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Beschreibung

The slim buttress in the middle of the valley is a remarkable piece of rock. Although appearing slightly scrappy, it offers a large number of good quality trad routes, mostly in the easier grades. What's more, the easy access to the top makes most routes easy to toprope, and the opposed orientation of 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' means that you can choose whether to climb in the sun or the shade at any time of day. These factors, combined with the proximity to the carpark, have made 'Back Wall' and 'Main Wall' by far the most popular crag in the entire 'Grampians'.

© (willmonks)

Einschränk. übernommen von Summerday Valley

While the whole of SDV is thought of as a LTO-only area, in reality LTO's are still only allowed to use small sections of wall: Back Wall, L side of Wall of Fools and Barc cliff (which is listed under Hollow Mt).

While there's at least 2 areas of Cultural Heritage (one minor quarrying site, and rock scatters that were discovered after the 2014 Bushfires); it is understood that SDV is a good example of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Traditional Owners feel that the place is special to them, and they do not want climbers there (except Tour Operators are ok, as they have signed a "Permit to Harm" document).

©

Zustieg

Back Wall is the SW face of 'Central Buttress', and faces the 'Wall of Fools'. With the way the track comes in these days you reach 'Back Wall' before 'Main Wall' so the names are a little confusing! It is shady until early afternoon, making it good for summer mornings and winter afternoons.

To gain the top of the crag (or to descend) you need to do a fairly easy scramble at either end, but again, don't trust the snappable jugs.

© (willmonks)

Ethik übernommen von Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route

Good, but bears no similarity to the 'Buffalo' megaclassic!

Start: Start 2-3m R of OB.

  1. 12m (10) The line to the ledge.

  2. 12m (10) Continue up the line with some brittle rock.

Erstbegehung: Bill Andrews & Alan Hope, 1984

Nice and long for these parts.

Start: Initialled corner a few m R of 'Cypress'.

  1. 12m (9) Up corner to the ledge. The variant moves R at the flake then up the wall (15).

  2. 12m (9) The crack on the L.

Erstbegehung: Stan Manley (original p1) Bill Andrews (p2 1/12/84 & p1 variant 15/12/84), 1979

Up initial corner of Odlin Baggins but bust right onto the flake at 5m (ish) and head directly up from there.

The front of the buttress, tricky pro.

Start: Start just R of 'Cypress'.

Erstbegehung: Bill Andrews & solo, 1985

Up the crack, with a ledge and small pine at half height. A poorly protected alternative finish is further to the R, the arete L of 'Odlid Baggins'.

Start: Start beneath the deep wide crack.

Erstbegehung: Stan Manley, 1979

Sure Punks was influential, but these route names are getting ridiculous!

Start: Start just R of DPitMotR and just L of 'Cypress'.

Erstbegehung: John Fisher & Iain Sedgman, 1985

Up the middle of the face.

Start: Start just R of PD.

Erstbegehung: Iain Sedgman, John Fisher & Bill Andrews, 1985

Up the crack on the arete.

Start: Start at the arete R of GitP.

Erstbegehung: John Fisher & Iain Sedgman, 1985

Up the face 1.5 L of the arete.

Start: STart a few m R of EMP, 1.5m L of the arete.

Erstbegehung: Bill Andrews & solo, 1985

Up the wide crack to halfway then up the juggy R arete to the top.

Start: Start at the wide crack just R of 666.

Erstbegehung: Heather Phillips +1, 1985

Originally finished into 'Overkill' but this way keeps it independent.

Start: Start 3m R of O, just L of the wide crack.

Erstbegehung: Brendan O'Leary + 2 (original) & Peter Martin (as described), 1985

Ridiculously popular.

Start: Start at the thin crack just R of 'Tootsie'.

Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983

Finish direct up the thin face above the juggy crack.

Start: Start as for 'Tootsie'.

Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1984

Quite popular.

Start: Start at the juggy crack R of BN.

Erstbegehung: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1983

The face to a slight bulge.

Start: Start between TCC and 'Tootsie'.

Erstbegehung: Andrew Corlass + 2, 1986

Keith must've been on belay for hours with this many seconds...

Start: Start a few m R of An-tics.

Erstbegehung: Keith Egerton + 7!, 1985

Thin crack with lots of good holds and bomber gear!

Erstbegehung: FRA Chris Hurstfield Norm Johnson, 1984

Easy climbing up a nice corner with lots of gear placements.

Erstbegehung: Stan Manley, 1979

Cruxy.

Start: Start between 'Regatta' and 'De Blanc'.

Erstbegehung: Iain Sedgman + 4!, 1985

A good'n.

Start: Start at the initialled R-facing corner down the left end of 'Back Wall'.

Erstbegehung: Stan Manley, 1979

Like most easy routes on 'Central Buttress' this is an excellent introductory toprope problem for beginners.

Start: Start down the L end of 'Back Wall'.

Erstbegehung: Bill Andrews & solo, 1985

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Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Autor(en): Steve Toal

Datum: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(en): Steve Toal

Datum: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(en): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Datum: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

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