Einträge in Shipley Upper

Probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Blue Mountains. It has magnificent views, mostly sport routes, easy access, and great routes from the mid-teens to early 30s. Something for everyone. It faces North-West and gets plenty of sun. Sun hits the crag at 11.30am in summer. In winter you can climb all day with the entire wall getting sun from 8.30am.

Stay alert when lowering the leader because they will land on the wrong side of the fence, on the slippery slope leading down to the 50m cliff below. And tie a knot in the end of your rope.

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. It is not a designated off-leash area: dogs must be leashed at all times. Also, the BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the observed impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. More considerate dog owners therefore might like to think about not bringing your dog at all.

Batman start.

Start: About 50m past Cleopatra's Bath and about 80 metres before the fence at the start of Walls Ledge.

There's a lonely line of spider-webby ringbolts up the wall about 20m L of Pooferator. Bolted by Vince Day and now open? No doubt it'll be hard.

Steve's first route bolted and his last ticked in the area. The only route in this sector without an irritating batman start, but you still have to stick clip. Start up the log near the end of the hand rail. Like the sign says, please don't belay in the bushes (belaying on the track is fine if you step left). Jack Masel Rick

Links the crux of Pooferator into the crux of Equaliser. Roman (starts at 12:35)

Pooferator into Truckstop into Horseshoe into Fabricator.

Was once the hardest route at the crag, and was originally graded 31! Fairly quickly downgraded to a solid 28, but since then some holds have crumbled/gone, making the route more sustained, and better! Maybe still 'just' a solid 28, or maybe 29, but whatever the grade, its a bloody ripper power endurance testpiece so just get on it!

Start on the right hand side of the huge scoop near the left hand end of the railing. Please stick clip and batman - do NOT trample the vegetation.

The anchor has 2 clip-n-go captive biners. These are the dodgy cast style and need to be replaced ASAP, probably by hacksawing them off. They shouldn't be trusted in the meantime.

After the first 2 bolts of 'Demoraliser' there is a bolt to the left which lets you link into 'Equaliser' via some thin 26ish moves. This eliminates the batman, but presents a nasty pendulum fall potential if you blow it getting to the 2nd bolt of Equaliser, and also creates rope drag once you're further up Equaliser, so its not much of an improvement over the batman.

Links the first 4 bolts of 'Equaliser' into the finish of 'Pooferator', avoiding both cruxes. What a train station in Paris has got to do with this route is anyone's guess.

A link up. Take 'Equaliser' to near 4th bolt then bouldery past a RB on the R to join 'Fabricator'.

Starts as Equaliser, but goes straight up.

Up 'Equaliser' to hole before 3rd bolt, then R to thin stuff and overlap. Finishes at a single bolt below the choss. Back jump to previous bolt below overlap with bail biner to clean.

Start 2m R of 'Equaliser'. Stick clip advisable because the first holds aren't positive and are usually wet, even if they don't look it. Wobble up onto the fence, and delicately step onto face. Up the steepening wall with each move getting a bit harder than the previous one... Lower off the huge bizarre single ringbolt with a double-coiled 6-inch eye.

The obvious 'line' on this side of the crag. Desperate side pulling. In early 2011 some crux holds came off so now its certainly not soft for the grade.

Start below the right facing corner and seam. Stickclip and batman to first bolt. Use long draws on 2nd & 3rd bolts so your rope doesn't scrub on the flake.

Thin and balancy...and powerful.

Batman start and then up the flake as for 'Iron Mike' before busting out right through some of the finest face climbing Shipley has to offer.

Steve's contribution to trad climbing. A bit cruxy since a hold broke, but still well worthwhile. The crux is bolt protected. Take 2 or 3 #0.5 camalots, plus singles up to #3.

Start behind the tree 12m R of Iron Mike. Batman start. Depending on the length of your draws it may be wise to extend the 4th so it doesn't grind your rope on the little lip if you whip. One of the dryest routes at Shipley when the seepage lines are all pumping down the rest of the wall.

USE A 60M ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope when using a 50m rope on these routes - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

Also, the logs are getting a bit wobbly: stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.

This sector has been renamed from its previous name ("Golliwog Wall"), given that Golliwog Grades was added much later than Grand Junction (and carries unfortunate overtones).

