Best “gym” in the mountains.
The landowners currently are allowing access but ONLY under the following conditions.
PARKING RESTRICTIONS: Please also strictly adhere to the parking guidelines, these are not optional:
Consider car-pooling. If the parking spaces are full go somewhere else!
If we observe these guidelines, then this access might remain usable for longer. Educate your mates.
Note: There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', further up the road, under any circumstances. Info in the 2010 guidebook, and earlier editions, is out of date, see https://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/ for latest information.
©The approach down the driveway and fire trail (described on p96 of the 2010 ed guidebook, and p56 of the 2011 Select guidebook) at Berridale Orchids must NOT be used under any circumstances. Instead, drive past the Shipley Fire Hut and up the hill, then at the second power pole park on the left (this is 40m before ‘Cliffview’, and a few hundred metres before the parking at Berridale Orchids as described in the guidebooks). The NEW track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area. Approx 10 minutes approach.
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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Autor(en): Simon Carter
Datum: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079082
The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.
Autor(en): Simon Carter
Datum: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079075
Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!
22 | ★★ Room With a View | ||
23 | ★★ Creep Show | ||
24 | ★★★ Vertical Dementia | ||
25 | ★★★ Dr Stein | ||
27 | ★★ Hip to the Bumper Crop |
Heidi Macklin in ★★ Room With a View 22 - Heidi styling it on Room with a view
Jason Lammers in ★★ Kathy K 25 - The bear warming up in 3rd gear.
Jesse Lomas in ★★★ Vertical Dementia 24 - Guns for show, Knives for a pro. jesse cuts his way through this stella route!
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