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Einträge in Port Lincoln Bouldering

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Eintrag
Port Lincoln Bouldering

A number of granite coastal bouldering area's with amazing seaviews!

The Mine

Limestone caves on the beach at local surf spot 'The Mine'

The Mine
Handle Bar Cave

The first major cave on the left once you get down onto the beach.

The Mine Handle Bar Cave
V4/5 Handle me

Sit start in the back left of the cave with good heel hook. Blast along left then out into the roof with a good cross and some fun moves, match on the large jug on the lip

Handle Project

Project starting at back right side of cave and finishing in same spot as Handle me

The Mine
Monkey Bar Cave

The next large cave immediately after Handle Bar Cave

The Mine Monkey Bar Cave
V0 Monkey Bar
V2 Heel Toe
V3 Monkey Toe
V2/3 Yet to be named
The Mine
The Dungeon

The next cave immediately after Monkey Bar Cave. It has two distinct hanging pillars that you can climb on and behind.

The Mine The Dungeon
V1 Dungeon Walker
V3 Into the Dungeon
The Mine
Nawu Cave

After the 'Dungeon' cave there is a small point with two small rocks. Go around this and into the end of the beach. There are some big caves here, the first one at the end on the left is Nawu Cave.

The Mine Nawu Cave
V3 Dreamtime
Scoop time

Project

The Mine
Twin Cave

5m along from Nawu Cave. Twin cave is big and has plenty of routes to do, however it does get grimy and can be wet from big swell and constant sea spray.

Loads of lines to go up in here.

Wanna

A range of styles from slab to offwidth to roof on excellent granite next to huge ocean waves

Wanna
V2 Shortwave

Start in the huge roof-jug in the black streak, move up through the holds in the black streak and out.

Longwave project

Start in the jug at back of cave, make big move out to roof flake, another big move to the start jug of Shortwave and up. Maybe around V4?

V4 Escape Plan

Starting RH on rounded lip and LH on jug of Shortwave, head out sideways towards the black part of the rock

V0 Pull The Head Off

Sit-start under the levitating "head" of the boulder and layback your way up.

V4 Inverse Kinematics

Really fun and unique off-width crack climb. Low start with hands around the bottom corner and feet where feet often don't go, then flex your way up.

V0 Wanna Bet?

Jump start and mantle past the high and impossibly blank surface. Sit-start variant may go at about V40.

VB Easy Up

Stand start on the ledge towards the left of the boulder. Up on good small holds with smears.

V2 Barely There

Start one foot on a poor smear, with an even worse hand hold (palm the vaguely sloping hint of a ledge). Go directly up, avoiding moving into the good holds on Easy Up or Dangerous Currents. Top out passing by two giant but entirely unhelpful jugs.

V1 Dangerous Currents

Stand-start on the good diagonal ledge, up onto good small sloper hold and top out.

V2 Freak Waves

Tricky sit-start with hands in the shallow vertical crack, follow the crack up.

V2 Attack of the sand-Flies

80m south of Freak Waves on the same wall. Start both hands on upside down V. Up to large flake, high heel then mantle to lip. Avoid on large swell days.

V0 Jumble

On boulder towards south of beach just before you reach the big flat opening. Sit-start with one hand on the big low jug, other hand wherever. Hard move off the ground, then easier top out.

V0 Giftwrap

Sit start on the prominent right-hand flake in middle of boulder and up.

V1 Trust Feet or Grate Face

Or possibly both. Stand start on the blankest section of the boulder, using shallow sidepull crimp and left-hand smear in feature to right. Slap up to sloper top and up.

V3 Minimal Dramatic Flare

Excellent flaring crack on the large clearing at the south end of the beach. Stand start in thin finger crack and up into wider jams.

V2 Popeye

Right hand crimp, set up left toe with left hand and match hands. Use crimps to the top out.

Curta Rocks

Amazing granite slab littered with boulders and rock with views of the ocean and crashing waves on the cliffs below

Curta Rocks
The Mecca

The first major overhanging wall after walking down from the top. A number of fun traverses and problems, needs a brush and some chalk after a big swell.

Curta Rocks The Mecca
V0 Freya

Sit start on jugs at left end of wall, straight up. Good warm up

V3 Embassy Traverse

Sit start as for Freya, traverse right for 3m then up and out through big moves on big jugs

V2 High Traverse

Sit start as for Freya and traverse across right but high on the jugs, same top out as Embassy

V5 Corner Contortion

Sit start in the middle of the wall below corner. Blast out through overhang and turn the lip into the corner with some serious contorting of the body

V7 Extend the Contortion

Same as Embasy traverse but continue all the way across and exit out Corner Contortion

Full extention

Project that traverse the entire wall left to right

V0+ Cant help ya self

Small problem above and right of the Mecca wall. Small fun techy slab

Curta Rocks
Vaughny's Area

A collection of a few large boulders and a high wall (7-10m high) about 100-200m North of Mecca Wall and 50m South of Chasm area.

Curta Rocks Vaughny's Area
Ripple Wall

The main long wall in Vaughny's area, plenty of traverse's and high ball problems

Curta Rocks Vaughny's Area Ripple Wall
V0- JMA traverse

Start on left hand end of wall, traverse right for 4m into the corner and finish up crack attack.

