Routen in Tidbinbilla area

Good thin slab climbing up the cleaned strip to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Start on top of some blocks six metres to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Up the wall and flake to the ledge. Step up and right, and clip two bolts on the way to the top.

Exciting. Originally M4, the free version follows a slightly different line. Start in 'The Pits' proper, below the obvious lines about five metres right of 'Parole'. Subtle moves at half height lead to layaways up the left-hand line. Clip a bolt from the ledge, and up.

Start in 'The Pits' proper, right of Happy Piggyland. Up the crack, chimney past a bolt and squeeze onto the Knife Edge Boulder. Finish as for Holy Guacamole.

The left hand route on the upper tier of the Knife Edge Boulder. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

The popular slab a couple of metres right of V1 Special. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

The left hand route back onto the mainland. Start from DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder. Walk down the slab, preclip a bolt, and launch yourself onto the wall. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

The right hand route back onto the mainland. From the DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder walk down the slab and fall across the void. This is best done hands first. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

The loose chimney at the left-hand side of the roof split by an off-width.

The off-width crack that splits the roof and face overlooking the Knife Edge Boulder.

A steep slab on small edges - Start on the arete left of Heckmondwicke Twist.

Finishing in the far left corner (looking out) of this area, where you pop out from under the huge balanced boulder, is this small gem of a climb, requiring jamming and some constricted slab moves.

One of the harder face climbs around, once upon a time. Start 15 metres right of and below 'Heckmondwike Twist' at the boulder with a dyke and flake. Up the thin and technical wall with four bolts to a tree belay.

The thin corner and arete right of 'French Connections' with a bolt.

The chimney with the crack up the left wall just right of French Connection - FA was done solo

Chimney past bolts on Jihad, then up slab with wires (see ACT Granite p206).

The slabby arete two boulders right of French Connections. "Fantastically thin layaways and edges" off the block past three bolts.

Start 10m left of Juveniles. Traverse left then up the unprotected slab. Belay on gear as for Juveniles P1. Originally soloed by man and beast. Not a good lead for beginners.

Start from the anchors on top of the No Glove Boulder. Walk down the steepish slab towards the Juvenile Wall. Step across the gap and clip the first bolt. Pad up the slab left of Juveniles. Belay on gear.

A popular 2 pitch slab. Start on the right hand side of the gully 25m downhill from French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist. A large burnt fallen log is a good reference point and a good seat for your belayer.

1. 15m (15, crux). Hard start up the flakey black slab, then more easily past 2 bolts. Gear belay.

2. 15m (14). Step onto the block and up the golden headwall (3 bolts). DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder.

28m rap from Fouled Up Turkey anchors back to the base.

Start 2m right of Juveniles. The unprotected arete into crack.

Start just right of a large tree about 10m right of the start of Juveniles. Climb the slab trending left. Continue up Juveniles P2 to the top of the Knife Edge Boulder, or trad belay as for Juveniles P1. The first bolt is quite high and there are suspect flakes down low.

Entire route now hidden under fallen tree branches after the fires.

The arête at the left hand (East) end of the black wall - behind you as you start Juvenilles and Geriatrics. Scramble down into a hollow between the route and the No Glove No Love boulder to belay (two bolts).

Bridge up the gully until you can reach around and clip the first bolt on the arete. Step onto the arete and up past five more bolts to lower-offs.

Thin moves up the wall about 10 metres right of 'Aubergine Dream'. Start at the top of 'Blagdon' P1, 'Oddball' etc where the boulder leans against the black wall. Five bolts, with the crux after the second.

The thin sustained wall between 'Le Muir Noir' and 'Antipodean Atrocities'. Start as for 'Le Muir Noir' but head right.

Thin, balancy and sustained climbing. Start as for 'McCoy's Arete'; clip the first bolt on this and climb down to join the dyke. Up this to the top with four bolts and a bolt belay.

