scrambling and squirming our way on the approach to blockbuster ledge (great fun in its own right!)

Finding ourselves in a mild, breezy and exposed position we knew it was on, and when my heart jumped out of my throat and landed in Scorpion, I could only whimper and dutifully follow. I felt happy to have some previous bottomless chimney experience in Death Row and Oceanoid… As per usual, I survived the ordeal with a right dose of singing. In the upper gloriousness I found my reasonably-sized forearms useful in tackling the unreasonably-sized fist crack.

Instead of oiling the vocal chords, Imogen opted for more practical beta with the head jam. Way to treat the new helmet I traded! Apparently it worked because she made it to the top.

Upon reaching the summit’s classic views, we could only laugh at the crowded watchtower carpark, and at the surrounding rain squalls that appeared from nowhere (only unleashing upon our arrival back at the pines). It also made me think - sometimes the best decisions in life are orchestrated by others.

It’s very cool to bring meaning to a line that’s caught my eye every time I’ve travelled past. In summary, a real stunner and every bit the adventure-I’ll-never-forget I hoped for!

Bit of an epic to end the trip. I didnt extend gear in the back of the chimney well enough, created a drag monster, and had to make it into two pitches, but bringing jemma up to clean the bottom. Needless to say this took a while, and wasnt ideal, but an excellent adventure and what a spot to finish a trip.

What a climb! abit of everything for your trifle bouge

Very good adventure, the fist crack up high was magical

I was very intimidated in the chimney and really struggled but pulled through. The rest is just a pleasure. What a route!

My wee mitts couldn't fill the void so I opted for the ol' double gaston. Chimney at the start was funky as!

Words cannot express this climb. Completely enthralled in the climb is all I can say... No other thoughts or feelings, just the urge to fight upwards. The best exposure on a climb I've ever felt. This is probably the best climb I've ever done.

Felt pretty easy

Had seconded this route the previous year. Came back for the lead. Potentially the most outrageous position at the mount when you're elbows deep in the crack with the wind howling around bluff major. Grade 18 purely for committing off the ledge and into the bottomless chimney.