Routen als sport in Northern Rivers

5m right of Abandonment Issues. Follow left leaning line of 5 FH’s past flake and pockets. Shared belay with Abandonment Issues.

Start 3m to the R of original. 2 FH's then up and L into Abandonment Issues.

Steep start then nice slabby continuation.

Start 5m left of AI. Climb up past approx 6 FHs to DBB.

Start 15m left of Pink Bongo Bunny. Bouldery start to first FH. Continue up wall on easier holds for 3 FH's to dished area below headwall. Take a deep breath and blast up headwall for another 3 FH's to DBB. Some broken holds, might be a grade or two harder

3m L of Amped Up is a line of 8 FH's. Thin holds through to 2nd FH. Then easier moves to base of headwall. Crimp your way over double bulge while keeping an eye out for the crucial jugs.

Great, long warm up. Climb through the crux in a corner at just above half height then easy climbing to anchor with fixed biners. Can be done with a 60m rope.

Climb ramp on R of notch to FH on bulge at 4m. Up beside white streak past 3 FH to stance L of "Cat in Nine" corner. Step up L on short vertical wall with ace buckets (FH) to long slab (FH). Chain belay on headwall shared with "Live Contact".

Start on the right of the alcove and follow 3 hangers to steep wall (crux). 4 more hangers lead to chain belay.

Directly up slab L of notch past 4 FHs. Optional gear in pockets, too.

4m right of "Don't Trust the Bunny". Up past the bunny holes to 1st FH. Straight up crimping your way past a further 6 FHs to chains.

6m R of Yellow Brick Road. Up R of the rock orchards, through two steep sections on good holds. Thin, sustained climbing to clip 4 then easier to the top. 7 FHs to chains.

14m L of notch. Generic, but clean slab climbing past 3 black FHs to the base of bulge, which sports the final 2 FHs. This overhung section hosts a vital two-finger pocket and makes for quite a stunning conclusion. Finish at rap station at small stance. Watch out for ants in the pockets.

R of Ginsu. Climbs the steep blank wall with the "snail trail" and 5 or 6 FHs, using very few very small crimps. Thin is the word.

2016: The 'snail trail' mark no longer exists - but you can't miss the route. Blankest, meanest bit of cliff that has bolts on it.

6m L of Yellow Brick Road beneath a hard, smooth wall. 2 Bolt runners in the first third (hard to see). Then four FHs to a chain belay.

2m L of Ginsu. Climbs the steeper section of the wall following 6 or 7 camouflaged FHs and a few crimps.

Sustained thin moves between 1st & 4th hangers give way to easier ground. Lay off the huge bollard to 5th hanger. Easy to chains. Solid 17.

1m R of flake. Up through pockets (optional gear) to slab and the first of 5 black FHs. Onto steep section with big holds (FH). Mount wall and pockety moves to reachy FH. Run it out a little to the security of a massive bucket below the 4th FH. Over bulge to last FH and a tricky mantle to hit the chains. Quite run out, could do with extra bolts to make it safe?

2m L of the flake. Up on good holds (4 FHs) to lumpy arête. Nice exposure past 3 FHs to DBB. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ

4m L of flake. Up the R-leaning weakness past 3 FHs to a stance - quite run out between clips 2 & 3. Step L (FH) and up steep section (FH) to easy climbing (FH) to chains. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ.

The route is a waterfall after rain.

The following climbs are on the second face approximately 100m along the track. 5m R of small knee-high ledge (former flake). Was pretty dangerous, now rebolted and an extra bolt and anchor added. 3 FHs.

Up BRs of "Flat and Useless", then go high L to last BR on "Eff-A-Reddy". Continue L to last on ASSOSSISS, then up to belay. Could have been the original intent for FU?

Start above small knee-high ledge (former detached flake). Clip FH and launch onto wall. Over bump (FH) and follow jugs (FH) trending R. Then up to shared lower-off.

Great learner lead. Pockets 5m R of Itchy. Direct line staying R of runnel past 4 FHs to shared lower-off.

A line of 5 FH's to the R of Itchy. Thin moves to 2nd FH and continue over bulge on good holds.

Great learner lead. 1m R of the two pines are 3 pockets that look like Mickey Mouse. Up to pockets and on to next FH. Crux moves to and over the next FH lead to jugs and vertical section (FH). Over this to good chain belay on back wall of ledge.

The crux provides some interesting crimping up an arete.

The line of 5 FHs behind the pine tree. Finish at DBB.

6m left of Scratchy is a line of 5 FHs to DBB. Boulder up to 1st hanger from L and mantle onto ledge using a little muscle power. Continue up wall on good holds staying L of 3rd hanger.

