Einträge in Logan Brae

Short, steep and pumpy.

The access to this cliff is through private property and the situation is delicate. Privacy, environmental impact, safety and the parking situation are of serious concern to the landowners. They are allowing access to continue for the time being but their patience is surely being tested. See "Access issues" below. The conditions of access and the parking restrictions are not optional. Please don't stuff it up.

Remember, the land owners are not inviting you onto their land; if you enter take full personal responsibility for yourself and your actions (and any accidents). Almost all routes here require a hefty stick-clip of a high first bolt. There is nasty drop below most routes - either the climber or belayer should be clipped into something at all times to avoid a major catastrophe.

Need a toilet? Never crap at the crag or around the carpark. Please use the brand new public toilet located at Hargraves Lookout (2.3km past the Logan Brae carpark).

Thanks to Simon Carter for providing this information from the 2019 Blue Mountains Climbing guidebook. Check https://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/ for latest information.

Best “gym” in the mountains.

An ugly duckling that climbs well. Far left route of the crag sharing the start and first bolt with Room with a View. Only has a single bolt as a lower-off. Don't try and cheat the last move - Mikl has made sure that's not possible!

The best warm up here.

Two boulders split by jugs.

Bouldery start to awesome finale.

Bouldery start to monkey juggery.

RB's up overhanging juggy wall and through the roof

Excellent pumpy climbing up the wall, through the roof, and on to the slab above.

Quite squeezy through the bulge unfortunately. Probably climbs best if you can keep your blinkers on and stay really direct above the 4th & 5th bolts, to keep it entirely independent of both neighbouring routes. But its worthwhile whichever holds you use.

Short but it packs a punch for the length! The busted 3rd bolt has been replaced. - P.T

Start as for WBB but head right and up. Hard.

Start up juggy rooflet, then some good rock and powerful climbing right up until the anchors.

Grovel through the dirt or batman.

The obvious link into VD at the 3rd bolt has been done ("Demented Cabbage", same grade, FRA D. O'Donnell 2006).

One of the best and most sustained of the grade in the mountains. Nothing too cruxy, but relentless climbing that will keep you honest all the way to the anchors.

Lower pocket crux then jugs to an oddly placed anchor. Continuing up Vertical Dementia improves it.

Short steep little arete. Low crux then lots of jugs and a runout to the anchor.

The crag classic!!

Crux down low but plenty of funky holds and tricky moves to keep you pumping all the way to the top.

Just squeezed in but still popular for the grade. Good, funky Logan Brae climbing with some holds that seep. Some filling down the bottom, no drilling.

First bolt as for EIEIO then bust out right and up.

Start just right of EIEIO. Follow the chalk up through the jugs to finish at the giant U. If the moss above doesn't turn you off a good finish is to quest onwards to the Shark Pool anchors.

Has been linked into Shark Pool at the 4th bolt ("Flake Maker", maybe adds a grade, FRA D. O'Donnell 2006).

Some fairly large moves on some less large holds. Careful of the veg at the start.

Short, juggy, fun.

The landowners currently are allowing access but ONLY under the following conditions.

• Stay on the track, no shortcuts.
• Do not enter any other part of the property.
• Do not damage vegetation. Respect regeneration.
• No dogs.
• No littering.
• No fires.
• No cairns.
• No camping.
• No overnight parking.

PARKING RESTRICTIONS: Please also strictly adhere to the parking guidelines, these are not optional:

• Strictly, no more than four (4) cars are to park in the main parking area. No large vans.
• DO NOT park at the pull-off 80m back down the hill towards Blackheath
• DO NOT park anywhere further up the hill!
• And DO NOT park anywhere on the right (northern) side of the road!

Consider car-pooling. If the parking spaces are full go somewhere else!

If we observe these guidelines, then this access might remain usable for longer. Educate your mates.

Note: There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', further up the road, under any circumstances. Info in the 2010 guidebook, and earlier editions, is out of date, see https://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/ for latest information.

Funky 3D climbing on incredibly slippery rock. Was once grade 21! Rebolted 2019.

Right trending line up marbled rock 1m right of DMW. Distinct crux near the top on crimps. Named in memory of climber Anthony Harris - RIP.

Starts 4m right of Dead Man Walking at log start. Similar to Mountain Ant on water washed featured rock and a distinct crux above the bulge.

The next 2 climbs are about 80m right of the main area. They are up in a large overhang, accessed via a short scramble with rungs.

Thin, steep and sharp. A false start then some really good moves.

Shared start with HTTBC then after the 5th bolt bam out right and up.

The lower cliff line below 'Logan Brae' 'Main Wall'

Rap in, climb out. Old bolt holes viable but unnecessary as it is protectable on gear. Starts left of Grit Downunder, on left side of ledge. Boulders start leads to the odd runout sections and scoopy crux.. Very hard 23 ....

Great climbing up a right-hand fused flake, after a cruxy face.

Half-dozen Cams and wires - classic old school Blue Mountains 23 . . . Love it . . .

Start: Find the carrot on the shelf 2/3rds of the way along main wall, and rap in to ledge with big tree. Start in faint corner on left.