Einträge in Goldirocks

This little cliff has some excellent middle-grade climbs on fine rock. Many of the descents are by abseil from trees but this is not always mentioned in descriptions, and the ones that are mentioned may not be there since recent fires.

The wobbly pinnacle that is easily seen looking up and right as you slog up the final gully towards the crag. From the lowest point, ascend the clean face and pass the summit overhang on the right. Descend easily off the back.

The second of the shorter rock steps. There is only one route of any real value on it. At the left end of the cliff is a short wall split by a hideous off-width crack. The first climbs are just left of the off-width.

Not too bad. Take the arete left of the off-width on smooth, grey-yellow rock.

Never trust a lawyer. Climb a vague line on the wall just right of Unberievable, traversing left into that climb near the top.

Further right into the alcove, right of the off-width, is a corner with twin cracks.

A bulge in the cliff 10 metres right of "One Eighth" produces some bouldery starts. This takes an arete.

Similar to the previous climb, starting by a tree to the right.

The line just right of April Fools on a juggy wall. Veer right to go through a steepening and then left to the top.

Quite a nice climb, somewhat spoiled by the grassy finish.

The elegant diagonal line snaking rightwards up the slabby wall.

The main outcrop. The left side features a steep orange wall which is the taken by This Little Piggy. On the left side of the orange wall is the chimney-corner of Disappointment and 30 metres left of this is the prominent V-corner of Quakers.

The prominent V-corner 30 metres left of the orange wall.

Energetic moves up the foot of the arete lead to easier ground. Follow the left edge of the buttress to the top.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Quakers" at the right arete of its corner.

Climb the centre of the buttress via a very shallow corner in the upper half. There is a good abseil tree above the buttress just to the right.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Bananas In Pyjamas" is a broad grey buttress with a tree growing horizontally from the top on the left.

You'll remember this.

Walk uphill from the top of "Floppsy Bunnies" to a wall with an orange corner/roof at its right-hand end.

Climb the corner, step right at the roof and up steep crack.

Climb the left wall then the smooth corner crack to the top.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Floppsy Bunnies" and 10 metres left of "Disappointment" is a shallow corner with a juggy left wall.

Climb the left nose of the narrow buttress immediately ledt of "Disappointment".

The right of the two aretes just left of "Disappointment".

An honest name for a climb.

The large chimney-corner on the left side of the orange wall.

A fine line up the centre of the beautiful orange wall.

More skullduggery saw Lindorff snaffling this ahead of Egerton. The fixed nut (on old cord) needs replacing before the route is attempted.

Start at corner and seam just right of This Little Piggy.

Climb the corner and seam to a fixed nut. Now go right to tackle the roof and beyond.

The overhanging weakness between "Big Bad Wolf" and "Too Hard", moving right to climb the left side of the arete. Finish up left-leading ramp.

Start up "Too Hard" then traverse left to arete at 3 metres. Up arete to finish as for "There's Something Wrong With My Arms".

Some dubious rock.

Start right of "Big Bad Wolf" at a red overhang with a hand-crack on its right side.

Start strenuously and go up to the upper crack system. Finish up the left-hand crack.

Sustained climbing up the shallow black groove and right-facing corner 4 metres right of "Too Hard". Near the top, cross a slab on the right to an abseil tree.

A couple of metres right of "Blast From The Past", steep hand-jamming off the ledge gives way to easy climbing.

The route "Spatlese" (Maddox, Armstrong)is almost certainly a repeat of this.

Start 1 metre left of Sour Grapes.

Follow the stepped flakes leftish, then straight up.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Bridging moves lead to a good jam-crack almost in the chimney corner.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Just Right" just left of a chimney-cleft.

Pleasant bridging up the chimney-cleft just right of "Sour Grapes" then at one-third height take the left-hand branch, finishing up the steeper corner.

Meanders up the buttress right of "Downpour". Take the weakness leading right to a large ledge. Scramble up.

Quite an attractive little thing.

Start a little right of "Too Soft" at a red corner and roof.

Up beneath roof and out right to pull onto wall and arete.

Excellent rock with intricate pro. Take lots of RPs! On wall right of Leveret, left of off-width corner. Start at small, crystal-encrusted, pocketed ledge about 1.5 metres left of off-width corner. Up through low bulge to thin seam/crack. Continue more or less straight up slabby wall following seam/crack system. On past right end of rubbly ledge onto juggy crack up small buttress to top. No FA details given (Argus, May 2004)

(For the Boys) Climb the centre of the bulging grey wall right of the off-width right of Leveret.

A bit tricky.

The shallow corner 15 metres right of Leveret and then up the wall.

Up the shallow corner above the gap in the ledge and finish easily up the slab. Abseil from tree.

Start: Start 4 metres right of "Huff And Puff" at a gap in the ledge.

Start as for "Goodnight Mum, Goodnight Dad" but move right to the arete. Follow the line just right of the arete to the easy upper slab.

Follow the thin crack right of the gap in the ledge. It curves right at the top into a wider line.

The wide crack right of "Firma Terra" has an impertinent move near the top.

Useless.

Start about 15 metres right of Masters Apprentices.

Take the left-hand line to a large ledge. Abseil from shaky tree or finish easily up the crack behind.

Up the corner and slab above to tree and abseil.

Start: Start 20 metres right of "Old Moll", on the same level, at the obvious corner with the small roof at the top.

Short polished wall below the step in the ledge from which the other climbs start.

Quite nice. The right-leaning crack which marks the left side of this little wall.

The razor-like crack right of "Easter Bunnies", darting left at half-height to a break. Follow the break left to the arete and go up.

The nice jam-crack right of "Nursery Crime"

Short sharp arête to left side of small buttress about 18 metres right of Buffalo Gals and below and right of Firma Terra and Masters Apprentices. Small wires and cams are tricky but ample. Move slightly right of the arête to top out. Tree anchor. Easy walk off right.

Up right leaning crack.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack 20 metres right of "Buffalo Gals".

Start in chimney right of Through The Looking Class. At 2 metres step left onto good feet. Small cams helpful. Directly up staying about 2 metres left of chimney, then slightly right to top out through overhang in order to gain good holds. Tree Anchor. Easy walk off right.

Start 3 metres right of chimney up right leaning easy rock to stance 4 metres above the ground. Use pockets to reach high into small crack then moving slightly right on slopers. Tree Anchor. Easy walk off right.

Start 8 metres of chimney through easiest line in the pancake layered rock. Climb straight until slabby rock at top of climb and walk left to tree anchor.