Routen in Leura

From Bryden Allen's guidebook "Rock climbs of NSW": http://www.brydenallen.com/download%20files/rock_climbs_of_nsw.2.pdf

A good climb which has its moments.

Down Perrys Lookdown to Blue Gum, up Govetts Creek for 3/4 mile then up the big ridge. Turn off to the right before the top and the crack will become obvious. Up ramps of scrub until the base of the cliff is reached.

1. 80ft Up the easy wall.

2. 80ft Traverse into the trees.

3. 70ft Continue into the crack and up a bit.

4. 70ft The crux. Delicately up the wall on the right. Good bracket type bolt runner then back into the crack. Belay.

5. 40ft Up (I think)

6. 60ft Out onto the face (I think)

The scrub free walk over Lockleys Pylon and the dance down the rack to Blue Gum are the main attractions of the climb.

A striking line that climbs the top half of a large wall, excellent views and exposure. 60m of quality crack climbing surrounded (and interspersed) with varying degrees of choss. The climb faces south, and gets the shade all day.

Rap access: Locate 2 carrot bolts at head height in rock outcrop to your right (facing out) of small clear area. 33m rap to ledge with another 2 carrot bolts. 50m rap to shale ledge and 2 belay bolts near old chain.

Bring cams 1 x #0.4, #0.5, #0.75; 2 x #1; 3 x #2, 2 x #3, 2 x #4, Mixed wires and Hexes also useful. A minimum of 13 bolt plates.

P1 15m (17) - Climb up hideous shale on bolts to reach next shale ledge. Traverse delicately left past more shale to Carrot + #4 cam belay. 6 bolts.

P2 25m (20) - Up juggy, sandy rock to rooflet on bolts. Traverse sharp right (#3 cam) delicately to gain overhanging crack. Up this with glee to #1 + #2 belay. 3 bolts.

P3 25m (18) - Up tricky old-school thrutchy crack with fiddly gear (wires useful!) to 2-carrot belay.

P4 25m (17) - Up, truck right underneath large roof (#4 cam), then up easy crack on extremely spaced big gear on dubious rock. Belay on small ledge below mega-choss roof on gear (small-medium cams).

P5 25m (14) - Traverse hard left past 1 carrot, around "arete" and up ironstone edges past 2 more carrots and gear.

Slightly harder (especially if you are short) and even more exposed version of the original Subliminal. Maybe even better than the original?

1. 33m (22) Climb Subliminal pitch 1 to the first belay - but don't stop there! Start up that route's 2nd pitch for 1 bolt then keep traversing hard left along a juggy break above a sucking void all the way to the left arete and hanging belay on the left side of the arete.

2. 60m (23) The spectacular reachy arete for six new bolts then join into Subliminal pitch 2. 25 quickdraws required. That's not a typo.

3. 14m (14) As for Subliminal pitch 3.

It doesn't get more exposed for the grade! Ridiculous position, big jugs, lots of bolts and fabulous rock. 60m rope (minimum!) & 25+ quickdraws, some of them long.

1. 20m (20) From hanging belay, climb up for one bolt, then traverse left for a couple of hard moves to reach small ledge. Traverse this amazing exposed ledge on yummy orange rock for 20m to small sandy stance and double ring belay. Prusiks! 8 bolts.

2. 58m (23) An epic pitch. Left and up stunning orange rock (ignore horizontal line of bolts - that is Sublimated) eventually reaching the proud arête. Keep plodding up this juggy prow on the right side to small ledge at 45m. Swing onto juggy left side of arete (extender(s)) and finish up slabby dirty grey stuff. At big ledge do last tricky mantle to gain belay ledge. If using a 60m rope, don't waste any rope in the belay or you won't make it! 22 bolts (A few long runners recommended).

3. 14m (14) Easily up juggy exposed face (staying away from loose plates of rock) to top ledge. 3 bolts.

If you have a short rope or even shorter endurance you can split the mega second pitch in two parts by belaying off to the right as for the 26s.

A long, sustained pitch of varied face climbing on inspiring rock. So many pockets! Bring 20 quickdraws, at least 3 of which should be long runners.

Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined into a MEGA 65m pitch (rope management crucial! 29 quickdraws required, 5 of them should be long runners).

P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the L path where the bolt lines split (Sojourn goes R) into long rising traverse across intermittent horizontal flakes and pockets, then up to big horizontal. Step left and up past a hard move, then back right and more directly up past sustained thin climbing. At 19th bolt, step R and belay in the cave (as for Sojourn). 20 bolts.

