Hilfe

Guernica Block

  • Bewertungskontext: AU
  • Fotos: 2
  • Begehungen: 36

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

9

Saisonalität

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Beschreibung

An amazing pillar that has sheared off 'Clicke Wall' leaving a giant chasm. There are newer routes on the orange wall to the left of the 'Guernica Block' and routes up the block itself. The only way to the summit is via one of these routes. The rock quality ranges from very poor (Guernica) to bullet hard (Slippety Slope). There is a good cave to shelter in just right of 'Genetic Sandbag'.

© (nmonteith)

Einschränk. übernommen von Clicke Wall

This grey compact wall is on the 'To be Reviewed' list… although there's some confusion as Clicke area was a "Designated" area in the Draft plan; but isn't mentioned at all in the Final GGLMP.

Zustieg

Walk around right from 'Orange Blossom Wall' for 20m, squeezing amongst the many chalked up boulders (The excellent 'Andersens' Bouldering Field is located right at the base of this cliff - look out for the sound of falling punks). The crag gets morning sun but should be shady after midday.

© (nmonteith)

Ethik übernommen von Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route

Nice shady crack climbing. A very obvious trad corner that just needed a bolt to get started.

Start: Starts up on high ledge (scramble up easy stuff 10m left of Guernica).

Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2007

Nigh jugs exist and surprisingly sustained.

Start: Starts 6m left of 'Guernica', and 2m left of offwidth.

Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2007

Sandy wide crack connects into hard sport route.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Slippety Slope'.

Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2007

Sandy and runout. A real adventure!

Start: Takes the south eastern arete of the block with a very exciting finish. Protection is pretty crap most of the way up.

Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff & Philip Armstrong, 1978

You either love it or hate it.

Start: Climbs the blank face right of 'Guernica' with several BR's.

Erste freie Begeh.: Unknown, 2000

Totally desperate.

Start: Instead of bailing off to the left, continue up the very thin face past a few more BR's. Unrepeated?

Erstbegehung: Bruce Dowrick, 1987

A simply stunning arete with a real hard grit feel. Recently retrobolted, which removed the once vital RP above the 2nd bolt.

Start: This is the square cut prow 10m right of 'Guernica'.

Erstbegehung: Dave Vass, 1986

A good line which unfortunately doesn't live up to expectations due to soft rock.

Start: Takes the obvious broken crack that splits the north face of the 'Guernica Block' about 5m right of 'That Fearful Vortex'. Triples of hand and fist crack sized cams are useful. Rap off manky sling below mega choss.

Erstbegehung: Philip Armstrong & Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Curving s-crack which is hidden behind a tree. Not really climbable wihout tying the tree back out of the way!

Start: Follow the crack 5m right of Where The Woozle Wasn't to the break, then bop up and left to the belay in the cave on WTWW. Rap off manky sling.

Erstbegehung: Brian Alder, Dave Vass & Bruce Dowick, 1986

Felswand ist nicht lokalisiert

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Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Autor(en): Steve Toal

Datum: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(en): Steve Toal

Datum: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(en): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Datum: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

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Mi 14 Jun
Finde heraus, was in Guernica Block passiert.

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