Einträge in Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

This was originally graded 17 as the FA was quite straight-forward on hand jams. Repeats found it quite a bit harder, maybe because they were laybacking?

Originally graded 17 (as was Chocolate Frog), so the grade has been bumped up by the same amount. Could someone please repeat both in the same day and provide feedback?! It is also believed that Peter Stebbins may have done a direct start into this line past a bolt, at grade 19. Confirmation of this would also be appreciated.

This is the direct start with BR into Chocolate Frog done with Andrew Stevens

Hard thin face moves past BRs onto sloping bulge

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Hard pumpy direct start (BR) into Gunga Din.

Start as for Flying Blind. Either stick clip the high 1st RB or place a small cam or nut in FB. Up FB for a few moves before a move L up onto the face and vague arete. Up this and make a spectacular move over the roof on jugs to the lower off.

Takes the line up the proudest section of the orange wall. Climb pumpy overhang to the roof, R a few moves, then pull up and traverse spectacularly back L along the lip of the roof, and up.

Obvious jam cracks in wall 5m R of Flying Blind. Marked with a square.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Has some loose rock.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

This looks quite ok! Starts next to chossy chimney and climbs a rising traverse R, leading into a great looking traverse line.

Never written up, but reportedly a route has been done up the beautiful wall halfway along the 'Cucumber Sandwich' traverse.

Start 15m R of the chossy chimney and immediately R of smooth orange wall. Up corner / arete, leading to a juggy chimney up high.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Front of small buttress 5m R of Mongoose, straight up, finishing through small roof.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

Licenced Tour Operators (Paid) only at this cliff, which is a shame as it's a fabulous wall for families, top-roping etc.

Corners to small roof, take this up right-hand side and up to top.

5m right of Drop Tail

4m right of Boots And All. There may be two ferns in a crack here. Up to small roof and over this.

3m right of Two Fern. Crack.

3m right of Silly Old B. Diagonal crack to the right, then corner.

Crack 1m left of Grabbin' Runners for 15m and step right to finishing ledge of that climb.

6.5m right of Toasting Fork.Up to thin move right then straight up.

Up to flake 1 right of Grabbin' Runners then up and right.

2.5m right of (? Electric Pink). Straight up.

Wall 3m right of Gettin' Hungry, veering slightly left.

2m right of Gettin' Hungry

9.5m right of Gettin' Hungry

Nice long wall with lots of fun problems. Great quality rock, good landings. The main wall faces west and overhangs 5 to 20 degrees.

Traverse left on large pockets. Follow line of pockets down around the arete and corner (reversible at the same grade).

Sit start at base of crack. Pocket and crimp to ledges and jams. Fun!

standing start on crimp and gaston. (much harder sit start looks good)

Standing start. Up wall on side pulls and layaways to a pinch at 5m, then 'hero' jugs to the top. Fun! Spooky.

Start up Crouching Leopard Hidden Orchid to the crux then head left to the pocket of the V3-4. You only get the V7 if you traverse into the V3-4 above the side jug and don't use it.

Start below Live long and Prosper he'd diagonally left and then up the blank grey wall

Start as for Vulcan Grip and head left and up increasing in difficulty to a final mono before popping to the welcome jug

Sit start. Make the sign, then up rightwards to flake/pinch. Up. Fun!

Up prominent 'mini' corner via finger lock.

Up and left via rail and seam.

Rail to jug over rooflet (via blank wall). Fuel up the rocket boosters!

Sit start, then up side pulls/undercling to crimp to high jug. Continue up right with a big reach or pike left. Great fun!

Hard 3 moves - Sit start still waiting to be done

Start as for Too Much Candy when it heads back right head out left to a good hold in the streak then up

Sit start then up left via rail to pocket then up wall above veering slightly back right. Traverse off right or up through spooky gargoyles.

Sit start to crimps. Up.

Climb the underbelly and out to the left of the Echidna! Sit-start as for Echidna's Nose with LH low on left arete and RH on good crimp. Stay low and make tension-y moves out left to the juggy flake. From here, make a hard move to the good crimp rail, and then powerful moves into the scoop. Finish up trending left. Eliminates obvious broken ledges and pedestal ledge.

Starts the same as The Echidna's Underbelly until the juggy flake. From the juggy flake, make a big move up and right to more jugs without using the obvious right arete (i.e., don't use holds from Echidna's Nose). Eliminates obvious broken ledges and pedestal ledge.

The overhanging arete on the lone block in the middle of the crag. Exit on the left side of the nose. Eliminates obvious broken ledges and pedestal ledge.

A steep little crag of strong lines tucked away below the trees underneath Sandinista Wall. This could be called Lindorff Crag as Kevin was involved in almost every one of these routes. His trademark hard grading and technical crack moves are a feature of this area. It's a shame that the best routes on this crag all feature an awkward tree scramble to get started. This is one of the only cliffs in this area that is suitable for top-roping, due to the easy top access, although some routes are too steep to toprope. Some excellent bouldering has been done on the left side. This place is protected from light rain and gets morning sun although the trees keep it generally shady for most of the day.

Why did Kevin bother with this pathetic excuse for a bolted boulder problem? One crap bolt also scars what could have been an all trad crag.

Start: Towards the far left end of the cliff is an alcove with a large sandy boulder. This is the left leaning line marked with white paint.

A chossy, vegetated and overhanging diagonal.

Start: 2m right of 'Loaded'. Marked.

More un-inspirational stuff.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Black Powder'.

One move wonder down low.

Start: The overhanging blocky crack 10m right of 'Buckshot'. Finish up the left leaning juggy crack to ledge.

Excellent climbing with a very technical finish. One of the only Scott Camps projects that he actually managed to get up!

It's short but desperate. One of the only true finger-cracks in the area.

