Routen in Bungonia Gorge für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Large sized choss glazed with micro-choss, utterly petrifying.

1. 20m (19) "Up the thin wall to the big ledge." Nobody can work out where this pitch goes. Nothing in the area looks remotely sensible as a ground up boltless onsight. 80s climbers were tough!

2. 45m (20) Follows discontinuous crack features up dirty rock with a few death-blocks thrown in. The belay/rap is a bunch of archaic slings tied through a massive bombproof thread.

The next line right with four spaced FHs. Apparently there is no rap anchor so after the last bolt and below the overlap traverse left a long way to rap anchors above Pulsar.

Up the slab past three bolts to ledge and tree.

An alpine mega classic. Long loose and natural. Finishes at the highest point on the cliff, the Cooee Lookdown. Take plenty of long slings and big friends.

Start: A chipped square marks the start.

1. 45m (20) Delicate moves up the slab to a series of ledges. Move leftwards into the corner and up it. A steep pull onto the ledge leads to the anchors.

2. 45m (20) Up 2m, then follow holds leading right. Continue right to a corner in the overlap (wires). Over this (crux) to easier ground and tree. Trend leftwards, through overlap at 6m, then onto belay 8m above.

3. 50m (16) Left to a corner, up this and through the overlap. Up the ramp to a tree.

4. 50m (12) Scrub bash up the ramp to a tree.

5. 45m (13) Deciding when to move right is tricky. Up for 10m. Move right on ledges, over and across some loose big blocks, moving horizontally right. Belay at the top of a block at the foot of the orange rock with some corners above.

6. 30m (18) Much steeper, but well protected. Step right and up the corner. Over some choss, left a touch then up the next corner to belay.

7. 50m (20) This pitch wanders, is fairly run out, and has a hard pockety start. Beware rope drag. Up over the bulge and trend right. Weave rightwards to avoid the very steep stuff, then step up and trend horizontally left to the splitter crack. Follow this corner up, then step right onto the ramp and set up belay in the cave.

8. 50m (17 M1) (17A1) Scramble rightwards past a large stalactite to the end of the ramp. Drop down and right to a ledge at the base of the corner with the bolt in it. Aid past the bolt to a high #4 friend. This can be freed at grade 23. Pull onto easy ground and up this to a big overhang with large pockets. Move delicately up and rightwards onto the wall. Go up and over right to a #4 tube chock in a neat pocket. Now up the corner to the old lookout.

Storm Front basically runs to the right of Evolution. Nasty loose blocks on ledges, very dirty rock, and vegetation filled cracks are the selling points of this gem. The climb either starts up Evolution, or 5m right (up the horrible hole thing), no idea which start is correct. On pitch 1 there is a 10m wide, delicate, rock arch/flake that you actually climb through (about 40m up, can be seen from the creek bed). "The last two pitches are not recommended" (first ascentionists)....a more objective view might be that the last seven pitches are not recommended!

1. 45m (20) Up the flake?, step left and up to a ledge, traverse 3m left, up, then right through the obvious arch on the right. Now up to the belay.

2. 40m (20) Slightly left to a tree bowl and climb the steep wall at the rear (seriously scary stuff here. Loose blocks, dirty rock, and vegetated cracks). Go to where the crack splits, left is Red Heat, right is 'Storm Front'. Up the right crack and over a block to belay on nuts.

3. 40m (20) Follow up the crack.

4. 40m (17) Up the easy crack above to big cave (probably the same as Red Heat here).

5. 35m (20) Go left from the left side of the cave on a rising traverse left to a ledge.

6. 40m (21) From the right edge of the ledge, go straight up to a bolt and nuts, then up and right (crux) to a tree belay.

7. 30m (10) Continue easily to the top.

Start about 30m upstream of Polenta Pumper. Scramble up easy flowstone to small ledge covered in vines. Sketchy flowstone choss for 6m to reach crack, then up major corner to belay ledge. Not recommended until bolts added to start.

Jabba the Slut, stopping at the ringbolt under the roof. A good warm up if you get dragged up here on a 5 degree day.

To the right of Gilding The Lily. Finishes just under the roof at half height.

The top is down and right (facing out) of the top of 'In the Realm of the Senses'. Rap in from 'In the Realm of the Senses' anchor, but using a directional bolt on the nearby arete to get to double rings at the base.

Up a dirty loose crack on natural gear and then some nice face climbing (ring bolts).

Start on the face and right side of the arete, behind a large tree. Very high first bolt - stick clip recommended. Upper third is a bit odd... Nice climbing to be had direct up the bulge, but the third bolt is actually hidden down and right behind a small bush and the route finishes with a traverse across to the rings on Angry Ants.

The contrived line of bolts furthest left, just left of the arete.

Marked start. Good climbing throughout (especially up the arete up high), but with a low crux with tricky protection.

This routes starts in a water runnel directly below three holes.Climb up and right towards the steel hanger. Then continue up to top out. A #2 Camalot is handy for the crux move below the steel hanger

Sit starting on large block to the right. Traverse left, then up via obvious features. Try not to dab!

Sit starting on same block as Dabling Bottom. RH to good crimp, rock up on heel to triangular pocket to top out.

Sit start matched on block then move right into the crack. Follow crack up and right.

Start matched on slopey rail and then up.

Sit start on arete. And top out

Sit start and straight up.

Sit start and straight up.

Sit start straight up.

Sit start straight up.

Sit start straight up.

Sit start straight up.

Stand start and up the slab.

Sitstart

Sit start with right hand in slot.

Sit start with left hand in slot and using right arete.

Sit start and straight up blocks to top out.

Sit start and straight up the wall.

Sit start on the big side pull over the void. Move straight up to top out.

Stand start and straight up.

Stand start and straight up.

Stand start and up the right arete.