Routen als boulder in Grampians

X-Treme cool into 'Desire'

Jump start, left of Body Eater, and dyno towards the lip and top out.

Link 'Easy Does It' into 'Sleepy Hollow'

Starts up 'Extended World' V10, drops down into Wimmel Friedhof V5 and then finishes up 'Gastonia' V8

Takes an extreme line to the right of Cave Man, climbing into that problem's finish.

Start mid-way across Cave Man on the big lip jug (after the crux of the main problem) and climb to its finish.

As per the normal Wheel Of Life problem, but with a more difficult and direct finish

Starts as for the Wheel of Life, but halfway through Sleepy Hollow traverses into Stimulation and climbs the whole of Stimulation (with the exception of the first move) till its end, which is also the finish of Silverchair – hence Wheelchair.

Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height. Starts left of 'Feminst Theory'.

Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height.

Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height. Starts left of 'Woman at Point Zero'.

Left arete of the main boulder - 4m left of CM. First ascent by Julien Saunders.

Central line up the face 4m left of WWE

Right arete of main block

Takes a line on the face right of the 'Wet With Excitement' arete.

Problem right of 'The Tunnel' just left of the arete.

Takes the lower arete of the Orca boulder. Walk downhill to the right of 'Wet With Excitement'.

Opposite Orca is this less harrowing route. Sit start to improving holds.

Stand start then work your way up the vertical crack.

Very high slab tucked away below and left of the Orca boulder

When meandering to The Disgruntler, you may come across this exfoliating boulder. On north side, sit start matched in pocket with high right footer. One or two punchy moves.

Awesome looking thin hand crack through 4m horizontal roof above viewing platform directly across from De La Soul. Start sitting on back ledge. Easy lipped jugs to good jam then harder move to lip. Up easily. Could be a bit easier for those with gun crack technique. Either way great line and fun climbing.

On next tier down from the very obvious VD Roof Crack. Start back in cave on slopers with obvious foot pocket. Core intensive moves to lip then more easily up left via jugs.

As for TVDSRL to lip then a few more technical moves up right to gain slopes on upper lip and mantle. Could be easier... we were pretty baked. These have clearly been done before so feel free to edit.

Dynamic one-mover

More like a route. Long and intense line right of 'The Cop...' going all the way to the top of the wall.

Woody type problem up a very steep wall. Sit-start right of 'Ground Zero' and finish at the twin pockets. If you link this back into the finish of 'Ground Zero' you get 'A Long Way From Home' (V7/8)

A big traverse starting to the right of Problem #3 and finishing as for Problem #1

Tricky problem going right into the crackline of 'Impact Zone'

The LH crack weakness. Solid for 3!

The RH crack weakness starting with a sit-start

Right arete of cave with sit-start

Reverse lowest break from right to join 'Godel Traverse' and continue left. Optional extra : go back along 'Godel Traverse'.

Up and right to break, right along break, up to next break, up to next break, right to gully.

Start: Start at 'Easy Arete'

Sit-start a metre or two right of "Pumping Station". Slopes, right to jug, up to shallow twin pockets, right to arete.

Start on small bulb-like sidepull crimps in overhung section, climb straight up throua saddle and to the left to slopers and easy but awkward mantle. First ascended in steel caps after work. Plenty of holds (some .ad, some good) and not too overhung. Really nice easy but still very fun climb.

Start at mini jugs left of the eastern rock, climb up to left edge/crimp and then right through sloper/jug mix and up through large crack in the rock. Mantle using righthand sidepull. FA in sneakers.

Warning: crux is on 3m fall onto rocks.

Tall, overhanging bubbly rock anticlockwise from Shiitake 2 or 3 meters. Start from sidepulls and head up to juggish slopers, then up to sidepulls and crimps on overhang to the right.

Open project. Suspected V2

Open Project suspected V5, mostly V1/V0 Full (maybe) traverse of boulder using lowest holds. Start on any hold (or furthest) and traverse around to overhang (or just keep going, right?)