P2 - 25m (22) - Step back L from belay, and up to 2nd bolt. Hard move past this to big horizontal, clip 1 more bolt, then truck left to rejoin Subliminal P2. Finish up this to belay. 9 Bolts.

P3 - 15m (14) - Subliminal pitch 3.

A mega 40m pitch of sustained steep face climbing on stunning rock. Bring 18 draws, 2 of them long runners. Might be hard at the grade!

P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the R path where the bolt lines split (Sabbatical goes L) into hard moves past glued flake to break and rest, then more hard moves, slightly right, then more directly left past steep right-facing flake. One more thin crux, then steeply up trending left to belay in cave.

P2 - 25m (22) - Sabbatical pitch 2.

P3 - 15m (14) - Subliminal pitch 3.

A great thin, mostly slabby pitch in its own right, which would probably be popular at any other crag... But surrounded by the elite climbs of the Sublime Point East face, this is merely a 2 star route.

Start from the Castaway belay. Head slightly right and up (crossing Subliminal P1). Continue up via very thin technical moves which get progressively harder all the way to the belay.

If climbing out via Castaway, its possible to head directly right from the belay for 7m (with exhilarating climbing) past 2 additional bolts to join the belay at the top of Castaway P1.

Intriguing multi-pitch winding up the right side of the wall. First pitch is a real winner with fantastic exposure and great rock, second is a bit weird, 3rd is an arête jugfest and last pitch is a jungle bashing adventure. One single 60m rope (no shorter) and 15 draws will suffice. A few long runners for pitch 2 are useful. This route is not suitable for a weak second as it traverses and is overhung - bring prussics.

1. 30m (21) Traverse R for 5m then up wall to next small ledge (Subliminal p1). Right again for 2-3m then straight up the amazing orange wall above. At about 20m traverse right to arete and final sandy corner. Belay in slot between main wall and balancing boulder. Short climbers will find this is more like grade 22/23. 10 bolts.

2. 15m (20) Walk across slot to right side of sandy cave. Up right side of arete for 5m on black jugs then hand traverse left to other side of arete and up steep orange wall to small ledge belay on arete. Use long runners on the 2nd and 3rd bolts. 8 bolts.

3. 20m (20) Arete for 15m then left and up final short headwall. Mantle grass to belay on big vegetated ledge. 8 bolts.

4. 15m (5) To exit stay roped up and scramble left then right up vegetated ramp to base of chimney. Hand over hand up fixed rope (or chimney if you like for extra style points) for 6m to arrive where you started at rap chains. 2 bolts.

Easier direct start to Castaway. Gorgeous orange rock.

Trust nothing but your feet. First three bolts of Wrath of Froth, then swing onto the left side of the arete and climb the super sweet orange face. It weaves around a bit - a few long draws will help with rope drag, especially on bolt 3 (or alternatively it is easy to unclip once you have clipped bolt 4). Either lower-off and clean from high anchor and climb one of the other routes to exit, or do an annoying hanging belay and traverse right onto Wrath of Froth pitch 2 about halfway up. 15ish quickdraws.

I know routes, I have the best routes. Rap in, climb out mini-multi with a similar feel to nearby Subliminal. Brilliant first pitch, average 2nd pitch, good finish pitch. Fix a 70m rope to tree at top of wall and rap over edge (rope protector advised). Rap all the way to end of rope and double bolt belay on left end of small ledge below prominent orange arete. You may want to clip into a few bolts on the way down to stay attached to the wall. Bring 15 draws and a few slings for belays.

1. 25m (24) Tremendous immaculate orange arete with a dyno to start. Finish at semi-hanging belay on awkward shelf or link into next pitch. 10ish bolts

2. 17m (18) Juggy arete for 7m then trend right across onto mossy face and up to sandy mantle onto large shelf and belay. 9 bolts.

3. 17m (22) Reachy move straight off the belay then trend right across featured steep face, pop through a small roof to ledge, then final short face to top. Finish by hand over handing up short knotted fixed rope over the lip! 9 bolts.

So much winning. Orange face to the right of pitch 1 of Wrath of Froth sharing same start belay anchors.

1. 25m (24) Hard mantle to start then weave up terrific orange face to small ledge and semi hanging off double belay bolts. 10 bolts.

2. 16m (18) Straight up juggy face to join into Wrath of Froth pitch 2 for the last two bolts. 8 bolts?

3. 17m (22) Same last pitch as for Wrath of Froth.

An old all trad route up the obvious easy corner, then right onto face and up to ledge and BB. There a couple of manky pitons en route and a couple of crap bolts on the ledge 2/3rds of the way up the wall to belay off. Grade is a rough guesstimate. Macca has done a solo TR direct version (~22) of this up a faint seam crack a few metres to the right, and continuing to the top of the cliff (shown in topo).

