Kicking Brass 15

Start at gully 10m R of 'Absentia'.

1. 15m (3) Up R-leading gully slinging two trees as pro, then climb directly up the easy slab to tree and ledge (natural belay in pockets).

2. 35m (15) Many of the pockets take gear (mostly hexes), so take a full rack. Diagonally L off the belay to good wire before wide crack, then up to bulge. Go L to avoid the bulge and up to second bulge. Resist temptation to trend R up ramp - instead go L through bulge to pro. Directly up black rock to FH. From here the line is direct up the steep juggy wall passing a crucial #6 hex pocket and second FH. Once on the upper slab, clip the last FH and traverse 5m R along ledge to the chains for "Get into the Groove". Could do with its own anchors.

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.