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Einträge in Hoppy's Cave

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Eintrag
Hoppy's Cave

THIS AREA IS ON PRIVATE PROPERTY!!!

Climbing in the cave is quite unique. Some love it, others hate it. The rock can be sharp and the holds hard to find. Most of the routes are super steep and can be climbed in heavy rain. Beware of beehives.

16 Goanna Walk

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

20 J Wilde route

Starts on the outside of the cave. Batman to first bolt then climb past first set of anchors to second.

24 D Wilde route

As for J Wilde route, but boulder the start to first set of anchors. Just guessing at grade.

26/27 Vulcanian

Start in the back of the cave, out to rooflet and up via interesting holds to the sting in the tail and double bolt anchor.

25 The 14th Phalange

Fixed hangers and rings. Starts 2m right of Vulcanian, 2m left of Toast, out independent line to join toast at it's last bolt.

25 Toasted link

Start as for Toast, clipping it's first ring, then head out left, out pipers new line to finish at Toast anchor... or keep going!

25 Toast

Start 5m from edge of cave, there is a hex bolt low if needed to start. Out horizontal roof, then directly up as angle eases to lower off.

26 Karma Gettin

One for the budding pumpers. Climb Toast, then head straight up past 4 RB's to start of a diagonal ramp. Route then moves up right along ramp for 2 RB's. From here blast straight up and around a cruxy bulge to anchors with wire gate lower-offs. 12 rings in total.

25 Troglodyte (Pitch 1)

Undercut start 2m right of Toast. Trends up and right to 2 ring bolt lower off. 6 ring bolts & 2 more 4 lower off.

25 Troglodyte (Pitch 2)

Better rock and steeper moves can be found in this upper section of Troglodyte. Climb left then up forever from the anchors of pitch 1. Linking both pitches from the ground may not have been done yet?

30 Jason's Misanthropic Newcastle Development Plan

PYP into second pitch of Troglodyte, continuing into the end of COH

26 Pulling the Troglodytes Plonka

Climb PYP to the plonka, then go left to join troglodyte below the anchors of pitch 1. Climb 2 bolts of trog pitch 2 before climbing up and right past a fixed hanger to independent anchors (seized wiregates). Shenanigans to avoid terrible rope drag.

24 Pull Ya Plonka

Up the overhanging, leftward trending wall past purple coloured sheild, up to the "plonka" at the semi-rest then trough another overhang to lower off in cave.

26 Mrs Troglodyte

Climb PYP, past it's crux. Then head hard left through small stalactite, steep but good holds. Joins in the last part of Troglodyte second pitch. A number of the draws need to be extended more than you'd think to make life easier.

27 Sugar Monster

An endurance resistance monster! Climb "Pull ya Plonka" then continue along the massive overhang to finish 5m left of the black leg anchors. Take long draws and about 4x 600mm slings

29 Sugar Habit

Climb Sugar Monster to anchors, then continue out to the left to finish as for Creature of Habit.

23 Young and dumb

Starts with the ring on the sloping lip. Right of Pull ya,head out towards the centre of the cave, tricky move under the lip. Head up towards the pink threader. Easiest of the 23's here!

22 Left Traverse

Prob the easiset warm-up in the cave. Starting 2m left of black leg, mantle up and traverse out left to the edge of the cave.

25 M1 Black Leg Miner (Alternate Start)

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

23 Pudding Pullers

A great introduction to climbing in the cave. Finishes on the obvious laydown ledge. Historical name restored.

24 Black Leg Minor - Pitch 2

Start on the high pedestal 2m to right of lie-down cave on BLM. 2 bolts and 2 moves to the cave. Continue to anchors on BLM. May be the same as 'BLM Alternative start' 25M1 except it's not aid, and as it's technically a bit easier than Legless Miner gave it 24, even though one is still doing the crux of BLM (last bolt and clip).

25 Black Leg Miner

A great line taking in the whole roof. Has a small cave a 1/3 of the way. Start at the back left hand end of cave, follow rings to first cave, then step out around stalactite and contine on what seems like a never ending roof.

26 Long Wall Mining

Start on the small pedestal as for BLM alt start, head out left between stalactite and small cave, head out staying just right of "Sugar Monster"

24 Legless Miner

Starts at the Fresh Gording ledge and links up with Black Leg Miner to finish on the same anchors.

27 Legless Miner Full Extension

Legless miner, continuing into COH

26 Flesh Gording

Start in the very back of cave, some sharp holds lead to some funky knee baring and roof moves.

28 Creature of Habit

Prob the longest route in the cave. Sent in classic Jase style with about 25 knee bars, maybe a few less for regular folks! Start by climbing Flesh Gording, then keep traversing left past anchors of Long Wall Mining and Sugar Monster, going all the way out to the lip (day light) of the whole cave. Be careful, there is a lot of bird guano and dust up towards the end and some lose rock.

28 Special Internal Shine Time

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

23 Pigeons Don't Pinch

Start as for PFN- up block then climb right around and under roof to anchors of Trotters Trifecta 2. A short route worthwhile in its own right.

