Begehungen in Helen Boulder

Run out

Pleasant route, we took the slightly harder start up HW, easier route available off the right from the start. After the ledge, a little bulging move, we placed some extra pro to cover the move. The bulge is probably the satisfying aspect of the climb. The rest is fairly straightforward, nice easier trad lead for beginners

Old fashioned 'clip or hit' number, but not too hard coming in from the left to the bolt, and a couple of bits after if you wanted to lead. Pretty sure Geoff would have started in a cleaner, harder fashion than I did, as a couple of grades easier than Spastic Octopus.

Top rope route, otherwise only 2 cams at about 5m. Acolyte not unwillingly reduced to hauling duties and surveying the view of the smoky valley.

Given that I'd spent the previous night dressed in a white Tyvek coverall adorned with glowsticks, gyrating like a spastic octopus with a crowd of very enthusiastic young gentlemen in what can only be described as a 1980 Oxford St club dancefloor miraculously transported to a house on the wrong side of Katoomba, it seemed fair to 'give this one a burl' as we used to say.

It involves a number of very long stretches, which is strange, as I don't recall Glenn being particulary tall, though well built. And octopus-style leg movements, which again I don't recall. But who's to say his stature, and achievement, don't exceed the clouded recollections of 39 years ago?

Got it clean the second time. Room for a couple of small cams in addition to the rusted bolts.

How dare they downgrade this from 17 in the faded Carrigan guide? Remember struggling on this c1979 - it was hard then and no easier now!

Plenty of pro, but do you have time to place it?

great pump

Yes, brilliant and surprisingly steep although at first glance you think it’s a slab.

Shame there’s not a couple of sensible bolts on this, moves are great.

A lot of technical moves to be able to reach between holds

Fun little crack

Felt hard for the grade to me

Mock Lead (Trad Course)

x 2

x 2

With Warwick Williams.

Punchy and hard even 2nd go. 24?

Dangerously underbolted.

great little route