Interesting climbing, a good position and an abundance of metal make this route worthwhile. Scramble to the top of the 'Changes' boulder and find a bolt belay. After a bouldery start, climb the arete to the top, clipping four bolts on the way.

And fast drilling. Start 10 metres right of 'McCoy's Arete'. Use a dead branch to get to the first bolt. Crank up on drilled finger pockets to a big flake, then cruise up to the top past two more bolts.

This is the flake on a boulder 10 metres uphill and to the right of 'McCoy's Arete', about level with 'Fast Living'. The overhung start has a technical and strenuous sequence. Originally there was a fixed wire, however this has been stolen. Bolt belay at the top.

Quality well protected slabbing.

Traditionally the access to this climb was down the steep gulley past Juveniles and JAM. However it is easier to scramble up the back of the boulder past a bolt and rap in (DBB). This scramble starts just behind you as you look at the start of Juveniles. As you rap, tension left and clip into the left most line of 3 bolts. A 60m rope is preferable for this exercise. Best to belay off a sling or two at the start.

The climb goes straight up past three bolts and then gradually drifts right. There is optional wires or micro cams near the start.

The line 8m down and right of No Glove. Rap in similar style as No Glove (60m rope required). Start on the low angled mossy slab. Your belayer will be standing on the slab, leaning against the obvious boulder. Climb the slab past 2 bolts. Cruxey before and after the 1st bolt (8m). Treat the flakes with respect.

Very run-out slabbing ... Should be at Booroomba.

Rap in as for On the Beach (60m rope just reaches). Start underneath the blunt arete (about 6m down and right from OTB). Up the slab to join OTB at the second bolt.

Beautiful slab climbing on good rock. Best access is to scramble up the back of the boulder and rap in (refer NGNL, OTB etc). Extend the anchor with a long sling and a 60m rope will just reach. You can walk in but you will be wallowing in scrub.

Start 5m right of OTBDS, directly below the 1st bolt. Legend has it more than one climber as got stuck on the initial overlap and has required assistance from above, Pre or stick clip if you're not solid at the grade.

Start on top of the block between "When Only The Best Will Do" and "Blagdon". Straight up the slab and dyke past seven bolts to anchor.

Ascends 3 boulders to the top of the Knife Edge.

1. 30m (15) The obvious corner/chimney just right of WOTBWD. DBB. Rap down to start of Juveniles.

2. 15m (13) Start 2m right of Juveniles. The arete into crack.

3. 14m (15) The airy groove between the top pitch of Juveniles and Fouled up Turkey. Unprotected.

Climb the chimney of 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' for five metres to an obvious break on the right wall. Move right onto the slab and traverse right at the weakness to the right arete. Up the arete ('No Easy Street') to finish.

An attempt to create more easy slabs turned into a misguided use of bolts and effort by people who should know better.

Start down and right of 'Rite of Passage', as for 'No Easy Street'. Step onto the boulder and follow the easiest path up and left past bolts until you're on the horizontal weakness of 'Rite of Passage'. Traverse right to gain the crack. Follow the crack and dyke up and left, then easy slabbing to the top.

Technically easy, but poor protection and poor rock make this an interesting excursion. Start 10 metres down and right from 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist'. Climb the slab and arete, then up the ramp to a #2 RP placement; continue up the arete to the top.

Up 'Oddball' for two metres, then left to a bolt. Up the brushed wall passing another bolt on the way to the arete. Finish easily as for 'Oddball'.

Start below a dyke on the western side of the 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' boulder, about 50 metres around to the right from that climb. Thin climbing to a bolt and up the dyke above past one more bolt (clip with wires). Walk up the arete ('No Easy Street') to belay.

Steep slab climbing. Start, again, as for 'Oddball' to the bolt, then move rightwards along the cleaned streak past three more bolts (the bolts are overdriven - clip with small wires).

Start on the boulder uphill and right of 'Oddball'. Up the off-width and slabby arete. Step left and climb the orange corner and wall above.