Likely not a 1st but anyway

Start as for Man Overboard, bust horizontally left and get left hand to descent side pull, launch right hand to where your left hand was on thank god the kids are gone, then left hand up to good edge, bump left hand again to monster rounded jug, right hand stretch directly up to good hold, then pop right again and balance your way through the top out. First two moves feel like a v2 then v0 to finish.

Start matched as for Man Overboard, but continue traversing left and top out on the left of the prow. Watch out for dodgy broken rock.

Start Matched on the big juggy flake under the roof, move up & left through sloper to funky rail, then up and right through overhang on good holds to a bit of a spicy top out.

Three quite fun moves! Sit Start with funky pockets on the left under the Juggy Flake. Figure out how to pull of the ground then move to the jug, and (dynamically) up and right to a sloper on the lip of the overhang. Top out directly with a gnarly mantle!!! Don't be temped to escape left to an easier top out. Can be started deep in the overhang on crimps at about V6 (V6 FA: Oliver Tobias Bug?)

Note: Community feedback prompted grade change from V3 to V4.

Start on jugs on the right of the main overhang, climb straight up to a surprisingly spicy top out slightly to the left. Can be started on crimps deeper in the cave if you feel like adding a move or two. Please don't break your face on the top-out, you have been warned...

Start as for Tug Boat but traverse left past Axolotl on small but decent holds, rise up and continue left around overhang to top out as for Man Overboard. Guaranteed to get a pump happening.

Sit start basically under the boulder with hands on big incut rail. Go up through sloper and crimps to topout at the tallest point on the boulder.

Start on the centre of the easy wall. Go up and left and finish in the jug flake on the top left of the face.

Middle of wall, topout on jug to the right.

A deceptively tricky handcrack. Done with gloves at the grade, would be a bit harder without, and may require more skin that you are willing to give.

The steep overhang 6m left of The Beanstalk is marked by a thin seam, followed by a necky headwall high above a back breaking boulder. Will go, but it will be hard and terrifying.

The thin, high seam 3m left of The Beanstalk may be climbable.

The all too obvious seam up the west face.

Just right of the corridor (in front of a tree) are some vertical seams dropping down from the top of the boulder. Climb them from a stand start.

Start just right of Tweedle Dum, head left and up to the high rails and top out.

From a stand start just left of the tree in the middle of the face, climb the vertical seams on side pulls.

Just right of the tree in the middle of the face. From the edge and side pull, climb the seam above.

Stand start above a covered hole at the right end of the face. Climb the short face above.

Doesn't look like much but packs in some hard technical climbing. From a desperate sit start off side pulls climb the boulders nose past increasingly sloping holds.

Our advice would be not to make this your first V2. The easy line up the middle of the face 2m right of the tree, finishing just left of the crack at top.

Stand start on large jugs on face and move up through side pulls and crimps to a committing crux high off the ground. Rent a spotter or 3.

Start on obvious chalked rail (half a metre right of Ceramics) and work your way up the arête to a committing few moves up high.

The slab L of the tree up the back of the Ceramics boulder. Start just at the loose looking flake down low.

The R arete of the back of the Ceramics boulder, R of the tree, 3m of Broken China. Worth a pad or two to fill the landing.

In the cleft right of Mars Attacks is a diagonal pencil seam. Climb the seam from a stand start via several desperate moves - watch your back.

Climbs the blunt prow of the spaceship boulder from a sit start.

Sit start on small side pull edges then up with difficulty compressing heinous slopers on the awesome prow/arete (slightly left of line in printed guide)

The line in the print guide, which is not how Arnie climbed First Blood. Start as for FB but shoulder up out of the flake to crap then better sloper pockets in seam to regain upper flake.

Sit start on left hand arete (be careful of the edge now) traversing right using the lowest holds before finishing up First Blood.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C6A0yY2SpA-/

Sit start on the left side of the boulder and climb the arete to top out. Careful of the drop off.

Just left of the right end of the boulder is a scaly purple streak. Climb dimples to the shallow pocket, from where you make a big move left, finishing up the scoop.

Just another high quality, high and mighty, terrifying highball. 3m above the main track is a high purple jug. From this climb the slab and seam above.