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Eintrag |
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Coles Point
Coastal bouldering at Coles Point. A small but worthwhile selection of problems to do before spending a day at the beach. All on solid rock! Best to come at low tide for the Salmon Boulder but Crab Crag is dry all the time. Both areas pretty sheltered from Northerly winds, but pretty exposed to the south. |
Greenlip Boulder
Big boulder on the South West point. Great quality rock with some easy routes. Be wary of the tide as it gets a bit exciting towards high tide, particularly on the North Western side of the boulder. Probably worth bringing a tarp to place under pads as there are a few little puddles around. |
Greenlip Boulder |
Barny sit
Sit start to Barny, desperate! RH same for Barny stand, left hand on good sidepull. Open project |
V5
★ Barny stand
LH on good high jug on arête. RH on low sidepull crimp rail, good right foot and left heel. Hard move to large sidepull w small seam. RH up to pinch, then to undercling. Up to jugs |
V3
Smokin Abs
Sit start as for crumbed crack. Left through the undercling seam, once at the end of this launch to the top |
V2
Gas Station Oysters
Start as for crumbed crack but follow the crack up and through the overhanging bulge on the left to pull off a committing mantle exit. |
V1
Crumbed crack
Start matched on obvious jug in the prominent crack on the Southern side of the Salmon Boulder. Follow the crack up, step out onto the face and top out to the right of the bulge. |
V0
Easy Abs
Start on the bulging jug and follow the line of holds up and slightly left to top out. |
V1
Spring Tide
The right hand line on the eastern side of the boulder. Start on the low crimp rail, bust your way up to the glorious sloper jug and find your way to the top. |
V3/4
A Fair Fight
The arete on the North Western point of the boulder. Stand start with the glorious side pull jug on the arete and whatever you can find for your left hand. Rock up, pray hard for sticky shoes and follow the thin seam to the top. |
Blacklip Crag
Nice set of problems with a great landing. Offers a variety of routes from corner laybacks to slopey aretes. Super solid rock. |
Blacklip Crag |
VB
Salty Sally
Up easy crack |
V0
★ Tuna Time
Sit start in the prominent lay back crack in the seaward corner. Shuffle your way up and exit left of the sharks tooth. |
V2
On the Tooth Stand
Stand start for On the Tooth. Was done well before On the Tooth but the sit is more classic. |
V4
★★ On the Tooth
Sit start with the left hand side pull just left of the arete and use anything you can find for your right hand. Sprinkle on a bunch of body tension and bump up to the first of two crimp rails making your way straight up the centre of the face to finish through and right of the sharks tooth. |
V2
★★ Slimey Mackerel
Start the same as "On the Tooth" but bump onto the sloper straight up and follow the arete to the top out. |
V2/3
★★ The Blackfish and the Bard
Sit start on the sloping jug rail and go straight up to finish at the top of the prow. |
V0
★ Read The Omens
Start on the jugs on the right of the face and make your way up trending left along the blocky breaks to exit off the top. |
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