Einträge in The Pinnacles

From the mountain carpark take the lookout track. This ascends some stairs at a water tower past a rusty boiler and then along a flat track. All the pinnacles are downhill to the left of the track- the town side. The first small pinnacle is 20 metres along. The remainder are after you walk under a cliff on the right of the track. Most climbs are on the town facing side and get afternoon sun. Climbs for each pinnacle are described from carpark side towards lookout side of pinnacle.

On the left of the higher walking track- the first small pinnacle. Can be approached easier from lower walking track. past old water tower. About 50 metres from car park.

The scramble up the back of the pinnacle. Not sure why it has bolts, but could be good for kiddies or used to set up top rope.

Start on left wall, left of slightly misplaced bolts and after second bolt head right to, and around arete. To shared chain on top of pinnacle

A mixture of bolts due to the habit of this rock chewing up drill bits. Now fully bolted and safe to lead. Undercut start trending left past 2nd bolt. Finish on old chain anchor or new anchor to right.

The rock that is, used 4new drill bits. Great moves to nice easy finish on slab. The route that starts under the right leaning crack

The second pinnacle, large balanced rock on top. Approach by walking to top of next pinnacle (warty tree) and around both rather than down gully between them.

Start up chimney to right of Venting, walk across top of block leftwards then out clipping 3 bolts on ELL and STD to sling tree and anchors of Dans 24.

On the right of the trench on south side of pinnacle, closest to track

Start right of ELL in large chasm. Chimney up left side (long sling on chockstone) then continue to ledge and up overhang crack. Stretch left to clip anchors on ELL.

On the left of trench, shared start then veer right on smal holds to shared anchors at top

Shared start up flake feature steeping left into seam, over bulge to shared finish

Powerful moves up undercut start to ledge at half height, then easier climbing to anchors above second ledge

Start 1m right of the prominent bolted groove.Up white seam and through roof passing 5 bolts to ledge, and continue up juggy common upper wall to anchors

Up open corner past hard moves at 4th bolt. Ignore anchors to left, step right and continue up the finish of Dans face climb

After surmounting groove (crux) instead of stepping right continue up arete and head onto left following homemade fixed hangers and slighly friable rock.

After first 5 bolts of the crack step left to DBB. CLimb up orange overhung wall.

Follow trad groove/crack system past first set of anchors at 12m, up left hand crack to anchors on top. 28m to ground.

From near lowest part of pinnacle amble up diagonal the reach left and onto wall. Pumpy moves past 2 bolts then up, moving slightly right into corner then slab and anchors to left

The extension to this has been bolted and is still a project

Continue up route on carrots (4) then 2 old RBs then 6 new ones, past first set of anchors to anchors ontop of pinnacle. A 70m rope will just get you down.

Start in middle of grass tree stand. Up groove and onto R face before heading left back to arete. Shared anchor on ledge.

Start to the left of the grass tree cluster. Joins the route to the right around arete at about 5 th bolt, unless you have some trad gear with you. Spaced bolting.

Start 1m right of BB and head up prow. 2-3 small cams (under finger size) needed for middle section to ledge to avoid retrobolting. Then pass 2 more bolts to right of flake to anchors

Starts up thin crack on north side of pinnacle. Belay on ledge and rap off to climbers left. Not a good lead for beginners due to average gear.

Start 1m left of BB at white face, trending left past first 4 bolts then up to anchors.

Thin wall 5m right of Bulahdelah Flyways

Up the gully from BB. Climbs the old abseil line, descent from tree. Thin start and a bitrun out to anchors.

Third pinnacle, close to second. Flat top and no anchors on either route. Can sling large block on top of pinnacle

The arete in front of large warty tree. 2 carrots and 2 ring bolts. Can now use lower offs from VW project to left. Take care getting to 2nd RB.

Up right side of buttress on RBs. The hanging arete is challenging but contrived

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Up the grey groove on sketchy looking gear

Fourth pinnacle. Quite wide, the brushed streak of the first two climbs is visible from the track. Go down hill as for Bellybutton and warty tree pinnacles and contour across and around downhill side of pinnacle for other routes

The diagonal left wards crack finishing on anchors of ROR

Up crack then onto flake, passing two old 1/2 inch bolts with homemade hangers.

Up brushed slab, second route uphill of the crack. Shares same anchors

Nicely angled slab climbing, a little run out but safe.

The trad crack left of the bolted slab. Rusty chain anchor on ledge after Pitch 1 or continue to top and rap off tree near the route to the right

Just around arete from Not Lichen It, on carpark side of town facing (downhill) wall. Up through small cave and through the steepening wall to tough move to pull onto slab.

Up the initial flake on gear, then 3 fixed hangers to chain in small gully.

Only 2 bolts in lower crux, top cleaned.

Along the low flake past 2 hangers then up through bulges. It finises at last bolt, or continue up vegetation to shared anchors on top and rappel off.

Start on the arete, up on thin holds to stance before groove. Up some thin moves in groove to pumpy top.

Start just right of corner, up steep wall, the move out onto arete after 4th bolt. Lower off ontop of pinicale.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Start left of tree, perhaps stickclip second bolt to avoid decking when clipping. Can use a smallish cam or medium wire can add protection at the break

Starts to the left of the tree near chimney- second climb along. Up diagonal crack to dog leg, a cam handy here before second bolt. Zig zag up wall coming very close to African route in middle before heading left again. Finish on anchors of African route

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Immediately trackside there is a small pinnacle with one route on the town facing side. It is above the gully between lichen pinnacle and jumpstart pinnacle.

Step to base of pinnacle then follow 3 bolts to anchors. Finish with hands on top of pinnacle to make the effort of getting the rope out worth it!

Fifth pinnacle. The next big pinnacle north along, most climbs on lookout/Pickpocket wall side. The baby pinnacle is tucked in at its base and 2 routes start atop this, or climb the easy route up the baby pinnacle first.

Interesting climbing to the R side of the arete, straight up through several bulges to lower off.

Start as for arete but at second last bolt 9on route head left along airy travere to finish at anchors above small pinnacle

Up past 3 fixed hangers then out left to ring the step back onto block.

Clip bolt then step across chasm and into bolted crack

Step off the top of the block, the right hand route.

Tough move to get past 3rd bolt then keep moven.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Sixth pinnacle, at base of 5th

The small slab on the left of the white cave. Able to walk off top or continue up 2nd pitch to lower off at top of cliff.

Small pinnacle with scoop in the centre. Climbs on downhill side. Described left to right.

to the left of the Bill and Ben scoop on the little weed pinnacle. Has its own anchor

The middle route on the small pinicale. Up slab and right of the small cave.

Right side of small pinicale. Slab to start then thin moves to lower off.

Downhill from Little Weed pinnacle, 3 routes on overhanging face. Another block to its north has no routes as yet.

The thin left route on the boulder down hill.

The middle route on the downhill boulder. Up to break then right up sloping ramp to jug then back to anchors.

The lower route on this boulder. Up steadily to second bolt then tough moves to shared finish and anchors.