The best warmup/warm down on this wall. Tricky start on shallow pockets (avoiding the tree) then orange wall to bulge. Over this using flake then up reachy face above. All U-bolts. Possible (and nice) to continue up p2 of Sundial in one big pitch.

Fine sustained wall climbing in the middle of the wall. Climbs much better than it looks. Link the two pitches together for a big sport route.

1. 20m (21) Carrots, then a couple of rings, then 7+ glue-in carrots to small ledge and rap anchor. Quite thin in places. Lower-off, or...

2. 12m (21) Continue up steeper wall above on pumpy little flats. It's exactly 30m to the ground from the top anchors.

Middle route of the wall. Left trending start on orange pocketed rock then back right to small roof. Over this on small holds and up black face above on little edges to lower-off. A little mossy up high.

Furthest right of the bolted routes. Josh Dobson never freed this route and it has had a faded tag hanging off it for years. Nice easy climbing up to rooflet, hard crimps over this (appears to be chipped?) then dirty mossy slab to finish. Currently its so mossy you can't make the anchor so lower off the last ring. Grade of 25 is given up to this no moss high point!

Start off block traversing right then up on killer holds and cool moves

Start on flake, up past 2 bolts the right on rad pockets and up thin headwall.

Start on flake then straight up.

Start up slab the onto black arête and up.

Not quite Sublime. Starts at right end of black dirty slab where the descent track flattens out to the shale ledge. Apparently an excellent hangover climb or relaxing afternoon, back in the day.

1. 17m (12) Up near dirt on good rock to tree.

2. 13m (12) Easily up to bush anchor.

3. 17m (12) Up broken rock slight left around overhang to dirt ledge. Traverse left around corner then scramble up and right to track.

Start below yellow chossy crack 10m left of Pawns Leap. Up, through roof crack and continue up slabby vegetated crack above to tree belay. Grade is a total guess. Anyone repeated this?

A steep pumper on some of the biggest holds in the mountains - overhangs 5m. Starts about 5m left of ES (40m left of access track) at steep orange overhanging wall between massive choss. Right into little corner, traverse right across horizontal to steep prow, jug up this to overhanging orange wall with finale crux to anchor.

Just left of CCC through steep terrain. Originally climbed direct at 2nd last bolt, avoiding the ledge, at grade 22 - but it seems everyone uses the ledge to make it a cruisy 21. Longer draws useful to reduce drag.

Line of least resistance through a world of seething choss.

Start: Starts at chossy groove under big overhang 2m left of 'Choc Chip Chai'.

1. 13m (12) Choss for 7m then dawdle left on small ledge and around nose into corner. Onto ledge and up to block. Old bolt belay.

2. 10m (14) Wall to cave and old double bolt belay.

3. 20m (14) Overhang on left and wall.

Appallingly chossy corner that joins into the first pitch of 'Defaecation' after the traverse.

Start: Marked DDS. Starts 10m left of original route.

An old aid route now free. Major line on the right side of alcove with appalling choss at the start. The steep corner crack on the third pitch is the good bit.

Start by taking pictures of the fascinating witches who put the scintillating stitches in the britches of the boys who put the powder on the noses on the faces of the ladies of the harem of the court of King 'Caractacus', who are just passing by ... at the choss 20m left of DDS.

1. 27m (12) Chossy corner of sorts to small ledge on the left and old bolt belay.

2. 11m (12) Continue up rambling corner crack to ledge.

3. 22m (21) The steep major left facing corner finishing out right of the big hanging block. This used to be an aid pitch at M4.

4. 50m (12) Easily up trending left.

1950s style chossy ramble. Who needs protection when you just have a rope tied around your waist anyway?

Start: Starts 8m left of C on left side of square alcove.

1. 20m (11) Up sandy corner nonsense to cave then left until you can stand.

2. 17m (11) Up to cave, onto wall and up to small cave.

3. 20m (12) Up to big ledge and tree belay.

4. 40m (-) Left across ledge.

5. 33m (12) Up and right to tree

6. 20m (-) Walk to 5m corner, up it to tree.

7. 27m (-) Up right to ledge to first gully. Up to flakes then chimney. Up to tree.

8. 13m (-) Chimney.

A mighty line tamed by stainless steel. Unknown to Mikl (who bolted it), 'barefoot' Brian Burford had led the 2nd pitch 12 years previously - ground up on trad. Apparently he is happy to have it bolted now so put away those angle grinders tradsters! An easy first pitch leads to extremely overhung corner with easy climbing through ridiculous roofs.