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

Start about 20m left of Krusty the Climb, and 20m R of Slay Ride, at a prominent red shale blob. Stick clip a staple above the vegetated undercut, traverse 8m to the right, then up to an anchor in the black rock about 5m from the top.

The longest stick clip at Shipley, and the batman is quite a rope shredder too. Start 20m L of Supercal, at a gap in the handrail where it bends to a post embedded in a boulder.

The next three routes share the same start off the access log with a fork at the top.

Another route that is unfairly overshadowed by its 'three star' neighbours. Up the log and first two bolts as for The Eviscerator then traverse 5m L to the lefthand line of bolts.

Excellent. Very thin and technical up the orange wall to a nip in the tail. Save it for a cool day. Straight up off the log.

A very popular route, and one that seems to be a good introduction to the grade - probably due to the plethora of bolts at the crux. Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended, then take the righthand line of bolts off this log.

5m right. The next three routes share the same start up the 2nd access log (which is due for replacement as at 2023 - don't solo up it).

Start 5m right of Supercal, up the log just to the right of the end of the railing. The crux will have you silently flying. Bye!

Needs medium cams (BD #0.5-2). There's no need to touch the sandy broken flake R of the 2nd last bolt. Keep climbing through the roof (past the fixed carabiner) to chain anchor. A 60m rope works.

Long, sustained - excellent. One of the longest routes at Shipley. Start as for SFB for a bolt then long traverse right, hard crux, then pump until oblivion with a left trend through the steepness to finish. USE A 60M+ ROPE minimum.

The next three routes share the same start up the 3rd access log which has been replaced and is now in good condition.

USE A 60M+ ROPE. One of the best routes on the whole wall - sustained but no definite crux (unlike many routes on this wall). Start about 15m R of AAO at the next log. This is the left line of the three.

Up the log (stick clip recommended, as with all the log starts), then straight up. Great moves with a powerful little slab to a tricky, annoying, probably undergraded finish.

USE A 60M+ ROPE (tie a knot). Good long route but often dirty from runoff. Start as for WAIA, stick clip recommended.

The next two routes share the same start up the 4th access log.

Start: Lefthand route off the 4th access tree. After the silly runout this is one of the best 23s at Shipley.

Right hand route off the log. Mostly cruisy grade 22ish climbing - then a final sting in the tail at the end. Use a 60m rope!

USE A LONG ENOUGH ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope at this crag when using a too-short rope - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

The next three routes share the same start off the 5th access log.

Left hand route off the 5th access tree. Mostly very moderate but with quite a tricky crux.

Middle route off the 5th access log. Stick clipping is optional since the first bolt was added, but clipping the 2nd is still desperate. Most people batman or silver jug to the second bolt (i.e. the original first bolt) although it can be freed at very thin 25ish. A very enjoyable and popular outing on some of the best rock at the crag. A hold snapped late 2015 making the moves past the 2nd last bolt a little harder, but doesn't change the grade.

Right hand route off the fifth access log. As for Loop, then traverse hard right clipping an independent third bolt and up. Wanders around a bit but don't get too confused and end up of Barnstorming.

Barnstorming to Hot Flyer share the same start.

As for 'Hot Flyer' and 'Weekend Warrior', then left a bit and up to where a wide orange streak is passed with, umm, difficulty.

The original start to HF offers 95% independent climbing. Start as for Hot Flyer for 2m then left and up wall and flake to chain lower-off in halfway break. Does not share any bolts with HF.

Lower off after slab

Super popular. This is the way the route is usually climbed these days (in one pitch, all the way to the top lower-offs). Go left at the top (direct through the bulge isn't as nice - see below).

Climbs right past a fixed hanger at the crux.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Good fun. Straight up, starting on the right side of the left of the two gum trees.

Super popular. Start behind the right of the two gums. Up to lower-off at break. As per usual, please do not top-rope directly through anchors.

1.5m right of Jack High. Up slab (techy start!) to anchors on ledge.

1.5m right of Jack High. Up slab to anchors on ledge, but keep going up the big L-facing corner up high.

Start just right of FF. At the third bolt, you can go either way. Good solid climbing with a few tricky bits.

Up Girly Germs to the second bolt and go right. Committing finish.

"You cant re-bolt an old open project and claim it as your own" - BC. Originally a Mike Law project and then passed on to Jark who rebolted it! "Reclaimed" by Ben Cossey, set free from the shackles of believed rock ownership and fat bums.

