Begehungen von Titan

Progress! Sent the first crux clean from the beginning to where the next hard bit starts. Everything after that was seeping so just had a casual aid look.

We only had mother earth rack (which isn't much!) so I only got to sample the first crux. Every move I did was some combination of jam and kneebar, which in other words means "awesome"!

Backlogging. 2nd shot today, 4th total. This time the crack was proper sopping wet, and rather terrifying to lead. I placed a few bits of gear on the Send, but most was insitu. Really wanted to do this properly (placing all gear) but just didn't feel comfortable given that this thing was actually running with water. Maybe at a later date . Aside from the wetness, the thugginess of this thing suits me.

Backlogging. 2 Shots. Broke a footer in the final metres of the roof on link on the 2nd shot and fell off... d'oh! Not the best rock, and a little bit underwhelming to look at from the ground... but it climbs really well!!! Burly, beastly, and gymnastic. A tad damp today, but if you can get it in the dry, it's well worth your time.

physced getting this one done,seen 3 different ways to climb the hard section but no specific way is easier than the other, good honest climbing

After taking an absolute monster whipper into a tree off the very final move (and the ensuing jumar to get back on and then down climbing the whole route to get the gear back) I managed to haul my very tired self through the belly of the beast, around the corner, and to the top of the scary flake where the route ends. I placed all the gear on lead except for one semi-stuck and easy to place wire at the start, which was the compromise to allow for safely and efficiently cleaning the route each time. A very very good process. I think it could be 25 but also 27 depending on how tall/short you are and a whole bunch of other factors, so we’ll leave it at 26 until someone tells us otherwise. Radness! (x2)

FFA. FFA Redpoint as a warm up on third day on, four shot total

One semi-abortive attempt today as I was still oh so wrecked from Bungonia. Pulled through the first crux okay but lost any semblance of core tension on the traverse. Damn! Amazing to watch and belay Jacques on the FA though!!

Second day on the monster. First real attempts and actually worked out all the moves. Took some fairly substantial whippers which was rad. High point into the man crux. Very very keen. (x2)

Just one attempt up this wild line. Battled choss and dampness and fear, a full value trad climbing experience.