Routen in Grampians für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Easy start of the climb to smoothish round overhang, climb directly up, placing climb just left of Casper. Placements are scarce til high so the risk of a deck fall is high temporarily. Was originally done with only nuts and slings, hence the name. The last few metres are made a lot less risky with cams, but it's also an easy top out.

Face around corner 2m left of 'Rohans Route', a few balancy crimp moves gets you to the top.

A hard and bold mantle at the start reaches jugs (crux) and easy hauling to top.

Steep and juggy sport warm-up at the far left end of the cave. Starts halfway across the approach traverse at single u-bolt belay. Up through orange jugs and then grey cracked face. Runout between bolt 1 and 2 is a bit scary.

Great easy sport route! Left most bolted line on right edge of roofy section. Big jugs up slightly overhung wall finishing at bolt anchor slightly to the right. Retrobolted - originally a trad route.

Starts in the shallow corner 2m R of DD. Follow the crack system up and slightly R, stepping back left as it steepens. Originally lead on fiddly trad. Still a touch licheny.

Extremely pleasant moves with an obvious one move crux. Follow the grey streak diagonally to arête moving right at the horizontal break. Up the headwall to clip & lower.

Sandy grey face and the arête left of Cherub. Head straight up over multiple horizontal breaks skipping the second pitch to finish at Cherub's anchor. Could do with a retro/ rename, any takers?

Either traverse in or go nuts and cut loose at the start. Long, consistent and absorbing at the grade. Named after some particularly memorable sandwiches. Stick clip advised for first bolt.

Gently bold but who doesn't like some cinnamon spice? Line of RBs right of The Cubans. Start on the blunt arête and meet up with the right trending ramp. Mind the shallow ledges on the way to the well protected crux and the victory jugs.

A singular brain cell. Classic R facing dihedral. Starts from the ledge and goes direct up brilliant finger and hand jams, now meticulously scrubbed for your consumption! Worth bringing in a single rack of cams and some wires for. Belay/ lower from Beefeater anchor or top rope it after.

First bolted line left of the boulder. Steep start to bulges to slab. Rings at belay.

Middle ring bolted line. Steep start past the chin to bulges. Rings at belay.

Pocketed face on average sandy rock that stays dry in rain to the right of ‘The Jump Line’. Hard extension through the bulges is an open project waiting for a strong climber.

Nice finger jamming with good pro. Follow the small crack left of the bolted route. Rap off TFG anchor.

And the Lord said thou shalt install only the finest grade of steel. Starts off the top of the block.

The black line. Can be a little wet in winter.

Starts 3m right of GAFTO. Start at orange crack between tree and small cave. Move through cracks and slightly left, up past bollard to easier ground.

Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming.

Accidently retro-bolted and written up by C.Barrett in '07. 5m right of 'Homebrew', good moves up orange wall. Up through double pock hole past FH to sidepulls, and straight up above horizontal break.

1. 15m Start 1m left of Venus. Head diagonally left up the wall to a stance on the left arete that is level with the huge ceiling on the left, and belay as for Elle’s Belles.

2. 45m (Crux) Head up the line above to an overhang past the bulge. Traverse right under this, then go back diagonally left above it to a position 3m below the summit ceiling and join Elle’s Belles at the top.

Start as for AUNT GLAD. Up to the bushy ledge then follow the L hand flake on the R wall for AUNT GLAD to finish through the overhang. Steven Barnett, Anthony Wregg, Bruce McMurdo 18/05/91

10m right of Parlour Game there in an undercut arete. Climb the thin crack 5m left of this arete, climbing up to a horizontal break at 5m. Head right to the arete then go up this and the steep head-wall above.

Starts left of Piss n' Wind. Up easy ground to steepening orange face, following discontinuous cracks and breaks to small V-corner. Up grey rock above, trending right at 35m to finish as for Piss n' Wind.

Starts around 50m right of Dead or Olive, at the buttress of good rock topped by a roof on its left-hand edge. Climb easy ground to orange at 15m, climbing it at left end. Head up orange streak, then onto grey slab above, exiting grey roof at top at right-hand end.

R-leading diagonal for 2m. Delicately up and follow L line.

Start: On the steep, yellow buttress most prominent from the road, just behind (south of) Pangaea Wall. Start 4m L of undercut arete.

Balance R from vegetated chimney for 2m, then up through bulge and up groove.

Start: On a compact, bulging buttress below and R of the highest bluff of 'Pangaea Walls'. Start at distinctive pink-stained rock on L, below tiny roof.

A bit of a novelty.

Sustained face climbing.

Start: Start up the bulging wall 2m L of 'Future Legend'.

Pretty dodgy.

