Einträge in Number 1 Creek Valley

Mostly shady and in extremely pleasant creekside settings.

The large, lower apron of rock below Out To Lunch Wall.

Start directly below the right end of the red wall.

Climb just right of the pale water streak. Continue up arete left of black corner, moving right ot awkward finish above corner. Rap from tree as for "Stretchmate"

Pocketed face right of prominent corner above platform hakfway along wall.

Up, a little left at overlap, then up on diminishing holds. Right to terrace and tree.

Wall right of "Slap & Tickle". Steeply up and right, then up on good holds.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

At the right end of The Snack Bar is an obvious crack.

Follow the crack until it becomes a gully then move right and climb the front of the easy buttress. Rap off trees.

Nice area of mostly trad routes. Faces SSW so is good for summer until 3-4pm.

The following routes are on the West-facing walls which see the sun just after midday. Most routes require abseil descents. Some fixed ropes / slings are in place, but treat with caution.

Climb the weakness to the overhang and move right to the arete. Up to ledge and walk off.

Start: At the left-hand side of the wall is an orange recess. This climb was originally called 'Golden Gaytime'.

Bold, with a crux close to the ground with a nearby tree ready to puncture your kidneys.

Start on the left side of an arete at the left side of the cliff, 10 metres left of the flake of Aimless Blade.

When over the bulge, reach right and climb straight up the wall above.

Seamed corner right of "Me Old Mate Darth", then wall to overlap. Step right onto slabby dish and up.

Start: Start at right-leading flake towards left side of cliff.

1. 15m (16) Climb the flake and move up to a tree.

2. 30m (14) Step left and up thin cracks. Step right to a break in the overhang, pull over and go up.

10m R of Aimless Blade (was mistaken that that route on the FA) Climbs the vague blocky flake that ends after 10m. Then reach L and climb the wall above to Abseil tree. A direct finish through the prow might be possible?

Climb face a couple of metres right of the wide crack. When the easier slab is reached, drift leftish to tree.

Start: Start about 25 metres right of "Aimless Blade" ata wide crack.

Tackles the nice Arete L of Little Escapes. Gear is slightly fiddly, but adequate. Start up the shallow juggy corner. Go R around roof and straight up blunt arete. Escape L at the top and up to abseil tree.

Obvious orange corner starting off a ledge, just a few metres right of "Hot Cross".

Up technical corner to middle of roof and traverse easily left to stance. Scramble off left to rap tree on Hot Cross. There was originally a second pitch up corner and bulge but it adds little value.

A whimsical journey. Start 3 metres right of "Little Escapes" at a thin line just left of arete.

Thin line then step right to shallow corner on arete. Up corner to ledge just right of large roof. Step left above the roof (?large cam handy) and climb leftwards up the face.

Descent from the following 4 routes can be made via a large tree at the top. (Directly above Just in Passing). 35m to the ground, lands you at the head of the lower 'descent gully'.

Enjoyable. Start just right of Vasco below a crack.

Up to and up crack. Over bulge and easily up to a ledge. Now straight up wall above. Move left and up to finish. Going direct to the tree at the top goes at about grade 17.

Up the middle of the wall of the descent gully. Could be done in one pitch. 32m Abseil from higher tree lands you at the head of the descent gully.

1. Start 3m R of Have I Ever Told You. Up face, aiming for short diagonal crack.

2. Over flakes, then take a R up slight ramp - finishing up thin wall above.

Bold in parts but escapable.

Start 3 metres right of Have I Ever Told You, 2 metres left of the head of the gully.

Go straight up the wall to a horizontal break below a thin seam up a smooth slab. Traverse 3 metres right along the break then go up the face via a scary rock-over. Continue directly up to obvious right-leaning corner. Climb corner and step left. Hard moves up shallow diagonal groove and then go straight up the wall.

Thrilling pitch at head of descent gully.

Climb the left edge of the slab to a tree. Bridge short corner behind tree to ledge. Hand-traverse right to the undercut arete which is followed to the top.

Juggy wall just left of the creek.

Start at shallow corner by creek and climb just left of the arete. At the big ledge move left and continue to the top.

The Main, shady wall in the creek. Sees the sun around 3pm in summer.

An entertaining problem with an exciting finish; cruelly stolen from Ferret.

Start at the steep flake on the left side of the overhanging wall left of the obvious chimney/cleft.

tart up the flake and finish up the thin seam.

Demanding route up overhanging wall right of "The Boys That Were Naughty". Boulder to or stick-clip first bolt. One of the bolts is actually a peg; probably should be replaced with a bolt.