The short thin crack on a boulder 30 metres below 'My Generation'. Up the awkward thin crack to some hard slabby moves onto a ledge. Move right and up the easy hand crack.

Start on a boulder 50 metres below 'My Generation'. Climb up the dirty crack and slab without using the dead tree.

The brushed slab with two bolts four metres left of 'Return of the Marzipan Kid'. Take wires.

One of the first climbs at Gibraltar Peak. Pitch 1. 16m. Climb blocks and cracks to the ledge. Continue up to the large ledge below the chimney. Pitch 2. 24m. Climb over boulders then up the chimney. Finish on large rock platform.

Onsite lead by Jones on first ascent was very scary as protection is almost non-existent. Curtis was so freaked that Jones would crater that he soloed up the back of the chimney and tried to act as a human running belay! I'm not surprised that it seems standard to toprope it these days

The off-width right of Ape. See p 196 of ACT Granite.

Start as for the second pitch of 'Ape'. Climb up 'Ape' for about five metres then reluctantly step left of the chimney and onto the face. Up past three bolts.

As for 'Ape Escape', but step delicately right onto the face and up. Climb the wall with four bolts, trending right onto the arete near the top.

Inspected by abseil before the bolt plague, thus seldom if ever repeated. Start 20 metres around right from 'Ape'. Climb the left-hand, flake-formed crack to the top, then traverse right for 10 metres to the blunt nose of the arete. Continue up and right (crux) to a ledge.

The obvious leftwards diagonal with a 'cave' at two thirds height.

1. 17 metres - Up the line to the cave.

2. 13 metres - Through the cave and exit up the V-crack to the top.

It is amazing what lengths some people will go to, to do new routes! Find a dead branch and lean it against the face about eight metres right of 'Swinging Seat'. Swarm up the branch with a hard move at the top to reach the ledge. Mantle onto the ledge after clipping the bolt, then climb the crack and slab past one more bolt.

Ascends a series of flake chimneys. Start at a chimney in the back of a small cave to the right of 'Monkey Business'. Done in three pitches.

The low-angled crack that might pass as a climb, with a few gear placements under the leaves. Belay with care. To descend either traverse the ridgeline to rap station on The Seventh Hedgehog, or down climb.

Might not exist any more. A large column has fallen off, meaning the obvious rightwards leaning corner is now closed and blank.

The right-facing corner crack leading to a blocky finish. Chain belay.

This is on a small boulder 20 metres off the walking track. Best approach is to find the "Granites" sign on the Tidbinbilla walking track (10m uphill from the lookout platform and Mario). Walk directly uphill for 20m or so to the boulder. Climb up the left side of the flake, then up the crack to the top.

This climb is right next to the Tidbinbilla walking track, about 20 metres uphill from the lookout platform. There's a bush growing out of the crack at two thirds height. Layback up the flake then follow the crack, which widens at the top (take a large cam).

This is on the back side of the boulder beside the walking track, 150m downhill from the lookout and opposite the handrail(!?). Corner crack to crumbly jugs at bulge.

The easiest crack on the uphill side of the boulder. Bolt belay at the top.

To the right of 'Low Hydrogen'. Climb the easy crack to the ledge, then up the thin crack to the top.

Thin diagonal crack with narrow ramp using finger locks and lay-aways to ledge. Finish up weakness to triple bolt belay as for Faint Hearted or alternatively hand crack finish to Broken Window. Small cams helpful to protect crack to ledge.

The overhanging hand to fist crack, broken by a ledge, on the downhill side of the boulder. Flaky rock - take care.

The hand crack on an isolated boulder 20m right (looking uphill) of the previous climbs, with a 'knucklebuster' start.

This obscure 'gem' can be found on the way, 20 metres to the left of the road, just before the gate. It is a short curving hand crack on a boulder.

Short hand crack on the southernmost boulder in the main group, visible to the north from the road.

Fist crack and flake on the southeast side of the large boulder to the north of No Reservations. Climbed in a blizzard. All routes on this boulder are served by a single-bolt belay.