Start: The overhanging thin crack 3m right of 'Crazy Da Must Sing' and in the centre of the crag. A large hold snapped off a few years ago, making it one grade harder, and giving the belayer a fair injury, but it could've killed him 30cm to the left.

Steep, powerful and bloody awkward for gym bunnies.

Start: Starts a few metres right of 'Powder Monkey' on the right edge of ledge.

Brutal boulder problem intro and easy finish.

Start: Starts beneath the left of the twin recessed corners which start halfway up the cliff on the big ledge just right of Karma-lites.

There are CH sites along the overhangs of this cliff that require extra protections, and it's also close to the main tourist trail.

Thrutch fest!

Start: The right hand of the two corners.

There are CH sites along the overhangs of this cliff that require extra protections, and it's also close to the main tourist trail.

A total sandbag with a finish that is rather exciting.

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Kalashnikov'.

Short bouldery start which eases considerably in the upper half.

Start: Starts around 6m right of 'Primed'.

A contrived and pointless bouldery start leads to a good variant finish to 'Greyhounds In Space'.

Start: Start 3m right of Greyhounds.

Nice face route. A bit short.

Start: Start 4m left of 'Levitation' at far left end of wall.

Wickedly hard start. Thin wall special up tortoise shell rock.

Start: Marked. Goes up the middle of a small north facing wall that you pass on the left on your way into the Amphitheatre.

Another pumpy thin face on excellent shell rock.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Levitation'. Marked.

Squeezed in.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Airplay', just left of corner.

Short and ordinary.

Start: Start about 8m around right of 'Airplay' and 4m left of a wide scrubby corner.

A few ok routes hidden away in the jungle surrounding the Andersons bouldering area. Most people don't even realize that there is roped climbing tucked below the main cliffs.

Short and sharp. The overhanging orange wall with three FHs.

The original line (24) traversed left and then back right, avoiding the dyno. The direct version powers straight up past 3 FHs.

A bit contrived. Grade may vary according to exact line taken.

Start: Start 1m right of 'Bolt Action Directe' at thin right-leading crack.

A pumpy rising traverse that barely gets more than five metres from the ground. Some would call this a highball boulder problem.

Start: Located on wall opposite 'Bolt Action'. Start at left end of wall in alcove at well chalked slopers.

Can be finished either by stepping left to easier ground (20) or gently right to high jug (22).

Start: Start as for 'Pump Action' but continue straight up wall.

Not the beginner route that Kevin tried to pretend it was.

Start: Starts on the front side of the 'Pump Action' boulder, facing the 'Hollow Mountain' carpark.

One of the most popular sport crags in the 'Grampians' - and one of the easiest to get to. Recent bolting (and retrobolting) has created a popular and busy little sector which contrasts nicely with the original old school trad routes. There is a wide variety of styles and grades so that most climbers would be pretty happy spending a day in this delightful shaded glen. The rock is extremely featured with large pockets and seams but can vary in quality with the lower section of the main wall suffering from sandy rock.

Historically this area has been one of the most developed crags at 'Hollow Mountain'. In 1983 the Lindorff brothers established the two infuriatingly thin face routes of 'Airplay' (21) and 'Levitation' (22) as well as the undeservedly ignored 'No Fixed Address' (21). A few years later Louise Shepherd established one of the first of the hard routes in the area with her bold ascent of 'Amnesty International' (24). Her partner on this route, Steve Monks, added his own wicked creation, the drought affected 'Chinese Water Torture' (22). In the early 90s Martin Lama and Graeme Smith added two variations to a theme on the 'Airplay' wall. 'Julia Roberts' (21) and 'Infinite Dreams' (22) were the result. In 1993 James McIntosh lead his way through choss and moss to create his own version of the 'Lost Arrow' spire (15). Seven years later Ray Lassman and Keith Lockwood boldly climbed the arete right of the main wall to produce No Fixed Gear (18). Unfortunately this route lasted less than twelve months before it was unknowingly retrobolted by Dianne Fermi to create the aptly named 'Amnesia' (17). This act heralded a near explosion of new route activity by a new younger generation of sport climbers. Matt Brooks returned with a vengeance establishing one of the hardest routes outside of 'Sandinista' Wall with his 'United Nations' (30). He also added the very popular 'The Tyrants Grasp' (22) and 'Freedom Fighter' (27). David Isaacs created further controversy by bolting a crack/seam to create 'Sting' Like A Bee (24). Recent years have seen the rest of the real estate slowly being filled by extensions, linkups and the usual. This area has become one of the more popular sport crags in the 'Grampians'.

There is no CH here; but environmental issues might be a concern. Tread lightly.

Popular but awkward climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of 'The Flying Emu'.

This is one of the easiest sport routes in the 'Grampians' to be partially protected from rain.

Start: Starts below the overhang three metres left of the large chimney chasm to the left of Float Like A 'Butterfly'.

Links 'The Flying Emu' into 'Float Like a Butterfly'.

Sustained steep climbing on big incuts for most of the way. One of the driest routes in the Hollow Mtn area, until the last few metres. One grade harder than 'Sting Like a Bee' and one grade easier than 'Amnesty International'. Start: Furthest left route on the main pocketed wall, with RB's. Watch out for the ledge fall potential up high due to the block on the left.

Climb the overhanging sharp crack system, then a great juggy headwall. Stick clip 1st bolt.

superceded by direct. Original wandering line best forgotten

traverse left from 3 bolt on tyrants past 5 U's to anchor.

One of the best grade 22 sport routes in 'Victoria', even though the start is very close to being a retrobolt of CWT. Seeps heavily in the dead of winter, although the key holds can be dryer than they look. Rebolted and extended 2017

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Sting' Like A Bee on small ledge.