Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
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Loopeys | |||||
V5 | ★ Henry's Hot Sister Dave
Start the same as 'Lukewarm Hank' but instead of topping out continue climbing right through some big moves and top out in the seam left of 'Hot Henry's' Finish. Erstbegehung: 2013 | ||||
V8 | ★ Hot Henry
Climbs the low barrel roof 20m before the line of Old Henry's. Sit-start and using painful pockets, head leftwards diagonally up the wall with ever-stretched out feet. Aim for the slopey gaston and topout shortly thereafter. Rumored to be soft at the grade. | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Old Henry's Fun Climb
Sit-start at the base of the black streak matching on a big sloper. A dynamic move leads to the good horizontal, then a long RH lock move and onwards up the crimpy face. Highball and a tad committing above a very bad landing, but absolutely classic. Originally given V6 by coming in from the right using a LH gaston (crux) but most people ignore this due to the proximity of the ground (it's hard to stay off it!) | 5m | |||
V10 | Old Henry's Sit Start
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V4 | Grovelling Crab Style
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V2 | ★★ One Sleep
Sit start at back of the cave and climb left around the to finish as for two sleeps | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Two Sleeps
Classic central problem through the cave. | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ Center Problem In Cave
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V4 | ★ Three Sleeps
Sit start for Two Sleeps and climb the right side of the cave to an easier exit out right of the roof. | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ Uncle Jangalang
Start as james but from flat edge dyno directly out to slopey lip and mantle. | ||||
V5 | Problem with Ruppert
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V2 | ★ Ruppert
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V1 | ★ James
The arete leading to a mantle on the leftside of the cave. Start matching on the block, then head up via a 'rib' feature, finishing via a mantle topout. An easier (V0) version is to head left at the sloper (thereby missing out the rib feature). | 3m | |||
V10 | In Your Jesus Christ Pose
Crawl into the dark cave left of 'Passion' and sit-start on the right matching a big sloper. Traverse left via a massive iron-cross move (hence the name) and finish on the left. Erstbegehung: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Passion
The left most line on the main face. Sit start on good slanting holds and climb the right trending diagonal weakness to mantle over the huge lip. | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Klaposterperle
Start as for 'Passion' and then from the crimps of that problem head right via two more crimps (or pocket) to gain the start of 'Fashion'. Finish up this. | ||||
V4 | ★★ Fashion
RH right-trending crack weakness. Starts on the low jugs and climbs up the weakness to a crux move reaching up for a gaston pocket. Was massively overgraded at V5 for a long time. | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Bitch Slap
Low sit-start on jugs to a big move for a bad sloper. Crux is gaining the sharp 3-finger pocket, one way or another. | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★ Winterkirsch
A bum-dragging traverse that looks great but is obviously spoilt by the proximity of the ground (at least you won't hurt yourself!) Traverse from the start of 'Bitch Slap' rightwards all the way to the arete, and topout via a sloper and better lip holds. | ||||
V11 | Panoptikum
Start as for 'Passion' then traverse all the way across the crux of Klapusterperle, through the start of 'Bitch Slap' and finish as for 'Winterkirsch'. Has also been done by finishing up 'Bitch Slap' (Sharik Walker) at no change in grade. Erstbegehung: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Circus Jerkus
Sit-start around the corner from the main wall at the large jug. Straight up to a RH sidepull, then traverse left across the slopey lip to a very tricky Fontainebleau-like mantle. Can also be done by going left into the finish of 'Winterkirsch' prior to gaining the lip, followed by the mantle. V7 if you do it this way. | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Circus Jerkus Low
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V2 | ★ Flakeshake
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V2 | Ginger
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V8 | If six was nine
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V3 | ★ From the round pocket
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V4 | The Egg
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V7 | Walking on the Wildside
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V7 | ★★ Henrietta the Deep Voiced Goat
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V3 | Grovelling sideways and emerging into the light
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V4 | ★ Hot Carl
Sit start on obvious edge behind old tree. Make a huge move rightt then traverse sloped ledge and head up obvious weakness. | 2m | |||
V6 | ★★ Who The Fuck is Henry?