The layback flake five metres right of Snow Storm.

Thin crack five metres right of Snow Flake. Rightwards up to a flake and finish up the slab on the right.

The short corner on the back (north side) of the boulder. Up to a block, then easily up the mossy slab to the top.

On an isolated boulder down (northwest) from Small Pox. Steeply up to first bolt (crux) then follow the groove past another bolt to a single-bolt rap station. Bolted by persons unknown. Bolts are carrots, are looking a little rusty as of 2021, and there is quite a bit of exfoliation. Another mystery carrot is visible high and left of this route.

On the southern side of the road. Climb the easy crack and gully.

Excellent committing climbing. The shallow crack facing the track. Pre-placing a piece or two on rap would make the start saner. Phil called it 'The Jism' on aid; John shocked us all when it was freed.

A funky start and fun finish sandwich a doddling middle. The crack on the far side of the boulder. Up the rib and crack to the leftward diagonal break. Easily up cracks to a peg. Clip a bolt and up the arete to top.

The crack-cum-off-width right of 'Rangehen', finishing at the pillar near its piton.

Miniscule. The flake-formed crack on the boulder five metres left of 'Rangehen'.

A short but sweet hand-crack on a boulder 5m left of 'T.V. Glotzen'.

On the north side of the main outcrop. The rightwards trending crack which is undercut at the base and lays away left at the top. Camalots to #4 will make you happy if you're not a great fan of slinging chockstones. For the record, the arete right of this climb, with low chipped holds and one bolt is said to be a very old, abandoned Law-Smith project.

The arete between 'Sentry Duty' and 'Flying Arkwright' with a pretty slippery crux. Originally three bolts and six holds; now six bolts and three holds.

One of the more worthwhile climbs of its height in Canberra. The crack, with a sentry box at half height, a few metres left of 'Flying Arkwright'.

As the name states. To get off, have to down-solo a chimney.

Thin finger crack, left of Sentry duty off width start. Finish up offwidth or (or down limb start)

The obvious chimney on the east side of main outcrop.

Good clean climbing, hidden in a short gully between boulders 40m to the right of the mushroom (as you look at it from the saddle). Follow the left-trending 10cm-deep V-corner to the top. Lower off.

A slabby, mossy wall on the southern side of the main group of boulders with three bolts to a triple bolt belay. Other reports say it is harder.

The bolted climb left of 'No Fat Chickens', starting in a chimney and reaching the same belay, was never claimed by the first offenders.

The off-width come squeeze chimney 5m left of NFC. Sit start from back of cave.

https://youtu.be/3k_6BLflhho

The slab with a single large home-made hanger in the chimney just south of the main boulder was unworthy of reporting by the first ascentionist, not surprisingly.

On the biggest boulder. Start just right of 'Night Fall'. Up the slab and short wall on sharp holds past two bolts. Watch out as both the holds and the bolts may have fallen off...

Starts on the large jammed boulders above the cave and ascends the slab and corner past two bolts - the first of which is quite high. A few nice balancy moves and it is all over.

A little aid jaunt onto the top of the 'mushroom cap'. BYO hangers (and possibly nuts) for the bolts.

On a small group of boulders 30 metres east (towards Corin Road) from 'Sentry Duty'. Nice jamming up the right angled corner crack on the downhill side. Lower off.

The balance problem up the slab just to the right of TN.

A waste of time. Up the slabby wall about 10 metres left of 'Blood on His Lips'.

The wavy slab just left of 'Blood on His Lips'. A high first bolt and a good candidate for a stick clip. Belay on gear and walk off.

A nice thin crack, undercut at the base. Don't worry at the wobbly starting block too much, and take RPs to protect the finish.

Up the expanding flake three metres right of 'Blood on His Lips'. A hard start, then more easily up the flakes and slab to the top.

5m right of Flex is a short bolted slab starting at a small alcove (gear belay).