Best easy route at this crag. Fun climbing and surprisingly cool holds. Starts about 5m R of UF, steep start on great holds then up the face looking for the cool pockets.

Unobtrusive but quite pleasant. Crack 10m R of 'Perceived Freedom'. Approach from the R and walk L to end of ledge. Up with a tricky start and thin midsection.

Surprisingly good climbing for this section of the wall. 5m R of Explorer’s Groove, the second seam R of EG. Up to and up seam/crack to ledge, slightly L and up head wall via FH to ledge. DBB and abseil.

Steeper than it looks. Add some slings to a rack of small-medium wires and medium cams.

Start: Start a few metres L of Let X=X.

Balancy face-climbing.

Start: Start at the back of the pinnacle, just R of L arete.

Up the wall. A few meters up there is a sickle shaped crack/pod that takes a bomber #7 rock. Up on natural gear. Take care with the juggy rock near the top, as some of it is a little fragile. Rap from the big penis-shaped bollard.

Start: Start on the left wall of the gully, a few metres right of the start of the distinctive horizontal break.

Contrived but enjoyable.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Trident' (i.e. do pitch 1 of 'Trident' first).

An old classic with a tough crux. Often done in 1 pitch.

Start: Start beneath the major but strangely scooped line up the prominent sheer orange/grey wall at the foot, and to the left, of the descent gully. This is at the L edge of the jumble of flakes and blocks.

1. 15m (17) Move up an easy rib R of the corner and traverse L across a gargoyle into the corner (the direct variants have all been bouldered). Up corner, an old peg or two, with hard moves to gain the cave.

2. 22m (14) Continue up the chimney to a ledge on the L. Continue in the line or move out L to the arete. The rap anchor (added early '07) is about 0.5m down in the crack itself.

Not a popular concept. Takes the corner out L of the main 'Simpleton' corner with a loose crux.

Start: There is a chimney/gully 10m R of Molar Buttress; start 1m R of this gully.

1. 15m (-) Up the line in the short wall to a bushy ledge.

2. 30m (17) (crux) Take the corner at the L end of the ledge until it fades out. Traverse L to a bushy cave.

3. 35m (-) L to the arete. Up just L of arete with an exciting swing over a bulge.

Clean slab/wall climbing all the way up to the chains on TSIC. Two BRs (hangers required!) and an assortment of cams and trad gear. Slightly contrived at the start, the hard moves past the first bolt can be avoided by easier climbing to the left, but delightful above. The second bolt is hidden until you get right to it!

Start: Five or six metres left of This Structure is closed (very contrived). Alt start - might be better starting immediately L of SIC, then trending up L towards the bolt and onwards. Won't be as contrived this way, and gear will run straighter.

A boulder problem that might ease when the R-hand crack is dry.

Start: Start beneath the twin cracks of Watchtower Castle's first pitch.

Climb direct up the orange-brown streak in the steep wall between 'Sluice' and 'Threadneedle'.

Start: Scramble up to the top of the 'Threadneedle' ramp.

An elegant climb up the line delimiting the R side of the slabs.

Start: Start as for 'Sluice'.

1. 35m (17) As for 'Sluice', the L-leaning groove to big slot with hard move at 25m. Traverse R to terrace.

2. 30m (17) An attractive, diagonal corner rises from the terrace. Either climb the wall L of the corner to start or take the corner all the way to the next terrace.

3. 10m (-) Up L to abseil anchors.

A huge block sits on the terrace R of the overhanging wall. Short, thin crack next to the block up grey wall. Finish up discontinuous cracks.

Start 8m R of 'Inkido Roof' at the first easier line after all the steepness.

1. 25m (17) The crack.

2. 15m (-) The chimney, then step L to the jugs. The quickest walk-down is the gully between Lower 'Taipan' and 'Reprisal Wall'. Find this by bashing 50m back to 'Afterglow Wall', then go 80m R until you're underneath 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering area. Turn R away from the rock and after 30m you're at the top of the gully.

Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help).

Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'.

Up layback and onto slab. Climb thin crack splitting wall above just right of wide crack. After reaching big break at 15m keep climbing upwards to belay on large ledge.

Start: Start 10m right of 'Pentridge Smack Delivery' at short layback corner crack.

Originally finished into 'Overkill' but this way keeps it independent.

Start: Start 3m R of O, just L of the wide crack.

Ridiculously popular.

Start: Start at the thin crack just R of 'Tootsie'.

Great first half then a silly low angled slab.

Start: Start 5m L of HH.

Light line in the middle of the wall behind Bird Wall proper and faintly initialed "F". Up double sided flake to groove and crack above. First recorded ascent: Bill Andrews, Allan Hope Jan 1987

For a relative unknown Stan Manley sure did nab a bunch of good lines, years before anyone else showed up here.