As for the Grampians Boulder Guide 2016 Edition. | 2m | |||
V7 | ★★ Devil's Councillor
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V6 | Scary Monsters
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V4 | ★★★ Hike the moon
Start at bottom of first black streak on jugs, climb up through crimps to finish on good holds Erstbegehung: Riccardo Toto Monetta | ||||
V0 | ★★ Fledgling
Follow the orange streak to the left of the crack to a juggy arete. Fun low grade highball. Erste freie Begeh.: Neil Jenman, 22 Sep 2018 | 10m | |||
Eagle
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V8 | ★★★ Eagle's Nest
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V5 | ★★ Sunset Arete
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V3 | ★ Sans Cigarette
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Hollow Mountain Cave | |||||
V9 | ★★★ X-treme Cool
Big moves on big holds starting right at the very base of the cave (at the 'window'). Finish on the large hold at the start of 'Sleepy Hollow'. Erstbegehung: Klem Loskot, 2000 | ||||
V4 | ★ Easy Does It
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V7 | ★★ Aphrodite
Starts at the end of 'Easy Does It' and climbs to a good hold a couple of moves past the start of 'Sleepy Hollow'. Erstbegehung: Alison Wong, 2000 | ||||
V12 | The big flake link
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V14 | X-treme Cool + The big flake link
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V12 | ★★★ Sleepy Hollow
Start on the large jug in the darkest depths of the cave - (the finish of X-Treme Cool) and head out to the jug at the start of Cave Man Erstbegehung: Fred Nicole, 2000 | ||||
V13 | UnderSiege
Links X-Treme Cool into 'Sleepy Hollow'. First ascent spread over 12 days. Erstbegehung: Sharik Walker, 2000 | ||||
V15 | Sleepy Rave
Links 'Sleepy Hollow' + Cave Girl + Dead Can't Dance - first ascent spread over a mere 3 days. Erstbegehung: Dai Koyamada, 2000 | ||||
V9 | ★★★ CaveGirl
A variant way of doing 'Cave Man', essentially eliminating the big RH gaston move, but climbing the same problem. | ||||
V13 | ★★★ SleepyMan
Link 'Sleepy Hollow' into Cave Girl Erstbegehung: Dai Koyamada, 2000 | ||||
V9 | ★★★ CaveMan
The moderate classic of the cave - but that starts and ends nowhere in particular. Start: Start on the major flake line, about 5 metres from the bottom wall of the cave - on a realtively juggy flakey bit. Erstbegehung: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V10 | ★★★ Annagramma
Erstbegehung: Thomas Willenberg, 2000 | ||||
V12 | ★★★ CaveBitch
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V13 | Pretty Hate Machine
Links Cave Bitch into Dead Can't Dance, finishing as for 'Rave Heart' Erstbegehung: Matt Wrigley, 2000 | ||||
V15 | Pretty Hate Machine Var
Pretty Hate Machine with the Eve Reve finish Erstbegehung: Dai Koyamada, 2000 | ||||
V13 | ★★ CaveRave
Klem Loskot's piece de resistance - Climb all of Cave Man and keep going into the crux of Dead Can't Dance, and finish up 'Rave Heart'. Erstbegehung: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V14 | Eve Rave
Climb Cave Man into all of Dead Can't Dance. Erstbegehung: Fred Nicole, 2000 | ||||
V5 | DCD Finish
Standing start from the big lip sloper after the original DCD crux - reverse the 'Ogre Thumb' pinch move and finish up Wimmel Friedhoff. | ||||
V11 | ★★★ Dead Can't Dance
Starts on the two 'rails' - at the finish of Cave Man - then climbs out via the famous 'pinch' hold into a gaston crux (the pinch hold of Rave Heart) finishing as for Wimmel Friedhoff. Erstbegehung: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V8 | ★★ BodyEater
Lip traverse from a jump start into the roof left of Wimmel Friedhoff, and finish up the groove just before the start of this problem. Erstbegehung: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Wimmelfriedhof
A long problem on the lip of the cave, finishing up pockets. Standing start and pull on, then motor horizontally toward 'Ogre Thumb' crux, then up on pockets. Pumpy. Erstbegehung: Klem Loskot, 1990 | 5m | |||
V5 | ★ Ogre Thumb Finish
Standing start matching the hanging sloper, then rightwards reversing the underclings of 'Amniotic World' into the finish of 'Rave Heart'. A classic problem in its own right. | ||||
V9 | ★★★ Ogre Thumb
Start as for Wimmel Friedhoff and finish up 'Rave Heart'. Erstbegehung: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Rave Heart
One of the easier problems, but quite good. Start: Start on the top right hand side of the cave where the lip almost touches the ground. Bum drag to start. Erstbegehung: Klem Loskot & crew., 1999 | ||||
V9 | ★★★ Amniotic World
