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Übersicht

Best “gym” in the mountains.

Einschränk. übernommen von Logan Brae

The landowners currently are allowing access but ONLY under the following conditions.

  • Stay on the track, no shortcuts.
  • Do not enter any other part of the property.
  • Do not damage vegetation. Respect regeneration.
  • No dogs.
  • No littering.
  • No fires.
  • No cairns.
  • No camping.
  • No overnight parking.

PARKING RESTRICTIONS: Please also strictly adhere to the parking guidelines, these are not optional:

  • Strictly, no more than four (4) cars are to park in the main parking area. No large vans.
  • DO NOT park at the pull-off 80m back down the hill towards Blackheath
  • DO NOT park anywhere further up the hill!
  • And DO NOT park anywhere on the right (northern) side of the road!

Consider car-pooling. If the parking spaces are full go somewhere else!

If we observe these guidelines, then this access might remain usable for longer. Educate your mates.

Note: There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', further up the road, under any circumstances. Info in the 2010 guidebook, and earlier editions, is out of date, see https://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/ for latest information.

©

Zustieg

The approach down the driveway and fire trail (described on p96 of the 2010 ed guidebook, and p56 of the 2011 Select guidebook) at Berridale Orchids must NOT be used under any circumstances. Instead, drive past the Shipley Fire Hut and up the hill, then at the second power pole park on the left (this is 40m before ‘Cliffview’, and a few hundred metres before the parking at Berridale Orchids as described in the guidebooks). The NEW track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area. Approx 10 minutes approach.

Ethik übernommen von Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route

An ugly duckling that climbs well. Far left route of the crag sharing the start and first bolt with Room with a View. Only has a single bolt as a lower-off. Don't try and cheat the last move - Mikl has made sure that's not possible!

Erstbegehung: Mikl Law, 2001

The best warm up here.

Erstbegehung: C.Hale, 1996

Two boulders split by jugs.

Erstbegehung: F.Yule, 1995

Bouldery start to awesome finale.

Erstbegehung: J.Clark, 1996

Bouldery start to monkey juggery.

Erstbegehung: C.Hale, 1996

RB's up overhanging juggy wall and through the roof

Erstbegehung: J.Kurko, 1996

Excellent pumpy climbing up the wall, through the roof, and on to the slab above.

Erstbegehung: F.Yule, 1995

Quite squeezy through the bulge unfortunately. Probably climbs best if you can keep your blinkers on and stay really direct above the 4th & 5th bolts, to keep it entirely independent of both neighbouring routes. But its worthwhile whichever holds you use.

Erstbegehung: J.Clark, 1996

Short but it packs a punch for the length! The busted 3rd bolt has been replaced. - P.T

Erstbegehung: J.Clark, 1996

Start as for WBB but head right and up. Hard.

Erstbegehung: J.Kurko, 1996

Start up juggy rooflet, then some good rock and powerful climbing right up until the anchors.

Erstbegehung: J.Kurko, 1996

Grovel through the dirt or batman.

The obvious link into VD at the 3rd bolt has been done ("Demented Cabbage", same grade, FRA D. O'Donnell 2006).

Erstbegehung: M.Pircher, 1997

One of the best and most sustained of the grade in the mountains. Nothing too cruxy, but relentless climbing that will keep you honest all the way to the anchors.

Erstbegehung: J.Kurko, 1996

Lower pocket crux then jugs to an oddly placed anchor. Continuing up Vertical Dementia improves it.

Erstbegehung: M. File

Short steep little arete. Low crux then lots of jugs and a runout to the anchor.

Erstbegehung: J.Clark, 1996

The crag classic!!

Crux down low but plenty of funky holds and tricky moves to keep you pumping all the way to the top.

Erstbegehung: F.Yule, 1995

Just squeezed in but still popular for the grade. Good, funky Logan Brae climbing with some holds that seep. Some filling down the bottom, no drilling.

Erstbegehung: M.Law, 1997

First bolt as for EIEIO then bust out right and up.

Erstbegehung: M.Baker, 1995

Start just right of EIEIO. Follow the chalk up through the jugs to finish at the giant U. If the moss above doesn't turn you off a good finish is to quest onwards to the Shark Pool anchors.

Has been linked into Shark Pool at the 4th bolt ("Flake Maker", maybe adds a grade, FRA D. O'Donnell 2006).

Erstbegehung: J.Clark, 1996

Some fairly large moves on some less large holds. Careful of the veg at the start.

Erstbegehung: S.Atkins, 1996

Short, juggy, fun.

Erstbegehung: J.Clark, 1996

Erstbegehung: J.Kurko, 1996

Funky 3D climbing on incredibly slippery rock. Was once grade 21! Rebolted 2019.

Erstbegehung: C.Hale, 1996

Right trending line up marbled rock 1m right of DMW. Distinct crux near the top on crimps. Named in memory of climber Anthony Harris - RIP.

Starts 4m right of Dead Man Walking at log start. Similar to Mountain Ant on water washed featured rock and a distinct crux above the bulge.

The next 2 climbs are about 80m right of the main area. They are up in a large overhang, accessed via a short scramble with rungs.

Thin, steep and sharp. A false start then some really good moves.

Erstbegehung: A.Richardson, 2002

Shared start with HTTBC then after the 5th bolt bam out right and up.

Erstbegehung: A.Richardson, 2002

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Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Autor(en): Simon Carter

Datum: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Autor(en): Simon Carter

Datum: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

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