Start: As for 'Sexi Mexi' then through rooflet to lower offs. Not so good if you are 'really' short...unless you are 'really' powerful!!

The next four routes share the same start (two steel rungs as steps to begin).

The left-most route sharing the start of Language, finishing at lower-off beneath rooflet.

As for LOD to second ring, step L, follow rings (long slings), then find a way through the overlap at its right end and onto the headwall above (rings) where things get interesting.

The original classic here. It's easy to get off route with four routes branching from the same start. This is the only one to finish up the headwall on FHs. A medium cam between bolt 6 and 7 is helpful (BD #1).

The right anchor staple is quite worn and could do with replacement.

Excellent sustained crimping. As for Language, heading right at third bolt.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

A few metres to the right of Language at the large boulder. Up trending left.

As previous then straight up.

Start as for previous route, traverse right to 'War Babies' anchor then up!

Popular and sequency. Start off right end of the boulder.

Starts just right of 'War Babies' and joins 'War Babies' just before the ledge. Not as good as 'War Babies' and not any easier.

2m R of DALD beneath carrot. There's a few more carrots. Take #3.5 SLCD.

The vegetated flake, with a carrot at 8m. Dirty.

Medium cams to carrot, then up past undercling flake.

The yellow streak. Fun. Rings.

Please watch where you place your feet at the start and when lowering, to avoid crushing the drosera.

All rings. Looks lichenous but climbs really well.

2m R of DAC. Not good.

2m R again at the closed flake above R end of boulders. 2 pitches?!

Rings. Left of the 'Grey Slab' down on the main track Short little thing up to the R end of the half-height vegetated ledge with hidden anchor.

Left of Grey Slab ledge starting down on the main track. This is a mixed route that requires cams (BD #0.5, 1, 0.4). Careful of the half-tonne block perched at halfway.

As its name suggests, it is the prominent grey slab near the descent from the gated Fire Trail at the end of Centennial Glen Rd. Easy routes, some with rings, and some with carrot bolts. All have lower-off's.

Off the ledge to the left of the dead tree. Ringbolts. Good!

Carrot bolts! Starts at the left of the two white gums.

Follows the obvious orange streak up the middle of the wall. Ringbolts.

Carrot bolts!

Ringbolts.

Ringbolts. The L rap ring on the anchor is now worn about a quarter through, still fine but may need replacement soonish. Until then, consider rotating it before loading so your rope wears on a different spot to extend its life.

Stickclip if you are short (tricky start). Ringbolts. There is a loose ~10kg block at halfway: keep people clear below and try not to dislodge it.

The line of ringbolts at far right of wall. New anchor 2015.

In winter the first four routes here get the sun before 8 AM, if you're looking for a warmer warm up when the rest of the crag is still shaded.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

The best easy sport route at the crag. All rings.

Rings, just to the right of Pompadour.

Tucked just left of Sandwiches. The first bolt is now a ring, permitting stick clipping, then 4 carrots to lower-offs. Feels a bit squeezed in, but climbs logically when bearing in mind that this predates HotYH.

The undercut buttress has a white/yellow streak down its left side. This is it. High first bolt over the rooflet, then sustained climbing up the gently overhung orange wall. Popular.

Through the choss beneath the overhang. On the giant U-bolts. Infrequently visited.

Steep and bouldery through the roof. Fun jugging.

Start directly below first bolt and blast over bulge via undercling.

Avoids the crux on PoP by climbing right past two rings to lower-offs under mini roof. Rebolted 2019.

Just right of POPV, out roof on really great rock. Boulder and toe hook, slap and lob up to anchors of POPV. Coach bolts - they are total death.

At the far right end of the overhang. Starts on the block. A couple of nice roof moves and then it's done.

To the right of the Pallets of Pies cave is a shorter and juggier section of vertical wall. This is best used as a bouldering area with a few fun traverses and up problems in the caves. Gets an hour or so of extra shade compared to the main wall. It's short enough and with good flat landings that a bouldering pad isn't really required. There are a lot of worn holds but not a lot of chalk apart from the major traverse line.

10m right of Gallows Humour. Stump and wall right of corner

Traverse left to right on the undercut chalked horizontal break. Popular.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Start left of steps up roof. Swing through the left side of the roof then either continue to the top on unpleasant ironstone (as per the original "route"), or traverse the lip, or reverse.