Somewhat contrived.

Bridge the cleft right of Bad Boys for a few moves then traverse left along the horizontal (peg runner) to finish as for Bad Boys.

Funky 3D climbing is both unnerving and exciting. Thin crack/seam at edge of chimney cleft, 3 metres left of Tortology until it meets the cleft. Heave around right and up.

Quite thin climbing up a steely-grey "slab". Take lots of small wires. Thin seam up grey face right of chimney-cleft.

The enjoyable vague arete 6 metres right of the chimney-cleft to the terrace. Originally done as two pitches but pitch two is rarely repeated and is described separately (Turning Turtle) There is a rap anchor above YTTDF

This is the exciting but rarely done second pitch of Tortoise.

Start at the belay at the top of Tortoise. Move right and up to the right side of the distinct prow. Traverse left below the prow and up the corner above.

Contrived route with some bolts just right of "Tortoise".

Sustained and intricate climbing on the immaculate wall right of "Tortoise". Climb the best bit of the wall past a bolt then veer left to easier ground.

Used to be graded 27, it is probably easy for 26. The obvious finish to this great route. Instead of veering off left after the first bolt continue straight up past a second bolt. Both bolts are new (2012) and there is a rap anchor above.

Direct start to Snail and improves the line immensely. Takes 3 FH left off the ledge and up to join the line (wires and small cams required).

Good first pitch.

Start: Start at short chimney with rotten chockstone right of the smooth wall. 2nd Pitch ascends a difficult R leading diagonal line visible just R of prow.

1. 25m (19) Up onto rotten chockstone and take left-hand line to terrace.

2. 25m (19) Move up right and climb diagonal crack-line.

Again, a good first pitch and vaguely described second pitch. Start at the chimney as for "Snail".

1. 25m (18) Onto the rotten chockstone and take right-hand line to terrace.

2. 25m (18) Up a series of walls to the top.

Start at ramp 8 metres right of Slug. Gain the right-leading flake by a traverse left from the easy ramp. Up the line and exit vertically to the belay ledge.

A very fine pitch. The unpopular second pitch is written up separately.

The original second pitch of "Floaties" is much harder than the first and is not popular though it's not too bad. Start on the ledge a few metres right of the belay on "Floaties", beneath the right-hand end of the roofs. There used to be a stump hereabouts.

Big trad walls tucked high in the back of the valley opposite 'Death March Wall'

Immediately below the Maiden Ecstasy buttress are some walls. On the left side of the walls are some big square-cut overhangs. Right of these, where the creek first touches the crag, there is an easy-angled corner with a tree at half height.

Pleasant.

Climb the easy-angled corner from the very bottom. Near the top, keep to the outer edge of the chimney to avoid loose rock.

Start just up the slope from The Good Soldier.

Climb the arete 2 metres right of the corner for 15 metres to a small overhang. Move right beneath this overhang for 3 metres then climb the wall to the top.

Nice climbing.

The right-leading crack just right of Black Marsupial Lion As An Established Rumour fades out after a while. Continue up the wall with poor protection to the next crack and follow it.

Steep but with big holds. Immediately below the Maiden Ecstasy buttress are Steep but with big holds. Enter the crack right of Lightning from the right and follow it.

The huge 100m high buttress on the north side of the creek. Most climbs haven't been exactly located, but the main wall looks impressive.

The big corner on the right side of "Ripple Wall", some distance right of the other climbs.

Climb the big corner to a ledge. Take the crack in the right wall until it rejoins the corner and continue up.

Unattractive and serious. Start a few metres right of "Sunset Groove" ata short flake-chimney just right of the boulder.

1. 46m (14) Up the edge of the flake. Bridge back left to the bulging wall and up into the wide groove. When the groove divides, take the left-hand fork.

2. 18m (-) Continue up the groove and then up the right side of the summit block.

Climbing on unusual rock up the most prominent groove on "Ripple Wall", starting near a large boulder that almost blocks the ledge.

1. 50m (11) Up the groove to belay behind the pinnacle.

2. 20m (11) Up the arete.

A sombre cleft.

Start: Start at the chimney-gully marking the right side of the "Maiden Ecstasy" wall.

1. 35m (14) 'Gully' to a terrace.

2. 20m (14) Move right a little then hand-traverse back left into the line and follow it to a ledge.

3. 40m (14) The chimney to a resting place.

4. 40m (-) Step right to the arete and go up.

Despite a name worthy of Baxter, this is a very good, sustained and atmospheric climb.

