Einträge in MacIntyre Falls

This is inside Kwiambal National Park, more details here:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/kwiambal-national-park

This area is quite simply just across the river above the top of the main falls at McIntyre Falls themselves. There is bouldering around the river and up the hill in the bush. The climbing here is some of the best in the gorge.

50m above the main waterfall, in the gorge itself.

A great looking easy crack

Rap in off top FH or scramble down. There is a FH for belay at the base. Four FH’s on polished moon rock.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_dsnrSFUpg&t=499s

https://youtu.be/M_dsnrSFUpg?t=598

On the far side of the gorge above the falls is an impressive featured boulder. 15m behind 'Pray for Rain'.

The highball mega problem, trend up left on pockets

Start far left on jug, the obvious traverse right through slopers back to juggy.

From the big jugs head directly up, through the underclings and bulge

Up from jugs, then trend right around the rooflet and up the slab

The ultimate 1 move ape factor problem. Start matched on big slot, massively long move out to the lip. Over water. With no real feet holds.

https://youtu.be/M_dsnrSFUpg?t=105

https://youtu.be/M_dsnrSFUpg?t=774

https://youtu.be/M_dsnrSFUpg?t=837

Routes either side of MacIntyre Falls. If the river is up a packraft is handy for getting across either well above, or below the falls.

The routes on river left of the final drop of the falls and immediately down stream

Start on a small pedestal on the left near the falls then up seam to traverse 2m right on polished slab then up on edges. Could be a bold DWS if conditions were right.

Best to abseil in from large flat ledge to small pedestal. Offwidth from #4 to #6 and some narrow hand sized cams for the middle.

Abseil to sloping ledge right of the line under roof to belay from micro cams, small wires. Step left into V groove and up

Cliffs just river right = climbers left of the falls.

Topo:

http://upskillclimbing.blogspot.com.au/2008/01/climbing-report-macintyre-falls.html

The left hand route, facing downstream on large boulder below falls. Lowest bolt has been flattened a little. Start up V groove and sharp flake to slab, and on to top, traverse right to shared anchor

If the slab is proving too slippery, do the start to second bolt, and then finish up arete. The start may prove harder if reach is an issue

Cracked flakes to right of arete to first bolt, following arete to anchor

Located to the left of crack it up and wide wall, it’s a good flake climb and gets harder on getting to the top. 2 bolts at top with quick links to descend.

Hand crack 2m to left of Wilde Wall. Move right to single bolt to belay, back up possible with trad gear.

Centre route on downstream facing wall to single bolt anchor over top. A few tricky mantles. Accessible from top.

1m right of Wilde wall. Looks equipped with single bolt for top rope directional. Fiddly gear available below this.

Route up seam on tier above Wilde wall. Some razor sharp crimps. DBB on slab above.

Starts 2m R of Wilde Seam on upper tier at thin finger crack. Head left to DBB on slab

Offwidth and tight V chimney 1 m right of Iguazu past golden fin of rock. Head to DBB to left up slab

Starts down right of NF up twin cracks past small tree, continue across slab left to anchor

Starts above pool, to left of falls, 5 m right and down from Niagara on the right hand side of a pyramid of rock. Up slabby seam under roof, stepping right into right facing corner with hand crack, then up slab to top of block. Belay possible with large ( #5/6 cams) on other side of summit block.

This is inside Kwiambal National Park, more details here:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/kwiambal-national-park

This is the main jumble of boulders below the falls extending down to the next kink in the gorge which is known as the beach.

at McIntyre Falls, just below The Beach on the opposite side of the river. Masses of stuff in this labyrinth of boulders.

http://www.jottie.com.au/bouldering/McIntyre261204/IMG_3207.html

Easy slab

Sit start, up then through bulging nose

This is immediately in front of you about 10m after the last cement steps.

A great crimpy problem up the left side

About 15m right of the 'Steps boulder' in the middle of the jumble is a balanced block with a large shrub behind it.

Sit start through ledge to nose

Start on the arete and directly up

A much harder line starting lower down

Squat start and work up the slopey rail

This quality bloc with lots of hard problems is directly across the boulder field from the cement stairs and right next to the large swimming hole. It will yield a lot of hard variants and eliminates.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Bouldering/Beach_Bouldering_60513.html

Start on good holds then up onto the left face

Diagonally up though and mantle

Nails looking rail and top out

Jump start then campus right and top out

Up the right side of the arete

Name says it all!

On the far side of the rock jumble as the base of the far wall is a nose feature protruding over the creek. It has 3 distinctive radiating lines forming a large arrow pointing left. It may not be climbable at normal water levels.

Sit start and then head left along the shaft of the arrow and delicately mantle.

Sit start up interesting sidepulls

This is inside Kwiambal National Park, more details here:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/kwiambal-national-park

Up rail. Needs more cleaning

Through round undercling up to stepped jugs

A cluster of large featured boulders mostly with good falls onto sand situated at the corner of the gorge.

A series of rails inside the gable roof

A fantastic mantle problem reminiscent of fontainbleau

A big throw of good side pull

Various mantles

Fun little top out from the slab

SDS in the obvious crack with a fig growing through it

Stand start up the sloper rail

SDS on great rail then up right

The fig crack extends right through the bolder to the other side

Up the thin finger crack over the water

A fun highball slab

The 20-40m high walls river left of the Rockpool

Best to abseil in to large sloping ledge just downstream of large fig. Starts off ledge through small fig at base of v groove with hand crack at back. Continues as finger crack.

The inset corner inside the deep trench half way along Rockpool. A canyoning experience. Abseil down trench to water level and climb out with horizontal chimney moves to finish. Tree belay.

A Watercraft maybe needed to cross the river in higher water. Some routes are abseil in ( or belay from raft)

The golden downstream facing steep corner capped by a large roof. Originally done with one aid at roof and later freed.

Start 20m right of HTS. Hard moves to get established in the obvious dihedral, lead directly into Gun Boat Diplomacy

Reportedly one of the best one pitch routes in New England at the time. Right of the obvious low dihedral, 20m R of HTS. Start on the R side of the arete, moving up and left into the prominent finger and hand crack system, leading to an exciting finish. The two carrot bolts were added after the first ascent. Tree belay.

After the first carrot on GD continue up the arete on FHs and a finger and hand sized cam. Tree belay

Middle of face left of ETL, through roof to narrow finger crack. Join Gunboat Arete at its last bolt to top out. Finger sized gear and a #1 cam.

The corner right of Gunboat Arete. Possible to step right onto ledge and DBB, 3m below the top.

Left of the HR start is a thin seam to 2/3 height then 3 FHs to the DBB over ETL. Lots of RPs and microcams

The corner left of Shapeshifter

Start up Shapeshifter and take the thin left-leaning crack to finish

Steep cracked face, finishing directly up the RH crack

Face climb facing downstream, R of Shapeshifter, faded tag on first bolt.

This is inside Kwiambal National Park, more details here:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/kwiambal-national-park

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Misc/Peta_daunted_by_the_highball_arete_47725.html

Doo doo doo doo doo doo it

This is inside Kwiambal National Park, more details here:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/kwiambal-national-park

Easy moves through polished fractured rock

Classic highball arete

One hold then technical smearing to link into the arete

Left along the fin to the chip then mantle and to top

Keep working up the increasingly angle fin to top