1. 25m (18) Easy sandy horizontals up the left wall of the left corner past many U-bolts. Either lower off first anchor or climb up and right over shale explosion to second anchor bolts at base of corner.

2. (21) Up right facing corner to ledge, then left facing corner to final undercling moves. Juggy on good rock. Don't lower off, it would be terrifying and your rope would run over all sorts of scariness. Best to lead and second this pitch. Pull over the top and there's a pair 'U' bolts at the back of the ledge.

3. (12) Up wall on left past a ring to trees and ledge. Walk right 40m to rejoin walk-down. If going to top from here, go up the gully 10m and walk right.

Sandy flake and roof crack 7m right of Lead Zeppelin that goes up and out and out and out. Macca has freed up to the roof crack above the ledge about 8m up, and reckons the whole thing would be good at about M3 or free climb at about 20ish? to the ledge and hard 23? through the roof crack. Small, small to medium cams and wires.

Finally some better rock! A good first pitch up a major line but degenerates further up on the black slabs.

Start: Marked LZ

1. 23m (17) A steep corner crack past some greenery then cranks through a roof via a chimney. There is a rusty pin for historical interest. Belay at tree.

2. 30m (-) Continue up wide crack in slabby black wall to tree belay.

3. 40m (-) More of the same low angle trench climbing to tree belay on steep hillside. Scramble and bush bash up from here.

Start as for Theory on Negativity. At 2nd bolt veer right and up steep wall.

Sensational juggy sport climbing up a long and steep orange scoop. Surprisingly easy with big holds the whole way up. Starts aprox 10m left of Lead Zeppelin at impressive orange wall.

Orange featured face 2m left of 'Theory of Negativity'. Bouldery start so stick clip the 2nd bolt if 23 is your limit.

Links the low crux section of The Cramps into the crux section of On the Wagon via the short, closed flake. Good value! This link-up was done as follows, without any new rings: Start as for The Cramps and continue up to clip its 4th ring with a long draw. Step up and left to layaway off flake, reaching left to clip the 3rd ring of On the Wagon (OTW). Climb to the top of the flake to clip the 4th ring of OTW, then reach down and unclip 3rd ring of OTW to prevent rope drag. Continue up OTW to its anchors.

Start 2m left of TC. Directly up the slightly overhung orange wall.

Marked GR

They don't make them like this anymore, and that's probably a good thing. Another hybrid bush-walk slash rock-climb done by the 50s pioneers of choss and doodle. "Filthy. A vertical bushwalk. Take a trowel." [JME]

Start: Starts 2m left of The Cramps at vertical vegetated corner.

1. 20m (-) Scrub to ledge and tree belay.

2. 20m (10) Scrub to ledge, dirty crack and up to bush.

3. 13m (-) Scrub to ledge (seeing the theme emerging here?)

4. 12m (-) Right and up to ledge

5. 15m (-) Filthy chimney on left.

A big black juggy old school slab.

Start:On corner at left of black wall with carved KG initials, shared with The Belfry.

1. 25m (8) Up and slightly right to tree belay.

2. 35m (-) Continue trending right past a few small bulges and good belay ledge, or another 10-15m to start of vegetated gully and tree belay.

3. Scramble up gully and scrub to eventually finish under bridge.

Another major line of least resistance and most vegetation from the Rhum Dhu pioneers.

Start: Start as for 'Kedumba Gambit'.

1. 50m (12) Climb first two pitches of 'Kedumba Gambit'. [Apparently to avoid hardcore roof corner / crack]

2. 17m (-) Scrubby ledge left to tree.

3. 10m (-) Yummy chimney.

4. 20m (-) Continue up the chimney to tree.

5. 10m (-) Continue up chimney to cave and tree.

6. 13m (-) Right crack. "Wriggle into crack on the right crack and thrust upwards." [BA] Appears to be hideous barely navigable offwidth.

7. 15m (-) Up.

Multi-pitch climbing via a series of overhung orange buttresses divided by good ledges. Starts 50m left of Theory of Negativity at recessed orange corner with large orange hanging arete high above it. Trad only required on the first pitch or if you can't place trad you can climb the optional, but not as good, I Don't Place Wigglies 4m left.

1. (17m, 16) Trad - Orange recessed corner with twin cracks. Finish up the left hand corner crack to big ledge and bolt belay. Eats finger to hand size cams and big wires.

2. (25m, 23, 11 bolts) Up left side of orange wall for a few metres - then traverse right to small hanging corner and onto small ledge. Right edge of this find hidden bolt then up overhung arete which turns into frightening large ironstone jugs. Belay on large ledge. You can rap from here to ground with two 50m ropes.

