The Devils Circus Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. The Devils Circus 18 routes in Sector

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Saisonalität

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -33.537242, 150.295930

Beschreibung

A cave that has some great steep climbing, with a couple of less steep routes on the left. An excellent destination in its own right.

As always, keep packs, belayers and spectators clear of rockfall. Even the most well trafficked routes at this crag still have loose, fragile or hollow rock.

Einschränkungen

Any rescues at this area are going to be problematic due to the steep access via rungs. Make an effort to stick clip first bolts and watch for loose rock and skulls. The popularity of this area means we all must do our best to reduce our environmental impact. Stick to established tracks, don't leave rock cairns or other track markings (it's already obvious!). Shit at home or at the servo on the way to the crag - not in the canyon. This is a National Park so absolutely no dogs, no smoking and no camp fires. Even if it's winter. NO FIRES. NO DOGS. Our ongoing access to this area is not guaranteed and depends on us looking after the place.

übernommen von Bell Supercrag

Ethik

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

übernommen von Blue Mountains

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ PHM3 Short, ugly looking route on the left end of the cave. Actually climbs quite well. Very well bolted! Erstbegehung: Martin Pircher, 2013	24	Sport 10m, 6
2		Megs 28 Megan has sent this after a long term siege. 27/28? Still waiting for the name and grade. Erste freie Begeh.: Megan Turnbull. Erschliesser: Megan Turnbull.	28	Sport
3		★★ False Prophet (aka Neighbour of Doom) Boulder start in the cave immediately left of Circle of Doom. Heads right at top to share last bolt and anchors with its neighbour. Erstbegehung: steve grkovic	26	Sport 10
4		★★ Circle of Doom Awesome climb of mixed styles. Can seep after long periods of rain. Erste freie Begeh.: Megan Turnbull, 2009	26	Sport 15m, 8
5		★★ The Dark Hour of Reason R of COD. A sustained and crimpy start then easier head wall on amazing rock. Good climbing. Erste freie Begeh.: megan turnbull, 2009	27	Sport 15m, 8
6		★★ Cavern Fever Right of TDHOR. Hard start if you are short but nice after that. Erste freie Begeh.: lloyd wishart, 2010	27	Sport 18m
7		★★ Gods Forgotten Brother Unfortunately a very difficult start has to be contended with before you can enjoy the fun and sustained climbing through the roof and up the attractive headwall. Erste freie Begeh.: Steve Grkovic, 2010	28	Sport 20m, 8
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
8		★ Perch, Search and Lurch Starts from the stone pyramid at the back of the cave. Generally steep and pumpy climbing, but with a very hard sequence off the halfway ledge, aptly named. Erste freie Begeh.: lloyd wishart, 2009	28	Sport 18m, 11
9		Fast Forward the Future Shares the same first bolt as Perch, Search, Lurch, then right to underclings in the ceiling and a crux sequence that has repelled many. Great steep climbing to the anchors. May be an easy tick if you are adept at toe-hooks or unusually tall. Erste freie Begeh.: Steve Grkovic, 2011	31	Sport 17m, 8
10		Victim of Imagination The direct start to FFTF. The twin underclings in the roof look V11... Erschliesser: Steve Grkovic		SportProjekt 17m, 8
11		★★★ Mr Fast Forward (Link-Up) A link of the Mr Redeemer start to the 5th? bolt then traverse a rad ironstone break into the upper crux of Fast Forward The Future. Erstbegehung:	29	Sport
12		★★★ Mr Redeemer Steep and ultra sustained roof climbing with long moves. One of the most immaculate roof climbs in the Blueys. Has permadraws for bolts 2-6 (Oct 2021). Erste freie Begeh.: Steve Grkovic, 2009	27	Sport 18m, 10
13		★★★ Epsilon Asylum The hard and confusing start has deterred many but stick with it as good value climbing is the reward above. The sustained top headwall crux will have your arms screaming but your face smiling. Erste freie Begeh.: Steve Grkovic, 2009	27	Sport 18m, 10
14		★★★ Zodiac Youth Good all the way, with a hard start and finish. Once you have a draw on the last bolt, most people find it easier to skip the awkwardly placed 2nd to last bolt. Can be linked into the top of SBA to give an easier finish (about 27-if you can get off the ground). Erste freie Begeh.: steve grkovic, 2010	29	Sport 18m
15		★★ Space Between Atoms A popular and sustained climb. Low first crux and sustained top half, a little slice of Nowra. Erste freie Begeh.: steve grkovic, 2010	30	Sport 16m, 8
16		★★★ La Nina A long move at the second bolt, then superb climbing to a bouldery crux. Be prepared to get frustrated if you are trying this one during a La Niña weather pattern. Erste freie Begeh.: steve grkovic, 2011	29	Sport 15m, 7
17		★ Justifiable Actions Short, with a bouldery mid-height crux and potential to fall off the finish. Erste freie Begeh.: steve grkovic, 2012	26	Sport 10m, 6
18		★ Random and Unusual Fusion Shares the same anchor as JA. A sustained and fun route: yes, you can get pumped in just 10m! As of 27/8/17 the large shale jug at the second bolt ripped off and the pinned edge is moving. Please don't climb until fix. Erste freie Begeh.: steve grkovic, 2011	26	Sport 12m, 6

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop
24		★	PHM3	Sport 10m, 6
26		★★	Circle of Doom	Sport 15m, 8
		★★	False Prophet (aka Neighbour of Doom)	Sport 10
		★	Justifiable Actions	Sport 10m, 6
		★	Random and Unusual Fusion	Sport 12m, 6
27		★★	Cavern Fever	Sport 18m
		★★★	Epsilon Asylum	Sport 18m, 10
		★★★	Mr Redeemer	Sport 18m, 10
		★★	The Dark Hour of Reason	Sport 15m, 8
28		★★	Gods Forgotten Brother	Sport 20m, 8
			Megs 28	Sport
		★	Perch, Search and Lurch	Sport 18m, 11
29		★★★	La Nina	Sport 15m, 7
		★★★	Mr Fast Forward (Link-Up)	Sport
		★★★	Zodiac Youth	Sport 18m
30		★★	Space Between Atoms	Sport 16m, 8
31			Fast Forward the Future	Sport 17m, 8
?			Victim of Imagination	SportProjekt 17m, 8