Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill | |||||
20 | ★★ Yellow Brick Road
14m L of notch. Generic, but clean slab climbing past 3 black FHs to the base of bulge, which sports the final 2 FHs. This overhung section hosts a vital two-finger pocket and makes for quite a stunning conclusion. Finish at rap station at small stance. Watch out for ants in the pockets. Erstbegehung: Lee Cujes, Stephen Parker & Erik Smits, 2000 | 25m, 5 | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown | |||||
20 | Imaginary Invalid
Start at the left arête of the above mentioned slab. Head up to the large flake past two BR's. The third BR is out on the L on top of the flake, a medium cam is required out to the R. Follow the line of least resistance past seven BR's to chain belay. Erstbegehung: Alistair Byrom, Ken Cox & M. Byrom | 45m | |||
20 | ★ Unknown 5
Another direct start just R of I'll be Bach. This time up slab past three BR's to hole and BR. Erstbegehung: Unknown | 35m | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville Spot X | |||||
20 | Outfox
2m R. Just R of the overhung barrel. This route wanders up the slab, trending R before picking through a steeper section searching for good holds. About 9 FH’s to anchors. Very chossy. Erste freie Begeh.: Duncan Steel, 2013 | 25m, 10 | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville Vesuvius | |||||
20 | ★ Plinian Eruption
Careful on loose but easy corner for 10m. Then interesting moves with hidden holds on good rock. 9 FHs to shared anchor with Pyroclastic. Good, but a bit runout and ledgy, take care. Erste freie Begeh.: Erik Smits, 2014 | 25m, 9 | |||
Northern Rivers Angel Way Dragons Lair | |||||
20 | the Art of Meditation
Erste freie Begeh.: Za Utopia, 3 Jun 2014 | ||||
Northern Rivers Lillian Rock Hanging Rock Falls | |||||
V1 | ★★ Hanging Arete | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ The Nimbin Shuffle
Traverse the length of the wall starting from platform to right of falls. Some fun moves with an early crux. Be careful not to fall near the end as the water gradually becomes more shallow. Erstbegehung: Moby, Apr 2023 | 10m | |||
Northern Rivers Byron Lowtide Boulders | |||||
V2 | ★ Pirates of the Pancreas
Sit start on jugs low and right on the boulder. Trend diagonally left up the boulder to top out the left arete Erstbegehung: Mitch Woodward | ||||
Northern Rivers Byron Lowtide Boulders Life bouy rocks | |||||
V1 | Breaking Rock
Sit start on jugs and continue straight up and top out. Careful of breaking rock Erstbegehung: Ben Send | 3m | |||
V1 | Pinkies traverse
Start as far right as possible and traverse left untill you hit the start of Dumb Decisions Erstbegehung: Ben Send | ||||
Northern Rivers Boonoo Boonoo Falls | |||||
V1 | Asshole in the Middle of your Back
Up the right corner, with fun bridging off a finger sized crack. Deadpoint the jug and top out toward the left. Start: While facing 'Bunny Nuggets', turn around and walk into the gully to the left. The right most corner before the short slab. Erstbegehung: Dan Roe, 2008 | ||||
V1 | Bunny Nuggets
Sit start at the base of obvious crack. Erstbegehung: Dan Roe?, 2008 | ||||
Northern Rivers Surf Rock | |||||
20 | Dragon teeth
start 2m R of ITM up small wall over roof. Sharp edges cut through my 11mm rope when top roping... Erstbegehung: Za Utopia, 2013 | 15m | |||
V1 | ★ Fish guts arête
Sit start the left arête of the overhanging boulder. Left hand on corner of the arete and right in a pocket lower down, may need to squat if small. Burly moves for the grade through a series of pockets, crimps staying on the right face using the arête to the top of the boulder. Erstbegehung: Taliesin St. john, 8 Jul 2021 | 3m | |||
Northern Rivers Lighthouse beach | |||||
V2 | ★ A1
start seated on block | ||||
V2 | ★ A3
Up left hand layback crack, around following crack to join A2. | ||||
V1 | ★★ A4
From shield follow twin hourglass cracks to large rails in centre of steep face, up to find pockets ontop. | ||||
V1 | ★ A6
Thrutchy wide corner crack. | ||||
V2 | ★ A10
Traverse along break. | ||||
V2 | ★★ A11.
| ||||
V1 | ★★ A12.
| ||||
V1 | ★ A13.