3m L of Candle Power. Up short steep wall on good holds. Good warm up or for newer leaders. 3 FHs to chains.

Scramble up short wall as for NASATV to large ledge. At RH end of ledge there is a FH at chest height. Belay from here. Up face to 2 large holes passing a FH (wasps have been removed). Continue up wall passing 3 FHs to chain belay shared with LV.

Start 4m left of NR at RH end of large ledge. Can belay from 1st bolt of NR. Follow line of 5 FHs to shared chains with NR.

Scramble 6m up to large ledge and clip FH on LH end of ledge at head height. Up easily, staying L of dark stain passing 3 FHs to shared CB with "Electrolyte".

One of the most popular routes at urbenville, fine balancy slabbing up rock which has had every edge polished off by the sweaty palms and squirming feet of those who went before.

The obvious upwards continuation from Slip\'s anchors.

Start: Continue up and slightly left from Slip\\'s Anchors through break.

1. 25m (16) Up through break in roof, follow hangers across slab to anchors just short of headwall.

2. 25m (18) Follow line of weakness through headwall with some balancy moves, continue up slab to anchor.

Three pitches of pleasant climbing with an interesting crux.

Start: Start by traversing up and right from the anchors of Slip or by heading straight up from the anchor of Slope/Sonoluminescence

1. 20m (15) Follow bolts through corner/weakness (one bolt plate required) approximately 1.5 metres up and 5 metres right of Slip\'s anchor, up slab and corner for a short distance to anchor with huge mild-steel chain hardware.

2. 25m (19) Up shallow corner to obvious steep corner (many FH's). Overcome this and the tricky arête crux move onto slab to reach CB at small tree.

3. 15m (17) Clip FH from ledge and climb the slab above past numerous FH's to tree belay.

Another romp up slab past the L side of a small nose to CB at the top of Slip.

Start: Start at line of hangers a few metres right of Slip

Up R side of small nose past numerous FHs to CB at top of 'Slapp'. Has an interesting bulge at half height.

Off block and follow seam to first BR at five metres. Up slab blipping colts to CB.

More good value. About 5m R of Slither. Up slab to a tricky step R and FH. Sweet pockets will see you through the crux steepness. Continue up corner to lower-off.

This climb starts R about 3 metres. Head up crack/corner to vegetated ledge. From here step 2m R onto steeper territory. Follow FH's to a lower-off.

Instead of climbing the crack/corner of Urban Villain climb directly up the slab, passing three FH's below the crux.

Good, but a sandbag at its original grade of 13 if climbed directly. Start about 12m R of Urban Villain, in a shallow V. Climb up the V and step L onto a large ledge, the first BR is clipped from the ledge. From the ledge head up to orange overhang and lower-off. FH's and cams.

1. 40m (22) Start up Easement but move R before chains following FH's up and then L to steep wall. Crank L and up weakness in this steep headwall past numerous FH's to slab then to chain belay.

2. 20m (19) Up slab above past big flake and numerous FH's to tree belay.

A gooey little thing. This climb goes up the L of the two cracks with a hard start and fiddly placements, ending at Fuck Off Noddy 's chain belay.

Classic and quite sequency. The clean line located in the middle of the buttress, below the R slanting flake ending at a lower-off.

No easier than Noddy. Starts at R side of buttress below prominent flake. Boldly up to first FH then trend R to second FH. Up to top passing last FH, unsuccessfully trying to avoid stepping L. Chain belay.

Looks heinous!! Two FH's lead up and to the L to a rest before the crux at the third FH. Up past one BR to finish. Chain belay.

Up to scoop and BR. Onwards past another three BR's to chain belay.

Weakness just L of Penial Warts. Four BR's and chain belay. Really just a variant start to Penile Warts as it joins it at the second BR.

Didn't manage to find this one. Supposedly about 3m R of Penile Warts. Up past three BR's on difficult moves if you're the height of the first ascensionists. At top corner above third BR, step L and up to chain belay.

5m R of the warty tree. Up to first BR at the patch of white lichen. Traverse R and up to second BR. Up to FH and crux. Clip fourth BR and you're there. Chain belay.

Start as for the previous two climbs. Head to the same bolt at the hole. Step down onto tooth and up R to ledge. From ledge follow BR's to chain belay.

A direct start for Image is All. Start up slab about eight metres R of original start. Head up past two BR's then trend L to undercling and up to ledge.

Another direct start just R of I'll be Bach. This time up slab past three BR's to hole and BR.

Up the short arête clipping BR's to chain belay.

