Einträge in Iskra Crag

Now updated with all new and old climbs from the original North Grampians guidebook. Not everything has been verified, if you spot a mistake, feel free to correct.

All the climbing areas on Western side of Iskra. Mostly easy trad climbing. Most crags face west, so have sun after 1pm.

There are two prominent faces on this outcrop. One faces the Sunstroke area and is yellow, the other one is grey and faces West.

Because it‘s good in the morning? The flake towards the right end of the yellow face. Climb the flake then mantle shelf to gain the corner. Up this to the top.

Start about 1m right of left edge of the yellow wall. Go straight the line of least resistance. Top roped FA.

On the grey face near where the boulders form a cave. Go up the short obvious corner, then walk up the easy slab and onto the right hand edge of the face by which you gain the summit.

Start 4m L of Continuar Sonriendo. Off boulder and straight up face, finishing L of the thin shallow crack.

Start as for House of Cards. Step L and climb the flake leading diagonally L. Jug out to the top.

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Start at the obvious cleft at the left end. Bridge up and follow the weakness through to the top.

Start as for Shadow Streak. Go left up the easy ramp and through the overhang to the top.

Start 8m left of Sunlight And Shadow. Up the crack to the overhangs. Step right and follow the black streak to the top.

In the middle of the face at the initials. The obvious line.

Start 3m right of the initials. Up the slab and over the overhang to the orange scoop. Walk left to finish up the regular route.

Start 1m left of This is Not Funny. Move more or less straight up the wall to the top. Possibly under-graded.

As for THIS IS NOT FUNNY VARIANT START. Go right up the jugs to a ledge. Move 2m R then straight up.

Best looking of the smaller satellite crags and has a few ok lines.

Val's First Lead. The obvious narrow chimney on the north facing wall of the cliff.

Prominent nose at the very L end of the crag. Up the face and through the bulge at the top.

The corner line L of the prominent chimney.

The easy corner immediately R of the narrow chimney, moving L at the top for an easy exit.

Most attractive line on the crag - vertical crack / seam 1m R of Coccyx Corner.

The next line 3m R of Bums Rush. Keep in the line at the top.

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L of Sunstroke, line of overhangs rise from R to top L. This climb takes the middle of the three breaks in the overhangs. Originally climbed by finishing up the twin shallow corners on the terrace above (add 10m).

Start at the orange and grey rock just L of Sunstroke at the 'cheating stones'. Head diagonally L finishing as for Coccyx Corner.

Roof system with L leading diagonal. Good unlikely moves, follow the line all the way. Finishing easily - or surmount final roof.

At the R end of cliff, R of Sunstroke, straight up to arete, then diagonally L and across the face immediately above lip of the overhang.

Spectacular. The arete, then up and over the square roof.

The next two climbs are on the small outcrop opposite (West of) Sunstroke.

Small north facing steep wall on terrace opposite Summa's a Bummer. X cracks on left side of wall.

2m right of the west buttress’s left arete.

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A few m L of Quantum Sufficit is small black hole in the rock. Start 1m R of this and go straight up to the ledge. Climb the overhang at the arete and up.

Up the corner / arete 3m L of Pigs in Space, to finish up wall just left of that climb.

Start in the middle of the face. Line leading to the L end of the square cut roof and up the corner.

3m R of Pigs in Space. Climb to the RHS of the square roof, and up.

1m R of TRR. Up to the L leaning orange roof, up this to break out R onto the delicate face, then back L.

This wall is separated from Dolgoruki Wall by a large gully that runs down right. lt is the main buttress that runs along the top of the Western side. About one third of the way along is the prominent line of Election Promise.

First pitch is sustained quality at about 16. However, the second pitch is 20+ depending on your height (can be bypassed). Start at the grey arete immediately right of the 'hole' in the cliff. 1) 30m. Straight up to large ledge below overhangs. 2) 10m. Lunge or boulder straight up to jugs on lip of roof and continue to top.