Standing start, smear and slap. | ||||
V1 | Behave you bastards
On same boulder as A15. Squat start on horizontal crack. Toe hook to mantle top out. Erstbegehung: Jeff G | 2m | |||
V1 | Ya dickhead
Sit start. From crimpy horizontal ledge on overhang to crimpy flake above. Mantle to top out. Adjacent boulder is out. Erstbegehung: artie G | 2m | |||
V1 | B2
Middle of face | ||||
V1 | B3
Blunt arete. | ||||
V1 | B6
Avoid small block on right at feet, bad landing. | ||||
V1 | ★ Slabs on toast
Balancie.. moving right wards up the face Erstbegehung: Krishna | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Direct left
Avoiding the cracks on both side and moving straight up from the jug into the thin side pull and to the horizontal break at the top of the wall. Fun Erstbegehung: Krishna | 3m | |||
V1 | Egg nostril
On the left face Erstbegehung: Gopal Thorburn | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ C2
Will need a good spot! | ||||
V1 | ★★ C3
Highball. Layaway large suspect looking hanging block to jugs and a reach to top, then victory pocket. | ||||
V1 | ★ C5
Start on sharp block in corner, up left face with some bridging for feet. | ||||
V1 | ★ C6
Small arete, some loose rock in corner at top. | ||||
V2 | D4
Thin dirty face. | ||||
V2 | ★ D10
Hug and crimp to mantel. | ||||
V2 | E1
Dirty, Avoid blocks either side. Loose at top on right side, stay in middle or left at top! | ||||
V2 | ★ E2
Nice. Up face to pocket. | ||||
V2 | F3
Weird and scary! | ||||
V1 | F4
| ||||
V2 | F5
Slab | ||||
V2 | G1
From break to sloper side pull and jugs up arete. | ||||
V1 | G4
From crack up jugs, straight up. | ||||
V1 | J1
Layaway | ||||
V2 | ★ J4
Up cracks from block at feet. To large pocket, was better before rock arrived after storm. | ||||
V1 | J7
Jam | ||||
V1 | ★ J8
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V1 | J10
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V2 | ★ J16
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V2 | ★ J19
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V1 | J20
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Northern Rivers Joggly point cave | |||||
V1 | ★ Wet Blanket
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V1/2 | Lost at Sea
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V1 | Slippery Mitch
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Northern Rivers Turners beach | |||||
V1 | Over the crabs
Sit start on the left of the face, on the crimpy bubbly ledge. Make your way to the right and top out Erstbegehung: Pierrix, 21 Feb 2023 | 3m | |||
V2 | Snobbing the ocean
Sit start the obvious ledge. Bump the pocket to better hold. Once at the top, keep ignoring the ocean Erstbegehung: 21 Feb 2023 | 3m | |||
Northern Rivers Woodford Island See Sea Wall | |||||
20 | Lips, Ears and Aholes
Up past ear shaped pocket to join 'MB" | 14m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone | |||||
20 | ★★ Convergence
left trending steep wall past 4 RB's | 10m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Solar Flare
Up orange wall and white streak. | 13m, 4 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room | |||||
20 | ★ Thin Red Line
4m right of 'Hilti Hijackers', and around the corner on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall, finish at anchors for MDS. 2 BRs Erstbegehung: Tristan Ricketts, 2000 | 12m, 2 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Alcove | |||||
20 | ★★ John West
Climbs Black Arete on left of wall. Fun pockets at start then edges up high. Direct start from ground or traverse in from ledge Erstbegehung: S Hawkshaw | 12m, 5 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Sneaky Snake Flake
One of the longest routes at Knox. Same start and first bolt as CT. Stick clip. Strenuously through the roof and then a rising traverse through a series of cool flakes. Probably only about 17 after the tricky start. Erstbegehung: Brian Cork & Brad Poidevin, 2013 | 20m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ Cosmic Turtle
Start on the arête at the start of the big ledge/cave, 15m R of AG. Stick clip. Traverse left along the rails and then straight up the featured face. Erstbegehung: Brian Cork, 2013 | 15m, 4 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Streaked Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Magic Noodle
Start as for MG head right over bulge to anchors under roof (anchor not yet installed) Erstbegehung: Stephen Hawkshaw, 12 Jul 2014 | 15m, 4 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Thunderbolt Cave | |||||
V2 | Arty Starty
Fun boulder problem up the start of the route. Up to sidepull then pop to the jug by the first bolt. | ||||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Dog House | |||||
20 | ★★ Labradoodle
Climbs the Slabby flake on left side of the wall. fun moves and rock | 12m, 4 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo 354 | |||||
20 | ★★ Invasion Streak
Straight up the obvious white streak | 15m | |||
20 | ★★ Serial
Start as for Sinisterhood then left and up middle of the face | 15m, 7 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never Lost Boys Hideout Wall | |||||
20 | Battle of Evermore
Start approx 8m left of Sublimation. 1st pitch 30m – 20. Start in open book corner. Stay on left side of crack. Thru slightly overhung section trending left to chains. All natural. 2nd pitch 20m – 20. Straight up past 2 BR & cams to chains. 3rd pitch 20m – 17. Straight up past 4 BR & cams to chains. Erstbegehung: Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt & Peter Higgs, 2005 | 70m, 6 | |||
