Routen in Marchant's Canyon Crags

Steep, burly and traddy. Bolted roof and trad protected steep flake crack just above the start of the fixed rope traverse across to Highlander. #0.75 Camalot protects crux on lip of roof - and the rest of the flake is protected by a single rack of finger/fist sized cams and medium/large wires. Save a #0.3 Camalot for vital shallow placement just below the top bolt. Rap anchor at top.

Undercut corner halfway along the sketchy rope traverse to Waylander rap point. Use the rung to belay from (don't rust the old fixed rope). If the bottom of the route is running with water use the rung to get onto wall.

Starting on far left of wall just right of handover rope. Boulder up under roof, reach through to big jug on arete. Bouldery sequence to ledge. Traverse left and up as it steepens into the technical crux. If that goes well, make your way up and left, navigating around the huge flake feature and final big move to top out. 10 bolts to lower off.

Pouncy low roof, sloper crux, traverse left then cool hanging corner, arete and a baffling final move. 10 bolts to lower off.

Closed project. Low roof, then underclings to jug. Hard to right edge of the break, the step right via a mono into about four bodylengths of sustained, super hard face climbing. 9 bolts to lower off.

Three distinct boulder problems. So good! 6 bolts to lower off.

Big move off undercling down low and huck to monster jug rail. Past hole to right side of rooflet. Up on edges to ledge and final wall to top out. Dynamic climbing. 9 bolts to lower off.

Bouldery first half to break, followed by two hard dynos that probably favour a decent wingspan. Tom declined to grade this but climbed it in a couple of tries.

Farthest right route being the first encountered when walking from via ferrata. Tricky face climbing up to roof, then crux reach through roof. Likely to be impossible if you're shorter than 175cm. Anchors under roof mean you can do the first section as a 3 star 25.

Excellent trad pitch with a great mix of styles. Start 3m left of Kaizen at ramp/flake. Straight up well protected face into crack and corner. Bolted belay at 38m, recommend 80m rope for lowering. Take double cams from 0.3 Camelot to 3 Camelot and double wires. Consider 3 x 2 Camelot and 3 x 3 Camelot. Lots of slings!

3m left of Waylander, start at Gritstone slab/layback. Recommend to stick-clip first bolt. Bouldery crux at first roof (permadraw) and then a further 28m of fine, pumpy and varied climbing.

5m left of Gumption at vertical wall with small start cairn. Engaging climbing up to roof and rest. Hard and committing sequence through 2.5m roof, followed by quality face climbing. Anchors below roof for rebelay to aid cleaning. First section to these anchors is a decent 24.

12m left of Gumption at the base of short slab. Up through steepening terrain through main roof. The 15m long headwall is bullet hard, baked orange goodness. Hard 26 or soft 27, grade still to even out.

Left of The Enforcer, ascend small pinnacle to start. Climb wall into trad-y corner. Good shake at permadraw then drop the clutch through the crux face climbing.

Start on left end of pinnacle as for Corner Drug. Enjoyable but wind-y climbing up to hanging corner feature. Delicate and devious beta gets you through the corner to small arete and up. Long draws and sling runners essential.

Novel tree start down and left of Hard Reset. Cruxy face leads to base of headwall and good rest. Upper section is engaging and continuous on superb rock.

An epic adventure up all sorts of vertical terrain. Starts 50m around left from Waylander proper. Arete to start then technical wall and hidden slab - then traverse right and up slabby arete and then face, bulge and corner to finish. Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Watch your rope length - 70m rope will just get you down if your belayer stands on the starting cairn!

Crag warmup. Climb Megaflex for 9 bolts then head left and up face past bolt to anchors in middle of blank slab.

Pumper. Start in corner as for Hail Mary but break right at first bolt and haul up overhung pocketed wall to climactic finish. Named in honor of 100km/h+ storm winds that howled in the valley below during the first ascent.

Start as for The Darkest Hour corner but stay on the left face, dabbling onto the arete at a few points, then left and up wall, through bulge and finish with hyper technical face.

Meanders up face left 2m of major corner (Hail Mary) and punches through steep jugs to finish.

Really long, steep and fun - the jugs at the top are next level huge. 4m left of Saw-Toothed Snake, at short flake feature and low roof. Stickclip high first bolt. This route shares a few moves with Saw Toothed Snake just before the final steepness.

Trad protected corner 10m left of STS. The top half has some remarkable but fragile rock features (including 4 small pillars). Lower off anchors on ledge.

Beautiful orange corner. First ascent stopped at roof with natural belay immediately right and potential for a longer route on the upper section (which would need cleaning). Currently no anchors for descent so a steep, roped (downwards leading?) climb down to a large ledge with a tree where you can rap approx. 18m to the ground is required to get off.

Start as for Archon and trend right. Quality tricky blunt-flake climbing.

Striking orange face/arete visible from The Pit abseil. Scramble up corner to belay on large terrace. The left line.

One of the finest single pitch face routes at the grade in The Mountains. Stellar. 26/27 - grade still to be confirmed.

Easiest sport route at the crag. Starts 2m left of Archon, but down at ground level just left of chimney. Flake start (stem off the back wall or add 4 grades) then up to huge hanging flake. At top of this swing left across face to arete and up this to anchors under little orange rooflet.

Corner crack 20m further left from Archon with brilliant yellow lichen. With proper sling-fu can be done in one 55m pitch. Abseil from tree at top to anchors of Wizball and then down. 55m rap. Take double cams from 0.4 Camelot to 3 Camelot and double wires. Lots of slings!

1m left of Cooper's Extra Stout, up featured orange wall.

Companion route to Wizball, starting 2m left. Hard start leads to tricky hard slabbing on big holds (?!).

Directly around corner from Nifta. Start at base of flake/crack. Some techy and tricky beta through the bottom section, particularly if there is no chalk. Being drawn around right will end in tears.

Start in the middle of the wall below pockets. Unlikely climbing through pockets up to crimpy crux.

A series of wicked reaches that require unconventional climbing. Pumpier than it looks.

An unlikely trad route following a crack that seems to want to vanish into the face but continues all the way to a natural finish. To access walk quite a way left (facing the cliff) around from the last bolted lines on a fairly clear track. This will take you to a large grey face with an obvious cleaned crack that starts at the ground and goes to a ledge at about 8m.

Start up the wide crack beneath the fern and up to VERY vegetated ledge. From here the climbing gets good and sees you blast up the immaculate finger crack and then truck diagonally rightwards following the crack system that links the series of horizontal breaks to the final wall and seam (very small gear, C3s or tiny X4s). Head up this into the corner and top out onto the nice ledge with the small tree and DBB. Best to bring a second up as cleaning it is painful (but doable).

Clean roof crack with not so clean start. Anchors provided at the end of the good climbing for whoever is brave enough to tackle the start.

Closed project - Jamie Baron

Closed project - Jamie Baron

Closed project - Jamie Baron

Closed project - Jamie Baron

Climbs like a granite classic. Great little trad-y corner with a pumpy and techy finale. Be sure to stick clip the first bolt to protect the choss guarding the start.