3. (15m, 22, 7 bolts) Walk 50m left along shale ledge to bolt belay below big orange wall. Undercut start on jugs then up pumpy face on slots. Belay on small ledge.

4. (15m, 24) Out, right and up the imposing orange wall and prow with a squillion bolts. Belay on small ledge.

5. (10m, 18) Juggy steep wall past diving board to cruddy black rock topout. Belay on tree well back from edge

Bolted black wall just left of recessed orange corner. Not great. This is the only way of doing Cynics United if you can't place trad.

Rad independent corner with a beautiful roof crux. Starts from the same ledge as the Trojan. Either finish up the Iliad or rap Cynics United with two ropes.

Think twice about what's actually attached on the top out.

A great trad multi-pitch with only one short section of gardening down low. The upper pitches are in a fantastic position with great orange rock up a major crackline. Standard rack of finger to fist crack size cams and wires are needed, bring doubles of cams (or a rack of hexes and some gear placing nous) as you will need to use them to setup belays. Starts about 20m left of Cynics United and 40m right of the Binary Cave.

The start is fairly easy to spot. The first few metres are vegetated grasstrees - but then a stonker black juggy handcrack emerges.

1. 27m (12) Bridge around grasstrees then up bomber handcrack (jugs abound) then bushbash up easy vegetated ledges for 10m to large ledge. Belay off finger crack sized trad gear in crack just right of arete with old piton at the base. (A cleaner alternative is to do the first pitch of Cynics United and walk left)

2. 27m (16) Clip the manky piton (good wire and small cam around corner) and do a tough reachy move onto the arete. Up the face with distant pro for 8m to horizontal break (there is a good #0.75 and #0.5 camalot placement at 4m and a large nut placement at 6m). Traverse right slightly along this break to gain the vegetated crack on the right above overhung corner. Up this crack on good cams to belay on large ledge. Trad belay. This pitch can also be climbed via the Trojan (23) variant start, which climbs the tips crack on the right side of the arete into the top section of the original pitch.

3. 13m (16) Crux. 'Steep' orange corner crack to lip, then juggy corner to cave and trad belay. You can easily join this pitch into the next one (use lot of extenders).

4. 20m (15) Continue up the crack that turns into a rightwards leading ramp that eventually ends with a steep mantle onto a good ledge and tree belay (can be backed up with #2 camalot).

To exit walk up the hill to small cliffline. Follow this cliffline right for 100m or so to below tourist lookout and short gully that goes under metal bridge.

Desperate, strenuous and with very small gear (1 x BD #1, 1 x BD #2, 1 x BD C3 #1, 1 x BD C3 #2, Double rack of wires + gear for the top half of The Illiad P2). From the belay at the end of Pitch 1 of The Illiad, climb the tips crack around the corner to the right, and join The Illiad Pitch 2 at the rooflet crack before the final slab. Continue to belay as for the rest of Pitch 2 of The Illiad.

Start: Crack in middle of wall, left of 'The Iliad' and right of Constipation Chimney.

1. 27m (-) Up crack through easy wall to small tree then larger tree. Originally done in two pitches.

2. 13m (-) Up slight overhang on small nose to left, then then steeply to next ledge and bollard belay.

3. 24m (-) Up 6m, traverse left on small ledge, up to big ledge.

4.+30m? (-) Traverse left and finish 'Constipation Chimney' or as you wish.

A major old-school line of little modern merit.

Start: Start at big black wall or small wall to its side.

1. 30m (-) Up to first ledge 2m right of corner.

2. 13m (-) Diagonally left and up to ledge.

3. 30m (-) Traverse left to corner and up to ledge.

4. 20m (12) Chimney to cave on left.

5. 17m (-) Up, ignoring the scrub on the left.

6. 13m (-) Wall on right.

7. 13m (-) Traverse left and up chimney.

A nice easy trad corner on the right side of the Binary Cave. Marked CCVS. There are now rap anchors added at the top of the first pitch. Be careful of some loose rock at the top.

A great wet weather protected slab climb! The right most bolted line on the wall. Start either via first few metres of the trad corner Constipation Chimney VS or boulder the start direct (grade 21?). A couple of clips are tricky if you are short. The bolts were a birthday gift from Vanessa and Ryan.

Technical wall climbing up some great orange rock. Share the first three bolts of Birthday Bolts then take the left line direct up the steeper face. This was the first of the modern sport routes established in the Binary Cave, and kicked off Neil's tradition to establish a new route at this crag on every birthday. 3 years running so far.