Start: Start at the left crack.

1. 30m (17) Hard start, then crack to ledge.

2. 20m (-) Upwards to large ledge and continue through the top overhang.

Up the corner of ZM, then the line 1.5m L through the roof.

Start: Start as for ZM.

Fun well protected climbing that's easier than it looks. Start is the back L corner of the cave on the Western side (facing The Wall of Fools). Traverse the break out L to the arête past a few medium to large size cams). R and up the face and over the small rooflet to a lower off past 4FHs.

Start as for Cradle Snatcher. Take the steep right leading crack almost to the arête. Step back left and and up seams near the arête.

Face 2m right of Clan of the Pooh Bear. Go up the middle, finishing direct.

Up to flake 1 right of Grabbin' Runners then up and right.

Easy sport arete. The first half was originally climbed on trad (and called No Fixed Gear) and was later accidentally retrobolted and renamed 'Amnesia'.

Start: You can't miss this overbolted slabby arete just right of 'Freedom Fighter'.

Excellent fun climbing despite its daunting appearance.

Start: Up the dog leg crack left of 'A Long Way From Verona'. Continue straight up over a bulge then traverse up right 4m until a vertical weakness-come-crack leads to the top.

Sit starts just right of 'Sesame Superhighway' and climbs the series of jugs to a high finish. Descend via the righthand side.

Uninspiring chossy ramble which seems to share the start 10m with Mods? What Mods?

Start: Start from the boulder.

1. 25m (17) Up the slabby wall to head left through the break in the bulge (poor rock) to belay on a ledge.

2. 15m (17) Up left to, and then up, the final short headwall.

A mountaineering romp up a major feature.

Start: Squeezed in between 'Sunset Boulevard' and 'Pig Sticker'.

1. 15m (17 M0) Up slab just right of 'Pig Sticker' for 8m to base of wide left facing flake corner. Ignore this and step 2m right to steep left facing hand crack in corner. Up this for 7m to ledge and belay.

2. 40m (10 M0) Just like Peroxide Blonde but at one-tenth of the grade. Step around right up jugs to huge slabby arête. Up this arête staying as close to the left edge as possible for maximum exposure. The finish steepens slightly for full value. Walk off down via 'Echoes' Block.

Old school off-width.

Start: Starts 8m left of 'Civilian Casualties' at entrance of tourist tunnel.

One of the best jam cracks in the Stapylton area. A good old-fashioned line and the first climbed on the 'Hollow Mountain' side of Stapylton. It was written up by two other groups (including Noddy) before the real first ascent was discovered.

Start: Starts 15m left of 'Golden Showers' at landmark right facing corner crack.

The 'obvious' line that cuts diagonally across the wall right of 'Filtons Folly' via a 'blowhole'.

Start: Start 4m right of 'Filtons Folly' at small corner crack.

Confusing location! This is the original access description. Climb was not located by editor.

Start: Take the walking track to the top of the 'Sandinista' cliff. Walk about 100m left to another terrace directly above where the track starts to climb through the 'Sandinista' cliff. Start just left of of a left leading diagonal, which has an 'antler' at the top

The easy way to the Upper Cut Lunch Wall's fabulous sport routes. In reality its a four move boulder problem off the deck then grade 5 climbing from then on. Starts on small rock about 10m left of the Salad Abuse arête.

A bouldery start, eases to good holds.

The prominent arete left of the 'Bad Moon Rising' corner with some amazing in-cut jugs. Climb the Bad Moon Rising corner for 5m, moving left onto the pedestal. Continue up the overhung face moving left around the arête, and follow the righthand crack to the top.

Slabby wall climb that is mostly trad. The first features left of the central blank section of the wall are two parallel orange overlaps. Climb the overlaps with pro on the left, to the crux bulge (BR). Follow the holds and gear up the slab above, staying just left of a small water groove. Takes wires, small-med cams and a bolt plate.

Start about 1m right of left edge of the yellow wall. Go straight the line of least resistance. Top roped FA.

Start 4m L of Continuar Sonriendo. Off boulder and straight up face, finishing L of the thin shallow crack.

Nothing to write home about, but nice trad / inconsistent crack line just L of roof/cave. Bolts on Pulled Out to start.

Good, but slightly contrived climbing on an independent grey buttress below and N of the Eastern Walls. Up short diagonal crack, then up the nice grey wall, keeping to the L for the best climbing. At the top is a nice surprise mini 2nd pitch (and topping out is a better way to descend).

Not positively located. Possibly 'The Joker' is a repeat of this route. This is not a major attraction. Start at the white outcrop of rock at the base of the cliff half way along. Up the weakness veering right near top to easier ground.