Routen in Tidbinbilla area

The largest boulder has two impressive cracks in it. The wider, right hand one is Matricide. Approach the boulder from the downhill side to avoid a barricade of logs. Burly, overhung fist-corner crack with an off-width start. Takes blue and grey cams most of the way. Gear belay on top, then scramble off the back.

The first crack you'll see when approaching from the downhill side. The best line at Pierce's Creek, classy climbing. The first 6m is easy but involves a pair of huge hollow flakes with questionable pro (be gentle). The business is the thin hand crack above on sound rock. Take plenty of red cams, and a few other assorted things. Blue and grey cams are best for the belay, but other options are available.

Textbook handcrack. 180 degrees around the boulder from Tarred and Feathered.

The crack flake 10m right of Split definitive.

100mt uphill from the Matricide boulder - a split boulder with nice jams

On the back side of the Stone Age boulder.

From the fire trail junction below matricide, proceed south around the right hand corner for around 100m to where you see a closed fire trail. Walk up this for 40m then 10m to your left is the back of the thin ‘n’ crispy boulder. Great wires and cams, with cams for the belay and a careful scramble off the back.

Starts in the overhang with several rising cracks on the left. A bouldery move to gain the main face, then easier ground but spaced protection to the top.

The obvious chimney facing the road.

Finger crack at back of chimney. The easiest way on and off Scone Rock.

The top rope slab left of Baker's Dozen.

On the right-hand boulder is this climb, the left leaning hand crack with a wide finish. Previously world famous as the name of the ACT's Pritkin Climbing Rag. The hand crack with the wide finish.

Drop the rope, grab a pad and start it from a sit.

The thin, right leaning finger crack on the boulder on the left of GOMS. Originally 23 but easier since the demise of a large flake has opened up the crack.

Offwidth on short wall left of GTCISP.

The flake crack in the eastern gully below bakers dozen

Soft and Flakey, the flared crack faceing the road.

The offwidth crack

Great variety - Up slab to finger locks and jugs, before an offwidth finish

Up the left curving crack. V0, maybe 15? Onsite solo FA

Around to the right of BK1. Layback or offwidth start and then up. Walk off. V0 / maybe 14? Onsite solo FA

Up the corner on the left side

start just right of the arete, follow the groove then continue up the arete

Crack and corner on the right of the main face

Start at the obvious corner on the left, capped by a roof.

1. 20 metres - Crux. Up the corner.

2. 30 metres - Walk right then up the crack. Hand traverse right then layback up to the top.

Some of the roof blocks are suspect. Continue up the corner and exit under the roof, finishing straight up.

Named after a comment by a local 'hardman' of yesteryear. Takes the central line about three metres right of Never Get Famous. The first pitch has some good moves.

1. 15 metres (23) - Thin and technical wall climbing past two bolts.

2. 20 metres (19M1) - Continue up the weakness and then aid the thin wall through the roof. Continue up of traverse off.

Dirty. Start up right about eight metres from Discount For Heroes.

1. 20 metres (18) Climb the short crack then up left past a flake.

2. 25 metres (21) Up the crack (as for Never Get Famous) and through the roof.

On an isolated boulder about 100 metres downstream from Watts' Wall is an orange wall split by a finger crack. Up easily to start, through the roof and straight up the crack to the top. Several points of aid.

The corner crack - 3m right of Painting a dream

The short practice crack

Start with both hands on the undercling. Pull onto wall then throw for the lip.

The arete on the right hand side. Start with right hand on the side pull around the corner.

Left side of the slab.

The flake. Be gentle.

Thin hard start, then eases as the crack widens. Should be freed soon enough.

High stand start at the far right of the boulder. Traverse your way around the obvious line and up the side rails for a top out.

still projecting this one. Could be a hard v8?

Stand start on the side pull of the left of the boulder. Slap a sloper and try to stand up to top out

Along the Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve road are many small and some larger granite boulders. This climb is on the obvious "coffe bean" boulder 400m behind the reserve vistors centre. It is the wide crack clearly visible on the main face.

Another fine jam crack about three metres right of Pure Poison.

About 500 metres past the Visitor's Centre, a finger crack on the left has been climbed.

To get to this and the following lines, follow the road into the reserve and take the first turn right to a picnic area. Boulders can be seen from the carpark.

The main line under the roof. Climb the slab past a bolt to the roof, undercling left and up a crack to finish.

The crack about 10 metres right of Unnatural Acts starting (crux) next to a tree. Up the crack and straight on up the fang above.

