Einträge in Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)

Fantastic 'limestone style' pocket climbing up central black streak on the left side of orange wall. It's just beside a heavy seepage line, but only one hold seems to get wet. Watch out for the potential fall on top of the belayer at the fourth bolt. Belay as for Terminal Insomnia. Rebolted 2022.

Excellent long moves through great pockets with an exciting finish.

There's a single ring for your belayer to tie into (plus a carrot if you brought a bolt plate).

A worthwhile link-up with a few metres of new climbing. Start as for Cosmic Psycho.

Fantastic sustained climbing up the centre of the Pocketed Wall. The finish seeps after a good rainfall, but not as badly as Motley Crue or Terminal Insomnia. Start 3m left of Sisters Of Mercy. There's a single ring for your belayer to tie into (plus a carrot if you brought a bolt plate). Rebolted 2023

Brilliant with a pumpy and demoralising finish.

Start: The right most route on the ledge. Start 5m right of Blonde Ambition at a DBB.

Not very inviting and has a reputation for a blisteringly hard crux. Seeps after rain.

Start: Start as for Billy Ray Syrus.

Good route spoilt by ledge and nasty arete finish. Seeps after rain.

Seeps like a waterfall, except during long dry spells. Great moves though.

Outstanding trad line that thankfully (or unfortunately, depending on your point of view) didn't get grid-bolted by the young guns in the early 90's. Climbers with arm-spans under 1.8m need not apply as the crux move is incredibly reachy.

Start: Takes the corner just left of 'De La Soul' and starts a few metres further left at left facing steep flake.

Sustained and technical with some powerful moves. The route is badly scarred by several aid bolts used to place the 'real' bolts.

Start: Line of flakes up very steep wall in the centre of the crag about 10m left of 'The Dope Man' and just L of a solitary pine tree against the cliff.

Links DLS into VG

Start as dope man.... punch left at ceiling campussing on pockets.

aka The Dopeman 'Extension'. An excellent line across a prominent feature. A modern classic that was somehow overlooked in the first VD Land onslaught.

Start: Start on ledge at finish of 'The Dope Man'.

"Please can I have another hit?". A classic sandbag for the belay slave. The scene of many failures.

Start: Chalked up mini route that finishes on ledge 5m left of 'Body Count'.

One of the best mid grade sport routes in the 'Grampians'. Consistently steep, with amazing pockets and cracks.

Start up the overhanging corner on the right side of the crag, about 2m right of 'The Dope Man'. This is also the start for several other routes that split off to the right.

Just what VD Land needs - another grade 24!

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

Some powerful pocket pulling down low and a delightful flake up high. It's written up as three pitches but you just link them all together into one long pitch of climbing. One star if you only climb the first pitch. Pitches 1 and 2 need rebolting. A 60m rope should be enough to lower off but a 50m won't be.

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

1. 15m (24) Jam up 'Body Count' corner past UB, then step right onto sloping ledge. Up technical pockets then diagonally right on excellent incuts to rap chain. Five FH's in all. Used to be soft at 25, let's see if it's better as a solid 24.

2. 9m (24) A touch easier than pitch 1...but not easy! Clip first FH, then step left and up the left facing flake line on the best rock around, past 2 more FHs to ledge and rap chain. It is exactly 25m back to the ground from this rap chain.

3. 8m (25) From the 2nd anchor bouldery exposed moves head up right past two bolts to finish at top anchor on 'Happiness in Magazines' (30m to ground).

A bit sharp and strange in places and wanders around a bit. Quite good though, and rather steep!

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

Rebolted 2024.

Bails around the crux of 'Suicidal Tendencies' via a nice hand crack. Originally graded 23! The crux is the first few moves on 'Body Count'. Linking this into 'Happiness in Magazines' pitch 2 is one of the best warm-ups at this whole crag (provided you bring a number of long slings to reduce rope drag). Bring a #1 BD Cam to protect the start to the first bolt if you want.

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

Brilliant pumper.

Start as for TBJM.

1. 20m (25) A great pitch for those who love Indian Creek and Buoux in equal measure. First 6 bolts of 'The Brian Jonestown Massacre' then traverse left on pockets past two bolts until joining 'My Bloody Valentine'. 9 bolts.

2. 15m (22) Really good in its own right - although some early repeats missed the 2 bolt face sequence off the ledge (look right!) and tradded up the fragile fat flake on the L instead, which is reportedly not much fun. Four U-bolts lead up a delightfully exposed flake on fantastic buckets. Mantle ledge then swing wildly out left (FH) for an orange jug. A couple more steep moves lead to lower-off. This pitch can also be approached via 'Crime Wave' (excellent warm up if you brought trad for CW) or via 'My Bloody Valentine'. Whichever first pitch you do, a 60m rope lets you belay from the ground and lower off the top of the 2nd pitch to the ground.

Up the flake on big holds, with some steep moves at the top to a DBB

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

30 degree overhung handcrack with bolts!

Start: Starts on ground level directly below Jane's Addiction and about 10m R of 'Body Count'. Upgraded.

Starts as per first four bolts of 'Jane's Addiction'. Long sling on the 4th is advised. Move left at horizontal to juggy black groove. Neat headwall to finish.

Bouldery and powerful climbing up the black streak high up on right side of amphitheatre (above 'The Brian Jonestown Massacre'). Seeps badly after rain.

To get to the start scramble with care onto ledge at the base from the right to belay at two bolts. Rebolted 2024.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Awesome looking thin hand crack through 4m horizontal roof above viewing platform directly across from De La Soul. Start sitting on back ledge. Easy lipped jugs to good jam then harder move to lip. Up easily. Could be a bit easier for those with gun crack technique. Either way great line and fun climbing.

On next tier down from the very obvious VD Roof Crack. Start back in cave on slopers with obvious foot pocket. Core intensive moves to lip then more easily up left via jugs.

As for TVDSRL to lip then a few more technical moves up right to gain slopes on upper lip and mantle. Could be easier... we were pretty baked. These have clearly been done before so feel free to edit.

This 'not permitted' bouldering overhang is right on the tourist trail, and boulderer's are better of going elsewhere.

Dynamic one-mover

More like a route. Long and intense line right of 'The Cop...' going all the way to the top of the wall.

Woody type problem up a very steep wall. Sit-start right of 'Ground Zero' and finish at the twin pockets. If you link this back into the finish of 'Ground Zero' you get 'A Long Way From Home' (V7/8)

A big traverse starting to the right of Problem #3 and finishing as for Problem #1

Tricky problem going right into the crackline of 'Impact Zone'

The LH crack weakness. Solid for 3!

The RH crack weakness starting with a sit-start

Not a bouldering area! Several nice trad face routes on a difficult to access wall. The crag is plainly obvious from the carpark but quite hard to locate when you actually reach the local area. It is the outer face of the 'Tribute' Walls.

A bit contrived. Smooth slab immediately right of 'Paragon', then continue next to it until you reach the crack. Now go straight up (crux) and trend right to finish up summit.

Quite Good. Start below the left side of the cave. Up the left edge of the

smooth rock, then trend left to finish up the obvious diagonal crack.

Nice Face. Brown streak which finishes 2m left of 'Paragon'.