Hilfe

Mother Earth

  • Bewertungskontext: AU
  • Fotos: 4
  • Begehungen: 89

Zugang: Sunnyside Ridge closure until safe

The whole road will be closed for a long while due to "damage to mining infrastructure" underneath

Siehe Details & Diskussionen zur Warnung

Erstellt vor 8 Monaten - Bearbeitet vor 6 Monaten
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AU

Saisonalität

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Übersicht

Enormous roof over a creek featuring extremely overhanging cracks. Beautiful and secluded area.

Einschränk. übernommen von Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area

Formerly State Forest, now managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE STATE CONSERVATION AREA https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-state-conservation-area-plan-of-management-220570.pdf

Zustieg

Located in the Newnes State Forest. Exact location best kept through word of mouth for the keenest.

Ethik übernommen von Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Tags

Routen

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Schwierigkeitsgrad Route

Amazing steep line following the crack where the roof of the cave joins the wall. Stickclip and Batman 4m to DUB anchor on ledge avoiding damaging vegetation. Climb steep corner on jugs and small crimps and follow crack under roof. Exit roof and follow easy crack for few meters. Downclimb and back clean, no anchors.

Erstbegehung: Jacques Beaudoin, 16 Sep 2020

Gorgeous and impossible looking line. Absolute world-class classic. Batman on fix rope to start DUB anchor. Stout start at finger lock in horizontal break below anchor, progress steep terrain on pinkie locks, flairy hand jam, pinch, etc to double crimp. Enter wild crux through 60deg overhang with four consecutive finger locks, crimp, pocket, small dynos, etc to uncomfortable rest in break. From there it's easy gr26 but so good to under roof. Climb easy but very exposed roof to tricky exit gr23. Walk off with a smile. Cleaning is best by climbing it again to DUB anchor under roof, clean roof and lower from anchor clean gear to start anchor.

Please be careful with cams, although the rock is solid enough and immaculate for fingers , cams could damage this gem particularly in the crux section. Don't use cams in the finger locks, protect crux in crack above crimps and run it out. Protection is great in smaller sizes where fingers wont fit.

Erschliesser: Jacques Beaudoin

Erste freie Begeh.: Jacques Beaudoin, 2 Mai 2021

Open project, this is the ground up direct start of Mother Earth. Partially cleaned, rock is of lower quality and quite moist looking, angle in excess of 70deg with no feet on bad finger locks. The stronger ones should at least give it a go and potentially make it happen?

Erschliesser: Jacques Beaudoin

Closed project in the crack system on the wall to the right of Mother Earth crack. Start anchor is on top of a hanging grass curtain. Very hard and steep trad supplemented with two bolts followed by 70deg 4m bolted roof.

Erschliesser: Jacques Beaudoin, 1 Mär 2021

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Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Autor(en): Simon Carter

Datum: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Autor(en): Simon Carter

Datum: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

Inhalt teilen

Mo 29 Mai
Finde heraus, was in Mother Earth passiert.

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