Start: Start at a boulder below a steep wall a metre or two right of "Dur Hardder Direct"

1. 30m (18) Step off boulder and go straight up steep wall to an overhang near the left arete. Traverse 8 metres right then diagonally right to small stance.

2. 25m (19) Step left and climb up leftwards through the overhang, heading for a massive bollard. From the bollard continue right up a corner.

3. 20m (-) On up the corner for 5 metres then go up.

4. 25m (-) Up

Good climbing directly up the middle of the steep rock.

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Maiden Ecstasy".

1. 30m (22) Up to an undercling at 5 metres, reach right and up groove until it joins "Maiden Ecstasy" and up to belay as for that climb.

2. 50m (22) Go straight up. When it steepens, tend right through a series of overhangs. Then the headwall to the ridge. To descend either scramble down the ridge and abseil off a bollard or continue easily to the top.

Enjoyable and quite exposed.

Start: Start a few metres right of "The Wayfarer" at a crack leading to an arete at 7 metres.

1. 67m (10) Climb crack to arete and follow arete for 60 metres.

2. 55m (10) Move right on the wall and go up.

Start: Start on the left wall of the big central chimney.

1. 50m (8) Up the corner for a rope-length.

2. 50m (8) Go left to the front of the buttress and up for another 50 metres.

3. 30m (8) Climb the right arete to a big ledge.

4. 30m (8) A chimney on the left leads through the overhang then up a smooth slab to more jugs.

To the left of the Maiden Ecstasy buttress and higher up the hillside is a steep wall with an arched roof crossing it at about half height.

There is a weakness at the right end of the arch leading to a hanging corner. A few metres up left from the lowest point of the wall, a narrow ramp cuts steeply up right.

It would probably be safer to combine the first two pitches.

1. 27m (17) Climb the ramp until about 3 metres below an overlap. Exposed traverse right for 7 metres then launch up and right to a hanging belay (many cams and strong nerves for belay) under the arch below the hanging belay

2. 10m (-) Pull around arch into a hanging corner. Move up to an overlap and make a wide step left to the arete. Continue up to a stance.

3. 28m (-) A curving flake crack leads diagonally right and up. Continue steeply to a big ledge.

4. 35m (-) Roped scrambling up the final buttress avoids the surrounding heinous scrub.

Down right of The Great Slab is a small triangular face marked by right-leaning grooves in the upper part. The next three climbs are here. Just up from the right side of this buttress is another small face with a crack on its right side which is another route.

Exciting and a bit loose up the crack on the right-hand side of the crag just right and uphill from Slaughterhouse 5.

Climb a ramp from the left to gain the right-hand crack. Follow the crack to a gully then step back left and heave up the headwall.

Intricate.

Start 2 metres right of Breakfast Of Champions. There may be the remains of a cairn. Climb the slab and bulge just right of a niche. Go diagonally right to easier ground.

Technical laybacking.

Start 5 metres right of Player Piano and climb up into the bottomless niche. Up left to a rest and then up right into a strange flared groove that leads to fearsome jugs.

The left-hand crack system

The big slabby feature with a huge corner up right of The Eagle's Head.

A rather irrelevant climb taking the centre of the smoothest part of the slab just right of the big corner. The bulges are avoided by diverging into the corner at those points.

A fun experience on an easy arete high on the hillside.

1. 40m (11) Start at the very toe of the slab. The start is tricky then things ease to a large terrace.

2. 46m (8) From the terrace continue up the left arete of the corner until just below the bulge that runs across the face.

3. 30m (11) Climb the bulge via a crack on the left then step back right to the arete and continue to the top.

Doddle city up the slab left of the big corner.

Climb the slab just left of "Cricklewood Rainbow" pitch 2 to the bulge. Step right and climb the wall 2 metres left of a crack and continue up a corner. Finish up a thin crack on the right wall.

There is a steep gully dividing the right-hand end of the Eagle's Head cliffs from the leftmost slabs of Cloggy (location of Cricklewood Rainbow. At the head of the gully, and on its righthand side are two narrow buttresses; the right-hand buttress has pronounced overlaps at the top.

Start at the toe of the right-hand buttress.

Climb the steep groove on the left and then follow cracks up the slab to the right-hand end of the overlap. Exciting moves left lead to a bottomless corner which is followed to the top.

Some excellent climbing here. Wall directly opposite Cloggy.

Diagonal crack with strange blocks poking out of it just left of "Chimney Thief". Finish up the arete.

On the front of the block, around left from "Pickpocket" is a bottomless chimney. Finsih up a slabby arete.