Start as for 'Rave Heart' and finish up Wimmel Friedhoff Erstbegehung: Julian Saunders, 2000 | ||||
V10 | ★★ Extended World
Start on the furthest RH sloper right of 'Rave Heart' original start - then traverse left into 'Amniotic World' and finish up it. Erstbegehung: Klem Loskot, 2000 | ||||
V9 | ★★ Extended Heart
Start as for 'Extended World' but finish as for all of 'Rave Heart'. Erstbegehung: Tim O'Neill, 2000 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Palm Beach
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V13 | Stuck South of the Border
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V5 | ★ Silverchair
Starts right of 'Krusti' at the bottom of the cave and heads out leftwards to finish on that problem's large sloping finish hold. | ||||
V9 | ★★ Krusti
Funky fun. More technical than hard really. Start: Start at the bottom left hand side of the cave (near a 'window'). Erstbegehung: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Papparazzi
Sit-start left of Krusti's start, up into underclings - then traverse left. Erstbegehung: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V9 | Eye of the Tiger
Sit-start left of Paparazzi and traverse right all the way to Krusti's finish hold. Erstbegehung: Sharik Walker, 2000 | ||||
V15 | ★★★ The Wheel Of Life
The long standing open project linking the entire 'Hollow Mountain Cave' end to end. Start as for X-Treme Cool (V9), and keep climbing into all of 'Sleepy Hollow' (V12), Cave Girl (V8/9), Dead Can't Dance (V11) - finishing up 'Rave Heart'. Route grade of 36/37 Erstbegehung: Dai Koyamada, 2000 | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Desire
Easy Does It into 'Aphrodite' Erstbegehung: Alison Wong, 2000 | ||||
V11 | Viva Resistance
Link Body Eater into 'Ogre Thumb' Erstbegehung: Nathan Hoette, 2000 | ||||
V4 | Grovelling Crab Style and emerging Into the Light
Pretty much as the name suggests. Erstbegehung: Kyle Dunsire, 2000 | ||||
V13 | X-Treme link
Links X-Treme Cool into The big flake link Erstbegehung: Dai Koyamada, 2000 | ||||
V11 | Cave Heart
X-Treme cool into 'Desire' Erstbegehung: Ben Heason, 2000 | ||||
V8 | Gastonia
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V10 R | ★★ American Pie
Jump start, left of Body Eater, and dyno towards the lip and top out. Erstbegehung: Alan Pryce, 2000 | ||||
V12 | The big flake link variant
Link 'Easy Does It' into 'Sleepy Hollow' | ||||
V11 | Caved Out
Starts up 'Extended World' V10, drops down into Wimmel Friedhof V5 and then finishes up 'Gastonia' V8 Erstbegehung: Ben Heason, 2000 | ||||
V12 | Cave Woman/Bitch
Takes an extreme line to the right of Cave Man, climbing into that problem's finish. Erstbegehung: Sam Edwards/Bernhard Fiedler, 2000 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Cave Man Finish
Start mid-way across Cave Man on the big lip jug (after the crux of the main problem) and climb to its finish. | ||||
V15 | The Wheel Of Life Direct
As per the normal Wheel Of Life problem, but with a more difficult and direct finish Erste freie Begeh.: James Kassay, 2012 Erstbegehung: James Kassay, 2012 | ||||
36 | Wheelchair
Starts as for the Wheel of Life, but halfway through Sleepy Hollow traverses into Stimulation and climbs the whole of Stimulation (with the exception of the first move) till its end, which is also the finish of Silverchair – hence Wheelchair. Erste freie Begeh.: Alex Megos, 2013 | ||||
Legoland | |||||
V6 | Wife Beater
Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height. Starts left of 'Feminst Theory'. | ||||
V4 | Woman at Point Zero
Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height. | ||||
V5 | Feminist Theory
Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height. Starts left of 'Woman at Point Zero'. | ||||
V9 | Orca
Left arete of the main boulder - 4m left of CM. First ascent by Julien Saunders. Erstbegehung: Julian Saunders, 2000 | 9m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Critical Mass
Central line up the face 4m left of WWE | ||||
V6 | Wet With Excitement
Right arete of main block | ||||
V4 | ★★★ The Tunnel
Takes a line on the face right of the 'Wet With Excitement' arete. | ||||
V2 | ★ The Train
Problem right of 'The Tunnel' just left of the arete. | ||||
V3 | The Conductor
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V0 | Unnamed
Takes the lower arete of the Orca boulder. Walk downhill to the right of 'Wet With Excitement'. | ||||
V0 | Not Nalle
Opposite Orca is this less harrowing route. Sit start to improving holds. | ||||
V4 | ★ Fern Gully
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V6 | ★★ Fatigue
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