Start about 4m R of Jetsom. Head straight up slab clipping BR's to chain belay.

Tricky boulder in the middle then through roof. 8 FH's to lower off at top of cliff.

Slab (2 FH’s) to easy L traverse. Up with big moves (3 FHs) to thinky exit R. One of the least steep routes at the crag.

4m R. Cool, punchy moves past chain permadraw and a steep finish. 6 FH’s to anchor. Hard!

6m R. The cool-looking overhanging mini-corner-seam. Very bouldery and difficulty might be a bit height dependent? 6 FH’s to anchor. A grade or 2 harder now after broken holds **

8m R. 6 FH’s to anchor. Reachy, bouldery climbing on steep, bomber rock to finish on big ledge. An interesting mix of slabby and steep sections

3m R of Sherlock Hemlock. 6 FH’s to anchor. Easy scramble past first bolt to ledge and clip, then solid rock to finish. Tricky crimps on good feet to high reach past bulge at fourth bolt.

4m R. 8 FH’s to anchor. High first bolt above the big crater feature, then enjoyable varied climbing on good rock with a steep and tricky finish. Low in the grade.

Climb Extra Shot. Then bust R along the rail passing one FH to anchor of Glenn’s project. Back-jump.

2m R. 7 FH’s to anchors. Some nice bouldery pulls with crux up top.

Starts same as above but takes the right-hand bolt line. Trends up and R passing monster flake (climbing corner L of this) to roof, through this on flakes. 9 FH’s then mantle to anchor above lip.

A large traversing line. First three bolts as for Flexion (long draw on second), then layback the monster flake to stance. Clip FH on R, then edge R-wards across the blank slab for about 8m to the point the line skyrockets up through the roof (super). The route keeps going up the headwall for about 10m on superb stone. Take some long slings. A 60m rope is more than sufficient as it’s a traverse.

Open Project! The direct start to Hot Sex. Start 5m R up 3 FH’s, jump start into a slab dyno. Red tag on first FH.

15m R in central section of wall. Monster traverse - traverses about 15m R through a 45 degree overhung wall. A tribute to a very talented 12yo Italian climber on the day of his passing. 12 FH’s. Permadraws. Very chossy until the 2nd draw.

5m L of X-Men up obscene steepness. Just awesome.

Not many routes of this grade are this steep. Starts up on a high, sandy platform. Juggy short wall to very unlikely roof flake ending at anchors in the middle of an otherwise blank wall. Belayer must wear a helmet as the flake likes giving free samples. Extension is Lee's gift to Adam Ondra and is open.

There has been concerns raised about the stability of the large flake by a number of climbers who have recently been on this route. It is very difficult to assess the stability of a feature like this, and the probability of serious rockfall. But the potential outcomes can be managed by being mindful of where the belayer and onlookers are located.

5m R. Starts on high ledge near remains of a tree 5m off the deck. Access this by scrambling up from far R, then carefully walking back L. Clip first UB on Miss Sixty with long sling for safety while getting established on the line. Four clips (UB’s and FH’s) and very bouldery tension climbing. Anchors on smooth orange shield.

1m R. Scramble up to start ledge from R, then carefully wander over to far L of ledge (chalky choss) to U-bolt above a chossy white V-groove. Route blasts up from here passing 5 FH’s to anchor. Steep, bouldery and thin with a spicy top section. A bit of care with the beautiful start flake, please.

Prepare to be dominated. Climb Miss Sixty to last bolt, then grapple the overlap diagonally R passing another 5 FH’s to shared anchor of next route. Absolute beast of a pitch. Super good.

The line 10m R which blasts straight up the guts of the steepness. U-bolt, then 6 FH’s up the 45 degree overhung wall to an incredible finish with one of the best holds I’ve ever seen on the finishing ledge. Classic.

2m R. More steepness with some very big moves and a challenging and spectacular finale past the break. Was impressively onsighted in its original form but has since shed a major hold down low and is a bit harder. It has now shed a lot more holds and it will need some work before it is solid again

2m R. Jug hauling on severely overhanging territory - should be popular. 5 bolts to low anchor just after the big break. Take care with the third clip.

5m R. Scramble up to high first bolt on far right of the choss ledge. A few bolts lead up and R (slab) until it kicks back. A long move to a flake begins the steep climbing. A pronounced crux lunge (stopper bloc?) leaves you with the last victory move to finishing jug.

2m R. Just R of the overhung barrel. This route wanders up the slab, trending R before picking through a steeper section searching for good holds. About 9 FH’s to anchors. Very chossy.