V0 Crack attack

Sit start on low side pull (R-hand) and edge (L-hand), up crack with a finger lock or two and top out.

V3/4 21 and lonely

Either up crack attack and bust right into power undercling and up or straight up into power undercling via jump or hard moves. Still needs to be rectified with Vaughn

V3 Napisan

A great outing up the main line on the wall! This highball can be wet or slimey, be sure to clean and chalk holds and place a mat on the rock behind you.

Stand start matched on good rail, either throw for the slopey ledge or use sidepulls/underclings and other things. Up on jugs to a slopey top out and mantle, exit left or right at the top.

V4 Font me

A traverse that is Fontainebleau esk. Start matched on the right end of the wall on large jug, make a tricky move to the start of the sloper rail. Chalk up and hang on somehow, head left all the way to the end of the sloper ledge. Link-ups into Napisan and others still to be done.

Good entry level sloper problem, if it was in an area away from the sea with excellent friction it would be V2. Super fun!

Curta Rocks Vaughny's Area
Diamond Slab

Large slab right next to Ripple Wall. Some good warm up's... bring your footwork.

Curta Rocks Vaughny's Area Diamond Slab
V0- Jess's sit start

Sit start on jug on left hand end of slab, straight up large crack.

V2 Solutions

The middle slab problem, 1m right of Jess's sit start.

Stand start in the middle of the wall on two small slimpers, right foot on the worst sloper in the world. Balance up to start, straight up and mantle out, great problem!

V0 Solutions right hand varient

Alternate and easier start for Solutions. start out right, after a couple of moves head left and finish up Solutions.

V4/5 Spearhead traverse

The following problems are directly behind Diamond slab.

Spearhead climbs the overhanging knife blade from right to left and top's out. Be careful of the awkward landings. Start with left hand on small positive underlung and right hand on first good edge on the knife blade. With a heel on hold tension and get established on the knifeblade, traverse left and around, mantle top out. Awesome fun!

Sit start and start off the undercling still to be added, both will be very hard! possibly V9-12

V1 Sloppy kankle

Start on the left hand side of this boulder on a good rail, throw a heel up next to your hand, move right to the arete and finish up with the same mantle as Spearhead.

Crack project

overhanging crack with finger locks just left of Spearhead. Closed project

Diamond in the rough

Finger crack on large diamond feature, it is on the back of the crack project (facing the sea). Closed project

Curta Rocks
Chasm Area

A long chasm with a wall inside it and another long wall just past it. It's located 50m North of Vaughny's area

Curta Rocks Chasm Area
V0- Frog legs

The following problems are on the small wall (Swirl Wall) just past the Chasm.

Sit start on jugs on left hand end of wall, straight up

V1 Neapolitana Traverse

Start as for Frog legs and traverse up and right along the rail, top out.

V1 Rainbow Paddle Pop Traverse

Sit start at right end of wall with undercling and edge on face. Traverse left to the middle of the wall and top out on jugs.

V1 Jesse's traverse

Sit start as for Rainbow Paddle Pop, then traverse all the way to Frog Legs and up and out.

V4 Chasm Spasm

The following routes are in the chasm just around from Swirl Wall.

Sit start on large jug on the far right of wall. Traverse left with great moves on edges and good feet. On the final rail go straight up to slopers and make hard top out

V3 Slap Chasm

This problem is the final moves of Chasm Spasm.

Stand start on rail in middle of wall, straight up and out on slopers

V3/4 Chicken swing ding

Stand start on rail as for Slap Chasm, but instead make a hard move left to sidepull and exit out through large crack

V5/6 Chasm Swing Ding

Sit start as for Chasm Spasm, traverse all the way across left and keep going to finish out through Chicken swing ding

Carcase Rocks

A number of boulders and problems along the shoreline at Carcase Rocks in the Port Lincoln National Park

Carcase Rocks
V1 MK Warm Up

This boulder (Shane's Boulder) and the following 3 problems are on the first small boulder located along the stretch.

Sit start on big jugs on leftside of boulder, straight up and out

V3/4 Shane's traverse

Sit start under roof at the back, traverse out left along crack/lip and mantle up and out to finish in the same spot as MK Warm Up

V6 Salmon Flop

Sit start as for Shanes Traverse then make hard moves right through roof and flop over the lip

V2/3 Gluten Free Cigarettes

This boulder (Gluten Free Boulder) is 50m up (North) of Shanes Boulder.

Gluten Free Cigarettes stand starts on the lowest big jug on overhang. Big moves on jugs to top out

V5/6 Gluten Free Doobies

Sit start on small side pull and crimp below Gluten Free Doobies. Make hard first move to big jug on gluten free doobies and finish up this

V0- Left Pearson

This boulder (Baby face boulder) and the following two routes are 50-80m up (North) from Gluten Free Boulder.

Easy beginner problems with loads of variants.

Sit start on jug on the left, feet on big boulder to the right. Up and left

V0- Right Pearson

Sit start on jug on the left, feet on big boulder to the right. Up and right and out.

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