20 | Boulder S
Start 1m right of Astro Boy. Up wall to slabby section then climb over large boulder & thru juggy roof to chains. A few small to med cams & BRs. Marc Bailey, Bruce Jones Erstbegehung: Marc Bailey & Bruce Jones | 25m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never Dead Mans Cave Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ The Phantom
2m right of Hydra. Stay roughly 2 to 3 m right of corner all the way, when at cave level traverse 3m right to chains at Captain America .8 BRs & cams Erstbegehung: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey, 2005 | 25m, 8 | |||
20 | ★★ Captain America
Start 7m right of Hydra. Up wall past 2 BRs then up over bulge 2 BRs (stay on left side of these bolts) veering slightly left onto ledge reach up and place a good small cam before moving straight up the wall to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams. Erstbegehung: Terry Bernutt, Marc Bailey & Peter Higgs, 2002 | 25m, 4 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fun Parlour | |||||
20 | ★★ You Can't Touch This
On a small buttress about 50m left of the main crag. Onto the wall and up through the right side of the roof. 2 bolts and a tree belay. Erstbegehung: W. Anderson & G. Dean, 1990 | 8m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Cosmic Energy
A blunt arete arete, 2 carrots and 2 carrot bolt belay. Erstbegehung: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1989 | 8m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Black Beard
Erstbegehung: unknown | 8m | |||
20 | ★★ Obscure Route
Up trad crack and tend right to carrot bolt on arete. Erstbegehung: Unknown | 8m, 1 | |||
20 | ★ Rags To Riches
The wall right of GIBLETS. Up steepening wall. 3 bolts and trad belay. Superb. Erstbegehung: G. Dean, A. Stephens & L. Dixon, 1990 | 8m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★ Light And Easy
Not so easy if you're not light! Between FLAT BATTERIES and the "Shower Recess" (I think!). A steep wall with a thin crack near the top. 4 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. Just great! Erstbegehung: G. Dean, P. Thompson, T. Loughlin & T. Thompson, 1989 | 8m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Intreeg
Great fun. Superb moves. A couple of metres right of TREEOLOGY. Swing up the wall. 2 bolts and some natural pro. Erstbegehung: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1990 | 10m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Bubble And Squeak
The shaded wall right of BACON AND EGGS. One of the best on the cliff. Love it...Love it...Love it! Up the steep wall with horizontal breaks. 2 bolts and a cam to a 2 bolt belay. Erstbegehung: G. Dean & W. Anderson, 1990 | 8m, 2 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Kremnos Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ A Volley of Dunlops
SDS, LH arete | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Rumplesgotskillskin
A cool traverse under the lip left of the Scarlet Manuka, cool slopers. Erste freie Begeh.: Artie Schultz & Brian Cork, 2012 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ The Scarlet Manuka
SDS. Up central, juggy arete. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Slap and Tickle
SDS overhanging wall L of RH arete. | 2m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Blowboy boulder | |||||
V1 | Blowgirl
SDS, a bit hard but too short to be worth it. | 2m | |||
V1 | Slabblown
Back side of the boulder, couple of techy slab moves. | 2m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Low Boy Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★★ Low Blow
SDS just right of corner. Up to jugs and mantle | 2m | |||
V2 | Loafer
Rounded arete left of corner | 2m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Impossible Wall | |||||
V1 | Footrot
Right side of slab, left of chimney | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Fortress | |||||
V1 | ★ Clucky
Highball face right of crack. Erstbegehung: Travis, 21 Jan 2015 | 6m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Alcove | |||||
V1 | ★ Block Head
Blocky face right of corner/chimney | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones High Ball Wall | |||||
V1 | ★ Lick My Greasy Crack
Highball, orange crack. | 6m | |||
V1 | ★★ Fallen Figures
Highball arête. Not as hard as it looks, but a couple of scary moves near the top will get you thinking. Named to honour the loss of Marty and Denali Schmitt who passed away on K2 not long before the FA. Erstbegehung: Artie Schultz, 2013 | 6m | |||
V1 | Scared Frog
Highball corner crack Erste freie Begeh.: Brenton Owens, 2014 | 6m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Orange Wall | |||||
V1 | ★★ HoCho
Orange face to roof | 6m | |||
V1 | Choccybiccy
Face to roof | 6m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Jam and Cream Wall | |||||
V2 | ★ Cream Puff
Arete | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Jam and Scream
Crack above small cave. A rare feature for the Glenreagh area... a crack that is easier to jam than use neighbouring face holds. | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones South Central | |||||
V1 | ★★ Face-scooped
Face to scoop Erste freie Begeh.: Artie Schultz & Brian Cork, 2012 | 4m |