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Devil's Work Wall

  • Bewertungskontext: AU
  • Fotos: 2
  • Begehungen: 20
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AU
20

Saisonalität

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Beschreibung

The section of 80m high cliff line 50m south and below the main Celebrity Crag areas - and 400m north of The Birdcage.

Einschränk. übernommen von Celebrity Crags

This is a shared use area with local residents and visiting bushwalkers. Don't spoil the place.

ACANSW has been advised by Blue Mtns City Council that car parking congestion along Burton St on weekends and pubic holiday periods is an access concern. Residents are lobbying Council to "solve" this issue and it is in climber's best interests to try and limit the amount of cars parked on Burton Street. Carpool if you can, walk or ride a bike if you are a local, park further away to spread out the congestion - Wombat Street is empty and only 100m away. Whatever you do, please don't park across driveways, party in the carpark, dump rubbish or otherwise make the residents life unpleasant.

Zustieg

Follow the tourist track downwards from the main Celebrity Crags' areas until it bottoms out and starts heading south past a wet section of rock and along the base of the big cliffs. About 50m along this flat section the track squeezes through a narrow rock slot. The Devil's Work starts just before this slot, underneath a big section of roofs.

Abstieg

From cliff top walk 50m east (rock cairns) and spot the rock pagoda which forms a natural tourist lookout across a narrow gully to the north. Scramble down into the overgrown gully (pink string on trees marking trail) and up the other side, arriving on the right side of the pagoda. Follow the tourist track back up the hill.

Ethik übernommen von Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Geschichte

Grafik zur historischen Entwicklung

Any old routes in this area? Please add them if you know more!

Tags

Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route
1 19 40m
2 2 7m
3 20 15m
4 19 30m

Quite the traversity. An airy steep multi-pitch sport route which stays in the shade until 2pm. Due to the tourist track running underneath this route keep an eye on knocking off loose rock on the 2nd and 4th pitches and avoid doing the route during busy holiday periods (xmas/easter etc). The first three pitches can be done by themselves and is choss free (35m rap back to ground). Bring 16 draws and a couple of single length runners.

  1. 40m (19) Slab up the wall with a left trend to the big horizontal break underneath the huge roof. Scuttle hard left for 15m then finish up nice purple face. Pull on the hanging short rope to avoid an unpleasant mantle onto the shale ledge. 14 bolts. You can bail left from here by walking off along ledge and around to tourist track.

  2. 7m (2) Crawl right along shale slot to large ledge belay. There is a fixed rope across this currently. Belay off single bolt and low first lead bolt on next pitch.

  3. 15m (20) Steep wall and slabby corner to sweet ledge belay. 6 bolts. 35m rap from here (70m rope doubled) makes it to the ground.

  4. 30m (19) Right and up steep wall with sections of shale and looseness. Be very careful not to knock anything off onto track below. 9 bolts. Belay on top of cliff (no rap back down possible from top). To exit walk 50m east (rock cairns) and spot the rock pagoda which forms a natural tourist lookout across a narrow gully to the north. Scramble down into the overgrown gully (pink string on trees marking trail) and up the other side, arriving on the right side of the pagoda. Follow the tourist track back up the hill.

Erstbegehung: Heath Black & Paul Frothy Thomson, 16 Dez 2017

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Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Autor(en): Simon Carter

Datum: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Autor(en): Simon Carter

Datum: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

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Sa 27 Mai
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