Supposedly this climb is on an outcrop above Pigs in Space buttress, below the main wall (more or less between DD and EP. Takes the obvious corner line.

The short corner then the easy angled corner right of DD. (Could be a repeat of Cheap and Nasty).

“Guarantees not to tax you, but it‘s a bit suss". Back on the main cliff, the large flake / chimney about one third of the way along the wall.

Enjoyable airy climbing. Starts below a crack which runs up to a big roof. 1) 35m. Climb the first overhang directly to the crack and follow it to the overlap. Traverse up L under the overlap to a recessed corner. Up the arete and traverse L under the roof to a small ledge. 2) 10m. Move left and straight up.

Excellent value. Surprisingly easy for such steep rock. Starts as for BBBB. Climb the crack all the way to the big roof, step L and straight up.

Starts from the RH end of the long overlap - scramble up slab to a ledge to start. Move L above the overlap and climb the corner until it breaks up. Move L above roof, and up.

Most NW outcrop of the crag, but only has one climb.

The corner / slab bordering the L side of the sandy overhangs.

Includes the first route done (Dolgoruki Direct) and the East facing orange wall to the L. It is complicated somewhat by the 3 tiers that the climbs start from.

Start: 10m R of Dolgoruki Direct on the W facing part of the buttress. Flake crack to scoop, up corner to belay in through-cave. The other side of the cave is on the First Tier ledge, scramble off.

Start at the edge of the rib at the foot of the main buttress. 1) 43m. Ascend the rib to a ledge at 4m, up overhanging chimney then follow the edge of the rib to the obvious overhang. 2) 15m. Climb through the slight break in the overhang (one of those height dependent gradings - you have been warned). Immediately above the lip traverse R for 3m to the rib then continue vertically to a large ledge. 3) 36m. Keeping as close to the edge of the rib as possible, but actually on the R wall, continue on to the summit and glory.

The next set of climbs are on the tiered walls to the L of the Dolgoruki rib (Facing East), each tier being separated by a ledge where it is possible to walk / scramble off.

On the lowest tier of the orange wall. Steep flake / crack in the middle of the wall.

Second Tier

The RH crack above, and to the L of Mandela. Good holds on deceptively steep face.

Starts a few m left of WTGAD and climbs the face via the flakes (with care) to the top. Poor rock and pro.

The following 4 climbs start on the 3rd Tier, split by the obvious wide crack of 'Technique', 15.

Start behind (now burnt) pine trees at the far L end of the 3rd tier (at the head of a minor gully). Up R to a blunt arete and past a bolt to the top.

The obvious wide, leaning, corner crack.

Starts from the LH end of the main ledge (6m R of the wide crack). Up wall trending L then up to top.

L leading line / corners at the R end of the 3rd Terrace - more or less directly above WTGAD. Can also be more easily approached by climbing the first 2 pitches of DD and up this, rather than traversing off R.

The original guidebook describes 4 more routes (Black Stump etc); these climbs are on the next buttress uphill, and face directly East - and are more accurately described under the Eastern Walls. However they can be easily accessed from here, by walking up and L past the gully that leads to Game Plan. You can then also scramble down to Septic Crank, and easily to the rest of the Eastern Walls.

Wall with orange streaks facing Mt Zero Road road (-36.886852, 142.392997). This is a perfect winter crag; short walk-in, sheltered from the wind and in the sun the whole day.

The line of RBs to the left of the big block on the main face. Up and right to big flake. Powerful move over flake and straight up. Finishing the route using the right-hand juggy arete makes it a consistent 21 while the intended direct finish might be 22.

Setter (who is not FA) insisted on route name....Climb the first 2 RBs from ‘Don’t cheat on me’. After the second RB continue straight up following the line of FHs. Reach high for the clip at the final overhang and power straight up on good slopers to anchor.

The line of FHs to the left of ‘Don’t cheat on me’. Start with obvious pockets and small edges to good rest. Big move over bulge, then up and left to glue-reinforced hold. Big moves on good holds through overhang to anchor.