Starts on the ledge. Walk 10m R of previous route (around rocks) and scramble up a chute onto the ledge. Start up short black corner then climbs blocky orange and grey rock.

Starts on the ground 2m R from Bollox. 8 FH’s. Crux move in the middle.

Stay off until properly cleaned - mid section still extremely chossy. Crux high up on good rock.

Weirdness. Waaay right and up the hill at nearly the highest point was the first route bolted on this wall by persons unknown. One FH and then glue-in’s. I wonder if we’ll ever find out who did this and then walked away? Climbable with some loose rock still.

A memorial for the man himself. Trending up and right through the overlaps. Five permadraws, then take your own.

Scuttle up ramp or mantle ledge past bolt to start. Straight up on good rock and some tricky to read moves. Cuts left then back right to finish at same anchors.

A few metres R of Lorch. Straight up.

Two-headed monster with one head of lion, and other of a goat, lion claws in front and goat legs behind, and a long snake tail. Easiest route on the wall so far. White slab start, then up a near-vertical orange wall to major R-facing corner. Climb the wall right of the corner, place one metre sling, then stem out left and through the roof above to ledge. An easy romp for 10m, then she’s steep, all the way to the anchors.

Typhon was the largest and most fearsome of all creatures. His human upper half reached as high as the stars, and his hands reached east and west. Instead of a human head, a hundred dragon heads erupted from his neck and shoulders. 5m R. Up easy start just left of the platform, then orange wall, and steepness above. The finale through a steep little bulge is a heartbreaker.

A creature with the body, tail, and back legs of a lion; the head and wings of an eagle; and an eagle's talons as its front feet. 5m R. Up past bolt onto large platform at 5m. Up a balancy slab for 15m to ledge below the steepness. Now comes a series of punchy steep sections interspersed with good rests. The finale, traversing above the sucking void is particularly exciting.

Behemoth is a beast mentioned in Job 40:15–24. The name has come to be used for any extremely large or powerful entity. 4m R. Stickclip first high bolt, but start waaay to the left up a vague ramp. Easy climbing up a corner, then smooth face to a sit down rest ledge (cave). Exit left out of this, and then - hold on to your hat! Super crazy amazing. Difficult to grade this endurance pitch.

Liwyāṯān is a sea monster referenced in the Old Testament. The word has become synonymous with any large sea monster or creature. Climb as for Bohemoth to cave. Exit out the right edge of the cave, then 8 bolts of gradually steepening climbing to pull onto a rest ledge below final headwall arete. A seriously fierce boulder section on pockets past two bolts guards the anchors. The hardest moves on the wall.

The two-legged dragon with barbed tail, often seen as a symbol of strength and endurance. 10m R. Starts roughly in the middle of the wall, under the steepest looking section up high. Stickclip the first bolt for the tricky start, then it backs off for quite some time. At the point it becomes overhanging and you’ll jug haul through to a welcome camp in a cave where you can take your shoes off and ponder the view (24 to here?). From here, it’s all business pulling through the lip and into the superb stone of the 45 degree, powerful overhanging finale where you’ll either have some arms left, or not. 19 FH’s (long draws) to lower-off. Lowering off the top requires 80m rope. When it comes to cleaning, do it in two halves (chain+biner in cave).

Tricky little start into R-facing corner feature. Exit stage left onto short choss wall before mantling into large circular cave with lower-off. Not great by itself - the best is up above.

Keep going! Directly up from cave to pull through a bulge onto a ledge. Clip long perma-sling, then up into the base of the stunning corner with perfect rock. Stem to glory. 16 FH’s to anchors.

2m R. Stem off the boulder L past the bolt. Up the smooth tricky slab and then oodles of climbing which eventually runs into the multifaceted overhung corners just left of the big fig tree stump 30m up (steep!). The very top, up a runnel feature is super cool. The route features a number of tricky sections interspersed with good rests. May be on the easy side for 26 but I doubt there’ll be too many complaints.

The giant tree. Tricky slab start, then onwards past lots of climbing and rests to get established in a rest below the punchy final overhang. Hard to read moves. Solid.

For those who stop halfway. Cthulhu will eat your children.

A large cephalopod-like creature with a tentacled mouth, large wings, clawed hands and scaly skin. Starting at the tree seat. Climbs the orange rock through a bulge. Standard Crossroads wall climbing through bulges takes you beyond the half height anchor to a sit-down rest. Out of here the line snakes right and left - long slings will reduce drag. The final section pits you against an arete you must cross left to right. A very interesting assortment of moves and several very good rests to keep things sane. Take 23 quickdraws.