23 Pigeon Fancers Nightmare

Start at back of cave near pinkish rock. Up easily to clip first bolt from ledge then climb out rib via good pocket heading left around to anchors of BLM. Can keep going left and all the way out to lip of cave. Back climb to clean.

25 Trotters Trifecta 2

The horizontal roof with a steep finish, move right to anchors.

27 Pinching Pidgeons

Climb Trotter's Trifecta 2 to anchors, then keep traversing out right pinching and kneebar to anchors at lip of cave.

27 On The Prow

Climb the hanging prow to finish on Pinching Pigeons. Batman to first ring then head out on the pockets to a big dyno.

26 Wildie's Warmup

Sharp, tough start from ground up to an easier finish. Straight up, starting 4m left of PP start U. Might be a warm-up if you batman to the first bolt.

22 Wilde's Poo Warm up

Start as for Powdered Poo finishing on Wildie's Warmup. A more pleasant warmup.

24 Osama's Bin bolting

Start as for PP, but head up and left before the rest, some tricky foot shenanigans to transition from rising traverse to vertical wall. From good holds, blast straight up to a pumpy finish with Wiregate Loweroffs. Top can be wet in the rain.

22 Powdered Poo

The arching left line finishing in the small cave with the nest of white goodness.

22 Unnamed

Just right of Wildie's Warmup, straight up, can lower off WW, but the extension is a project through the roof.

16 Baby Belayer

Start 4m right of Powdered Poo, up past a 3 fixed hangers to lower off in roof. Easiest warm-up and stays dry in any rain!!

19 Baby chicken

Start at DBB before dropping down to terrace, as for CD. Continue up left leaning line to anchors in roof as for Baby Belayer

The Terrace

Walk up through the cave and rap/descend from anchors down to the ledge (easy grade 8 climb out)

The Terrace
21 Chicken dance

Starting from the double bolts at the right hand end of cave, go straight up staying left of face till the wall gets to steep then traverse onto the face out right and up to lower offs.

20 Got that Phelan feeling

The standard warm up if the weather is good. Start from the pedestal ledge on he the top right of the cave. Traverse out to gain good hold then continue straight up, past horizontal break to top.

21 Phelan kicked (link up)

Start off pedestal above terrace but traverse out onto just kick it

22 Just kick it

first route to start at lower level, closest to cave.

23 Hoppy

Intricate and thin start. The roof is a little chossy.

22 Route with a high first bolt and goes through roof

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

17 Carrots

Line of hex bolts. First one up on this little wall. Stops at ledge.

24 The Manic Barista

Do any of the Terrace routes to get to the Double U bolt belay at the top of Carrots. From Double U Bolts, a deceptive line follows a rising traverse left from anchor to clip fixed hanger. Waiting for you is bouldery roof moves up to another fixed hanger. Clip a ringbolt, put on a stiff upper lip and then run it out to anchors, on albeit easier ground. Great climbing, but make sure your warmed up before taking this one on!

24 upper tier, crack over carrots

clip the anchors of route on carrots and keep going up the steep wall on RBs

22 Flat White

The thin line in the middle of a beautiful white wall on hangers. This crimpy test piece climb, has seen many tears shed from wanna be leaders thinking they will waltz up it. Stick clip 1st hanger, a technical thin start on bad feet guard the 2nd anchor, nice moves up and across right to 3rd. Take care when clipping 3rd hanger. Then head straight up wall to 4th and ledge. Shares double U bolt loweroff of Carrots

22 Long Black

The right hand route on terrace, adjacent to large flake. Stay on line of ringbolts and dont stray over right to easier ground for full value. Has ring bolts above on ledge, requiring abseiling to clean, due to poor rock quality.

22 Red Eye Sleep Deprivation Torture

Start in corner at end of terrace, as for Terrace Attack. Through several ledges to half way ledge, then up at bolt in roof, traversing left to bolt and up orange rock to anchors.

18 Terrace Attack

Start in corner and up to half way ledge. At bolt in roof large holds lead up towards arête. Continue up arête then ever left to shared anchors

12 Lumbing

Starts just above track at ground level and heads up corner to finish at the right hand end of the ledge of Cave right.

8 Hexham

On the way to the Terrace. 6 hex bolts from the ground 10m to the right of Lumbing. Double U bolt anchors just below the Terrace extension.

23 Espresso

Up the orange coloured rock to stance under steep wall, move up and out right to finish as for Decaf

Trackside cave

Just right of the slab access to the main cave is a small overhang with 3 routes

Trackside cave
23 Boulder on a Leash

Start up left side of cave and at 3 rd bolt traverse right above roof. Single bolt anchor. A bolt plate and bolt between second and third bolt can protect moves to third bolt. A long sling on 5 th bolt recommended.

Centre route

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

20 Jonah's route

Start up the route on FHs at right of cave, and half way up move left via RB to finish on anchors of Project

17 Rapping with the BlackBoy

Start just to the right of the cave at a grass tree. Up on good holds to DBB

Lower left of cave

Approch as per the cave, but instead of climbing into cave, head left about 60m to a black wall at the same level.

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