Nothing to write home about, but nice trad / inconsistent crack line just L of roof/cave. Bolts on Pulled Out to start.

Little wall to the left and in front of the main wall. Straight up via good holds to ledge. Up through orange scoops to juggy arete. Up and over the lip to the right to anchors.

The Eastern walls is the line cliffs higher up on the Eastern side of Iskra. It contains climbs from the original guide, and also newer bolted climbs and projects. Routes vary considerably, but there is some great rock to be found, even if the best bits aren't all that long.

Described L to R, the following few climbs face East (at the top of the Eastern Walls), and include the steep, compact wall of Goelro Plan, projects and few trad lines in the recess.

Looks totally worthless, but has an intense section of climbing that's much better than it looks. Up easy ramp just L of chimney, awkward moves around roof into thin slanting crack, which is followed to easier ground. Quite independent of KOFTSW until the last 10m or so.

Crack-line in the recess left of Matt's Corner, start easily up into deep chimney. Then short crack "steeping requires a bit of effort, but it is worth it".

Subtle corner / seam L of GP Extension. FH's finishes at loweroff (which is ok, but bolts do need replacing). Scamble up start, then all FH's up the line.

This is the left most bolted route on the main prominent orange buttress and follows an undercut orange corner. Stick clip the first bolt. Undercut start then follow hanging corner with as many tricks as you can muster to hang on to the slopey lay-aways. Finish on ledge at U bolt.

CLOSED PROJECT, Adam Demmert - Steep wall above Goelro Plan with 3 bolts to anchor.

Start: Closed project

Start: Awesome position. Starts on the North face of 'Eastern Walls' and traverses left to arête and up awesome position. An old project opened up by Chris. Grade is ????

Start as for FASAFWF and then straight up on very small holds very far apart

Climb the line 5m L of WR (8m L of major chimney / corner line) and about 15m R of the projects on the blank wall. Finish up R.

This is the L curving crack in the orange wall 3m L of the corner / chimney line. Follow the line to the ridge.

Finger / corner crack immediately on the R side of the chimney corner.

Starts across from WR. 3 Rings are a retrobolt.

This climb is to the R of the previous climb and around the arete. Ascend via the diagonal seam. Rings are almost certainly retrobolts, and climb a more direct and slightly harder line (original trad line moves R at 2/3rds height) No anchor (walk off R).

Line about 3-4 R of DO. Awkward moves past the two main ledges to a bolt runner higher up.

The following climbs are to the R of, and above the East face propper, but are a continuation of this cliff. From the smooth wall of Rainbow Warrior, scramble up R to the obvious line of SC (the bolts could possibly be a retrobolt of this route at a lower grade, 23/24). Continue a little up and R to get to the Black Stump climbs.

Great climbing up the obvious bolted layback line on N facing prow at the far RH end, and above the Eastern Walls. DBB on the wall at the top is NOT the top of the climb (23 to this point). Clip anchor, then make committing moves R to hanging rib, and another bolt to the top. Backclimb to anchor. NB: Bolts are likely a retrobolt of the original, which was grade 25 on trad gear, finishing up flake at the top.

Starts on the RH end of the block that forms the top half of Septic Crank. Up arete, past a bolt runner to the top.

10m L of BTBB on the same wall. Desperate climbing with spaced pro.

On the East facing block just above and R of SC. Can also be approached from the top of the gully of the 3 Tiers. The slanting crack up the middle of the wall.

Back down on a thin buttress just below the Eastern Walls

Good, but slightly contrived climbing on an independent grey buttress below and N of the Eastern Walls. Up short diagonal crack, then up the nice grey wall, keeping to the L for the best climbing. At the top is a nice surprise mini 2nd pitch (and topping out is a better way to descend).

Small outcrop up behind Iskra proper.

At undercut rounded northwest arête, on the terrace.

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Short but incredibly steep orange wall which overhangs approx 45 degrees. Has been both aided (historically), and now known also as Project wall in the bouldering guide. The aid routes AND boulders have been listed, but they are often the same lines.

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