Line of rings up dark orange wall 3m left of Thirty Three Years. Stick clip first bolt and campus the undercut start. Nice finish up steep prow, that is now a touch harder since a key hold fell off. The start of this route is shared with the next three routes as well.

A bit squeezed in but has some great sustained climbing. Same start as for Flash Flood for a couple of bolts then take the next line of bolts to the left. Easily to small cave then punch out a committing move above it. Nice climbing to the top, staying just left of arête.

Undercut start as for Flash Flood for a couple of bolts then slightly left and up the wall left of Stereo. A bit of a shutdown crux in the middle, that can be done slightly easier by climbing to the right of the bolts.

Really good sustained climbing that wanders around a bit to link a line above the overhung section. Start as for up Flash Flood (or Nice Day for a Disco), and then move left to the furthest line of ringbolts that traverses over lip of small cave, then climb up and right up the super headwall.

This is not a full route, but confusingly an optional harder start to the previous couple of routes. Starts 2m left of Flash Flood at right side of overhung/cave. There is a hard/awkward move at the 3rd bolt before it links into the other routes.

Direct start links into LN, TV, S, or FF. 25m indicated height includes these 4 routes.

Unlikely well protected trad climbing. Starts 6m left of Flash Flood. Weave up blocky steep stuff to under big roof. Swing right across break and up seam crack to topout onto shale ledge and single ubolt + trad belay. Long draws useful to avoid rope drag.

Proof no-one climbs trad anymore. Climb Torrential for 12m to under big roof. Place #5 cam in slot with long sling then committing traverse left under roof and up technical small corner on great rock to bolt belay on shale ledge. Double ropes or long slings make rope drag much more pleasant.

Some funky moves and a great example of Bundy's creative vision to squeeze in another route! Up groove behind small tree. Swing through the roof and onto the face. Left, up and then back to the right crossing Middle Finger and on to orange headwall.

Upgraded in the 2019 guidebook. 5m left of MF, just left of small tree leaning against cliff. Steep juggy start up to big roof. Monkey across imposing roof flake then up super headwall.

Popular steep climbing. Climb up juggy cracks and flakes to the biggest roof at Binary Cave. Crank over this with a bouldery lip move then up great orange headwall. Two long draws in the roof help reduce rope drag.

As good as the other routes here. Up the juggy wall right of Thumbs Up crack to large shale ledge under roof. Clip roof bolt then hand traverse shale ledge left to join into Thumbs Up's roof crack section. Up crack for a move then hand traverse back right above dramatic roof then up great sustained orange wall.

An exciting steep trad line that doesn't see much love. The first pitch has been freed recently, but the upper pitches probably haven't seen a repeat in decades. For the first pitch bring a full rack including micro cams and several long slings. Start at crackline through steep wall 3m left of Swinging in the Rain.

1. 25m (24) The double roof pitch. First roof is bouldery, the second is reachy and pumpy. Finish up fantastic easy corner to trad belay on shale ledge.

2. 27m (- M4) Very thin seam crack splitting roof above. Probably requires pitons. Might go free?

3. 40m (15) Easy trench crack to top.

Has a reputation for being tough for the grade and having a tricky pocket sequence. Starts just left of Thumbs Up. Boulder though a couple of roofs to an easy head wall.

Go go stop. The best of the harder routes at the Binary Cave Steep bouldery start trending right to rooflet then straight up the gorgeous orange wall on small sloping holds to an easier finish.

Whilst Bundy and Macca pissed around on their sport/trad project over several years Steve noticed the chalk Macca had left from trying the direct start and managed to bolt send this harder version in one weekend. It's the route between Binary Neil and Thumbs Out.

Looks as though it has a couple of impassable blank sections, but some focussed oomph will see you through, provided you have average or better wingspan. Very good climbing which deserves more attention.

Chris Beers

The site of a bloody showdown of conflicting ethics, wherein fact and fiction have become conflated throughout history to produce an epic tale of Tolkienesque proportions. Finally put to a rest by a third party almost a decade after the conflict began.

Start at fused right-facing seam/corner/crack/roof thing. Bold-ish face climbing, with a couple of gymnastic cruxes. Be careful, as a fall or blown gear at a few points might lead to a trip to hospital. Bring a rack 0.3 to #2 (consider micros, depending on your definition of acceptable risk) and maybe a tin of spinach (or a joint).

Extension-Project (Trad) Macca: Continue up from the big block straight up the steepening with limited small to medium large gear options turn the lip and up 5m to belay on ledge. Good gear is available here but bolts might be placed to allow lowering or continue to top...