Nice pocket pulling. Used to be very poorly protected and probably still is. A few metres down left of Dark Struggle is a steeply overhung groove, becoming a crack at half-height.

Awkward diagonal on opposite side of gully from "Coldfinger".

Climb the corner just left of "Brittle Bondage" and then a juggy groove.

A few metres left of "Snap, 'Crackle', Pop", climb the right arete of a corner to a ledge. Move right and curse up a hard corner.

Up the gully, 15 metres left of "Diaghilev", a groove leads to a right-leading ramp. Up ramp to final corner.

A great bit of fun, even if you have to pull on the bolt. Start at the undercut flake 2.5 metres right of Snap, Crackle And Pop. Up flake and vertical flake above. Traverse diagonally left to ramp. up left of blank face to horizontal break and traverse off left. A better finish from the ramp (grade 16) is to head up and left to the headwall and up the twin cracks. (Alt finish Mark Poustie, Campbell Mercer 13-03-1993)

A full value pitch.

Zig-zag crack 3 metres left of Not Waving But Drowning until it ends. Move right to an incipient corner. Up this then traverse left a fair distance to a vertical crack which takes you straight to the top via the centre of the summit block.

Start up white streak 2m R of Diaghilev. One thin move with ground fall potential leads to better protected climbing up to jug and crack. Step right on to orange wall and weave up the centre of the wall with sparse and small protection. Sustained and technical crux. Falling off would be very exciting to say the least.

Great sustained jamming.

The major diagonal crack at the left end of the cave.

Seems contrived.

Start as for Not Falling But Flailing. Go 4 metres up the diagonal and step right across to a ledge. Step towards the right arete (crossing Not Falling But Flailing) and climb the crack and then the upper left wall before finishing up the final arete.

Start: Start at the left end of the cave at the major diagonal crack (Not Waving But Drowning).

Pull unto the diagonal crack and immediately step right onto the wall. Diagonally right up the wall (protection behind loose blocks) to a ledge. Finish up crack 3 metres left of arete.

More a problem than a climb.

Boulder the break in the overhang 10 metres left of the original start. Either continue up the route or traverse back right to the ground.

From the start of Whispers, traverse left on the lip of the overhang to the arete. Head up left of huge blocks and continue past more blocks.

Start in the same place as Fiery God.

Trend left up the slabs to below the orange streaks in the overlaps. Through the overlaps via the orange streaks and continue up over another bulge to finishing finger cracks.

Start: Start as for Fiery God.

Climb up to the overlap and climb it. Move 2 metres left to a second crack and go up right to a second bulge. Over bulge, moving slightly left, and continue more easily.

Start 3 metres left of "Bea-Lea" where a thin crack leads up a slab to an overhang.

Climb up to the overhang and step right into a cave. No up the steep crack.

Looks very like a repeat of Fiery God.

Start at the corner 2 metres left of Bea-Lea.

Up the right-leaning crack, the roof and slab above to the thin crack to the overhang. Through the overhang and up to top.

Not worth the trouble.

Start 3 metres left of Ragamuffin.

Traverse right under the overhang to the arete. Up the crack for 3 metres then go left above overhangs to the arete. Up to a small corner.

Start up the arete to reach the crack and follow this to the overhang. Pull over this to excessive jugs.

Start: Start 10 metres left of "Savage God" at a slab with a crack up it.

Beautiful slab but a bit contrived. The finish was originally done as a variant finish to "Savage God" possibly by Hugh Foxcroft.

Good line with a hard finish. Only worth the grade if you take into consideration the horrific rope drag that is likely to be experienced.

Amble up the slabby corner, move left under the first overlap, then left again under the second overlap to reach the left arete. Now swing up right above the roof and go up the wall.

Start as for Savage God.

The corner to the overhang, traverse right, around the first overhang then up to the roof. Traverse right.

Campbell Mercer repeated and named this route that had previously been written up as a variant to Savage God.

Start up Savage God then take flakes up the right wall. At the final roof, traverse right or go over the roof.

Start at the base of Savage God, on the right wall.

The crack through the vertical black stain to the arete. The arete to the top. Aid used by leader was not required by second.

Centre of rib 1 metre left of "Wheelchair Slalom".

Easy chimney 3 metres left of "Trial Balance".

Start as for Wheelchair Slalom.

Up for 3 metres, then take vertical crack on right face up to left side of block. Stepping up take diagonal crack on left for 3 metres then straight up.

The crack 3 metres left of The Hot Club to a ledge. Finish up a corner on the right.