There is a boulder in the scrub 30 metres directly downhill from the main cluster of boulders on Turkey Hill. At the righthand end on the river side is a curving hand crack.

The cracks further left have been soloed.

Just enough holds for an ascent. Hard work getting off the ground, a big move to the next incut, then you're on the slab and away.

Technical and gut-busting. Grade is a guess. Some seriously strenuous layback moves.

Left side of the slab. Delicate!

Start in the vague scoop and grovel your way to a desperate mantle. Not great.

Sit start at the spike (same start as Vendetta). Straight up via the corner/groove. Quite messy after it's rained.

Sit start at Tally Ho, then follow the break rightwards to the rounded arête, then mantle/rock over to the top. Progressively crimpier with thinner feet. Part of the crux footer has broken off, now a bit harder (Sept 2023). Chris Beers

Start for Vendetta, then drop down into the underclings, make some hard moves through underclings and slopers finishing out the top of the boulder (as for Vendetta or the Joker).

CMCC

As per Contempt, but topout for Tally Ho.

Sit start on the far left side of the underclings (just right of the start to Tally Ho), then straight up, topping out right of where Tally Ho tops out.

Stand start at the big underclings, make a big move into the horizontal break and then traverse left to finish as for Tally Ho.

Stand start on the big underclings and head to the crimpy rail for Vendetta and top out as for Vendetta.

A Canberra classic - the proud line diagonally up the front of the boulder as you approach on the walk in. Good positive holds, but still hard work! Note: this is a squat start - you start on the first set of good holds.

CMCC

Per ex-Canberran Duncan Brown - the full sit to the Joker line. Tough for the grade, possibly V8.

Start up The Joker, then reverse Vendetta, and finish up Tally Ho.

Not as contrived as it sounds - actually a pretty nice line. The Vendetta rail is harder in this direction.

Gets V9 in the guidebook, but might be a bit soft.

The full link-up of the boulder. Stopping All Stations with the sit start.

Sit start the Joker, climb this, then reverse Vendetta and finish up the fingery mantle of Contempt. Sustained and consistently hard.

Sit start the Joker and then when the diagonal crack runs out make hard moves to reverse Cerebro finishing up Tally Ho.

CMCC

Start for the Joker, then head straight up where the rock splits into two cracks. Long dyno to the big slope, match then mantel up.

Nice warmup problem upslope and behind Glitz Rock

Right hand variant to Persian Rug (#6 in CCA guide).

Sit start left of persian rug on the undercling and up the "arete". Eliminate - left side rail is out.

Sit start problem through obvious basalt or similar intrusion on back of boulder and right of prow.

Stand variant to intrusion. Very height-dependent.

Sit start and then go diagonally left up the seam. Falling at the end would be bad.

Standing start to Spruce Moose - slap up the boulder. Burly. CMCC

Sit start down on the left arete then slap out to the right side of the prow then continue up with big compression moves up the prow.

Up and left crimping under roof then up and over.

Long throw to crimp.

The slab.

Grunt your way up the slab on the left side right in the trees. If you can be bothered. You might get a real surprise if you fall.

Traverse all the way along the slab from the right hand side of the rock as you come uphill. Hope you've got good friction in your hands!

Left of the start to Szady Slap, take a run at the slab, jump, get your feet set and reach for glory. Invigorating cooldown.

Sit start from left of slab then traverse right and up the slab on crimps.

Sit-start traverse the boulder left to right.

Sit-start the arete.

Sit-start and up to the left or the right. Rock on the left of the track just before heart block

Traverse left to right then up, finishing as for 22, the righthandmost climb. Either gaston through the crux or execute a hard cross-through.

start left of rocks on undercling. continue up underclings to the break and straight up 'check your head'

classic Highball.

Sit start on the crack and stay in crack then finish up and right. V5

Up onto a good flat edge with crappy footers, get yourself set, dyno out left then up.

The crack.

Stand start at flake, matching hands above. Layback from there out to the edge of the slope, cut feet, find the slot and up.

Start as for Vitruvian, layback out right, cut feet and dangle in thin air, then turn and heel hook up in the slot just before the end of the jutting prow. V4 moves up to here... Now execute a gut-wrenching mantle with your left foot dangling in the air. Positive holds. Pretty damn contrived. On reflection, it's not worth stars, but it's fun to try and mantel over the shit foot-slot. The full line is the real prize. Don't touch the ground, obviously!

Traverse from the start of Vitruvian right around the boulder, heel hooking and groaning all the way. Pretty much a huge campus problem really.