Start just right of Thumbs Down on sandy shelf. Right trending wall to big horizontal break. Swing across this then lean back and reach the big jug over the lip. Up featured wall above. Might be grade 23, especially if you are tall.

Another old aid route through a big ceiling that has now been partially freed.

1. 25m (23) Chossy corner crack for 12m to large shale covered ledge and BR. Up short corner to roof, then traverse rightwards with difficulty (small cams) to lip of roof and easy crack finish and trad belay on shale ledge.

2. 10m (10) Corner to ledge. Best linked into next pitch.

3. 13m (23/M2) Up corner then right to prow. Overhung short corner (piton scars) and out hanging wall to juggy black stuff and up to ledge. Is being attempted as a free route by Macca (2013).

4. 30m (15) Long easy black wall of horror jugs.

First of the short sport routes just left of Thumbs Down. Nice wall to start then thin crimpy finish with a tricky to clip last bolt. Convince someone else to put the draws on first!

Popular, mostly due to the bolts, easy grade and the weather protection. The middle of the three mini-routes. Wall to fun flake feature, then up tricky wall to finish. Some loose rock at the top.

The cute little slab just right of free standing pillar.

Sandy horizontals jugs to get started with cool moves above the break. Right of small pillar, and just left of Whimsical.

2 pitches. An easy first pitch, and a lovely hard pitch hidden up on the orange wall hanging above. Start 5 metres left of the mini-totem pole pillar.

1. 20m (17) Easy, peasy. A mix of FHs and ringbolts. You can lower off the big staple at the top of the wall, or much better, climb up to the ledge and do the second pitch. A rap anchor is 5m to the L, looking in, at the top of P2 of Hells Bells.

2. 22m (25) Steep with a low crux, then nice moves to the top.

Start at blocky black corner 25m left of TD. There is a rap anchor at the top of Pitch 2, so you can do it as a single pitch and rap. This avoids the vegetated upper pitches.

1. 10m (14) Up wall right of corner aiming for a small ledge below orange roof. Single old rusty carrot. Don't stop here - link this with pitch 2.

2. 8m (15) Traverse left to arete plugging good gear in the crack under the roof. Belay at rap chain (stainless).

3. 13m (-) Diagonally left to crack and old bolt belay. Mucho vegeteriano.

4. 10m (16) Crack to bolt belay.

5. 20m (-) Diagonally left for 8m then diagonally right to ledge and tree. Scramble off to the right.

The rightmost route on the ledge, starting at the first double bolt anchor, 3m left of the anchor for Constipation Chimney Variant Start.

Mantle onto ledge, then hard moves up flake to juggy steep climbing. Craft whatever rest you can, because the crux is clipping the anchors (though with a bit of funkiness, it can be made easier).

Resist the temptation to put a giant draw on the anchor, and step up to the challenge to earn the grade!

A surprisingly mellow undertaking despite the roofiness, with a funky gnarly move to gain the lip. Probably sub-24 but for the last move.

The secondmost route from the right, starting at a single bolt anchor, 5m left of the anchor for Constipation Chimney Variant Start. Mantle to ledge, then punch right to flake and up to rest. Then, truck right through roofiness, up to mushroom-jug, and onwards to ultimate finale.

Ideally, clip the anchor from the sloper jugs on the lip, but if they're wet, just do whatever works for you. Single bolt anchor. Backjump to clean.

"...to admit a kangaroo unreservedly to be a man would inevitably involve one in a number of distressing implications, the kangaroolity of women and your wife beside you being one example." -The Good Fairy (At Swim Two Birds)

Shares the first 5 bolts with "Is it About a Bicycle?" before breaking right. Gain the huge roof flake, then jug along with glee to the final, wild boulder problem to turn the roof. Single bolt anchor ABOVE the lip of the roof. Back jump to clean.

Short, but hilarious steep jugging up an overhanging prow.

Shares the first 5 bolts with the Project to the right, before breaking hard left.

Single bolt anchor. Backjump to clean.

Effectively a 2nd pitch to Digitalicious through the short steep roofs above the shale ledge. Short right facing flake, wall then long move through roof to jug. Hand traverse right then up steep wall above to crux section passing the final bolt. Mantle the lip to finish. Back-jump.

The left hand finish to Armistice Direct via an outrageous foot free hand-traverse along a series of incut holds across a blank orange shield. Finish with hands over the lip. Lower off large single U-bolt or backjump.

Both Jason and Macca eyed this line off, nether realizing the other wanted the first ascent. Jason got in first, bolting and climbing it, then Macca did the same route on trad and called it a different name. Confused? Everyone is! The route is the crack on the buttress 2m left of Hells Bells and currently also has ringbolts - although the first has been chopped.

The major exposed black arete on the right side of Ben Trovato Wall. The line looks appealing, but even with considerable recent retrobolting (with permission from first ascentist) this route is still a bold and loose proposition. To do this all on trad like the original rock warriors would be quite the head trip. Wear helmets and take a double rack of cams from finger to fist size to supplement the ringbolts. Leave your bumbly partner at home.

1. 15m (16) A fun and popular sport pitch up the grey face at the base of the mega arete (about 20m right of the metal access rungs to Ben Trovarto Wall). Most parties rap from the ledge and climb something else - if you are a soft rock enthusiast continue reading... (and climbing)

2. 25m (19) Up the arete for a couple of bolts, then a vital #2 Camalot in a funny orange pocket then wall on left side of arete past several bolts and a couple of cams to belay on top of alarming detached block forming ledge. If you've survived the soft rock on this pitch you might as well continue upwards with a bit more air!

3. 40m (19) The money pitch - if your money comes rolled up and splattered with blood and drugs from a wild night out. Spaced cams up the narrow arete for 10m to first thankful bolt. Repeat this experience four times, being very careful with large loose rocks near the top. Belay at double rings on small ledge above roof. Either rap back to the ground here or top out via next mini pitch.

4. 8m (12) Jugs (and you) that may or may not stay attached to top of cliff and tree belay. Not much gear on this pitch.

This route originally traversed in from Colosseum Corner, possibly along the line now bolted as pitch one of Sublime & the Ridiculous, or along a lower break starting at Golden Giles. The exact way has been lost to antiquity. The described first pitch linking into the lower section of the arete direct was added by Monteith in 2010. The rest was retrobolted in early 2017.

Tricky slabbing and sustained face climbing up the orange streak between The Sublime and the Beautiful and San Pornando. Once an intimidating mixed climb on carrots, it's now been retrobolted into a stellar sport climb. Linking P1 and P2 (requires a 70m rope) makes for a stunning pitch of Blueys face climbing.

Start 6-8m right of Colosseum Corner, slightly down the hill at belay bolt.

1. 20m (24) Tricky start through overlap (sounds hollow; take care (or fix it)), then easier climbing up to hard crux just below anchors (8 bolts + anchors).

2. 40m (23) Thin moves off belay, then up grey and orange streak moving slightly right through small overlap, then back left and up slab to anchors (9 bolts + anchors).

3. 10m (16) The easy, chossy final pitch up to shared anchors with TSATB or topout to tree belay (1 bolt + anchors).

Supa fun, big sporty jaunt. Starts as for Colosseum Corner and traverses across Golden Giles to big belay ledge left of arete. Up thin face left of the arete. Take about 12 draws and slings and stuff for the belays. Can either top out (tree belay) or lower off down the route. A 70m rope will get you down in two rappels (using the Golden Giles pitch 1 anchor).

1. 20m (18) Rising to the right, and upto obvious belay ledge.

2. 35m (22) Launch up the thin wall. The money pitch!

3. 20m (20) Can be linked from the 2nd pitch. Up over small bulge and continue to final headwall.

Long sustained face climbing just right of Colosseum Corner on ringbolts. The upper half follows an orange streak. Hidden lower-off anchors are tucked under the rooflet at end of this streak. Can lower off with a 70m (leader may have to downclimb 1m), otherwise re-thread half way down or use double ropes.

Australia's first grade 19! The major corner on the right side of the amazing orange wall. A trad classic, but it needs a bit (heaps!) of gardening, especially the top half which has even got major trees in the last 20m. Easily done in 2 pitches by linking pitches 1&2, and pitches 3&4. Or you can rap off after pitch 1. Add style points if you do it in the original fashion - with the rope tied around the waist and a total of only 9 pieces of lead pro.

1. 20m (19) Technical stemming corner with excellent protection. When the greenery gets too much, traverse left to belay ledge and DRB belay (shared with Ben Trovato).

2. 13m (17) Up shale corner, step right onto arete and up front of juggy detached pillar to large belay ledge. (Memorial Direct variant 32m (~21). The obvious direct continuation of the 1st pitch corner. Instead of traversing left at greenery, simply plug in a nest of gear and launch up the corner and face options that deliver you eventually at some good gear and then up to the large belay ledge atop the original pitch 2. Vertrees and Prior, 2013).

3. 33m (19) Bridge and jam the corner. The original belay was a "bolt anchor 15' diagonally to right", but the tree is actually a lovely little belay spot.

4. 12m Corner to top, good tree belay.